73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: dieselman123 on February 06, 2015, 11:08:27 AM
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OK it's been a long time coming for that I am in the final steps of rebuild my sbc 355 with vortec heads. My question is about breaking in the new motor. Everything is brand new inside except for crank and rods but they were reconditioned. I want to use rotella t or delo 400 15w40 with either the lucas zinc additive or the hyper lube additive. Or do you guys recommend break in oil. If I go that route I would purchase comp cam break in cause my cam Is a flat tappet. Also can some on explain to me the best break in procedure for an engine. I know I have to put plenty of assembly lube on bottom of lifter but I'm confused on the whole process after reading so many different opinions. Someone please shead some light on this subject. Thanks in advance
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The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins. Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
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The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins. Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.
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http://www.jegs.com/customerservice/chevy%20_crate_engine_break-in.pdf
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The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins. Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.
^ What he said. Get it up to 2000 RPM as fast as possible and let run for 30 minutes. I also bought a oil pump primer the spins the oil pump without starting the engine. Then I quickly installed the distributor, hooked the plug wires up, checked radiator fluid and fired the engine up. Adjust the idle speed up to 2000 rpm for 30 minutes. Watch all gauges to make sure thermostat opens and you have good oil pressure. Cross fingers, say a quick prayer, etc.... :)
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The card that came with my cam specifically stated do not start break in until up to operating temp.
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Any suggestions on the kind of oil to use and the comp cam card didn't say anything about that
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Any suggestions on the kind of oil to use and the comp cam card didn't say anything about that
Any dino oil (i.e. not synthetic) is fine as long as you put a break-in additive in it. Comp has one, GM has one.
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In addition to all of the excellent advice above, when I built my 454 I left my inner valve springs out until I had run the engine some. At my first oil change I then installed the inner springs. Just remember by doing this you lose all of the benefits of dual valve springs (harmonic dampening, seat and open pressure, temperature control, etc.), and you should never rev the engine beyond 66% of the cam's advertised red line until the springs are properly installed.
Also it should be noted that the piston rings break in almost instantaneously, and the break in procedure is to benefit a flat tappet cam, and traditional ball type rocker arms. Roller cams, and roller rockers do not need this type of attention so the break in procedure, and oil additives being discussed in this thread is not necessary on those engines.......it won't hurt to do it on a roller engine, but overall it is a waste of time.
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Also, if you are running a solid lifter cam, both flat tappet, and roller, constantly checking valve lash is a must. If the lash is allowed to open excessively the collision of the parts as the slack is taken up will be more destructive on new, unseated components.
And, I'll change my oil filter the first time after just 30 minutes run time. Then change the oil and filter after 100 miles of driving.
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Vavoline vr1 has high zddp in it thats what i use along with break in additive!
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The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins. Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.
i thought the cam was under oil pressure? Wow. Looks like i got to do more reading.
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All of the moving bits in engines are oiled under pressure, and have been for a long time.
The issue is that at idle the oil flow rate and pressure is the lowest, especially since a new engine, until the bearing surfaces seat, have a lot of leakage of oil back to the sump through all the gaps. So the idea is to keep the oil pump going fast enough to keep up with the seepage until the surfaces seat and close up.
You really, really don't want to idle a new engine.
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My rebuilder had me run the idle at ~2500 for 20 minutes. Then I did the Motoman break-in procedure. Take it out, do a few medium throttle pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Do a few more WOT pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Then replace the oil. Done.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It's very controversial and always good for a few pages of argument on any forum.
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My rebuilder had me run the idle at ~2500 for 20 minutes. Then I did the Motoman break-in procedure. Take it out, do a few medium throttle pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Do a few more WOT pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Then replace the oil. Done.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It's very controversial and always good for a few pages of argument on any forum.
Not controversial to me. That sounds exactly right, and agrees with the GM published procedure.
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The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins. Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.
i thought the cam was under oil pressure? Wow. Looks like i got to do more reading.
http://animagraffs.com/how-a-car-engine-works/
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Not controversial to me. That sounds exactly right, and agrees with the GM published procedure.
Man, I learn something new every time I log on to this site. Where can I find that procedure? Most car makers I've seen advise you to baby it, don't rev too high or drive at a steady speed for the first 500 miles or so. I was highly skeptical of the Motoman procedure when I first heard of it, but it's how I do it now.
I heard a rumor years ago that GM would start up new engines fresh off the line and run them wide open to break them in. Not sure if there's any truth to that, but it's interesting.
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Not controversial to me. That sounds exactly right, and agrees with the GM published procedure.
Man, I learn something new every time I log on to this site. Where can I find that procedure? Most car makers I've seen advise you to baby it, don't rev too high or drive at a steady speed for the first 500 miles or so. I was highly skeptical of the Motoman procedure when I first heard of it, but it's how I do it now.
I heard a rumor years ago that GM would start up new engines fresh off the line and run them wide open to break them in. Not sure if there's any truth to that, but it's interesting.
Link is in one of my posts above. Says JEGS, but it is word-for-word same as the procedure I got with my GM crate 350.
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I wonder why the original owner's manuals stipulate a "slow-and-steady" break-in while their crate division recommends basically the opposite?
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Not Controversial to me either. On flat tappet setups I would prelube the motor to get oil to the top, crank it up and get it up to RPM of about 1000, make sure it will run and start at 1800-2000 rpms for about 15-20 minutes. When I am done with that, using non detergent zddp oil, I get it down to idle, verify everything is ok, swap the filter out and drive it like I stole it. With a number of full throttle runs and part throttle runs keeping an eye on the temp and pressure. If everything is ok, I drive it normally and if I want WOT and after about 500 miles replace the oil. We have built one, broke it in and took it the the races all in the same night before.... back in the day.
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OK it's been a long time coming for that I am in the final steps of rebuild my sbc 355 with vortec heads. My question is about breaking in the new motor. Everything is brand new inside except for crank and rods but they were reconditioned. I want to use rotella t or delo 400 15w40 with either the lucas zinc additive or the hyper lube additive. Or do you guys recommend break in oil. If I go that route I would purchase comp cam break in cause my cam Is a flat tappet. Also can some on explain to me the best break in procedure for an engine. I know I have to put plenty of assembly lube on bottom of lifter but I'm confused on the whole process after reading so many different opinions. Someone please shead some light on this subject. Thanks in advance
Hi dieselman123,
The Rotella Triple Protection 15W40 with its higher zinc anti-wear content would be great for your rebuilt Chevrolet SBC 355 (today’s Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 has a zinc anti-wear content of approx. 1,200 ppm).
-The Shell Rotella Team