Post by: frotosride on February 24, 2015, 07:37:15 PM
Just picked up a new remote control for the old man in the driveway. This thread will be dedicated to placing an 2003 LQ4 in a 1987 V10 Silverado. I will be picking the engine up on Thursday and will do all I can to document every step, bad idea and 'dam it' moments.
Post by: frotosride on March 01, 2015, 09:06:55 PM
The newest update. LQ4 from 03 Yukon Denali. From what I understand it has a different tune over factory truck style LQ4's which gives it 25 more HP. We will see. I fully intend on using both saddle tanks and the 700-R4. I will fabricate an bracket and lever for the TV Cable and pray I get it right. First on the list is stripping the harness and making her run. This engine only has 10400 miles so its still a baby! Not sure how far I'm going to go with the rebuild yet but everything will be posted.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 01, 2015, 10:28:34 PM
If you do use the matching transmission, you will need to make some adjustments for it to fit and make some changes to the drive shaft and some other things.
Overall I think you would be very happy and impressed if you used as much of the factory stuff as you can from the yukon, engine, trans, cooling components, wiring harnesses.
Post by: frotosride on March 08, 2015, 06:59:21 PM
Looks like spaghetti tonight.. Getting started on the wiring. Before I took the harness off the engine I labeled everything with a liable maker. I have to start pulling pins and making up my mind about the drive by wire..hmmm to drive by wire or not. If it wasn't for the TV cable it would be a no brainer! I'm not scared of the DBW just of burning up the tranny.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 08, 2015, 08:09:14 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 08, 2015, 08:16:36 PM
Starting with the firewall plug to the in cab fuse block. Label each wire by its number and letter designator. If you look real hard you can see letters 'A-F' on the short side and '1-12' on the long side.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210259_1_zpsbljhkchy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210259_1_zpsbljhkchy.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210222_1_zpsjbifqphq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150308_210222_1_zpsjbifqphq.jpg.html)
Once they are labeled, pull the blue lock rail up and lightly push the black wire pin lock out to release the wires from the block. I cannot stress enough how important it is to label everything first. You can disassemble it row by row to help you label each wire.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 08, 2015, 10:03:53 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 11, 2015, 03:00:30 PM
So I decided to keep the DBW and weld a lever to actuate the TV cable for the 700-r4. So I bought this should be here at the end of the week!
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 11, 2015, 11:43:47 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 14, 2015, 07:15:23 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 14, 2015, 07:19:04 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 15, 2015, 02:42:28 AM
By the way, I'm gonna pass on the new welder, 25 grand is a little steep for me at the moment lol.
Post by: Captkaos on March 15, 2015, 01:12:41 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 15, 2015, 11:20:33 PM
looking forward to seeing this. The Denali should have a LQ9 in it BTW...I said the same thing to the guys I got it from, Justchevytrucks.com, and they swore it was an LQ4..either way its to my advantage so oh well. I'm planning out the fuel system now. Just to make sure Capt, the hardlines are 3/8 and return is 5/16 right. I'd hate to order the wrong hardline adapters.
My plan now is to keep both tanks and just remove the supply lines from the selector valve replacing it with -6 lines and fitting as well as a check valve coming from each pump. All the wiring will stay the same and the selector valve will still route the return line to the appropriate tank. I think I'm going with the ACDelco EP381 unless there's a reason not to. The fuel rail has a regulator so it should be fine since the engine requires 4bar 58psi and the pump puts out 60psi. I don't think I need a regulator.
I do have a question about engine plates. I do not want to move the transmission or cross member in either direction so will a set of plates that mount in the stock location work?
Also does anyone now where I can get the pilot bushing for the flexplate to make up the difference between it and the TQ convertor?
Post by: Colby on March 15, 2015, 11:55:08 PM
Shawn
Post by: frotosride on March 16, 2015, 10:19:56 AM
Post by: Captkaos on March 16, 2015, 12:36:30 PM
Fuel line sizes are right, If you are running the fuel selector, you will need E85 safe high pressure hose and EFI clamps, you can't adapt a -6 fitting to it. If you are doing that, it will save you some money in fittings.
I would run 2 -6 lines and adapt the 5/16" size up on the engine side of the switch valve.
I know Justchevytrucks.com talked to them a few times.
Post by: frotosride on March 16, 2015, 06:54:05 PM
you aren't going to run the High pressure pump behind the tbi are you? I wouldn't.
Fuel line sizes are right, If you are running the fuel selector, you will need E85 safe high pressure hose and EFI clamps, you can't adapt a -6 fitting to it. If you are doing that, it will save you some money in fittings.
I would run 2 -6 lines and adapt the 5/16" size up on the engine side of the switch valve.
I know Justchevytrucks.com talked to them a few times.
I'm surely not running the Ep381 behind the TBI..wow that would be a mess. I'm just taking the supply lines from the selector valves and plumbing -6 lines with a check valve for each pump. The factory switch will still control the pumps and sending units. It will also control return to the appropriate tank. I don't trust the selector valve and cannot find any real specs for pressure ratings.
Post by: frotosride on March 16, 2015, 06:56:51 PM
Wonder what this could be...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150316_194555_1_zpsekvlco1b.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150316_194555_1_zpsekvlco1b.jpg.html)
A new welder...can't wait to start gluing some metal!!
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 17, 2015, 01:57:44 AM
Post by: Captkaos on March 17, 2015, 09:02:46 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2015, 03:04:52 AM
Can I split the welder topic off. I am interested in seeing your review/results. I have been tempted to buy a TIG/Plasma combo...I fully plan on talking about performance of all the new toys! To start with the initial quality seems OK. Exterior panels do align as I feel they should but that gave me a chance and reason to open her up. Internally it looks like perfection. I fully intend on welding for practice and feeling out my new machine next week. I got some aluminum plates to test the spool as well. If it performs as well as the videos and review I read before buying then I can get over the exterior panels... I really want to get a TIG mostly because I have never used one and like to say "I can and I have"... Im by no means an expert and I have no shielding gas as of now but I have flux core so I will rock with that and post the beads be they good or bad.
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2015, 11:06:31 AM
Got all the fuel components from kegs plus Hooker engine plates that mount in the stock location.
First order of business is exploding the harness on the engine so I can shorten and lengthen wires to mount the PCM in the TBI location. Ant some welding for relaxation in between!!
Post by: FlatBlack77 on March 19, 2015, 06:07:13 PM
i love where this is going
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 19, 2015, 11:26:40 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 23, 2015, 07:19:29 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 23, 2015, 08:12:55 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 08:00:28 AM
If you want wait a while and by that I mean wait until tomorrow, I'll ask the trans guy at work.
Deal I think I can not spend money for a day...I think!?
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 08:09:15 AM
Round 2.. Now that I have removed all the wires and sensors that I don't need it is time to reloom the harness so that I can put the PCM above the glove box. I will be extending some and shortening others. First order of business are injectors! For this I am literally just swapping injector pigtails from one bank to the other. Cylinder 1 will now be cylinder 2, 3will be 4 and so on... Once I pull each pin I will put them back in the C1 Blue connector for its new cylinder. This way I won't have to lengthen every wire when the right bank was longer to begin with..a little swap saves me soldiering time!
Post by: Captkaos on March 24, 2015, 12:19:00 PM
That spacer is less than $50 if you need one.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 24, 2015, 02:08:22 PM
The amount of upgrading you would have to do to the 700 to make it withstand the LQ4 is alot. You would basically have to put all the good stuff from the 65e into the 700, which is pointless. The 65e is a wayyyyy better transmission than the 700 anyway, PLUS your already using the computer to control the engine, as it also controls the 65e.
As Capt said, the 80e has a spacer between the crank shaft and the flexplate, the 65e does not use this spacer.
If you use the 700 behind the LQ4, your going to eat the 700 up pretty quick. It's much better to use the 65e that came behind it in the first place.
