73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: ehjorten on January 12, 2011, 12:08:50 PM
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Figured I would start one of these here to keep all of my project/improvements together in one place!
To start...I had been looking for a 1991 Chevy Crew Cab for a little over 2 years. I was looking at any Chevy Crew Cab, but really wanted the 1991 due to the fact that it was the only year they came from the factory with the automatic overdrive. I also wanted a SRW one, but contemplated and test drove a couple of DRWs.
So...around comes the first of December and I spot a 1991 for sale on Craigslist that is only 3-1/2 hours drive from home! I tell the wife and the next day I take my son and go to look at it!! Liked it, made the deal and the next weekend I went back down to pick it up.
Spent the weekend at my parents' driving around town and then drove over to Redmond, OR in the truck for work and to see my brother. Turned around the next day and drove it home to Western Washington. Not one drop of fluid was lost at any point! Needless to say I was pleased!!
So...I came home with a 1991 V3500 with the TBI Gen V 454, NP205 and 8" of lift on 35s.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-XHIN5pkM7Fc/TQ2iXsMRwDI/AAAAAAAABL8/YUWFaBe0mLw/s800/1216101053.jpg)
Merry Christmas to me!!! ;D
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First thing I did to the truck was take it to Les Schwab and get the tires rotated and balanced and then I pulled the driveshafts out cause it had a pretty good vibration and I could tell the center bearing was shot.
Took front shaft and rear 2-piece shafts to a local, reputable driveline shop along with new center bearing and all new HD greaseable U-Joints. Had them check balance and rebuild the front CV joint.
Got a call from the Driveline shop and the front piece of the rear shaft was bent 0.150" so they re-tubed it. Front driveshaft stub had too much play in it so they replaced the spline and stub.
Got them home and the front driveshaft was too long and the front piece of the rear was too long by about 3"! ???
Took them back along with all of the measurements and they fixed them free of charge (I was thinking they had better)! The front one they just made the mistake of assuming the replacement parts were the same length as the original parts. The rear one they couldn't figure out what had happen. Along with that I thought I had better have them check the length of the rear section because it is lifted 8" and I don't know that the previous owner even checked it. It looked like it wasn't engaged enough. Sure enough the shaft was only engaged on the slip yoke about 1-1/2 inches!!! :o Had them lengthen it.
Got everything home with fresh paint and dynamically balanced and installed them and greased everything up. Took it for a test-drive and all of the vibration was gone!!! ;D
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Now I had the problem of getting the title transferred. Had to have an emissions test where I live to get the title transferred and I am not versed in such things. I have only had to get 1 emissions test ever and that was for the wife's 2003 Chevy. Went to the emissions station and failed the first test! :(
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-QJnEXYhv6BY/TSxyXtqhY5I/AAAAAAAABL8/5X-KvgOhfJU/s576/91_emissions_test_01.jpg)
I had been getting a periodic code 44 from the ECM so I started looking for things that would cause a lean exhaust. I hadn't looked over the engine at this point too closely, but when I did I found an open port on the TBI that was suppose to go over to the charcoal cannister. I replaced that line, replaced the O2 sensor and found the #8 spark plug was fuel fouled. Fixed those things along with a few other small items and went for a re-test.
Passed with flying colors! ;D
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VBCM_O_Bs3E/TSxyXo3YEWI/AAAAAAAABL8/W47ukV9fDS8/s576/91%252520emissions_test_02.jpg)
Over to the D.O.L. and $437 dollars later!!!!!!!! :o I was fully registered (crap that WA state use tax kills ya...even when the previous owner leaves the sale price open for you to fill in and you low-ball it! ;D)
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Nice truck ! I'm jealous.
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I'd be tempted to get a minivan if they looked like that ;D
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When I got the truck I noticed that the speedometer was reading low. Quick check with the mile markers and it looked like it was reading under by 14%. Later confirmed when I got it home and used the GPS to verify. No wonder with the bigger tires.
I had never dealt with a fix like this on an electronic speedo. Some quick research on the internet yielded information about the DRAC (digital ration adapter controller). So...looking under the dash I found it just right of center of the steering column, clipped into a small metal bracket.
Here it is removed from the bracket
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7dd9aOQuTfY/TS3pLVib2CI/AAAAAAAABL8/MlUrWl6-_OI/s800/91_drac.jpg)
Being a mechanical engineer and working for a company that employs electrical engineers, I ordered online a 7-position, 14-pin DIP switch and gave it to a guy last night to de-solder the jumpers and solder in the DIP switch. I have a soldering station at home, but don't have the small little tips that you need for this kind of work.
He brought it back in today all fixed up!
Modified DRAC with DIP switch
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-hjXx-WRgU7E/TS3pLYlDQpI/AAAAAAAABL8/eKMw_1ME77U/s800/91_drac_mod.jpg)
Now to get it installed and determine the right ratio to set it up and correct the signal.
I used the document located here: http://www.tbichips.com/drac/ (http://www.tbichips.com/drac/)
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Nice buy! Very clean truck! Good luck with it!
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That'll definitely get the kids to soccer practice. ;D Great rig!
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Some quick research on the internet yielded information about the DRAC (digital ration adapter controller).
You mean like this place?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=18371.0
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Congrats on finding your dream truck. If it's from the Bend/Redmond area it's probably rust free. Are you in Vancouver? I'm in Battle Ground.
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Some quick research on the internet yielded information about the DRAC (digital ration adapter controller).
You mean like this place?
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=18371.0
Great place Vile!!! ;D but no...I never saw that one. Got to TBIchips before I got my account fixed here.
Update on the mod to the DRAC...I installed it tonight and took my son for a ride. Brought along the GPS and first try I was dead on! ;D Speedometer is right on the money now!
Got any information on the ABS module off of the master cylinder? Probably some on this site, but I haven't searched yet. Not totally sure if this truck had it, but if it did it is gone now. Gotta go off and get the kids to bed.
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Very nice truck!!!
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Worked a little on the truck this weekend. Went through the whole courtesy light circuit to try and get a dome light to work. No lights in the interior cause they wouldn't go out! Checked the plungers on the doors and they were all good. Thought maybe the previous owner had tapped into the ground circuit with the aftermarket stereo install (not a very clean install from an electrical standpoint). Everything was good! Looks like a bad headlamp switch! Gonna order a new one.
Also installed new cap, rotor and plug wires.
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Okay...so I installed a new headlamp switch and that cured my problems with the dimmer. The rheostat spring was busted and gone, but it did not fix the issue with the dome and underdash lights staying constantly on. Anyone have any suggestions on what to look for? I checked the door jamb switches and everything looked good. Wiring appears to be good from what I can see. I unplugged the electronic trailer brake controller and also unplugged the stereo thinking that maybe the previous owner tapped into the wrong wire, but that didn't help either! Oh and pulling the fuse to the courtesy circuit shuts off the lights. So...it has to have a ground somewhere.
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Figured out the courtesy lights today! Previous owner had installed a short whip antenna on the roof right above the dome light. The uninsulated ground terminal in the dome light was touching the metal around the antenna base. Wanna get rid of that anyway and put back the stock antenna in the windshield or something different like one on the front fender.
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My 89 Blazer & 91 Suburban had the fender mounted antenna.
I believe yours should have had the antenna on the right front fender originally as well.
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Looks to have had originally the windshield antenna. The stock dash has the relief for the button connection at the base of the windshield. The windshield in it now does not have it and the old antenna lead goes uptowards that area. Think I would like a stock fender mount though!
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All dashes have the relief for the Button.
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Is there a good source for the fender mounted antenna or is it salvage?
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I haven't ever found one aftermarket, BUT I much rather have the one in the glass. Does yours have a fender mount?
