Author Topic: Fuel Tank Alternatives  (Read 2286 times)

Offline cwilson jr

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Fuel Tank Alternatives
« on: January 30, 2020, 09:54:11 PM »
My 85 K10's tank has started leaking on the bottom.  I'm not sure I really feel like removing the bed, etc. to replace it, the straps, and anything else.  I don't use the truck that much these days, and I hail from a state that does not do any kind of inspections whatsoever, so I was curious if I had any options, even if they're more permanent, temporary ones.


Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Fuel Tank Alternatives
« Reply #1 on: January 30, 2020, 10:22:51 PM »
on my mud truck i put a 5 gal boat tank in the passengers side and ran a fuel line through the firewall to the carb with a electric carb fuel pump. i wouldnt really recommend it for something driven on the road and if i did drive it on the road i would of replaced the tank and straps and called it good. on my 91 v3500 i replaced one of the fuel tanks and straps without removing the bed, the only screw up i did was make the fuel lines too long.
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Offline roundhouse

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Re: Fuel Tank Alternatives
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2020, 11:25:49 AM »
I’ve replaced em several times without removing the bed
  It’s a pain working the new lines but it’s doable

A new tank is about $100 from rock auto

Offline ehjorten

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Re: Fuel Tank Alternatives
« Reply #3 on: February 05, 2020, 08:37:08 AM »
I have replaced 4 tanks without removing the bed.  It really isn't that hard!  Easiest if the old tanks are nearly empty.  I just use a jack with a big piece of wood to spread the load.
-Erik-
1991 V3500 - Gen V TBI 454, 4L80E, NP205, 14 bolt FF, D60, 8" Lift on 35s
1977 K20 Silverado - 350, THM350, NP203, 14 bolt FF, D44, Stock Lift on 31s
1969 Chevelle Malibu Sport Coupe - EFI350, THM350
1968 Chevrolet Step-side Pickup - 300HP L6

Offline 75gmck25

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Re: Fuel Tank Alternatives
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2020, 09:11:44 AM »
I've had both tanks off my K25 to replace the sending units and its not that hard a job if the tank is relatively empty. I can also do it on my K25 without jacking up the truck, but there is not a lot of working room once its dropped down
- Take the fuel line clamps off the three hoses where they connect to the hard lines on the frame or to the switching solenoid for dual tanks.
- Take out the two screws that hold the metal fuel filler to the body and slip it out of the bracket/retainer.
- Put a jack and a long, wide board (about a 3-4' 2x8 works well) on top of the jack, and use the jack to put pressure against the tank bottom.
- Remove the 4 bolts for each bracket, using a ratchet and short extension to clear the frame.  As you remove them the tank will start to have play.
- Drop the tank down using the jack and at the same time guide the lines up and over the frame.  There may also be a retainer on the frame that is screwed down to hold the lines in place.  Check to make sure the metal filler neck does not get hung up on the bed side.

Reinstallation is just the reverse. 

With a new tank you also want to use a new sending unit and ethanol resistant fuel lines with EFI-style full circle clamps. SAE J30R7 ethanol-resistant hose is rated to 75 PSI, and SAE J30R9 hose is EFI hose rated to about 100 PSI.  I found it cheaper to buy the hose online in 20 foot lengths because the local parts stores charged about $3-4/foot.

Bruce