Now I know you got that welder to make a bracket for the 700 tv cable but if you use the 65e, then you can use the welder to make or modify and custom fit crossmember to support the transmission.
I have a built up 89 700 behind my 355. It cost me about 2 grand to get it high performance parts and get it built. The next time I upgrade transmissions, I'm gonna use a 80 series 4L or an allison from a diesel.
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 05:12:48 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_180930_1_zpsujk7lup0.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_180930_1_zpsujk7lup0.jpg.html)
This is the best I can get while its on the stand. Sure looks like a spacer!
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 05:18:03 PM
From that mess earlier to this..
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_175240_1_zps0d0srcjv.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_175240_1_zps0d0srcjv.jpg.html)
To this.. Almost done then it will be mock up. At this rate I may mount the PCM under the seat!got plenty of length.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 24, 2015, 05:45:12 PM
Have you decided to use the 65e or not? It would be the smart thing to do I think in this situation.
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 06:00:36 PM
Both left and right bank Fuel Injector wiring with the banks switched.
Can I bridge All the pink hot wires on each bank in an effort to clean it up. I plan to only have one wire from each bank using 12-10ga and solder each together and heat during for protection? Any thoughts? Mostly want to know if it will cause any interference with the injectors?
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 06:05:38 PM
Have you decided to use the 65e or not? It would be the smart thing to do I think in this situation.
Yes I decided that I'd use a better tranny years ago. Firmly set on a 4l80...problem, my wallet barely allowed me to get an engine. So for now I'm gonna burn what I got and when the 700-r4 quits i will hopefully be in better graces with Uncle Sam and can afford my new to me tranny. Please oh please!!!
Post by: Captkaos on March 24, 2015, 07:41:51 PM
For the Injectors the pink wires can be bundled together.
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 08:08:38 PM
That appears to be a bell shaped flywheel indicating it was in front of a 4L60E. to go in front of a 700R4, you need the spacer in front of that for the torque converter if that is the case.
For the Injectors the pink wires can be bundled together.
I' sure I wil need the spacer so thanks for that. The Vin says 4L65E so you are right. From what I have researched the 4L65 is just beefier version with 5-pinion planetary and better 3-4 clutches. But the Torque convertor will bolt up without gouging out any holes? tats my real concern. I'm surely not comfortable doin that.
Post by: Displaced_Txn on March 24, 2015, 08:56:01 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 24, 2015, 11:03:51 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_231708_zpsirtlowjb.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150324_231708_zpsirtlowjb.jpg.html)
I cut the leads and spliced all the all time hots of the injectors to a single 12ga wire. I'm also going to turn the injectors in toward the fuel rails to hid as much of the wires as I can. Left bank is complete except trimming down the plastic guides to each injector. Slowly but surely its coming along. Gotta pick up some more 12ga tomorrow and settle on some loom. I really do not want to use the corogated OE style. I like the mesh type loom.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 25, 2015, 12:40:39 AM
I'm a bit stumped tho as to what your doing with with injector wiring? Swapping pig tails and stuff? Can you explain further?
Post by: frotosride on March 25, 2015, 02:49:40 PM
[/quote]
All I'm doing is giving myself the maximum amount of wire length to mount the PCM in the Cab. The PCM used to mount on the driver side fender. I intend on running it through the factory hole in the fire wall that the TBI ECM runs through. The right bank wires are a lot longer and by simply swapping them to the left I can gain several feet of wiggle room. As far as the soldering is concerned I'm simply cleaning it up a bit. Instead of having 4-16ga pink wires running from each bank I will only have 1-12ga plus PCM control wire from each bank. Hopefully this let's you into my head a little. But be warned its a weird and often Scarry place...but I like it,they know me there!
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 26, 2015, 12:44:25 AM
I get it now, for a second it sounded like the injector firing order was gonna be all backwards and then the motor wouldn't run lol I got it now tho.
Post by: frotosride on March 26, 2015, 12:33:44 PM
So I don't have any scrap laying around but I have this tranny jig that needed some reenforcement. Now it was first arc welded with a little CH welder someone gave me. That welder has a lot of settings Hi-Low-Off. Oh and out buddy jack was kick in out butts that night. Either way it will hold a 4L60E on a regular engine stand and makes life so much easier.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131820_zpsxz6adghd.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131820_zpsxz6adghd.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131753_zps55gmaciy.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150326_131753_zps55gmaciy.jpg.html)
I am not an experienced welder. I have only used a MIG a few times for some exhaust and plug welds to put quarter panel back on the bed of my old dodge. But these were the first burns. Looks like I need to slow the wire speed a bit but heat for the 1/8th plate seemed good. A lot of the second weld looks pitted because I burned through the old weld. Any experienced help would be appreciated. I'm gonna be practicing a lot. And aluminum will be the next test.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 27, 2015, 12:38:22 AM
(http://www.spartanmechanics.net/images/weave%20patterns.JPG)
(http://www.countrysidemag.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/welding_for_anyone-5.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on March 28, 2015, 10:07:17 PM
So I finnaly have felt good enough to run the fuel injector pins and swap the coil harnesses. Now I have plenty of length to mount the PCM in the cab. I will certainly have to shorten several but that will happen last. Now I will be consolidating grounds and all time hots. Then weld a run stand and pray the weather clears up enough to drop this thing in or at least work on the fuel system. It snowed for the better part of the day today so we will see.
Post by: frotosride on March 29, 2015, 06:19:08 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 29, 2015, 08:08:24 PM
Post by: Captkaos on March 30, 2015, 11:05:33 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 31, 2015, 04:33:07 PM
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 31, 2015, 06:14:30 PM
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 31, 2015, 06:21:11 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 31, 2015, 07:16:08 PM
This is what I've come up with. Normal (+) 12vdc is supplied from the dual tank switch and the relay provides a ground. On key on the pump primes for 2 seconds by way of the relay receiving ground from the ECU. Once running the pressure switch completes the circuit by grounding the pump to the block.this is the only thing that makes sense with a single wire pressure switch and a (-) body system..anything that can show me another way would be greatly appreciated. I'm gonna fluke it ASAP just to see.
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 31, 2015, 07:57:14 PM
(http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30539.0;attach=28691;image) (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Fuel_Emissions/X8736_1987_GMC_Light_Duty_Truck_Fuel_and_Emissions_Including_Driveability.pdf#page=94)
click the picture for the manual if you need to
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 31, 2015, 08:18:28 PM
this is the oil pressure switch that is for the fuel pump
it is isolated from ground and is like an oil pressure controlled toggle switch; one terminal "in" and the other terminal "out."
the single terminal ones are for the gauges and light.
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/PS150/image/2/)
(http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs/product-info/en/US/wl2/PS117/image/2/)
Post by: frotosride on April 01, 2015, 05:04:01 AM
Temps here are getting and staying in double digits so more progress will come soon.
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 01, 2015, 05:37:04 AM
Post by: frotosride on April 01, 2015, 01:05:14 PM
Post by: frotosride on April 09, 2015, 04:14:16 PM
Harness is ready now I stripped the engine down by removing the FED system. I color coded the bolts and took pics so I don't mix them up.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165321_zps6k5lfdwj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165321_zps6k5lfdwj.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165242_zpsg60yjipt.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150406_165242_zpsg60yjipt.jpg.html)
I planned on pulling the trigger and start pulling the 350 TBI and make the bike my DR but this happens last night.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150409_110533_zps5jtaywkq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150409_110533_zps5jtaywkq.jpg.html) hopefully it will clear up and spring will take effect up here soon.
Post by: frotosride on April 11, 2015, 03:04:40 PM
Post by: frotosride on May 04, 2015, 07:39:19 PM
Peeping one tank for now. I only picked this one because it still has the OE pump from 87 in it. I'm going to set it up and use it beside the run stand that I will hopefully be able to weld up next week. I picked up a job to repair fork seals on a Kawasaki KlR and that will fund the ECM flash and a few other small things.
Anyone out there know the answer to my previous question about the alternator wiring ?
