Squeaky Drum Brakes & A Terrible Mechanic.

[Spool]

Okay... I got a refund for everything he touched on the rear axel totaling $775 including the bearings he replaced.
In search of a new mechanic, I found two that I liked as they specialized in classic cars.
However, their popular reputation has their schedules booked out at least two weeks for me to bring the truck in.

At this point, I'm thinking the 'universe' is screaming at me to do it myself.
My worry is the awful mechanic has more knowledge than me to begin with...
So, am I truly able to fix what he couldn't? Let's see... I could use a helping hand with this from you guys.

So, I found a decent video by that popular Chris Fix guy on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/Q5j3sKgNoEs

While watching the video and becoming more familiar with the drum brake, I was looking for two things.
1. Tools needed.
2. A hypothesis of what is going wrong in the first place...

In that regards:
1. I will need a lift and two jack stands. Which ones do you guys recommend I can buy without breaking the bank?
Also, when he lifts the truck, he lifts from the pumpkin and places the jack stands on the axel. Is this correct?

2. I'm thinking the mechanic either bought cheap parts or he assembled them incorrectly- which I'll need help identifying with you guys.
A more specific hypothesis is that he has adjusted the self-adjuster incorrectly. But, I can't figure out a reason as to why my brakes squeak intermittently.
They seem to squeak if I press the break too hard and when stopping on an incline. They also seem to misbehave more after 5 miles or so, so heat seems to be a factor as well.
The truck also intermittently speed-wobbles, almost like a skateboard when it gains too much speed. Yet it's all intermittent, so I'm having trouble finding a root cause.

With all that said, I think tools are first. So, can I trouble any of you for recommendations on a lift and jack stands?

[Mike81K10]

I believe you can do it. The so called mechanic that worked on your truck had two problems: 1) he did not know what he was doing and 2) It was not his truck and therefore probably did not care much about it. He was out for some quick money.

If you buy the tools you need and get a maintenance manual you will learn and start saving money as you work on your own truck. You will also get a great deal of satisfaction and will be able to save money in years to come by fixing other problems.

You also have this forum to ask questions and there are many on this forum with a great deal of experience and there is the technical section of this forum with a great deal of info. If you buy jack stands, make sure they are good to be safe. Safety is also the first concern and take your time as you learn and do not take short cuts on anything. You will find yourself getting better as time goes on. Get a family member involved and make it fun.

[Spool]

Thanks Mike.
And I couldn’t agree more with the personal satisfaction of learning and doing for ones self.

So, I see jacks online- my truck weighs 4,400 in total.

If I’m lifting just one end at a time, I can easily use two ton jack stands, correct?
(I know this is basic math, but I’d rather ask stupid questions than make stupid mistakes.- I’ve never jacked anything except a Honda to change a tire.)

How much is a fair price for two Jack stands? $100 for a pair or do I need to invest more for quality to ensure safety?

And then the same question for lift.
Should I invest in a lift as seen in the video, or smaller one that I can hide behind my bench in case I ever get a flat? (Not that I have a spare at the moment- but just thinking aloud for now.)


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[Jon87V20]

Spool, I just wanted to say I feel your pain on this and had a similar experience after letting someone else work on my truck. I normally try and do everything myself, but had taken it in to have both differentials rebuilt and re-geared with higher ratios. Here's the thread I started a while back http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=37836.0

When the shop doing the gears had it all apart, the guy called me and said the rear shoes were in bad shape and needed replacing and he would do it without charging for labor. I figured I would have them do it since they were already in there and I wouldn't have to do it later. He said they replaced the shoes and resurfaced the drums.

When I got the truck back, I was initially really happy with it since the brake pedal travel was way less than it was before and my parking brake would bite right away.

Unfortunately, not long after I noticed while in slow moving traffic on the highway the rear right side seemed to be sticking and was making a squeaking sound and grabbing on that side once every revolution of the wheel. It was also getting very hot. I tried using the adjusters, but that didn't help. I called the guy and said what's the deal with the brakes sticking. He said he couldn't advise me about brakes over the phone, but he could have it towed up there, or I could drive to some other shop closer to me that he trusted (his shop is fairly far away from my house).

