Author Topic: break in  (Read 8763 times)

Offline dieselman123

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break in
« on: February 06, 2015, 11:08:27 AM »
OK it's been a long time coming for that I am in the final steps of rebuild my sbc 355 with vortec heads. My question is about breaking in the new motor. Everything is brand new inside except for crank and rods but they were reconditioned. I want to use rotella t or delo 400 15w40 with either the lucas zinc additive or the hyper lube additive. Or do you guys recommend break in oil. If I go that route I would purchase comp cam break in cause my cam Is a flat tappet. Also can some on explain to me the best break in procedure for an engine. I know I have to put plenty of assembly lube on bottom of lifter but I'm confused on the whole process after reading so many different opinions. Someone please shead some light on this subject. Thanks in advance
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Offline Da67goatman

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Re: break in
« Reply #1 on: February 06, 2015, 12:38:56 PM »
The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins.  Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.
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Offline enaberif

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Re: break in
« Reply #2 on: February 06, 2015, 12:52:38 PM »
The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins.  Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.

Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.

Offline rich weyand

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Rich

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Offline Don5

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Re: break in
« Reply #4 on: February 06, 2015, 03:03:50 PM »
The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins.  Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.

Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.

^ What he said. Get it up to 2000 RPM as fast as possible and let run for 30 minutes. I also bought a oil pump primer the spins the oil pump without starting the engine. Then I quickly installed the distributor, hooked the plug wires up, checked radiator fluid and fired the engine up. Adjust the idle speed up to 2000 rpm for 30 minutes. Watch all gauges to make sure thermostat opens and you have good oil pressure. Cross fingers, say a quick prayer, etc.... :)
It's been a LONG time since I have been called a newbie. Just sayin....

1979 GMC K15 355, SM 465, 205, 3.73 Dana 44 with a Spartan Locker, 12 bolt Eaton limited slip and 6 inch lift with 36 x 12.50 Super Swamper TSL's.

Offline Da67goatman

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Re: break in
« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2015, 04:02:53 AM »
The card that came with my cam specifically stated do not start break in until up to operating temp.
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1989 R2500 Suburban mild 350 TBI 700r4 10.5" 14bolt 4.10 w/ 33s
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Offline dieselman123

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Re: break in
« Reply #6 on: February 07, 2015, 11:04:11 PM »
Any suggestions on the kind of oil to use and the comp cam card didn't say anything about that
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Offline rich weyand

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Re: break in
« Reply #7 on: February 08, 2015, 08:20:13 AM »
Any suggestions on the kind of oil to use and the comp cam card didn't say anything about that

Any dino oil (i.e. not synthetic) is fine as long as you put a break-in additive in it.  Comp has one, GM has one.
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift

Offline Engineer

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Re: break in
« Reply #8 on: February 08, 2015, 09:57:37 AM »
In addition to all of the excellent advice above, when I built my 454 I left my inner valve springs out until I had run the engine some. At my first oil change I then installed the inner springs. Just remember by doing this you lose all of the benefits of dual valve springs (harmonic dampening, seat and open pressure, temperature control, etc.), and you should never rev the engine beyond 66% of the cam's advertised red line until the springs are properly installed.





Also it should be noted that the piston rings break in almost instantaneously, and the break in procedure is to benefit a flat tappet cam, and traditional ball type rocker arms. Roller cams, and roller rockers do not need this type of attention so the break in procedure, and oil additives being discussed in this thread is not necessary on those engines.......it won't hurt to do it on a roller engine, but overall it is a waste of time.
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Offline Engineer

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Re: break in
« Reply #9 on: February 08, 2015, 10:02:50 AM »
Also, if you are running a solid lifter cam, both flat tappet, and roller, constantly checking valve lash is a must. If the lash is allowed to open excessively the collision of the parts as the slack is taken up will be more destructive on new, unseated components.

And, I'll change my oil filter the first time after just 30 minutes run time. Then change the oil and filter after 100 miles of driving.
2002 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 8.1/ZF6sp RC/LB
2001 Chevy 2500HD 4x4 6.0/4L85E EC/SB
1997 Chevy Blazer 4x4
1994 Chevy K-2500 4x4 C6P 5.7/4L80E
1979 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10
1977 Chevy K-30 4x4 4sp 4.10 454

Dad of an Eagle Scout, and a Life Scout

Offline Dan75k20

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Re: break in
« Reply #10 on: February 08, 2015, 02:55:37 PM »
Vavoline vr1 has high zddp in it thats what i use along with break in additive!

Offline Stewart G Griffin

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Re: break in
« Reply #11 on: February 08, 2015, 05:05:36 PM »
The procedure I follow is to fire it up and let it idle up to temp. Then my cam break in was a slow steady sweep from 1500rpm to 3000rpm and back for 30 mins.  Then I drained the oil and was ready to go.

Engine should NEVER EVER idle during new break in with a hydraulic cam. The cam gets oiled by the crankshaft hence the start it and get it up to 2000+ as quick as humanly possible.

i thought the cam was under oil pressure?  Wow.  Looks like i got to do more reading.

Offline rich weyand

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Re: break in
« Reply #12 on: February 08, 2015, 05:47:26 PM »
All of the moving bits in engines are oiled under pressure, and have been for a long time.

The issue is that at idle the oil flow rate and pressure is the lowest, especially since a new engine, until the bearing surfaces seat, have a lot of leakage of oil back to the sump through all the gaps.  So the idea is to keep the oil pump going fast enough to keep up with the seepage until the surfaces seat and close up.

You really, really don't want to idle a new engine.
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift

Offline Dr_Snooz

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Re: break in
« Reply #13 on: February 08, 2015, 06:26:40 PM »
My rebuilder had me run the idle at ~2500 for 20 minutes. Then I did the Motoman break-in procedure. Take it out, do a few medium throttle pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Do a few more WOT pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Then replace the oil. Done.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's very controversial and always good for a few pages of argument on any forum.
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Offline rich weyand

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Re: break in
« Reply #14 on: February 08, 2015, 06:47:36 PM »
My rebuilder had me run the idle at ~2500 for 20 minutes. Then I did the Motoman break-in procedure. Take it out, do a few medium throttle pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Do a few more WOT pulls followed by vacuum braking back down. Then replace the oil. Done.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It's very controversial and always good for a few pages of argument on any forum.

Not controversial to me.  That sounds exactly right, and agrees with the GM published procedure.
Rich

"Working Girl": 1978 K-10 RCSB 350/TH350/NP203 +2/+3 Tuff Country lift