Author Topic: Ignition switch  (Read 3702 times)

Offline landry

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Ignition switch
« on: August 23, 2017, 11:22:04 PM »
I recently bought a new ignition switch for my 1985 c10 1/2 ton with a tilt steering wheel and I can not figure out what I have to take off to get to the old one to replace it if any one knows how to get to it plz let me
1/2 ton 1985 c10 short bed 305 v8 th300

Offline Rapid Roy

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  • Euless, Texas
Re: Ignition switch
« Reply #1 on: August 24, 2017, 06:16:34 AM »
Check youtube. That is what I used to figure out how to replace my 74 couple months ago.
1974 Cheyenne 10 LWB STOCK 350 W HEI /TH350/AC/4 BBL Quadrajet
Mopar by Birth
Chevy by Choice

Offline landry

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Re: Ignition switch
« Reply #2 on: August 24, 2017, 07:24:36 AM »
I couldn't find anything near my year on it
1/2 ton 1985 c10 short bed 305 v8 th300

Offline 1967KaiserM715

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  • 1985 GMC K1500 w/ 6.5 TD
Re: Ignition switch
« Reply #3 on: August 24, 2017, 10:13:56 AM »
It's pretty much the same 1973 to 1987 (91), you'll need a steering wheel puller and a lock plate compressor.

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Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)

Offline Johnbravado

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Re: Ignition switch
« Reply #4 on: August 24, 2017, 10:44:01 AM »
this was a nightmare. If i ever have to do this again i am hotwiring my truck. the hardest part is going to find the pinhole switch release. I had to watch like 4 youtube videos in order to find the location. Also if you are doing that you may want to consider doing the turn signal thingy while you got it all torn apart if your turn signals are gummy or do not auto turn off.

Basically you just pull the steering wheel though and that is it. you dont even need this truck, ignition switchees are kinda of standard in how to replace.

Offline bd

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Re: Ignition switch
« Reply #5 on: August 24, 2017, 11:11:06 AM »
Neither of the following procedures is difficult if you are patient and allow yourself adequate time.  Don't rush the first time through the repair.

For the ignition lock cylinder, refer to How-To: Fixing a Sloppy GM Tilt Column and disassemble just to the point of replacing the lock cylinder.

For the ignition switch, remove the A/C duct crossing under the steering column and then the small lower dash plate directly below the column.  The ignition switch is inaccessible without dropping the steering column.  Set the ignition key in the OFF position and adjust the tilt column to neutral tilt, so the steering column is straight.  Remove the two 15mm hex nuts that retain the column in place and lower the column to rest on the seat.  Unplug the two ignition switch wiring harness connectors; the connectors are keyed and must be removed in a specific order.  Contort to remove the two (5.5mm or 7mm hex) ignition switch retaining screws and lift the ignition switch vertically off the column to disengage it from its actuator rod.  Be careful that you don't lose the two small retaining screws.

The new switch should be set to OFF by default.  Settle the switch down onto the rod to engage the rod socket and reinstall the switch retaining screws.  Reinstall the harness connectors in reverse order.  Before assembling any further, check to verify that the ignition switch is properly adjusted for correct ACC-LOCK/OFF-RUN-CRANK detent and operation with the column tilted to both extremes.  Note that the switch will be easiest to rotate in the neutral tilt position.  Loosen the switch retaining screws enough to slide the switch up or down the column to make an adjustment if necessary.  Once you are satisfied with the switch adjustment, raise the column and reassemble in reverse order.  Torque the column retaining nuts to about 27 ft-lbs.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)