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Today at 11:56:17 AM by mcgarijs
Views: 11 | Comments: 0

Current Air condition compressor is controlled by the ECM which is connected to the AC controls on the dash. Doing a 5,3 gen 3 LS swap now and cant find a drawing or anyone to help with how to interface turning on and off the compressor with new LS setup that doesnt talk to the old AC controls.
June 09, 2024, 02:43:54 PM by whipper.snapper | Views: 257 | Comments: 9

Hey guys so Iím doing a frame off resto. Of my 1987 Chevy v10 and currently I am working on the steering box.

Before I took the steering box off of the frame I noticed it was leaking right there behind the rag joint. (See attached pics)

I am here to ask what would you guys suggest I do? Do I need to do a complete rebuild on it? Or should I just replace the seal/rag joint thing right where the leak seems to be.

Also I am having a hard time figuring out exactly which make and model of steering box I have. So if you guys have an idea of which one it is plz let me know.

If you know of the exact rebuild kit I need plz drop the part # of the kit.
    Thank you guys in advance!!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
June 08, 2024, 03:06:10 PM by Chevygold | Views: 135 | Comments: 2

Here in the UK we have recently changed to E10 as the new standard petrol, E5 is still available but it is now the premium grade and a lot more expensive so generally I run on E10.
Last time I fuelled up I noticed the tank cap was a bit difficult to remove, on looking closer it appears that the plastic is swollen and the seal was in a bad way, these were new Stant locking caps fitted about a year ago, just wondering if anyone else had found this problem?
!976 Chevy C10 longbed with twin tanks.
Is there a metal cap available which might withstand the fumes of this awful E10 which we are forced to use and should it be vented or not?

June 05, 2024, 02:33:23 AM by berserk
Views: 224 | Comments: 4

A year and a half ago I replaced my 40+ year old leaf springs with skyjacker soft ride 2.5-in lift springs. They are made in America and they actually did a great job softening up my ride. Sadly I absolutely hate the 2.5-in lift, I'm middle-aged now with some reoccurring physical pain and I hate getting in and out of the truck every single time.

The issue is whenever I look up OE replacement leaf springs they all give exactly the same part number. And when you look at country of origin if they list its made in Mexico.

Dayton, general spring, dorman, husky etc. all have the same part number and it makes me think all these companies are sourcing the part from  the same foreign supplier.

Besides custom spring packs from Alcan and Deaver that cost 1000$ a pair are there any companies left who make USA manufactured OE replacement springs for a 1976 K10 Chevy?

Edit to add: If you have experience with these companies who currently use foreign supplied leaf springs are they good quality and hold up over time?
June 03, 2024, 07:50:37 PM by KamperBob | Views: 292 | Comments: 7

I'm replacing motor mounts on my 1984 k30 with 6.2 diesel. Getting them out was tricky. The engine could not be raised enough to slip them out due to interference. So I removed the frame brackets. That involved heating/bending a box wrench to hold the bolt heads tucked up inside those brackets on top. The rearward of each pair of bolt has a brake line blocking a socket from just grabbing the bolt.

The puzzler's on the passenger side engine bracket. On the rearward side (where the long bolt goes through the motor mount) instead of a round hole it's an open slot. To me it looks like a Bubba Mod not stock. Please feel free to correct me if GM did that on purpose. The service manual sketches indicate round holes not an open slot. I'm sorely tempted to weld it closed unless anyone can give me a good reason to leave it slotted. TIA

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