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Mine right now has this short, flexible, rubber whip antenna mounted to the center of the roof right now. Want to get rid of that, patch the hole up and go back to a stock configuration. My '77 has the wires in the windshield, but thought I might like the fender mount as I have heard that reception in a crew cab is highly directional with the antenna in the windshield. Thought I might like a clean windshield as the one that is in there now doesn't have the wires. I guess I am open to discussion about this.
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My Crew has the mast, my Burb has it in the windshield. Both pickup radio fine.
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I'd get a fender mount and then mount it on the inside of your hood attached to the inside of your fender laying down. My buddy did that on a newer silverado to shave the antennae off of it and to still be able to get signal.
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Love ur truck!!
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I'd be tempted to get a minivan if they looked like that ;D
X 2 ;D
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Sweet rig
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Here's an NOS antenna on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-81-C-K-TRUCK-CHEVY-GMC-CAMPER-FRONT-FENDER-ANTENNA-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255c4c32e8QQitemZ160462287592QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/73-81-C-K-TRUCK-CHEVY-GMC-CAMPER-FRONT-FENDER-ANTENNA-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255c4c32e8QQitemZ160462287592QQptZVintageQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
Love the truck man, it's a beast!
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Beautiful Truck!
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Got my quick-release mudflaps mounted a while back. Haven't done much more work to the truck as I have been spending all of my free time working on getting my shop finished.
The setup is from Shocker Motorsports. Not sure exactly how I feel about the clear flaps, but they were cheaper than the black ones. I can always make some black rubber ones later out of a sheet of masticated rubber.
I wanted something that was well designed, easily removeable, and did not screw into the body work (I have seen too many mudflaps screwed into the wheelwell flange that rip-out the screws, plus they all create small areas where debris can collect and it creates a nasty pultice corrosion spot).
About the only thing I wish is that the drop tubes were a little tighter to the bottom of the bed-sides. I might have to modify the tubes to get them to pull up closer to the bed.
Please excuse the crappy cellphone pictures!
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2TATlLxETCQ/ThMaOSrLlAI/AAAAAAAABL8/UpJeh_xd3L4/s1152/0609111937.jpg)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hk0Igu9fS-Q/ThMaOS0jK-I/AAAAAAAABL8/lwHg5s5x7Yw/s800/0609111936.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-UvjVZkJB7jY/ThMaOcJ0D6I/AAAAAAAABL8/jbFTqtieH_k/s800/0609111937a.jpg)
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love the truck. sooooo awesome. looks great man.
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can i have the same minivan i have my truck and all but that minivan you got is so much better looking and could be played with compared to my dually
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Oh man that is a bad truck, I wish I could find
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Haven't done much to the truck lately, but I did get my Odometer and Trip Odometer fixed. A while back the Odometer quite working and the trip odometer never would reset properly. I tore the Speedometer out of the Dash and after a bit of research and looking, I sent it out to a place in Richmond, VA to have it repaired and buffed-up. There is a more local place in Tacoma, WA, but this place in Virginia seemed to be real professional and knowledgable. Plus they paid for your shipping both ways! I looked into seeing if I could repair it myself, but when I found the Trip Odometer gear was stripped and nothing looked wrong with the Odometer itself, I figured it was probably the Stepper Motor that died. That involved a lot more disassembly and electronic board work than I wanted to take on.
I got the Speedometer back last weekend, but it was too late to install it before taking off on a camping trip, so I just put the GPS in the truck and drove it with a big hole in the dash! :D
Now it is installed, looks great and the best part is the Odometer and trip meter are working again! GPS says it is about 2-3% reading slow, so I popped the DRAC out at work and changed the dip-switches. The drive home should confirm that I'm dead on!
As a side...I did the DRAC modification a while back and checked it with the GPS. I seem to remember it being pretty accurate, but maybe that was just because I was so happy to be reading only a couple of percent off instead of about 15%. I do think I remember maybe reading about 2% slow before, so I don't think anything could be wrong with the repair; that is what I was initially thinking. It was interesting that the GPS showed that the speedometer got more accurate as speed increased. I'm thinking that has to do with the tires growing at speed, cause tire circumference is inversely proportional to the Input Ratio on the DRAC. A couple of percent is only about 0.75" diameter change on my tires.
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awesome man...some progress is better than none. ive said it many times but...love the truck !
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thats a heck of a truck man. i have an 84 2wd longbed and i hate the single cab long bed. i want a 4wd crewcab too but there hard to find.
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Very nice minivan.
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This last weekend I pulled the steering gear off of the truck because I was going to have it rebuilt and finally get my new Hydroboost unit, new master cylinder and new booster hoses installed. Guess what I found under the steering gear?....
Cracks!!!! Argh!!!!
I got the weld-in reinforcement and the bolt-in brace coming. I'm gonna grind out the cracks, weld them up and grind them smooth before I weld on the the reinforcement. Gotta get all of this done before opening day of Elk season! I'll post pics later of the repair and install when I get the parts.
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I looked at my last post on this thread and realized the last problems I had with the truck were last Elk season...guess what now...another Elk season and I had a little Snafu mid last week! (never did post pictures of my frame repairs, but they are holding up great and I never did use the poorly fitting weld-in repair, just the welded-up and ground-down frame and bolt-in braces).
So while I was out Elk hunting last week I had a little snafu! It was night-time and pouring down rain. All of a sudden the truck goes completely dead while driving! Pulled-off on the side of the road, got out and checked under the hood. HOLY-####!!!! The positive battery cable is glowing bright-red, sizzling & crackling!!!!! Run to the cab to get my mini-mag and dig-out my multi-tool. All the time I'm thinking...FIRE! Get back to the battery and disconnect the battery.
All safe now, but the insulation on the positive lead is melted and dripping and the accessory wire melted the solderless-crimp connector and is now in two pieces! What am I going to do now??? It is about 10 pm and I got to get home so that I can get up at 4 am for the next days hunt! How am I going to get home? How am I going to fix this in the middle of the night with no stores open & how am I going to get any sleep??? Cop happened to be going by on the road not 5 minutes after this happened and then another showed-up. They were really cool! Helped tow me off of the road after they went back and got the SUV with the tow strap (no way the cruiser's push bars were going to even be close to reaching up to my bumper!!!). Called my mom and she was en-route to come get me (45 minutes away though). The cops also advised me that I had better take care of this tonight, because even though my truck was off to the side, that come morning people were going to be calling in and complaining about it and that they would have to do something.
Realizing I had a roll of electrical tape in the glove-box, I thought...just maybe I could splice the accessory wire and wrap the positive lead. I thought that even if that worked, there was probably no way the battery would have anything left to turn over the engine. By the time Mom showed-up I was just finishing wrapping everything and making sure everything was in order. I connected the battery and hopped-in the truck...turned the key...and she lit right up!!!! :D
Now...the part about the tranny cooler lines...finally you are saying what the heck does this have to do with the battery cable?
A few strands of the battery cable welded themselves to one of the tranny cooler lines. Luckily it didn't burn a hole, but at that spot it is weeping a little. I looked for replacement lines, but neither Chevrolet nor NAPA has anything. I next looked at Inline Tube and they have something listed for 88-94 4WD Chevy Trucks with a 4L80E and listed for 1-tons (P/N CTT9241). Any idea if this works for my rig (1991 Chevy V3500 w/454 - so 1-ton with 4L80E trans)?