Post by: LTZ C20 on May 05, 2015, 02:43:48 PM
Post by: frotosride on May 12, 2015, 12:20:01 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on May 12, 2015, 02:20:35 PM
Post by: frotosride on May 12, 2015, 07:42:03 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_131130_zpskkoqycoh.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_131130_zpskkoqycoh.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_130942_zps2b2qs5bq.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150512_130942_zps2b2qs5bq.jpg.html)
Post by: LTZ C20 on May 13, 2015, 01:35:47 AM
Post by: frotosride on May 25, 2015, 03:18:26 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150524_100655_zpshswnqttg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150524_100655_zpshswnqttg.jpg.html)
I got the base done for the run stand. I wanted it mobile so I but wheels that were originally ment for a 2000lb tool chest. I'm sure they can handle a full assembled engine. I painted white to protect the welds mostly because the angle iron ig galvanized steel. Next will be mocking the motor over it and making mounts that will fit both engines.
Still haven't figured out what the engine on wire from the alternator is for...oopen to input.
Post by: LTZ C20 on May 27, 2015, 12:45:38 AM
Post by: frotosride on May 31, 2015, 06:06:59 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150531_185607_zpsyu9j4oze.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150531_185607_zpsyu9j4oze.jpg.html)
Post by: LTZ C20 on May 31, 2015, 06:59:23 PM
Post by: frotosride on June 01, 2015, 09:47:05 PM
One mount almost done. This shows why I keep stuff. I just gotta find one more engine side of the old style SBC mount. Plan on fabing up the other one tomorrow.
Post by: frotosride on June 01, 2015, 09:48:53 PM
Post by: frotosride on June 15, 2015, 06:25:14 PM
Also got this from someone's trash pile. I plan on using the tank for my prelube tank prior to running the engine on the stand.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_143509_zpscju6ficj.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_143509_zpscju6ficj.jpg.html)
Post by: LTZ C20 on June 15, 2015, 09:41:41 PM
Post by: frotosride on June 17, 2015, 08:02:44 PM
On the left is a mount from a 90's pickup. On the right is from a 95 express van. So I modifies the one from the van.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_181329_zpsej1mukfh.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_181329_zpsej1mukfh.jpg.html)
And next is first mockup...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_193038_zpsndpmvdwu.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150617_193038_zpsndpmvdwu.jpg.html)
I also soldered I'm the IAC and TPS pigtails from the salvage yard. Harness isn't wrapped yet because I'm not making that mistake until I lay it out in the truck. But is should be good to go as soon as I finish the run stand.
Post by: frotosride on June 18, 2015, 03:51:01 PM
Does anyone know if it will swap into the driver side tank?
Post by: frotosride on June 21, 2015, 09:04:14 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191206_zps09vq3p5y.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_191206_zps09vq3p5y.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_200412_zpsugzvuht7.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150621_200412_zpsugzvuht7.jpg.html)
Got the run stand done. Just gotta finish the prelube tank, fuel system and I'm gonna use an old cooler for my radiator for now plus it will give me an idea of what the cooling system looks like.
Post by: frotosride on June 21, 2015, 09:10:13 PM
Post by: FlatBlack77 on June 22, 2015, 05:35:17 PM
Post by: frotosride on June 27, 2015, 07:36:49 PM
Every project here has gotten to this point at some time or another...often many times! FUNDING!! Yup this is the new pay check for OLD BLUE. It's a sentra spec v with horable excuses for engine mounts. Out of the 4 I'm going to turn the two on the driver side and passenger side into solid mounts. The current owner had problems getting all the mounts to lign up when he replaced them and worse yet he drove it several thousand miles like that. I have got all the new/old mounts aligned and bolted down except one bolt which he lost two but I had one on hand. Any idea what I should charge for my time? I will likely be replacing the struts on all four corners and adjusting the clutch switch as well.
Post by: frotosride on August 31, 2015, 09:08:52 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20150831_215454.png_zps2zgzkgrx.jpeg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/20150831_215454.png_zps2zgzkgrx.jpeg.html)
I went with -6an line and fittings, hard line to -6 conversions one fuel filter and two fuel check valves. As I said before I will be bypassing the supply lines through the fuel tank selector but retaining the return line functions.
Post by: frotosride on August 31, 2015, 09:13:46 PM
Post by: frotosride on September 06, 2015, 04:35:00 PM
Finally got some gauges. My control panel is ready. Now I'm just tapping some new plugs to pull oil pressure and coolant temp. Fuel will be easy because the -6 'T' fitting has 1/8 not gauge port. I only have about $65 in the whole panel and hopefully these cheap gauges hold up.
Post by: Captkaos on September 08, 2015, 10:53:44 AM
Post by: frotosride on September 13, 2015, 07:50:53 PM
Post by: frotosride on September 16, 2015, 06:54:16 PM
Pre lube tank is complete. The inside of the tank is cited with an enamel engine paint that I've used on large diesels for a while now and it withstands oil and diesel f el well. I will add a simple filter inline before the oil enters the block.
I disassembled the engine more in preparation for replacing some gaskets and found that my timing cover has a small crack in it so I will be b ying a new one. Does anyone know if a cover for an LS1 will fit without clearance issues. They look the same externally. Summit has one for the 5.7l LS1 for $27. So that's what I will get if it will bolt right up.
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 16, 2015, 08:36:56 PM
Post by: frotosride on September 17, 2015, 02:55:40 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 18, 2015, 01:58:38 PM
Post by: frotosride on September 21, 2015, 08:50:48 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 22, 2015, 01:36:37 PM
Post by: frotosride on September 27, 2015, 09:02:11 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 28, 2015, 01:02:05 AM
Post by: frotosride on September 30, 2015, 02:23:06 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on September 30, 2015, 08:50:44 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 08, 2016, 09:00:12 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 08, 2016, 09:12:52 PM
My youngest son and I did a little cleaning and prep. He removed all the could packs and we found the tip to number 1 cylinder broke. It's just the insulator that is broke so hopefully with the wire shroud in it there won't be any scatter to the valve cover.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160208_201811_zpsqqwy7i19.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160208_201811_zpsqqwy7i19.jpg.html)
I just finished modifying the old sending unit to accept -6 an fittings and line. I also got the filler pipe and valve welder to the prelube tank yesterday. I'm going to mock up the fuel system in a bucket to test the crap looking hose clamps that came with the pump. Then exhaust gaskets, prelube and fire up. I will get a video of start up until edited so if there 8s a problem maybe it will help someone else to not make the same mistake.
Post by: frotosride on February 09, 2016, 06:12:32 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140517_zpssawnoivk.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_140517_zpssawnoivk.jpg.html) Got fuel system set up. This is the exact system that will run in the truck plus another tank. The 'T' fitting has an 1/8" port for a Guage fitting that's almost worthless. The plug sits so low in the 'T' fitting that it's sure to block flow and if you use a standard fitting it will almost completely block flow soo...
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_181338_zpsxi3isvjw.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_181338_zpsxi3isvjw.jpg.html)
I modified it!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_184436_zpssgueaoss.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160209_184436_zpssgueaoss.jpg.html)
Post by: frotosride on February 10, 2016, 04:07:19 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160210_153209_zpsn8wrje7o.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160210_153209_zpsn8wrje7o.mp4)
Once I figured out that it wasn't the hoses leaking on the 'T' fitting I just took it out and bam...it's good to go!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160210_154944_zpsocigabjh.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160210_154944_zpsocigabjh.mp4)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 10, 2016, 10:29:32 PM
Post by: Irish_Alley on February 11, 2016, 07:22:25 AM
Post by: frotosride on February 11, 2016, 11:56:14 AM
Post by: Irish_Alley on February 11, 2016, 12:24:53 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 12, 2016, 02:25:51 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 14, 2016, 05:05:14 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 14, 2016, 07:19:32 PM
Post by: 1967KaiserM715 on February 14, 2016, 07:58:34 PM
Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 14, 2016, 09:03:15 PM
If your using Tapatalk, you have to follow link, not open in galleryThat fixed it.