I decided against having it towed back up there as I was frustrated they didn't do it right the first time. After driving it to work a few more times, it seemed to clear up but started having issues again. I noticed the right side shoes have a stripe on them like they are rubbing there and getting really hot and there is a significant amount of dust in that drum compared to the other side.

After taking everything out on the driver side yesterday, I found the machined pads in the backplate the shoes slide upon (lands) are badly worn. They feel uneven and one even has kind of a ridge ground into it. This is on the side that wasn't even sticking so I'm expecting the other side to be even worse today. If the lands are beat up too much, it can cause the shoes to get stuck and not be able to retract when you let off the pedal from what I understand.

The advice I got in that thread was to try brazing to fill iln the uneven surfaces, then sand them back to be flat again. It's either that or I'll nave to pull the axles and replace the backing plates.

It's very frustrating they either didn't notice, didn't care, and didn't tell me about the worn lands when they were doing this work. It's another reminder to me of why I never pay anyone to do anything with my vehicles.

So anyway, take a look at the lands on your backplates and see if they are smooth, or worn. May be contributing to the brakes getting stuck.

[Spool]

Oh, man... This is both comforting and painful to read, Jon.
Nice to know I'm not the only and also, I feel your pain.
You've basically described my issue to a T... the intermittent issues, the heat, the smell... It's a mess.

I will also say, I'm a bit intimidated. As much as I look forward to this job, I really need to keep it under the $775 I've been refunded.
Your description of replacing Axels or brazing the landing is also intimidating at the moment.

However, I did start this thread by saying I'll do my best to keep my emotion out of it...
Yet, while watching only less than an hour of drum brake material I've learned there is no 'housing unit' to be 'pressed into the drum.'
Thus, my mechanic was just talking to talk... I'm pretty upset. If this project ends up costing me more than $775, I may walk back over there
and try my hand and getting the full refund with a remainder of $900 for the other 'work' he did while mentioned the better business bureau.
I'm not the type of guy to cause a fuss, but I feel completely had and spending $1,600 doesn't come easy for me.

1st, what is the landing? Are we talking about the backing plate shown here in the picture attached?
(And if so, how much we talking to be replaced if needed?)

[Spool]

Headed over to PepBoys today and found their lifts and jacks were more affordable than one's found on Amazon.

Anyone ever use the brand, Torin Big Red?
The reviews seem to lean towards the awful side on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Hydraulic-Trolley-Floor-Jack/product-reviews/B0028JW4PU

Maybe I could just use their Jack Stands and buy a better lift elsewhere.

Question: Better to have a scissor lift that I can keep in the truck for the future, or better to have a hydraulic lift to keep at home?

[Mike81K10]

I have a Torin (big red) cherry picker (engine puller - lift). Don't know about the jack stands but should be OK, would recommend 3 ton or better if you can get them. a pair of jack stands should be under $100.00 and make sure they securely lock in place once set. A hydraulic jack that has enough lift would be best at home so you can lift the whole rear end at once and should be $100 to less than $200. Perhaps you can borrow from a family member or friend to get started and you can slowly get what you need as time goes on and as you can afford.

[bd]

I'll share a few of my thoughts.  First and foremost, never use any jack or stand to raise or support a load whether live or static on an inclined surface.  Even on level surfaces, the use of wheel chocks is prudent.

Next, don't skip on a hydraulic jack or stands!  The risks of serious vehicle damage and maiming injuries or death are too great.  That doesn't mean that you have to spend a grip, but bear in mind that you get what you pay for.  "Good Deal" jacks are inexpensive for a reason. 

Regarding jack stands: procure matched 3-ton, square base, steel stands at a bare minimum - up to 6 tons.  Always purchase stands in pairs - a minimum of two, but four can prove very handy.  Compare extended and collapsed height specifications to ensure that the new stands are suitable to support your vehicle at a convenient work height.

I would not use a scissor jack for more than changing a tire or as a supplemental support for an otherwise stabilized load.  Pairing with chocks is an absolute must!