I know I could probably just repair it, but then it would be repaired and I am a bit anal about these things! :D
Oh...also...when I went to remove the positive lead on the starter to replace it...guess what...the freakin stud spun out of the back of the solenoid and the phenolic insulator on the back of it busted apart!!!! So now I also have a new starter! LOL
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After ordering a set of Transmission cooler lines from Inline tube for a '91 Chevy 1-ton, receiving them and finding out in-deed that they are for the 4th-gen trucks and not our 3rd-gen trucks; I sent the lines back to Inline along with my originals. They duplicated them in stainless steel and I received them really fast! Got them last week and installed them this past weekend!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1Q-I0ntBYSU/URuzhVVgrfI/AAAAAAAABfw/EnY8MxvyoAo/s800/20130209_123519.jpg)
No more leaking transmission fluid! And, they fit perfectly!! ;D
Got them in Stainless steel and Inline Tube is keeping my originals to fully reverse-engineer them so that they can have a drawing for them and add them to their catalog. So...if anyone else needs new cooler lines for a '91 R/V Inline Tube has them.
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Does your truck have cross over steering?
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Yes!
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I was re-reading your November 13, 2012 posting. I may have missed something, but what was it that caused the battery cable to melt in the first place?
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LOL. Was thinking same thing.... And did you get an elk?
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Just wanted to say, what a sharp looking truck you got.
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So the night I was driving home it was raining cats and dogs. The battery cable welded itself to one of the transmission cooler lines and burned a small hole into it. Originally I thought that the cooler line rubbed a hole in the insulation, but after my starter solenoid coming apart and re-thinking it...I think I had an internal short in the starter solenoid. It was probably brought on by all of the rain. The fact that the whole positive cable was glowing red and that nearly all of the insulation was melted off of the cable points in that direction.
As for Elk Hunting...well it was a strange year! I got backed-doored (minds out of the gutter guys! But I will admit that it kinda felt that way!!) by another guy on opening day in this walk-in area after I had parked at the gate at 3 AM!!! He most likely knew exactly what he was doing because it was a tricky way to come in over the top of me and to do it in the dark meant that he knew the area really well. It is a really long story, but the guy actually was party hunting and shot 2 that I know of and most likely a 3rd that I can't confirm for his buddies that were not anywhere near him on opening day. The rest of the season was really poor and both me and my other 3 hunting partners didn't get a single one! We usually all get one each year. But...that is why they call it hunting and not shooting! ;D
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Hadn't posted much of anything on the minivan in a while. This weekend I got busy on the front brakes!
New rotors, bearing races and bearings! Also put on the new calipers that I have been hanging onto for a while. She really needed new front brakes! A while ago I re-did the rears with all new drums and bearings too!
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-veTMWTLcHnA/VKqzVgccthI/AAAAAAAADCM/jOTOOlxmNuU/s912/20150103_151519-1.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-6cTjXtBuFBk/VKqzYkCs3XI/AAAAAAAADDc/nW6qnWNx3a4/s1152/20150104_142545.jpg)
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Oh...and this little receiver hitch mounting I printed-up at work a while back too to mount one of our KW Emblems! :)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-aJrKbHm6VFo/U0QAW3YTTtI/AAAAAAAAC4o/KcpcJ74kdLg/s800/20140207_144530.jpg)
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-JnmJz-G-Y4c/U0QAbQUQ4uI/AAAAAAAAC4c/XsFab2GKE4I/s1440/20140207_154829.jpg)
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I have been trying to find one of those KW emblems. fleabay, and the junkyards think they are gold bullion.
While we are on the subject.....
I talked to a guy just today about a K100 he had in the weeds. He is saving it for the engine. I could only see it from behind. Cab had been bumped, and the windshield was out of it for an extended period of time. Interior was to the point of junk. He said I wouldn't want it anyway because it was a setback front axle K100 and that they were the worst riding trucks on the road.
Oh, well. Someday I'll get to play B.J. and the Bear, just not today. :(
Hmmm..... I may have just missed my KW emblem. Well, atleast I know where it is.
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What's the scoop on the circa seventies tailgate?
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What is it supposed to be Paul? The little Chevrolet on the RH side? Doesn't that look better?! ;D
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LOL Bingo!!
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So I have a re-occurring issue with my truck. If I drive it around for a while...park it somewhere and go inside...come back out after 15 minutes or so and fire it up...it always fires right back up, but what seems randomly, it will die and when I go to start it back up it generally will fire right up, but it acts like it is cutting out or something. If I get on the throttle it will run rough and sound like it is cutting out periodically. If I put it in gear I have to get on the throttle right away, otherwise it will die. When I am driving away it will buck and surge usually until I drive it away for 50 yards or so. Then it clears up and runs just fine!
Armchair theories?...GO!!!
I am kind of leaning towards fuel pump, but I don't have a permanent gauge hooked up. I like the gauge idea on the backside of the TBI with the extended fitting, but I don't want to hack-up my coil mount. I am thinking I would need to have a new fuel line to the back of the TBI bent up and have some schrader valves in the lines at the back of the TBI for tapping in a diagnosic FI pressure gauge.
IAC? Ignition module? It doesn't happen usually at home...it is somewhat random when it happens and I am always away from home, so diagnosing it is a little more difficult. There are no codes thrown.
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Is it throwing codes? What does the injector spray look like? I would guess fuel pressure first.
Fuel pressure adapter...
http://marine-performance-parts.com/cfmtechfuelpsiguageadaptorforgmtbi2843505774.aspx
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I've seen that Capt'n, but...I have also seen that it doesn't fit without hacking up your coil mount? Is that true? Unless you modify your fuel line, the extra length pushes the fuel line into the coil mount?
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Armchair theories?...GO!!!
Fuel pump main relay.
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don't you have dual tanks?
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I do have dual tanks, but have stopped using the RH one because it developed a pin-hole leak at the seam. I can fill it about half-way. Haven't gotten around to replacing it yet.
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http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=29825.msg249543#msg249543
i had a problem with the switch. sometimes it would start up but then sputter and die and wouldnt start up right away, didnt notice if it was with only one tank or not but i replaced my switch and my problem is fixed
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On my old crew cab, I had the same issue....it sounds like the dual-tank issue I had, my valve wasn't opening 100% to whichever tank I was clicked to. I replaced everything with GM parts, and a few months later, the valve stuck again, this time in the middle of the tank-change. This is the reason I was looking to remove my second tank, and all the switching goodies out of my latest square.
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Actron has a slightly shorter one that swivels that should fit. I can't remember how long the CFM one was. I have used the actron one on my and just put it forward of the filter.
https://actron.com/content/gm-tbi-adapter-716 (https://actron.com/content/gm-tbi-adapter-716)
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Final Emissions Test for the old girl! PASS!! :)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yqxBvX38x8c/VPXRhuqBsDI/AAAAAAAADLQ/yf3Xw6WERnw/s821/Emission-Test-V3500-20150302.JPG)
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That must feel good. Only a couple of counties in Indiana require testing and I am in one of them. Luckily once every 2 years and no cost...
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I now do not own any vehicles that require emissions testing! My wife has the new-fangled car!
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Nice. They just recently did away with emissions testing in BC. I guess our trees were starved for carbon or something.
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They sort of did away with emissions testing in WA state, but you think they could make it more convoluted?
If you live in these counties, your vehicle may need testing every 2 years:
•Clark County
•King County
•Pierce County
•Snohomish County
•Spokane County
What vehicles are exempt?
These vehicle types don’t need emission testing:
•Hybrid vehicles: Honda Insight and Toyota Prius.
•2009 or newer model year vehicles.
•Vehicles more than 25 years old.
•Dealer sales - vehicles sold or offered for sale by a Washington dealer.
•Vehicles powered exclusively by electricity, propane, compressed natural gas, or liquid petroleum gas
•Motorcycles, see RCW 46.04.330 and motor-driven cycles, see RCW 46.04.332
•Farm vehicles, see RCW 46.04.181
•Street rod vehicles, see RCW 46.04.572 and custom vehicles, see RCW 46.04.161
•Diesel vehicles that are:
◦Older than 2007, and weigh 6,000 pounds or less.
or
◦2007 and newer, with no weight limit.
•Collectible vehicles. To claim the exemption:
1.Submit a Collectible Vehicle Certification for Emission Test Exemption form.