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Post by: LTZ C20 on February 14, 2016, 09:14:04 PM
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
Post by: frotosride on February 15, 2016, 08:33:12 PM
Two best parts of those videos,Rebuttal:
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
1) A random butcher knife is an essential tool for any shop!
2) With 4 kids one of them has to be behind on technology and that wasn't sasss... It was inquisitiveness!
Post by: frotosride on February 15, 2016, 08:38:31 PM
It ran flawlessly! I had no real issues except two small fuel leaks. One was the metco adapter, and the other was the quage line adapter, both just needed half a grunt more torque Nd all is well. I got videos of perlube and two start ups plus an extra for voltage checks to ensure that alternator is doing its job. I'm get ng to upload them now so maybe sometime tomorrow night I will post them for your entertainment and criticism, whatever need be!
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 16, 2016, 12:49:03 AM
Counter rebuttal:Two best parts of those videos,Rebuttal:
1) the butcher knife just chillin out on the gas tank and
2) the voice off camera at the end that says with a small amount of sass, "who are you talking too?". That made me laugh out loud.
1) A random butcher knife is an essential tool for any shop!
2) With 4 kids one of them has to be behind on technology and that wasn't sasss... It was inquisitiveness!
1) I will admit, among the saw blades, razor blades, pocket knifes, serrated and sharpened, pointy and high speed spinning objects I have in the garage, a butcher knife is not among them.
2) 4 kids! Man you have your hands full! I suspected sass because it had a similar tone that my girlfriend uses when she doesn't know what I'm doing. And that girl can be sassy as heck when she wants to! I do love her tho, she is supportive. I'm sure one day I will be blessed with the joy of fatherhood.
Post by: frotosride on February 16, 2016, 05:24:51 AM
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
Post by: frotosride on February 16, 2016, 06:50:12 AM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_165636_zpsamxiiuts.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_165636_zpsamxiiuts.mp4)
And I got power!!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_172013_zpsz4pjs8zs.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_172013_zpsz4pjs8zs.mp4)
Post by: frotosride on February 16, 2016, 09:00:43 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 16, 2016, 09:42:03 PM
Get you a big Knife... and good luck with having kids at some point, don't rush it.All you did here was show off that super nice air compressor you have. You didn't even run the "stupid thing". Hahaha
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 16, 2016, 09:54:46 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 17, 2016, 07:58:40 PM
I didn't realize that the whole idea didn't upload. I didn't run the compressor bc it seemed like it would burst in flames if I tried again. 8 did run the engine in this video it just cut off a minuet and a half.Get you a big Knife... and good luck with having kids at some point, don't rush it.All you did here was show off that super nice air compressor you have. You didn't even run the "stupid thing". Hahaha
Now for what you've all been waiting for.
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/th_20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.jpg) (http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/20160215_155521_zpsdoehk84s.mp4)
The videos were good. It runs good. Open manifolds or open headers are extremely loud. Fun for about an hour, then annoying. I was wondering if I would have to say anything but I'm glad you guys moved the gas away from the hot exhaust pipes haha. That and you called yourself a retard haha, that was funny too.I don't know why I left the gas there but at least I caught it b4 I ran 8t anymore. I'm gonna see if I can get the whole video to load for the actual first run..
I got some fittings for my temp Guage and steam port so next is a radiator and more run time before I tear it down.
Post by: frotosride on February 20, 2016, 11:24:45 AM
Post by: frotosride on February 20, 2016, 11:26:33 AM
Post by: frotosride on February 23, 2016, 06:17:39 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 23, 2016, 10:34:57 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 29, 2016, 06:50:52 PM
103,000 miles and still looking like a slightly dirty baby..
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192530_zpshqoseu9y.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160229_192530_zpshqoseu9y.jpg.html)
Look at that cross hatch!
Post by: frotosride on March 13, 2016, 09:02:46 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 13, 2016, 09:10:30 PM
Engine is stripped and looking good!
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111522_zpsu54mtjsa.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111522_zpsu54mtjsa.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111507_zpszt6bzclo.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111507_zpszt6bzclo.jpg.html)(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111458_zpsnnpt2xgc.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160312_111458_zpsnnpt2xgc.jpg.html)
Bearings all look good. No real issues including con rods. That's a relief!
Post by: frotosride on March 13, 2016, 09:13:39 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_225001_zpsbh72lfn1.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160307_225001_zpsbh72lfn1.jpg.html)
Not the safest but it's what I had to work with. After this we lifted the 5.3 off my buddies flat bed for his jeep project that I got hooked into..I don't really mind though
Post by: frotosride on March 15, 2016, 07:24:48 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_164838_zps0pfr1ug2.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160315_164838_zps0pfr1ug2.jpg.html)
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 16, 2016, 01:02:19 AM
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 16, 2016, 11:14:14 AM
e3???I wasn't going to say anything but now that you did. Unless your creating over 800 hp and drag racing, no plug will serve you better for reliability and performance than the AC Delco plugs that are supposed to be in that engine. We have seen to many issues with non factory plugs causing issues on Vortec engines. Those E3's included.
Sorry to burst your bubble but that's just the way it is. Nothing works better than Delco. If the design and engineering of E3's was that great, why isn't GM using a principle in all of their high performance engines like the 650 hp supercharged 6.2L in the ZR1 Corvette's or the 427 in the ZL1 Camaro's or any of the crate engines?
Post by: SomeTexan on March 16, 2016, 01:03:27 PM
e3???I wasn't going to say anything but now that you did. Unless your creating over 800 hp and drag racing, no plug will serve you better for reliability and performance than the AC Delco plugs that are supposed to be in that engine. We have seen to many issues with non factory plugs causing issues on Vortec engines. Those E3's included.
Sorry to burst your bubble but that's just the way it is. Nothing works better than Delco. If the design and engineering of E3's was that great, why isn't GM using a principle in all of their high performance engines like the 650 hp supercharged 6.2L in the ZR1 Corvette's or the 427 in the ZL1 Camaro's or any of the crate engines?
I agree almost 100%. My findings on a dyno show losses from them even with high performance builds. Same with the splitfire junk and all the extra electrode trash on the market. It's just hype to steal your money.
If you are basically stock, use stock plugs. If you are built and making some power, NGK's usually do the best. Either way, don't fall for the weird electrode hype, all it does is shield the spark more and cause more problems. On an engine dyno with E3's, I had to pull 4 degrees of timing and drop 6lbs of boost to avoid predetonation compared to NGK's. Almost a 200hp loss at best, I tried different heat ranges as well. It also kept throwing codes for coil problems.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 16, 2016, 02:18:54 PM
Post by: Irish_Alley on March 16, 2016, 03:20:37 PM
one of the lines i used to use while selling splitfire was "it has two electrodes, so that when one gets burnt up the spark would jump to the other. cause electric follows the path of lease resistance" then of course the little pack of spark plug anti seize. we would be rewarded to sell 20/week and who ever sold the most got another reward
Post by: frotosride on March 16, 2016, 10:54:34 PM
i remember selling them at autozone, we would get "rewards" if we sold certain things. they also used secret shoppers, if we didnt offer the products, said the greeting right, didnt offer to put the part on hold or offer the products how they wanted them to be offered we would be reprimanded in the next meeting. if we did everything the way they wanted then we would get a $20 gift card.I knew it...
one of the lines i used to use while selling splitfire was "it has two electrodes, so that when one gets burnt up the spark would jump to the other. cause electric follows the path of lease resistance" then of course the little pack of spark plug anti seize. we would be rewarded to sell 20/week and who ever sold the most got another reward
As far as the E3's I've already de used to send them back and get delcos! I know better but I guess I wanted to prove it to myself at first. I'm over that. I was over it when I opened one and looked at it for the first time . I got the rest of the shipment in an I will post pics when I get a chance. Next is a ball hone cleaning and assembly! But before the swap I gotta replace the fork seals on the bike so it can be a daily driver while the aid plow is down.