Regarding hydraulic floor jacks: hands down, a floor jack is one of the most useful tools you can own.  A wider wheel track spacing and longer wheelbase provide a more stable support stance that is less likely to tip while lifting or maneuvering a lifted vehicle.  Heavy, steel frame jacks may be less susceptible to frame distortion with unbalanced loads or if a load shifts.  Cast steel or forged wheels/casters are more durable than other materials.  Quick-lift options can be very useful.  Select a jack with an absolute minimum cradle diameter of 3", 5" is notably better and more versatile.  Compare maximum (raised) and minimum (lowered) cradle heights.  Look for jacks that have the greatest range of lift.  Minimum height specification and extended wheelbases are most relevant with respect to ground-hugging vehicles.  Nowadays, I wouldn't waste money on any hydraulic jack rated at less than 2 tons; 3 tons is becoming the new standard, 6+ tons is good for lifting unloaded, medium-duty trucks.

Now, for the downside.  In today's marketplace, unless you spend a lot of jing, jacks are generally disposable.  Most are constructed offshore and procuring service parts, even simple seals, can be a frustrating challenge.  If a jack begins to leak, replacements are so inexpensive and readily available that it is generally better, and less costly, to discard it and procure another.

[Mr Diesel]

I have found Wal Mart to be a decent source of affordable tools like jack stands and hydraulic jacks. My 3 ton floor jack and jack stands came from Harbor Freight and have worked great for years. Harbor Freight has a lot of junk, but I have been happy with all their heavy steel items.

Get a manual for the truck. Chilton or Haynes from local auto parts store will do fine for you. About $20 I think.

[VileZambonie]

Harbor Freight has had nothing but problems with jack stands, so don't get them there. Their Snap-on copycat  3 ton Daytona floor jack is probably the best bang for your buck jack you can buy though.

[Spool]

Thanks Guys.

BD, I have some cinder blocks handy that can be used for wheel chocks. I went back to Pepboys today and settled for the 6ton jacks for $66. Even though I could have just as easily went with the 3ton jacks on sale for $25, I really appreciated the larger base on the 6ton jacks.

As for where to work, I understand I need a flat surface, but can I do this on a lawn or is concrete necessary?
I have a concrete area in the yard that could be cleared, but I've become very comfortable in my current area for all work which is on that lawn.


Diesel, good tip. Thankfully I already have a service manual on hand w/ bookmarks here and there from past jobs. Time to add a new bookmark for this next job.


In conclusion, I was comfortable with Torin's jack stands, but not their lift. I stopped by AutoZone to see what they have but was only reminded why I shop there less and less.  It seems the lift will have to be an online purchase unless I'm forgetting another vendor in the LA area. Diesel, I know you mentioned Walmart, but I tend to stay clear of that place- I'll check out harbor freight though.

What brand lifts do you guys own/enjoy the most?
I noticed the nicer lifts with a base closer to 5'' as BD mentioned come in two makes- hydraulic and dual-piston with the latter being more expensive. Is one better than the other?

[Spool]

Anyone ever use BlackHawk before?
https://www.amazon.com/Blackhawk-B6350-Black-Fast-Service/dp/B0054WGRBA/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_crs_dp_rhf_k2p_2?pd_rd_w=yC75i&pf_rd_p=19e936ea-548d-48be-af7d-3c9ad58b2970&pf_rd_r=5YG6RAFCJK5PTENMXSXN&pd_rd_r=3d3427dc-1136-41bf-ba46-9667fc1b303a&pd_rd_wg=VMbZv&pd_rd_i=B0054WGRBA&psc=1

It's about $20 more than the Torin lifts I mentioned earlier.
Reviews on Amazon rarely find an average - either extreme 5 stars or extreme 1... Hard to take into account before a purchase.
(Maybe Torin jacks aren't as terrible as the internet proclaimed they are?)

I'll be looking to get something before the weekend in hopes of being able to get her up and begin assessing what's going on mid week, so I can possible take a shot at this next weekend.

[bd]

Daytona hydraulic floor jacks ... in a selection of configurations and RAINBOW of colors, yet!!!   

I agree with Vile.  Harbor Freight will likely be my destination when I need a spare.

[Spool]

Love it. You guys just saved me $50.


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[Spool]

Okay. I have another newbie question, (everyone's allowed one joke at my expense.)

Regarding the picture of my wheel below, do we know what the bolts in the center are for?

It's been a while since I've removed a tired, but I'll loosen the lug nuts before lifting, and then proceed to remove the tire.
But will I need to remove the 8 bolts in the center or should they come right off as a whole once the lug nuts are off?