2.Your vehicle must meet these requirements:
◦Is of a unique or rare design, of limited production, and an object of curiosity.
◦Is maintained primarily for use in car club activities, exhibitions, parades, or other functions of public interest or for a private collection, and is used only infrequently for other purposes.
◦Has collectible vehicle or classic automobile insurance coverage that restricts the collectible vehicle mileage or use, or both.
3.You must have another vehicle for personal use.
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Do you work for KW?
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I do!
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This is off topic, but why did you stop making the cabovers?
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The length laws in North America are such that we can run conventional trucks and conventional trucks are much easier to work on than a cabover truck! That is the basic reason why they have faded from the US market. In Europe where the length laws are much more strict you see cabovers because that is what they have to do and small tight European towns are easier to navigate with shorter trucks.
For the medium-duty market we still produce both KW and PB cabover trucks, but we import the chassis from our DAF/Leyland Divisions.
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The length laws in North America are such that we can run conventional trucks and conventional trucks are much easier to work on than a cabover truck! That is the basic reason why they have faded from the US market. In Europe where the length laws are much more strict you see cabovers because that is what they have to do and small tight European towns are easier to navigate with shorter trucks.
For the medium-duty market we still produce both KW and PB cabover trucks, but we import the chassis from our DAF/Leyland Divisions.
There are basically no length laws now ,
Most states restrict the trailers to 53' but several states allow 57 foot long trailers
And to my knowledge there is no overall length limit
So the length of the tractor is not a legal concern , although it is a maneuvering concern
I m pretty sure most companies still make cabovers
They just sell them everywhere else in the world except here
I liked my COE
Had a international with the set back axle and air springs
Rode very nice and would turn around on a dime
Plus it was less than half price of a conventional
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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ok
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Was Elk hunting in the '91 Crew Cab over the last 10 days. Thursday night I had parked my truck and was riding with a buddy. After dark we came back down to get my truck. I then took off for my parents, but stopped at the rest stop before crossing over the Megler bridge. When I left I pulled away and heard a strange noise coming from the front-end. I got out and started looking around with my flashlight. It was of course blowing and pouring rain.
Anyways, I found the problem...one side of my tie rod fell apart!!!
Man that was lucky because I was going 55-60 around corners along WA-401. I don't want to imagine a wheel going sideways at speed! I tried calling Astoria NAPA to get the parts as they were open until 7 pm, but they had a power flash in the storm and the servers were down. I have AAA Plus, so I had a big flat-bed tow my truck to the 19 miles to my parents house. Ordered the parts from a local parts store on Friday and fixed it on Saturday morning! And yes I did get the LH and RH Tie Rod parts. I am not playing Russian Roulette with the LH Tie Rod which didn't fail.
The kicker was that I already had these parts painted and assembled laying in the garage at home! Guess I have a spare now!
After that I set the toe and bit the bullet on new tires for it. Since I was home in Oregon I got Tax-free tires at the local Tire Factory. My original tires were Toyo Open Country MTs and they were getting pretty bald! I got Hankook DynaPro MTs in the same size: 315/75R16.
Oh!...and I know there are gonna be a few guys that will ask...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-raUyxbqGmjM/VkzPzxrAasI/AAAAAAAADdY/xtqdOIfUD9o/s1152-Ic42/20151109_072335.jpg)
My 5-point
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DzEB62NBKx4/VkzQH8-GajI/AAAAAAAADdE/fFnL4iJwZvY/s800-Ic42/20151112_080650.jpg)
One of my buddy's 4-point...he got me by 70 lb. on hanging weight!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vrzQKkYVmBE/VkzPz6-eATI/AAAAAAAADdk/QtgHbY9_bnA/s1152-Ic42/20151116_092512.jpg)
What my freezer looks like now!
My other buddy has today left to get one. Otherwise we will have to dibby-up some of the meat!
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That's great that you weren't hurt or experienced a catastrophic failure at speed. Breakdowns in the snow add to the adventure of enjoying outdoor activities. I've had to fix pressurized oil leaks with whittled wood to get out of the backcountry. I'm sure there are a few stories that members could share.
Moral of the story: See what happens when you buy new parts and don't install them? It's like a hidden purpose being set into motion.... LOL
Nice winter stores!
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Your game looks good, nice 5 point. I like elk, it's pretty good, there are alot of game meets I like
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So bad news...my Gen V 454 in my 1991 Crewcab decided to start a rod-knocking! Ugh!!! It does have 261k miles on it, so it was probably just a matter of time.
Plans???...Ultimately I would like to put a 5.9 Cummins in it, or a Duramax, but fitting the Duramax between the frame rails is a bit of work. My brother put one in his '72 K20 and finally got it fired-up, but I really need this truck back on the road quickly. I looked at short-blocks and they are about $2,800. I looked at a GM Performance long-block and that is about $4,500. I called a local, reputable machine shop in my area and they told me about $2,500 to rebuild mine if I pull the engine and bring it in and it will be about a 4 week turn-around. I would rebuild it myself as I have the skill to do so, but I really don't think I will have the time to commit to it right now.
What I would like to do with it is upgrade the heads to some better flowing heads, bump-up the compression ratio and put in a better cam to wake this slug up! Problem is, I would have to then deal with the TBI to keep up with the engine and I am not sure what that all will entail other than an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a TBI rebuild.
The other idea I have been contemplating is going and finding a 1996+ GEN VI 454 (Vortec 7400 L29) engine that was mated in-front of a 4L80E (which the truck already has) and converting over the engine and transmission controller to that system. I am not sure how much work that will be, but I would think it shouldn't be that hard. My 1991 does have the DRAC that converts the VSS signal to usable ones for the Cruise Control, speedometer, etc. I know that the newer models don't have that and not sure how much surgery would be required on the dash harness. My fuel pumps and flex lines would need to be upgraded to higher pressure.
Thoughts from the crew? Suggestions?
Thanks,
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I think I would go with the new GM long block for $4500.
The original motor lasted 261k, that's something I wouldn't overlook when purchasing a replacement.
You mention not having the time to rebuild your motor yourself. I stock replacement would be the quickest fix to get you back on the road.
A 6BT Cummins would certainly be a nice upgrade (like Irish Alley did to his crew cab). It sounds like gathering the parts and doing the conversion would take some time.
A $4500 long block and a weekends worth of work can get you back on the road.
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I found some information about the fuel pumps...it looks like I can use a 1996 or 1997 fuel pump and mount that to my stock fuel pump/sender unit in the tanks! Does that sound correct?
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Yes, I think you have an EP 386 now, replace it with an AC Delco EP 381. I did that in Brooke's pickup. Check out tbichips.com. Brian has a lot of good info and can sell you a chip and advise you on a cam or tell you what's needed to run the newer injection system. We are using his heated 3 wire O2 sensor and eventually will get a chip from him.
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Update...I've pulled the transmission and transfer case. They have both been gone through. The transfer case was good, just needed new seals and gaskets. The 4L80e transmission had been giving me some sporadic issues with hunting; usually between OD and 3rd gear. Found a couple of clutches were burnt pretty bad, probably from the hunting, a pressure transducer had some metal clogging up the screen. The transmission did have the '96+ wire harness upgrade, but the wire harness was pretty brittle. A couple of sprags were pretty shot. This is exactly why I took it all out since I was gonna have to pull the engine anyways and rebuild!
Engine is coming out soon and I think I have convinced myself to just do a stock rebuild for now. I have been heavily into learning all of the things that need to be done for an 8.1 L upgrade and with all of the brackets that I have to find or buy, the trimming of the frame rail, wire harness and ECU and it is just too much work for me to take on at this point and a little expensive over the cost of the rebuild.