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 17, 2016, 03:16:07 PM
Post by: rumblebox on March 17, 2016, 08:43:10 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2016, 08:48:06 PM
The 03-06 had LQ9. 02 had the LQ4.'02 is when the heads went from cast iron to aluminum. The LQ9 and LQ4 were offered in '02 and up specific "high end" vehicles like escalades also SS Silverado and other "Vortex Max" trucks starting in '03.
Post by: rumblebox on March 19, 2016, 08:49:21 PM
The 03-06 had LQ9. 02 had the LQ4.'02 is when the heads went from cast iron to aluminum. The LQ9 and LQ4 were offered in '02 and up specific "high end" vehicles like escalades also SS Silverado and other "Vortex Max" trucks starting in '03.
Wrong. The 99-00 LQ4 was the only gen3 to ever have iron heads. 01+ are all aluminum-headed.
01-02 Denalis and Escalades had the LQ4
The LQ9 didnt exist until the 03 model year SS, denali, escalade, and 04-06 VHO/VMAX trucks.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2016, 08:59:00 PM
It's alright. We all get learned once in a while.Well they are packed and ready to ship! Unfortunately, so are my pistons as well. As everyone should do, I was inspecting my new parts and noticed a Nick just below the #2 ringland one one piston. Doesn't sound to bad but it put a crown in the ring land and we all knows that won't work.
I'm in the parts cleaning process now and stripping the block. The machine shop wants $130 to hot tank the block.. Looks like I fixed my pressure washer just in time. Also $355 to balance. I may have to bite the bullet on that one!
Anyone in the South East GA or North Florida area know or a reputable machine shop that may rival my current pricing?
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2016, 09:01:04 PM
I am glad you can Google though!
Post by: rumblebox on March 19, 2016, 09:10:50 PM
Either way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now. And yes, the pistons and cam are the only difference. Same 317 heads.
I am glad you can Google though!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2016, 09:14:28 PM
This one is originally DBW but I had to switch to connect my TV cable until I get my 4l80e or 6l80eEither way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now.
I am glad you can Google though!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Post by: rumblebox on March 19, 2016, 09:17:41 PM
https://youtu.be/aI7LONdWc6E
https://youtu.be/jnA9mVUywFI
The cam was really too big for the 9.4:1 compression, but the 4500 stall made up for it. I eventually switched to LS3 heads/intake with a smaller cam.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Post by: rumblebox on March 19, 2016, 09:20:14 PM
If you can adapt to DBW, it's easier to tune and control torque tip-in(if necessary).This one is originally DBW but I had to switch to connect my TV cable until I get my 4l80e or 6l80eEither way it's an LQ4 out of an '03 denali vine 'U' and if you looked at the pics the pistons give it away!No googling necessary here. the LS motors are my first love, and I've never personally seen an LQ4 in an 03 Denali. I have seen exceptions of LQ9's in 2002s with cable throttle bodies, but not the other way around until now.
I am glad you can Google though!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Post by: frotosride on March 19, 2016, 09:25:58 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 21, 2016, 08:58:57 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160321_191255_zpsszvvruky.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160321_191255_zpsszvvruky.jpg.html)
Post by: LTZ C20 on March 21, 2016, 09:48:28 PM
Post by: frotosride on March 22, 2016, 09:17:55 PM
Proof is in the shinny stuff... all I did was pull these out and wipe them down..
Post by: frotosride on April 04, 2016, 08:25:09 PM
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232325_zpsm0k1xy9t.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232325_zpsm0k1xy9t.jpg.html)
(http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/b527/frotosride1/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232416_zpsx1yfn5cg.jpg) (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/frotosride1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160329_232416_zpsx1yfn5cg.jpg.html)
Post by: frotosride on May 01, 2016, 03:30:24 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 01, 2017, 05:10:46 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 01, 2017, 05:11:59 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 01, 2017, 05:18:07 PM
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 01, 2017, 10:54:21 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 07, 2017, 06:33:19 AM
Post by: Captkaos on February 07, 2017, 01:28:39 PM
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 07, 2017, 01:59:27 PM
Post by: Captkaos on February 07, 2017, 04:46:10 PM
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
Post by: frotosride on February 08, 2017, 09:41:16 AM
If you want here is how to shave a truck intake
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.
I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.
Post by: frotosride on February 09, 2017, 07:09:12 AM
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 11, 2017, 12:03:07 AM
lol oh cool.If you want here is how to shave a truck intake
https://youtu.be/cg9bc2vJL9A
Chris Lucas
73-87chevytrucks.com
squarebody.biz
I've seen a few of these and thought about it but as of now I plan on running all the factory covers since I do have them. It may change later down the road but I doubt it because I do not feel like doing all that work on top of wanting the newer ls3 style heads at some point.I wouldn't have thought to paint the intake but since you did, it makes the whole thing look great.It was a shot in the dark for me as well. the intake looks a lot shiner than it actually is. I uses a high build sandable primer so most of the actual texture is covered up but in person it truly looks cast aluminum. I'm working on an exhaust for the runstand right now so I can hear the engine and hopefully appease my neighbors and surrounding communities.
Post by: LTZ C20 on February 11, 2017, 12:03:36 AM
So I pulled all the covers out of the attic last night. I doubt I will be using all three of them if any at all. they just cover up so much and may block any possible problems. We will have to see when the engine is sitting under the hood.which covers do you have?
Post by: roundhouse on February 13, 2017, 06:58:48 AM
Used an ID plate I scavenged from a old coal power plant to cover up where i shaved off the box on the stock air intake tube
Don't have any pics of the fuel rail flip
You have to use a sawzall and a dremel to remove a few tabs on the intake
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170213/f082f6b1fb2e0ed4fb22a72aa6e147c0.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on December 19, 2020, 09:29:33 PM
**I found a way to post pics but can only load 1000 pics as of now unless i pay, which i may do. Until I make up my mind on that I will keep the google photos up to date. also there will be several photos there for my memory purposes and your reference...Enjoy! ;D
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7
Post by: frotosride on December 19, 2020, 10:03:20 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764394038_a8013c5328_m.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on December 21, 2020, 09:11:22 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765124271_802fe21b26_c.jpg)
Next was labeling the wiring. Most people hate this part but it's kinda relaxing to me. Plus I have to actually use m,y brain to remember what is what. I know this harness and the LS harness like I should know God's word (something in progress as well).
The only one I got hung up on was actually wrapped up in the harness. I think it was the original Smog pump wiring that I tucked away many years ago.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765124336_69cc6e667b_c.jpg)
Looking at the bulkhead connector it seems like I may have had some resistance issues!? I haven't actually inspected it thoroughly because I was summoned to get in the house.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239407_f3a13fba76_c.jpg)
I have unwrapped all the needed wiring in the engine bay and disconnected the fuse box bulkhead connector. Next will be unpinning the power supply wires from the bulkhead connector (that power the ECM, sensors and coil), dismounting the ECM, and pulling all wiring through the firewall. I intend on putting the LQ4 PCM in the OEM location and have modified the harness to do so. My harness doesn't meet my quality standards but it is perfectly functional. I may just wrap it and keep it...or I may buy one that looks more awesomer! And just keep this as a run-stand only harness.
