1987 R10 Driver

[Captkaos]

I am making it a step by step process of how to get from point A to point B that anyone can follow, and I am even adding any gotchas that may come along the way...

[Captkaos]

Sunday, July 1st, 2012: Back to the passenger side.  I ran the Dakota Water Temp wiring from outside through the dash and down to the Controller, and I lengthened the VSS sending wire and ran it over to the Dakota Controller.  I also spliced the AC request wiring into the Painless wiring so it will plug up like the factory did.



This is what it looks like outside the firewall now:


Starting outside the firewall I wrapped the wiring and Zip-tied it every 6-8" and then snugged it neatly out of the way.


In the picture below I have routed all of the wiring up to the gauge opening with Zip-ties and tape wrap and attached the Fuel sender, Oil sender, water sender, Switch 1 and switch 2 for the Dakota menu, VSS send.  Also seen are the 2 white plugs that attach to the Left turn and Right turn signal so they are displayed in the factory turn openings.



This is where I put the Dakota menu switches:


What is left on the Dakota controller at this point is the Check Engine, DIM switch, Ground and Accessory power, and the Ignition switch power to the LS ECM.  Once these are done everything under the dash (minus radio wiring) will be completed and then on to under the hood.

[Captkaos]

Friday, July 6th, 2012: Finished connecting the Ground and Accessory power to the Dakota module and the ECM Ignition power wires to the  fuse box.  I made all of the wiring really long since as I need to get everything up top located so I can set the length.  After getting these connected I mounted the Pedal assembly back into the truck.




Here you can see how much of a jumbled mess it is with the wires long.

[Captkaos]

Saturday, July 7th, 2012: Unbolted the module from the pedal assembly and velcro tied all of the upper the wiring to check for proper length.





Once I got the length sorted out I began tape wrapping and Zip-tie'ing the dash/dakota wiring.


Once done with that I started shortening the firewall side wiring on the Dakota module, and then mounting it back.  Not seen in this picture, but the Dakota ALDL Module is also connected and wired.


Routed the ALDL wiring, the CAT5 for the Analog gauges and routed the dimmer wire for the Dakota module.


Routed the Brake, Hi Beam, Dimmer and Fuel sender wiring to the front of the Dakota module.  At this time the Dash/interior wiring is done (minus the radio)


Connected the ALDL, the CAT5 and the factory location turns to the VHX gauge and set it in place.

[thirsty]

Super clean install Capt! Looks great.

[Captkaos]

Sunday, July 15th, 2012: Didn't get much done between the rain, but I did get the Dakota Sending unit installed in the passenger side head and got the factory oil sensor removed and replaced with the Dakota Oil sending unit.

[Captkaos]

Saturday, July 28th, 2012: Modified the factory TBI firewall grommet by splitting it and cutting out the center to go over the wiring and fit back in the firewall. 



Since I have a Carb'd truck that I am converting to Diesel, I used its firewall harness instead of the TBI as it had less wires and removed the Carb Solenoid, 12V to Coil, Choke, Coolant Temp and Oil Pressure relay wiring from the bulkhead fitting.  (these were removed from the inside previously)



What I ended up with was wiring for the starter, starter solenoid, Power junction and distribution for the Alternator and battery along with the windshield washer wiring.  The starter and alternator wires will end up being shortened for some and lengthened for others to match the original Wiring for the 99-02 pickup.



Here is a pic of the harness plugged back into the firewall distribution block



Here is where I started routing the firewall distribution to where it needs to go.  In the foreground you can see the Alternator wiring that will end up being tied into the factory plug from the LS ECM along with the Power to the Alternator.  I need to remove the PNP wiring from the LS harness as I won't be using it and I am also going to pull the EVAP wiring that I forgot about while I was focused on the inside.  Then I can start bundling the LS and stock wiring back together.

[1980c10]

Looks great. Where are you going to install the new dimmer switch

[Captkaos]

Not sure that I am yet.  I need to put the stuff back under the dash first and then find a place for it that I like.

[1980c10]

I don't know if you are aware but you can set the brightness in the programming mode without the dimmer. You can also set the dash lights to come on without the lights being on(when the key is turned on).
You can set differant brightness levels for Night/day as well. However you do have to go into the program mode which involves shutting the key off etc.
In the daytime it is really nice to have them backlit but that level needed changes depending on the position of the sun. for that reason alone I am going to add a dimmer.
When I do that I am also going to add a "lights on" warning buzzer. The gauge lighting turns off with the key not the lights so it would be easy to leave them on. especially if you're used to seeing them in the day time.
I'm curious if you could add a non Dakota dimmer switch as the appearance of it seems like it would be a little too obvious for my taste as nothing else in my dash stands out like the Dakota switch might.

[Captkaos]

Yes I am aware that is why I am not going to use it yet.  I had one setup in a digital version and it wasn't that bad.
You can't use a non Dakota Dimmer on them, so don't try...

[Captkaos]

Saturday, August 4th, 2012: Before I start to bundle all the wiring from the truck and the ECM together, the perfectionist in me got the better of me.  I refused to leave plugs in the harness that I wasn't going to use.  So I decided to pull the EGR wiring along with the PNP (connector) wiring out of the ECM harness

This is the EGR wiring: (99-02 Blue connectors 23, 48 and 55 and Red connectors 7 and 41)


This is the PNP bundle (99-02 Blue connectors 32, 34 and 72 and Red connector 62, plus I had to cut a ground and power out)

[reload]

I have a question regarding the fuel pumps you're using (EP241).  I am getting parts together to drop an LM7 into my 84 K20 and I am currently stuck on the fuel system.  I would like to keep the oem tank if at all possible.  Can I get an 87+ sending unit, upgrade the pump to the EP241 and drop that in my tank? Guessing baffling/top lock ring wouldn't work, correct?

How much fuel pressure does the EP241 produce, and what are you using for a filter/regulator (Corvette filter/reg combo)?

Thanks!
-Matt

[Captkaos]

The EP241 pump was installed in the TPI and LT1 powered Vehicles and it flows 40gph at 50-55 psi, a EP381 pump was ran on the later Vortec motors and LS, it flows 50-60gph at 80-90 psi.  both of these are intank pumps and will work with the factory setup.  The EP381 would require the use of a regulator and would be best used with the 99-up Vette filter/regulator and allow you to run a single feed to the intake rail.

What I am using is a factory tank and sending unit with a EP241 and the factory EFI filter and a feed and return line.

[reload]

Awesome!  One thing, will the later model (87+) sending units "drop in" my older 84 tank?  Or I am I better off replacing the tank with a later model.  The tank is only about a year old, thats part of the reason I would like to keep it.