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Realized I hadn't updated anything on this in a while. I have the engine out and fully stripped. Didn't see too much damage to the rod and main bearings. #3, #6, #7 rod bearings had some light scoring. #3 rod journal had enough wear that you could feel it with a fingernail, but the other were just slight. #4 Main bearing had the heaviest scoring in it. Probably debris from the rod bearings. Other than that, there was hardly any ridge in the cylinders and all of the rings were free. Pretty dang good for 261,000 miles.
Here are a couple of pictures from removing the engine:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hKoX6ZdSRb8qr64pdilVPFP_vwfU7QaAs9G3IUM-F3BYO5IYs-y6OdNzRcVuHD84cxNqTxL-47LUzw=w1920-h1200-no)
Only had to partially deflate the front tires to get the sump to clear the radiator support.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VOcVHcHIvwG8K9A59t5Fxp_orDfd8Fqx9IO6AVKiShR3kFhBfCETv0-KBneE9b8hfd4ju09cAvGn2g=w1920-h1200-no)
Engine on the engine stand.
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Picked-up a low mileage 6.0L LS out of a 2004 Yukon Denali XL2500 today! Slightly different route now. Hope I will be satisfied. I don't think I'll be making 410 lb-ft of torque at 1,600 RPM anymore! I'd really like to put some L92 heads and an LS3 intake manifold on it, but the cost of those things along with a new camshaft really isn't in the cards right now.
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I took pictures of all of the bearings in the Gen V 454 for a friend. For reference; it started knocking lightly and in only a couple of weeks time it was ever present and very loud! Here is what I found...Quite a few with wear down to the babbit in places. Engine had a little over 261,000 miles on it. It probably would have kept on going had I not ran it a little low on oil and peg the throttle around a sharp corner. That is when I first heard the slight tick.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2abqfexQGrj7vsWzidhbXSI8PzWVGUjm-MHU-R0IW7SK_IKO3YHg1NLwP1C2eBkAwcPmILQqThzBDxU5LIetWOAEr_qk1thGZqVp7WcqVRh8Vnwc1kc3x8eiul_AA-4Arr3-uEnQg9Ets9_ion2FYuVzUQc-rpagBe8QTuAy_oi_tXvhqpNjFRcgEAFvAZkNU0W9IDQ-AGPSMXbnhxeGYo64LimS5prZV11LIXi3JFHKrVpzmjt-85GdH6UQYrnQoRY0yXsSlGjO7MwQwEIxqML-xkMLpSqYXyYDtdDMwbB1qCEnRlZdLhlj4BwuMev8HMXz_94wN5R9ZysBUOxwrM0DtqM2X79KCSPSJ_F4576-ZZq_jx6GTReKtlx2J7eW9hS35op4oiQIR0FwWRDCYVrJJXcxUM9q-HBQjiLZPiLa4ahrb4wZyu3qSWafAkkYunnMlQNaPR02ukXwGeYc8Hp5HCo_wkRP0ncJ0J-NMNEKcZabvVjKV5139yRuEg2fQ3DcgQlmyw71LkPnngkACdJEkRkbZPGvYV5kKbHeLQhKwbYRjUwxDntlHYjvIkexGK7T5C6NuuAAQpoHNuoMGxpVY_VbT8ZbjACdJbZmx3AZ04wZ=w616-h1094-no)
#1 Main
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6_khArYjzkQqY02EyNEdX9wDT7uUP5ibHuYvwrSYOA3GcDac8DwbLLuIzk-KlSwroVe45Ph2AinTnS61mKTxSHOOOcpxEH0RezLReF9MS96xHxQNKlPuMUlEEt-2sQE2lHccyMEht_0PqlEv4Dc9DO9fBO10T7iShBmUxB_MMMUSGoNQpil5JpxRz4g_RLzsfH_cMBF7c4djmD8ZF8YtQGohu7GB12uN4Gtp4vJ6_3TXRP6_qNMVqJXYHGB_aXD54AvP1XgeO-rphvihVevCbiukJGjhEc_quju8zEGc3xh5y4LL3DO4buUzBkwQJklVQtS8UbOS9bOpV93jWykREOYt5k7_d_OCvg_-r3UEBd4QtIV2Xx_qhBz7M4v3x5LAVTAAiNJvxzGMCu5zepns641jSJiUhbZSTwdVqolOUE1YzRH6dkm5mV5WneZhYXm7B5TDpQBFaI0ioPTGhL74INVPHGtyZ9CqXWSNXa2d6BVBD4c9FEjrv8E3I6JaxNFpak3eMYmbuVddddM0zseMfp3y_QWhX77rude11XphJJX9ju5zf5og-DLZ1uPBZMq8Byq5416eTUgmk5mdteh9Keh0pkFCQGcOfVBuzzHqP_xc_TcY=w616-h1094-no)
#2 Main
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PSo7_AO91gx6j865fL6SrCZzVaySBROhEtIbsYFxYXG8bjvP5Zhiih3ZemLma7wtkEPQFM3X-Q8995l63EpKsOpddZqxq3FdaKFIbgKncULgLNfeGM7im0SRLSYpGyINAdCUENMKWaaX_6Vd0h3ya1IPcyBbi1t64y6UaY_L0gFUpElvhb8vWPoVTp8vjyY8GUR1frZ-ySzrvP9JsgFdGLxQHzY367pusL00DmGzoshvab6fk39cM-yXMUWxckn8Mt_qw3P1JVRyszo1t4L1W-JGqMnIkWklewvGYctkzEfSsOe5bQaDbhRRUCx58q5M5ZTPdlB-5Pn0tXyM_Ta-gq6phKSj-5kn-W4r6vE9kzTU43e6mLkeUVEimk68_w4_12ZjkT2wAFbu3zDXxiGgfNIdkwOA9hj4bPjSHEAyVXaiNjBHoxUpjfjykdMKweQ7i5HnuVXeOQtE4P0sM5JNZy97E4PFFSBmJG7k1WOxMfkp9ZA6xU8BM0YQITRsL5gyphbhcSBYyZj7HQ1lks-cf7h91a8oia4dgfQDhiACt0ye-MAM9kDuG90LDPYOlpYah-C6D-IY2q-GBqJlONIwHjegFnHUdD4YGOAu316wR5MD39Ez=w616-h1094-no)
#3 Main