Post by: frotosride on December 23, 2020, 03:24:34 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764477193_5b06337888_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765324077_d9c6ec8d0d_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765324057_7e2c066c7a_c.jpg)
So where is all the oil coming from that's coating the top of the transmission, and driverside of the block... A little from the valve cover and oil fill cap. The oil pressure switch piping beside the Distributor has been leaking for years. Funny this same location for leaks has kicked my but on meny GM engines (any LS).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764393788_759ef238ba_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on December 23, 2020, 03:28:42 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765323632_55aeae3488_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765208771_648cf9dd79_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on December 23, 2020, 08:17:24 PM
I'm not keeping anything except the Key on power to the coil. I had though about using the OE fuel pump relay until i truly thought about it and realized that the relay doesn't see power at all times while the fuel pump is running. I do still like the thought of the oil pressure switch safety circuit. Not sure if I will make a way for something like that to function. So a newer style fuel pump relay will take it's place. Either way I'm going to post a few pics of the harness and the link i posted earlier will have more in-depth pics. Also, I realized that what seemed like burned plastic inside the bulkhead connector was not a resistance issue and wires getting to hot. It is just the 33 year old sealer...!! that's good!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764505903_75a427891a_c.jpg)
Here is the harness unplugged from the ECM and still connected to the Bulkhead connector for the fusebox. To the far left are the ECM connections and VSS connector then the firewall grommet and the rest of the harness.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764505918_6d09ab6636_m.jpg)
Here's what the Bulkhead connector looks like with all the TBI connections removed.
Post by: frotosride on December 23, 2020, 08:24:32 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764450558_9b353f289c_c.jpg)
Post by: VileZambonie on December 24, 2020, 05:24:52 AM
Post by: frotosride on December 24, 2020, 12:19:20 PM
Are you posting pics? If so I do not see them.Dang.. I don't understand why I cannot get the links to work! When I do the preview it works fine and I see them as well. I'll figure it out somehow thanks Mr. Zambonie.. Oh and I'm liking your conservative choice of cams and LSA! ;)
Post by: frotosride on December 25, 2020, 10:48:37 PM
What I accomplished yesterday... Since i seem to go fast and never take the time to clean up and then put things up so well I cannot find them again, I fullty assembled the TBI 350 I took out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239082_0f093cae55_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764393123_10decac690_c.jpg)
Had to figure out how to drain the trans and start inspecting it. To be honest, I have neglected this thing from day one. It has about 50k miles on this ATF and filter. But with that said.. all looks good. No huge chunks of clutch material or metal on the magnet. So what's the plan? Well build it and upgrade as strong as I am willing to afford. Transmissions are my favorite tings to rebuild, especially automatics!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765239027_325afb762c_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50765123706_31d35968f2_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764392928_94400a26c7_m.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on December 26, 2020, 10:22:44 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50764392873_222e5cfc26_c.jpg)
Post by: Mr Diesel on December 26, 2020, 10:55:21 PM
Post by: frotosride on December 26, 2020, 10:59:16 PM
I see your most recent pic and your crossmember pic above.Awesome...I changed the crossmember to see if it would work as well. thanks for letting me know.
I'm going to try to change every Pic i posted in this thread and maybe a few more. either way I intend to keep the Google photos link active and up to date just incase I run out of Flickr space and do not want to pay for more.
Post by: frotosride on December 27, 2020, 05:49:42 PM
But I am not letting that slow progress. Started cleaning the NP208 in preps for cracking it open and rebuilding it. I have no real issues with the transfer case except that it was leaking from the seem, on the other hand it could have been the puke tube/vent. Either way here's some clean up pics. The second one is a little fuzzy.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50768700296_75b439e30a_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50767956688_6b5ca1510d_c.jpg)
Post by: Mike81K10 on December 27, 2020, 06:24:18 PM
Post by: frotosride on December 27, 2020, 09:22:36 PM
Your making good progress and wish I could build transmissions. Your pics are visible!
Funny thing.... I couldn't until I did... Food for thought!
Post by: VileZambonie on December 28, 2020, 07:05:17 AM
Post by: frotosride on December 28, 2020, 07:43:16 AM
Your pics are working now. So what trans are you going to run? If you're going to reseal the transfer case, keep in mind the 27/32 input spline differences. As far as rebuilding automatics, they can be a time and space suck, like me right now, I have to play the waiting game because of parts availability. I'm building a 4L80E and converting it to 4x4. There are many design changes so I had to drill the output shaft for the oiling holes, am stuck waiting for sprags and torrington bearings. Shipping is taking forever right now, and it's eating up real estate while I wait for parts. If you have the time and space, it's a good feeling to build your own but I agree on the cost/time factor with the hard parts upgrades.Pics...pain in my but apparently...i just had to host them somewhere different than i usually did.
My ultimate trans for this is a built 6l80E without any of that dang apply piston PWM (easy to mechanically program out). I have two NP205's that would ge a twin stock and a 203 for a doubler as well (these are my free collected parts over the last 2 years). Either way the issue is as always $$. I can feasibly afford to do the trans. The two problems are the other adapters and drive shafts. The last swap I did was an '88 yj. Went from sbc400/350/205 to 5.3l/sm465/205(twin stick). The cost of driveshafts even with the cardan joints we gave them was almost $1500. Between Novak, ORD and advanced adapters any combination you could want is possible these days.
Aside from that i'm not planning on doing anything real serious with this truck because of it's sentimental value to my wife I cannot destroy it. With that being said I cannot justify all that money for a 4 0r 6l80 swap (right now). So I will be sticking with the 700r4. I know this trans had huge potential if built right so that isn't a concern for me. the best part is most of the upgrades are GM supported (4l60/4l60e/4l65e) like 5 pinion planets, 13 vane pump rotor, hardened shafts, etc... Then with Sonnax..Dang son, you can build to the moon. At this point my parts cost is $1236.22, this price is what I conside minor upgrades. I'm not doing any upgraded input/output housings, hardened shafts or gear ration changes.
Post by: frotosride on December 30, 2020, 12:59:45 PM
https://youtu.be/-Cy4Zl-Lmeo (https://youtu.be/-Cy4Zl-Lmeo)
I ended the video but left the engine running because it it finally trying to idle. I have started it about 4-5 times and adjusted the idle to get it to this point. One of my main goals is to verify that at least fan 1 that is programmed to blue pin #42 came on and at the right temp. It's not viewed in this video but it worked the way it's supposed to work. So far I had two issues. First was completely my fault. I melted my ground wire a little bit on the exhaust but nothing is completly bare (I don't think so). The second is the vent plug on the rear of the drivers side head. Easy fix...when it's not in the truck! Stay tuned there will be more to come and be gentle on me with this youtube thing. these are my first uploads ever. I did figure out the tach signal. It was (still is) a loose crimp where my resistor does a cheap amplification of the signal so the tach can actually sense it.
https://youtu.be/_BSoEnSo4N8 (https://youtu.be/_BSoEnSo4N8)
Post by: frotosride on December 30, 2020, 09:35:09 PM
https://youtu.be/3vNl8IQJR1g (https://youtu.be/3vNl8IQJR1g)
As you can see at least one objective was met. The camera doesn't do the engine and hand fabricated exhaust justice. IT's LOUD!
Post by: frotosride on December 31, 2020, 02:12:12 PM
I did fix the leak from the coolant block off plate on the rear of the head. I replaced the aluminum rubber impregnated gasket with an o-ring. This will likely happen to the other 3 because the sealing is much better.
If there is anything anyone wants to see just let me know and I'll record it.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu5GY0wFuQHGAqdqz0w6PSA (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCu5GY0wFuQHGAqdqz0w6PSA)
I've modified this several times for anyone who noticed.. I'm trying to figure out how some people embed videos...
Post by: frotosride on January 01, 2021, 05:24:13 PM
The second video however, is after everything is fixed. I reset for the original video and accomplished what I set out to show everyone. Hopefully this helps someone, somewhere.
https://youtu.be/mWow-fculDQ (https://youtu.be/mWow-fculDQ)
https://youtu.be/xhm1c2unXMg (https://youtu.be/xhm1c2unXMg)
Post by: frotosride on January 06, 2021, 07:58:47 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908411_7582379a3f_c.jpg)
Also prepped the frame rails for the crossmember and engine mount plates. I do plan on doing the rest of the rails but I wanted to get the crossmember in and leave it in so I did enough of the rails to accomplish that. I did all of this Monday and Tuesday night. I really like the way the crossmember fits. Next is mock-up of the engine...