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QW9ZQyPngx2FvwB4uI5CKZDzTNfT-WzgngSPYtC1TduJraOcXz3qgJSOheXLtlBLM8LpWvKziP3s8UrygCZ0iTElhs3PYmnlhAJAf3Df7rI9qpVAMPcw1o2FnRw-CvveQclANoQ5MscH3k8vnwGD7Ym9B9yt_DR5Gvf86uRIoRbwIIeED-Nu2rwxvl9dpWT-kZjY_ssOXj0n6puUPN0TaLmKJUvPC8O1quNrTI_T97TVtZ3uKEVoQUkY0AEYjXleJ_gA5ZhM-3xd_MaYDeDIzudLZeJ4N9e0xfDMpHsg2lLjVVdOZZChGp3kxiQ4sKtCHybHm29Nk9_MWDnJvk_i2doSZBiedp7BqN40oJb3xAkseshb90qRPtjWkzjYflL47ozn6bFkClQp4308AAF4PlXluuXQTkZRHOZBpPrYmIamiYDSPN6FWOADBdULN3uhZ1khwPBow9FA87vdJtzksLQo_XqZfURZKwwIU5yNAtl0MRmF_DsflwA3_HeIDskcfeWNmpdN229cRvlvRL3cYQ_lyjUi-5dDVJL8DfW4ACCkW9NrsOrfjcF0bRUNQ097OBw1tJ8YSY2AQQiF98_LnL4J9Go2jEj4UTmo4ga6lSaPgBuO=w616-h1094-no)
#4 Main - Heavy Scoring
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bfqGngAfDgS5dtoW-gCi2yEGJXXtLxxvQBFXCpW8py0YfwyffF6SHatbzxQTHLX1Q2kcDq0FNGoWeV32fM1-xsQ6FdbJbx0IZLYCq43T8besnxd5ZEz7aOhUjhJx38Bx5lG7i6sVEIVquadDVTeQXMtTKFcHviPTFV3kguzg73eqPiK3CrNy59drpA6jHCeR6eefs4tE21ibLj9wgfjK66IrJLUG9HTo7ux6GSOPOzIjz_wtmxFhrRvF49cwDb_4nq-nF-I2v2gRSKHO4sbreMuZhW2pvdT6FR1MBkb70IcmUTknEhf_om7YRcQ2DC50tWbUJ2Vg7_p0wBG0h4dAWLVVm2_KqLSpRbcasS4wdxFa701hcKXU1WtUgvWYlADzFnVCHMfQvZsEWYeVEjDfSruW3CNTUNBQtACLo7MaTMirnvNvF68fAnW_nqdGP1Zk9nlQ4Lk19TiUwlJkLXTUvmbSIrkhD6T_kxTiNXDMP7VUczYWG2IwVlViajGQ9_A43tyl7VDZNQapo_dZUm79aAV1mCAxCdNF6Z6pzoaB7G8tUYyiI5cEdWpYFSir7QwNiWnhWrFGsaSLAycOzq-OoEKf8YKyaj7Qh9pvkCFI5MIX9HXq=w616-h1094-no)
#5 Main
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EbsL2QSJ0mO2n21uUhZ2UiMpTvqEUeGrdhG1XyX9_gQjwy5uMg2bY7ZR14vewDPk6-eqQEE4p8qqDFtsXJ1B2HrMFY0J3v-KCYcF1alxcA_zszn8yXMsu_D3k6VGfIb12Z0ibtrRjumCUDzPWhiKwWfXRm7PPCLXeXs1Um4rMtM7e6QRv4TspNLsgUcu30DaAHx_mP6x9LWu3Ku-l1uM9Pvp2xKx0VPqETqcxBs1qmX2k6LsELuWAgVkLwaTNktvcP5lQ6Iewyf-PeleYalqActt8ce6YrDIeUmON8snRYnXeDrX8Dd3Dsx1nYj0kiGLlX6UR6Zc5Nuyhtk33wCr_DpuCEK6o_YSMwIHXKij71KLDYsD2kAm-rFc7i7GiYqK_mlOitxArm4jdwZ2YmUAAGRklTseJZhRrjKiZr0bRdIuNx-LHajrDH7z7AdovJERHRutHJ-Zjams0HWuqdTe3LlA3EFpMKIsWhRd-GOWAkLdkVmtL0JOI0_sHqqItAkL3T0CcO9KA7t6GnrjBa0wbiaxW6eX_RR_VcJEf1w4Z8e3EFLE3_tdc_OBlEAWKGWJ4EZMdgkK77NTy8ecehidk2a2tknUCV2C9OpOCZJusIm_xjyG=w1560-h878-no)
#1 Rod
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_bwaFlbngDGUdrRLdmv4wYyflUsITmqOEUG_izRebE0L5rNWS4FqZPzQI-o50VLBHDSMml61vScYvKihRKPYmhLYjpplpOOFaIAnyS5ioKL-oy9mF-AeiNX5NkmGF2TwbXg6Fg2MEcxfM94vsPdKT6HAcHSfhS0zUjU2vqYSKWvQvtjM6oocwV7qYLpZo8KrpxF1S6zgLgR42beg05_577ReQ0WhxzYVDYPTBc4SZi-oQRh_O0VcTm1vwuo3Z8F_XOzNN-8Bbl7-ngqKctspGSUQZB42jvLmY-CLRs8UAwcTphYc-QHGxcU4Kz68Zr3SWI1b9vsPXSrX2rhOrkw5p3eh8FVVb8F5-iiHuEd2gntlemc8atXsgC8LXzuadERbz72fT4XgDd6r102zoAL8qTI5ePTgh3uLtxc5-IfjoiOym-PwTHLQTVCrzwaP6bFRM9tolYI1Og9ttDtRApq21U6dRdLT651NzePZtbLH6yc-XjakFR7qR7HKOeyWJYCV36Q7gqwXwpWkGoI4zzPPVxiC4xpP4uEJjbxENz-F4f55cic8qwEmNomiH6OngGLnEj-AK0tMHwVzLXGOv-sF5UfB2TJF8DLjdtFOuVYO8ctYsTZu=w1560-h878-no)
#2 Rod
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iT6Ddi1Fke1MOP_BlhofpX3rAMPNUrx1tHZTR6yXzOvtl6vMEP_ak6x951_GYLXSzg9nLrCfMDCxizN0y3jCi-3fB-yRSazCVC-13dijyqtYXAXHU05roKfuSx2amVaPZtvB_-sOTbMMHb8zCoVZlj7ZqVQYN_yw0PCzXxGDMT4rgJGwYiIUt2SR0fmjdelD14jFsFXBN3sq-XIU1zITcRj2zmvIcfRL9M9Ws0tYpCZai9sq0vnXgl4YAIZWZP_M40jN6WV39AGJGnalg1yTHuvpU7ayVibe5HZVkod3KVMYfIacFHB-jU0DNCv3KxvzmzlMoGlffAYeL-w3FIr3DLC9Nr8ImP7i7K6cjI0oEhR7pC_Hbtd6Mm6mO0fFu3ttbi6cR_O7m-7AC5HxXtUzjEFDHBBhYPu-4FcplIpawKEKWfGTfHeJFa1BkE0PVcVPXVyOpvSAhdd4lJdUHWE6sz_eBQJNubmP9TfmPPjj7JnIzEngq6O4zdf8MbK0VRYjrPp9LpdmrIg6TQhgxvJVtdmUxH9MFXz-pHItLcQ7Z2HYLFq_krPBfnlX5DjdXAU9lOVhA1Apa7tgGouOjmZ0qm4skAEuLbD2HA5hPa5qSLsGgU5S=w1560-h878-no)
#3 Rod - Light Scoring...Wrist Pin is a little sticky
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wIFJvCr7SPnDfauIeAqL5L4L_GxzGZ2sbvX07ljFR4rUkUC3SIAIs3rg-CUvWQ3O0HNzBSkAHy0rRnfmqKpBtqkev824YXsFgm5Nd2AKEsiQ2Y3d8gdYw8egYsbjSvZxX3VJA-224-2S16zwiFMsUvE7AJkrHb-2U14jdZ3NtaMSBiLPcRiBt5hFxZw_dwrc3mQXT-Ucj0LmET_CX7NgHONY4lE9fkFw101T5tM1mxX1U6jWudOW5EcB6vQ-HhD-y0j6ls8kDUkY_E-UhTGm_F6znsEbsmO653CBs83IPr0OiClMq1hf2bXSce2ChHECm4DJSHHDZdHMoPizZcS5qytoYoCfc6SmutYlTY-bHPVaJXJT_iXzjDV5Q-0Eng_upq_b-3MHX5rLZthBN43fgpw4VNlO3IgsvKvFAY8EBnYpOquLR-oscqtE3kJ4uYJj6GZcqhjl45ONvz_Bchtqj9G7oKigpWv2oqh15_C3yS4fCZH_ooiMATprXl1e3F8TPeuePQh-cSQ5PJPSSZAFTvlWTr8PaN4nYnKhacaT4n0H2T1oB5OybHvXmPpGBDKlVKkGt03hDRbmQRd6IDSTXUIZS1-fTSzx8u9R9_UBbT6NoHLg=w1560-h878-no)
#4 Rod
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6ZcSWQeEXLkiZT2nxb57BA_l8yqZJUe76PG1hIsMfQ1EXfL7R0U-TgUKxk6hqoXaDfsC9JWx8zWuSJd8H8g5Pv565yyE2AQ_Sguw63Nkr6SXOUDuAnUsM1NgMYIx0yhqtjiggSbRPelv50KzzIafIVbFhrZsA7EFFIjVBgKIS9kJV3lH-xPX6d-CBFlQ7F4F_-jPBWwVraHmwASjKzSQwSVKvuFnGNCye399fPuJWresfXjNEFD6a2NCBad-I_8DQ-vHzIkuoca2wP6R_IkF9ZTCP53D1T7lvoHakPJjjWV-oDogSRssUEo-nNjsEmAbbGTlj38LqQouZSEfhZ43uCeUkiwl-eXVXlE9HxKSZoRUppQra3bYfyfhZGnIDAI4yL1PSljGpNtbLZvnBiPJj6SyVTNvpld07k9HWDUvViZAwr1abd7cCusQmTpdnfK_4Mu9L1KRYx_DVQ4cUt2igsCF9AOneD3P4vprNAapvKuZwTv8k-7WyQBLOkb1mL0rCJqJG1Cn2r5_su9aJyrcuQT6w29UC-sI2tIGMoarLo8KDKFnNv_WXrzy46PbFpVWYjLG6Qb2k6BY4ulyhOI44VAGKVdPsiOgK7o3fz6eoOWm5kWu=w1560-h878-no)
#5 Rod
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3BhBdEVAKVEP9XAH_Rk2TmA2ugPTvvtKldr-xIACRXf0f83ji9Ar22CLGP63raaR-ajxNMZQF3odlIuDSvvMmkBVovnTaOFXdz_PlNNk1VRBOETiK76Mc4VsBeOwqcEeRiHk4w2L-DFFAGGJG-OBWejva0vc9JZaEqnRbCcrafax7StP_qFlN43MnmNKfyCgNElnQOSnji4rLRNDAT9112Z2s4H1YfZw1zIyzLN6Tm9qmoDr0yKVALLrs9K13Mf2gBjI1x2EuGeSv1a3XRzcpKwpHLIsyuVbTVJYgtoHXS7Ep7_HizZanEFcYb5vsa-Ll9OsJrwPb8b3i-C46URp3B3FT-4A6Q2f8NoiMbauHObW0lt1IPMyWCMEB2HRK0E_R7McNFE8dUgiH6qsbTqYP4O543v6eFL0BHtDOHv1aPYKjTIQ2zj8sKdhW8Mwy3O4n8-OKbSsuc6_7eDgSMci25v9ZznkCzlH_5ikWZ4Vw-QaK1BOh5CbGPZFlin52X4GhAHRv-0p1YfPnMaUH1J_ZSW2eKVT1mooMFavYmxxh3qBdT_DqfYbsqRHptBRdrSO2nCjXcPH0Mn__vIpW8ErrBJeBYG6aMqtnincepKZPxjp2mBV=w1560-h878-no)
#6 Rod - Scoring
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VrwwFsnk22yRv61lhWKxnkkTWKj9orw5zns206evBgxSFzRV1SxZpcFUd58xTE7caACOPXpWWS39Kj1CmfaKv00RH1-svBMIF-m6efxJSOV7NtIp__sVb62ZKcopioirXRpOAi5TKar_nysxWSyhk6qTolyDC_HFbcK5ar3xcbDeVi_0WMPOZJejUOQza8A73sH5EAXq5LgGlABbweWCtntTeAK8v-8eYxSN2Q-cOWNNuNKBD4baxc11Eid-6MZ4zEtDyQ4nTd84Rlx8aPX8BQaB06RV4N5Pf8bSNznzAYl_11kydBJXiEgZUujn6mMkHnXr_pzdF7Ls09caosRcrOJ0GSU0L3idAbDQN3DQ9e5Zbrf2XWAlY2nqVszG32h0dynltU17ZR6d_X_GoUHCiAau_aVfFRGzb7i6oaanIf7esgsEtrLi6MMu_devdbwofYVOOTGtGufoJVgtGBxRdv-A5ryJIO7bQdIjJQBPA_5vcK18rQVuqKHaua0hBH6yfi0WdoQ1DmMREvGRRefF_1pFPC2wbBl6h1KndyWUPygeBJ36QxdsLLKQzeJnASMmMdddmFV33QLvTX4-qElmJlluwU7Xy0QHpiBYl5brCJ_VbclS=w1560-h878-no)
#7 Rod - Light Scuffing
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0VR6g0Z0OT-YJiTyJwpUomo9YHse93mb4a9xODFbyoQgP-ZK9E_4VPo4mMLadFYAgo5Zs--NC_ogMH9Wx8mGBSyJlKkxoVprmBOD6i5JQba2Dmz3A_UDmKS-x4is8n1WiVrQSXFKp3gMu2n7USdtpn0nNJgbRz3P3Sc8GRNDqWlxbsSidbS6Cw5vFP5uEY3Qsp8z9vh-zCXMflKTrSzhhI36_p-Wl8KVUbry1nle4vDSYAy4y5O9Psrf7tEhlMNvWezM7pqWHps_xG74zBPmPIcU78NQ9gGOXBcmExoT1HiH8KwGEcftSS0lpphUl0WDOrkcvB16xTpcO1fI99YSiFiFh6i5BfyliToqljTIkN7kmbNUqaW2llOH0TZhXFLOnca_KWsoG1tPD2s9mlrZEVKuzz6aB9gtsQ2cHg9YS05i3E-BSWAE1TMJif_sbz9vT9egHzCcnt8Mkdgdo1mnETAMf7ENadbqGoTQOsoW5Pd7wdlqepO6Hiev6XQdrUZQbPJIxTE-Ra9tzhdA8S6UZd753JOZXWF1hB7e6vdfN5aBhzHzh5Ybt7TRLOzlAZ7tA7tPRUI4T6rxxkSdgL_iM-bzKNAn7b2cMQJePi3v-6ERXgBH=w1560-h878-no)
#8 Rod
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I wouldn't run the LS3 intake on it if you want it to make good torque.
What you have should be a LQ4 which makes 300hp and 370tq.
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It would be a custom cam too Capt'n that addresses making torque down low, but...I was looking at some old articles and saw like CarCraft where they made a bunch more power with the GMPP Hot Cam in a stock LQ4. So I may go with a custom camshaft grind before I stick this engine in the truck. With tuning they made 450 lb-ft of torque and 483 HP. At 2,200 RPM it was making 399 lb-ft.
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The truck intake makes more power and torque than a LS1 intake. The only thing better is a trailblazer ss intake. I would definitely put a cam in it. The LS motors really like cams...
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
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Well...major progress in the last few days! I got my fuel system all finished...just need to run the AN line from the frame up to the fuel rail. This LS is a returnless system, so I am running the Corvette filter/regulator mounted in the rail and then only need to run one line to the engine.
I got the engine final mounted in the truck, transmission installed and transfer case installed! All of the heavy bits are in their home and everything lined up and fits rather nicely!
I also spent and entire day pouring through my truck wiring manual and figuring out which wire is which, labelling wires, pulling my cruise control wiring out, removing the stock cruise control module and vacuum line, and removing the entire powertrain wiring harness and stock PCM.
Oh, and I also put my steering column back together with the new Cruise control stalk.