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808165933_6c0b063bfa_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 06, 2021, 08:04:37 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808166353_39c6c22d10_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023727_1d907e8a71_c.jpg)
That'll do..much better I think.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023697_0b0547c726_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 06, 2021, 08:23:16 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50809023322_9774a52a16_c.jpg)
Here it what they looked like when I first put the engine in. The inserts expand the metal housings a good bit by design. It is no simple task getting them to lineup and bolt down, especially by yourself! Unfortunately I messed up my paint trying to get them to this point...what a pain!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908041_c3b8faf79f_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908091_9fa9cb708b_c.jpg)
It took some doing and thinking but the first mock-up is well on it's way. I tested the stock manifolds and I have pics if anyone is interested in seeing them. They actually fit rather well. The only contact is the shift rod right at the frame rail. I only mocked them up because the shorty center dump headers I bought years ago for this swap will not work. I have ditched them as an idea because I just bought Schoenfeld Headers 1302LS1 today and v-band clamps. I'm not sure if I should put some flex tubes in or not. I also got a new Griffin radiator and the AN to hard line fittings for the fuel lines up to the rail. I have decided that since I replaced the tank selector and used braided stainless EFI rated hose from tank to OE filter (I'll try and remember to post pics of this), I'm going to test it's rated pressure.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50808908136_083dd2e418_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 14, 2021, 02:30:56 PM
Aside from that, I have pulled every pin from the PCM connectors and broke the harness down into individual sensors, injector/coil banks, etc.. and started wrapping them with this loom I got off Amazon. It appears like a woven cloth loom but it's also heat shrink. So far I really like the way it looks plus my heat gun puts out 1800* and it doesn't melt instantly when I try. ;D I will upload pics when I bring my camera device in to upload.
I will also load pics of the exploded NP208 that I started tearing down. There isn't any obvious wear inside the case so that's good. One huge issue (to me, maybe not others) is the replacement bearings in the kit I bought. All of the needle bearings are right as far as will they fit and work. The issue I have are the plastic casings/retainers...! Why in the world does anyone even make those! The worst part of this plastic casing/keeper design is the two main input shaft bearings have 1/2 the amount of bearings inside the bearing case because the other half is replaced by a plastic retainer. I will not put these in my transfer case. So I bought another Kit that I was assured had no plastic casing/retainers. We'll see when it gets here.
The two in the back are the input shaft bearings.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836034676_fe774bd437_m.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 14, 2021, 03:32:42 PM
The beginning of the plan.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223797_51d783c777_c.jpg)
The wiring explosion..spaghetti
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836142001_575a1249b5_c.jpg)
Here is the first mock-up with individual runs for injector/coil banks and other sensors. Once I get the PCM and Fusebox mounted I will finalize the looming process. You can barely see the Loom unless you know what to look for, that's what I like!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836273792_0c2e101485_m.jpg)
The LOOM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141991_35d81e819f_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 14, 2021, 03:44:07 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223512_1ff619701d_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835414273_abab521988_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223502_b04b56fcda_m.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835431078_c088920d79_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 14, 2021, 04:02:57 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141911_6c8c359d90_c.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141961_904633ee27_c.jpg)
Ford case half empty and ready to clean up stress risers (can't help myself) and cleaning.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835414003_bb5cdde37c_c.jpg)
Maganet ain't too bad.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836223617_0a46ef70a9_c.jpg)
The gear housing has a few bad threads..probably replace this.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50835413978_3919785ba0_c.jpg)
I'm not sure if the minor damage on the driven gear speedo shaft input is deep enough to cause a problem but for $10 it's worth not going back in the case and potentially damaging an oring.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50836141826_ee20a6e8d3_c.jpg)
Post by: VileZambonie on January 20, 2021, 06:30:08 PM
Post by: frotosride on January 25, 2021, 07:50:26 AM
So annoying staring at parts on the bench waiting! Are you going to ceramic coat those headers?Amen to that! I'm not sure if I'm going to ceramic coat them or try VHT flame proof paint. I've used it in the past on small engines and had decent results. Honestly, I've never ceramic coated anything and not sure where to go to get it done, if I can do it myself (my Definately go to option) and most importantly cost!
I do know that I will not leave them bare/temporary paint that's already on them. I want them to last. I couldn't care less about what color they end up being.
* update on the transfer case... Well in my frustration and poor lighting I jumped the gun and bought a new kit. Ultimately I lost money because the kits are exactly the same. With that being said I have to correct my earlier statement about plastic bearing retaining cages. They are a kolene steel retainer and they were updated to decrease drag an the potential binding of a full needle bearing race!
Yes I could return one of them but it was my mistake and as a God fearing Christian I cannot justify sending one of them back because of my inability to pay attention. Either way the NP208 is on the back burner because it's the 3rd to last piece of the drive train and wiring is what's on the chopping block for now. I will post pics and update that when I get a chance. Plan on making progress in that area today after I help some friends with their vehicles. One is a Kia that was hit and the other is an '85 short box that hasn't had any real maintenance done to it since the early 90's.
Post by: frotosride on January 25, 2021, 06:48:47 PM
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7 (https://photos.app.goo.gl/ceiXHQHm2d381iEb7)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 07:42:05 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396482_9e1f713966_c.jpg)
Here is 90% of the harness loomed and mocked up. I still have all the PCM gtounds hanging off the alternator. Making a good ground is crucial and I didn't want to just drill into the frame or firewall. Also you will notice that the PCM isn't in the cab as I mentioned earlier. I found a suitable home for it and kept the harness long enough to put it in the cab if I ever free up room.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265816_1752bbc68c_c.jpg)
Originally I only planned on using one relay fused relay box however things got out of hand and I ended up with two. The up side to this is all the under hood relays that I used and mounted to random (but functional) places are in a nice and secure location. Inside are (2) separate fan relays controlled by the PCM to turn off and on at different engine temps, A fuel pump relay, high and low beam relays and a few Ignition1 switching power relays. I also attached a fuse to the Tach signal amplifier in the second fused relay box. These relay boxes were relatively inexpensive and they came with all the terminal ends for each relay and ATO fuse giving me many options!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576568_b3188c89dd_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 07:43:53 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576513_53a5045377_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 07:55:10 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265771_dec770e471_c.jpg)
While the engine is out it's time to investigate the rust hole below the fuse box. Aside from the two pics below there is a large hole below the grommet that the vacuum line and OE cruise control harness enters the cab.
drivers floor board
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396427_08a59145de_m.jpg)
Drivers Kick panel
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50912576463_588f5567db_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 08:08:00 PM
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913265731_e8a3d8ba4c_c.jpg)
I figured if I am only putting the engine in to make sure if fires and my wiring was good to go, why not put everything in I needed to do the exhaust as well. I bolted the transfer case back together (completely empty) and bolted it to the trans with the new trans mount from energy suspension.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50913396337_bcdb231266_c.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 08:15:58 PM
It started with open headers, no water and no alternator so I didn't run it for long. To be completely honest, the first time it fired up you hear it turn right back off and I said 'it scared me' well.... it scared me when it roared to life and I immediately turned the key off!! laugh if you must... I know I did
https://youtu.be/5dII3BJv8Mw (https://youtu.be/5dII3BJv8Mw)
Post by: frotosride on February 05, 2021, 08:33:34 PM
Post by: VileZambonie on February 07, 2021, 07:20:35 AM
Post by: frotosride on February 11, 2021, 11:12:58 AM
Use a dual exhaust crossmember for added clearance. PS the Delphi weather pack and metri-pack kits are a must have.
If this were a 2wd I could see using the dual exhaust crossmember. I cannot see the benefit in this application only less room to run more pipe. You know of one that will work with this and keep my passenger pipe above the frame rail?
Two things that drive me crazy are crappy connectors and open power supply buses like on a Polaris ATV. Weather pack are affordable especially when you consider the potential loss of major electronics...
Post by: bd on February 11, 2021, 01:24:26 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 11, 2021, 09:09:22 PM
Don't discount Deutsch, either, or the Amphenol compatibles/equivalents.