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Went through the intake valley and installed a new gasket and knock sensor grommets. Did the LS knock sensor TSB. Checked the knock sensors then put a loop of RTV around the valley cover at both knock sensors. Left the back section open for any water to escape. I left the rear foam block on the intake manifold, but once I installed the intake and examined the installation I thought better of it. I was able to remove the rear foam block with the intake manifold installed!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sA9Sw4RNqQzppIm9mCkprx13HwD2kn058pJdQ2e3fXVNK7MmhnsAR7VZ5QJPX3s6Neh4BUaVS2z0nVF5YFJtWkqoi_riu8WS34MG7Q_0JptH1zgfu8-jPCnvfQ8QR0d1d8IRA4yWaOPYkW9xVhHu2eokTgGwErVdRj9nezJTtPlW1F4G3aIuxyg4_KCGV4tG-70RNrvT-MZ0C0UIxbk35UDGc3dRnZmq53KKGt-p9DDoew78OostEN0DlwzwtXPp3vzBIQjffYAIcB_GVV14VExDbwYoQxMo0T2RV-RGIQs_dP2K9BQxPiimLws3u3RRl0bAglq69QUVUY68jnRe-Ev_9k8KkRvxVm2ZGTuaUBhcaVhO_CwvDsr1KeSSnQFUMI7KR8nnQm3_mRr60y-tJh3sq3Mu_ym2fbPPSZN9SCH1QhNxF1pht21KdL5nw16Kb6YTAIQ2Oj1jgkvOEm9PdPJnwU-oddtMGEnGqNdXdJcZQ92uV4Vn7bABo-zrWjz15xUYPlFhzmnWgXVuMh4BBfXw1EJsBGQg-_g-URduS6gLKBiA0SAXEkoUIXfAEZb-4YBEzf9qh3voeVYV-dgBvXkzB_hP002DB81PiPphCg37ZvOCEZoospbZrzwjVWNwlC6yEU0vYkdl2vT_iFqsJSfXLR1FFB6OmuDEKx0sQhliog=w1560-h878-no)
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Trial fit my Schoenfeld 1302LS1 headers this weekend...and they fit like crap!!! Not sure what to do now?!
The driver's side actually fit great, with excellent plug access and could use the stock spark plug wires with the aluminum boot shields. However, the collector was too high and tight to the gear selector linkage! It needs to be about 3" lower and it would be perfect! The slip fit collector is going to rub on the linkage and there is no room for engine and chassis movement. Put a V-Band flange on it and forget it!!! The O2 sensor bung was totally in the wrong location and would present an installation and fitment challenge!
The passenger's side was totally frustrating!!! I could not fit it between the engine and frame-rail! The engine is totally centered and in the stock location, but it was a no-go!!! I couldn't even evaluate the fit, except that it wouldn't!
Schoenfeld says these headers fits: 1967 to early 1999 Truck. Says fits K10 Chevy Blazer 4 wheel drive. If that were the case then they should fit my 1991 V3500 just the same!
It is so frustrating because I had the stock Big Block 454 in this truck with this 4L80e transmission and full length headers and they fit in the truck and you could install them and remove them without lifting the engine.
What to do now???
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-10-LS-Chevy-GMC-Truck-Headers-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-Conversion-Swap-/271834891676?hash=item3f4a9f459c:g:tOEAAOSw~bFWOpOc&vxp=mtr
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Was kinda hoping for full length headers, but I will keep that in mind Vile. I sent an e-mail to Stan's Headers. They are not too terribly far from me. They make custom headers and custom exhaust. About the nicest in the state of Washington. I expect $$$, but we will see.
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Standing back and looking at the thing...and then using my phone inclinometer app, I realized that my engine is sitting with about 4° rearward slant (that's great!) and is heeled-over to the passenger's side 2°?! With the intake manifold on, I can see it more clearly. The top of the intake manifold is off of the centerline of the firewall by about an inch. I wonder if my frame is slightly off, or if just all of the bolt holes and fasteners have enough slop for it to tilt that much?! It won't solve all of my header issues, but maybe it will allow the RH header to fit?
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Haven't posted anything about my rig in a while. I have been slowing down in the last few details of my LS conversion, found here: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34079.0 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=34079.0)
Most recently I have been putting all new front-end stuff on. I am not super impressed with the aftermarket 4-lamp grille pieces and I think the Chevy emblem fits like crap, but it is on there and to the untrained eye, looks pretty good! Definitely shinier than the old stuff!
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ECQVHrd6Iqk81OpTIZsmiih6DmIxdFUomSGV9iwpToe2HcWX6zPiFM2yfToasIs8RVlIi2jQL0rsMe8hoMuCxn19UdbkK-i532vDR6_QqY_WnpaGE0aHPQ6STCPJO8-7MlSlUpuS7rudG9E8nZKXjsaPK1MnNTfEpvMrP5kOt0re65sPNWDWUjgbQraPC0auR5zoS2DcakSofnZt2xzCYXFKeOWaWtE6ZgeOh6KRKY0pG0fOzwizaaYN4d3ORjrRxmP9_KAwsZe0aLIc1EB-MugeO5W2V4Z7oOOtTS0h3eUHA2cgEacxdnBj1JL4Mta75YtxjF3EJTGd_6Nkbuxj8id2eOrUYHgw4NBK0d8TNFIPXEx9sA0ZT1-Z78XBQteOmwWVhcNKTxw_0dVjqnFoUnhXPDU2w1Vo_L9K7a3yp8O8Xu6oT3zC56s5Fl13u111eZbfNi0bOmHNBjCPng75hDEpSMSJhLnM2aR7CUFLAlmBzYGk8JAmdS8pEgImoZTgEEykZNzcIPb7AirRrjunD_akUAMC4cjtSGHI3dHkuhSzD1j5IQJC0OlFccUPBOP9Y2qJoHbA11D7tnyad8ZA1AAnay9Qpxfokh-LEEZWBtxScmrWJiVkq-9GDrsGQt9C-V30QkvPPrL5O3BDKyCNHX1PTJmgr8XI=w1920-h1080-no)
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Picked up my wrecking yard OEM hood find from the painter yesterday. Freshly painted in PPG Deltron DBC9700 Base Coat Black (AKA: Jet Black)!
Very little filler was used in the hood. As you can see my first hood behind it was a bust! I found this hood on a really straight and clean 1991 Suburban in original paint with zero damage.
I also found a set of 1973-1980 Front Bumper Guards and...AND...a set of 1981-1991 Front Bumper Guards! More on those later.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ApRmnL0RSWJFAUB6tzhv7lvsY4IHCLZyP60lPh1hhfrdSJYOJtWx8V9QEjv-wraO2gcApmiamq6UR0PqOAshp_IkCt-oe77mtDHUBa5AHjifS2U3gNQFmSqvWfmevZvRwCxxBbsLygob0g9JLJr9akA4-gZOEWN4bn81kdnEhuWiIDx6QM5b2Vdq4H0s1gp1xAI4p2mTJgmrq2cZ5Ohz_bTRL1Dh6-sF-gHzeFNV4K2UmhV22p9A1603Y9xwNuZ7TFThqXqWjzRVQWuqlFtDYHyzqHXfLOvpOzPz9UL0qnYmtIz-vM_4g3mKHxGS0ycwQ9HIm3J-Dy8fXq9RHNCSAiGzZx1nEcP_oCtmuHRitIMn01XTWkFRP4IcmjH3ek7VVVijAPrCqALQ77_y-AXzoxkm0_JVR8vUFL42-hFFi8C2vtBQ6wz6oN_HEFxJga45uEhViYctybl5Trx3WyfzP97wKQdXyVdjt2jYnBUhq00nu2hQJ5MmKgeC6fagwnc-xB6HFNHc3ktV5h4WfKDq3jOFgjKuLpdYATZ6pIXYbh2v8zwFnXcgzeBh9hTCmMUHXxZWIWfufhHGaX9dVHLpvslvtgxmNAss5TijVIBzho4XqlLi6yGiX0K_gxMTYa6jc_KSYghip18pilewQjyMvl4EcwiTupRxSCoejCZdXyv-rsgjXcxWEMqSC3U2MEvJvdvZXN78lcxAxfDLTNH6tnILb9WbG16Hyr3kAVxuoexq95I=w1920-h1080-no)