True, I for one do not like re pinning amphenols but they are sturdy and seal in some very harsh environments. The Deutsche are the same style as the Computer harness and are very nice I haven't ordered any for my projects for some reason....
Post by: frotosride on March 29, 2021, 06:29:13 PM
https://photos.app.goo.gl/X7shSG2ATV2x7zfX8
Post by: frotosride on April 29, 2021, 07:51:59 PM
https://youtu.be/_Bi758HTkJY
When/iGotta put the gears back in the transfer case, hook up the trans kick down cablefit the radiator, put the core support back in, put torque converter in. And tidy up the wiring
Post by: Mike81K10 on April 29, 2021, 09:17:49 PM
Post by: frotosride on April 30, 2021, 03:31:25 PM
Post by: frotosride on August 18, 2021, 06:41:57 PM
This one has mostly been time. So far I have rebuilt the transfer case. Including making a annulus bearing remover using the lathe and turning down a outer front wheel bearing race.
Engine and trans are back out for rust repair (this begins the snowball effect). Steering/Brake booster brace is removed.
Vintage air kit has fully arrived.
I'll post pics of everything when I figure out how to do it with my phone because I don't use any computers.
Post by: Shifty on August 19, 2021, 09:35:56 AM
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 02:28:59 PM
Let me know if ya'll think I should paint before final install.
I broke down and got out the old laptop...surprised it even works.
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 02:41:18 PM
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 03:24:01 PM
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 03:52:08 PM
The likely scenario will be removing it all the way across repairing the cowl and the firewall behind it as needed.
The last pic is the firewall behind the cowl cleaned up with a wire wheel on a grinder. Which reveals more holes...YAY :-[
I'm not sure if I will be cutting these out or just welding up the holes and dressing them down. This is mostly due to time... the first three patch panels I fabricated (just using simple hand tools, took several hours) factor into this equation.
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 04:21:41 PM
The pics for the compressor were thankfully though of before I took the engine and trans back out for rust repair. I do like the way the ICT Billet compressor brackets look and hold the compressor. I did run into the problem of having to find a new place for the PCM. This isn't really a big issue since my original plans were to put it in the cab and the new AC system should give me room. However, I am contemplating a more superior fuel management system and TERMINATE ( ;)) the OE system.
Current decision... to remove cab or not.
Pros:
1) Its hurricane season here in southeast Ga
2)The garage, though not cooled, is still more comfortable
3) I already have new body mounts so they are coming off anyway
4) More environment control for welding and painting.
Cons:
1) Taking the cab off
2) Bigger snowball, i.e. cab corners get mighty tempting!
Post by: Captkaos on August 19, 2021, 08:29:27 PM
Nice progress BTW!
Post by: frotosride on August 19, 2021, 08:46:38 PM
Post by: Shifty on August 20, 2021, 09:43:35 AM
Stay focused, and bring that baby back to life!
Post by: bd on August 20, 2021, 10:58:33 AM
It is easy to be distracted when you just have piles of parts laying around.. I am guilty of this...
Who isn't? ;D
As all of you noted, parts piles can grow in disarray to the point of being disruptive to progress, eventually making a project unconfrontable if only because of the sheer number of things to be done. And then there is the, "I'm sure I bought one of those! Where is it?" Staying focused and making steady progress as materials arrive in a planned and organized sequence is crucial to avoiding project anxiety and enjoying completion while one is still interested and able. If you have a spouse... Well... Let's just say a lot of time can be consumed explaining the delays....
So, take it from yet another who is guilty. ::)
I agree. Nice progress! Keep on truckin'. ;)
Post by: frotosride on November 04, 2021, 07:36:49 AM
I have fixed the firewall below the fuse box bulkhead connection. Also the few spots I found behind the cowl. There's still some grinding to dress down the welds and a few spot welds left.
The pic between the heater core penetrations and blower fan explains a lot about the water in the passenger floorboard and passenger kick panel rot. Didn't know that was there
.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/635a0d0817e5c873b8b8d371fa431581.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/3f865dc0720c2f1d95c15ab6c36ae061.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/5fa7c66e7db279d95767717b754a223e]
[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/8dc215dfcc85046c658376ca9ec3a49f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/32c1d890035e75d315296d4132ef761e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/a9d5accb7dae6f19cf90abc55ed4f5e1.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/49cc0313da2cca9e62b8e12adf1db5b7.jpg)
Sent from my motorola one 5G UW using Tapatalk
Post by: frotosride on November 04, 2021, 07:53:59 AM
The tool is amazing...the angle of cutter on the centering bit needs good pressure to cut and since it is spring loaded theses no straight through holes! I added a link for those in need
In the pic you can see my floorboard watering hole a lot better. And where the metal was to thin for my Miller Matic 211 to glue holes back together.
Blair 11096 Cutter Set, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XML5HK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211104/e6cc52840c5c2008568a2fe5136253c5.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on November 04, 2021, 09:31:42 PM
The plate would cover the whole outline. All old holes will be filled with patch panels. The only exception will be the huge hole for the a/c evaporator. I'm thinking a two piece panel that's removal for easy access to the back side of the air box. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/5b29e22c7889132b47a6e13e2d33f34f.jpg)
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Post by: Mike81K10 on November 04, 2021, 11:37:56 PM
Post by: frotosride on November 05, 2021, 04:38:40 AM
Hiding all these holes and drilling new ones seems criminal to me. I truly get the point of making a retrofit item that anyone can install.
To me it reminds me of old 90 "kit cars" where you get a can, glue some pieces to it and call it something it ain't.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211105/b68ad2c08bf2e3ee8148403e6cfbec53.jpg)
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Post by: Mike81K10 on November 06, 2021, 12:45:59 AM
Post by: frotosride on November 09, 2021, 06:55:33 AM
Post by: Mike81K10 on November 09, 2021, 06:12:45 PM
Post by: frotosride on November 13, 2021, 02:59:17 PM
Post by: 1980K20 on November 14, 2021, 04:21:00 PM
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Post by: frotosride on November 16, 2021, 01:06:28 PM
Post by: 1980K20 on November 17, 2021, 08:07:48 PM
Mark(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211118/02b7c8ebf9e1a8901a9098672e4dea04.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211118/e4bfca494e2d34ba7ebe5032457896b6.jpg)
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Post by: Mike81K10 on November 17, 2021, 10:13:09 PM
Post by: Shifty on November 18, 2021, 08:22:56 AM
Post by: frotosride on November 18, 2021, 12:07:38 PM
Post by: frotosride on December 07, 2021, 07:52:23 PM
Holley Terminator X Fuel Injection system is now on the shelf and awaiting it's debut...not sure when that time will come. ::)
Post by: frotosride on January 15, 2022, 04:39:20 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/d11b594bfce1c7f5f523b8aaf86f34d0.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/22da3509d248663d63af71a6e27574db.jpg)
Next is cowl repair. I decided not to recreate the seam between the box and cowl.
If there's any tips to give then it will be:
1) Cut out whatever has to go to get rid of bad metal.
2) Reshape your opening to make simple shapes. This makes it easier to fabricate patch panels.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/4625b617b8ee21540970ab3859968a01.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/6322571788a5040ffbb6d86e86e4bc3a.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on January 15, 2022, 04:48:14 PM
Currently, only the air box for the fan is sealed with Seamor's rubberized truck bed coating. It was a hidden test and I like it so the inside of the cowl will be sealed the same way after removing the old seam sealer and some rust converter. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/0333d2361d45e2e5c08a93a510c59bc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/c407e86e00117e0b44ac282f6ff3b42a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220115/b7ca56d06c561cbfe837f3a6be08954b.jpg)
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Post by: 1980K20 on January 15, 2022, 11:01:06 PM
Mark
Post by: frotosride on January 22, 2022, 10:17:21 PM
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220123/59f4d6090fd779a3724ecf43975260c3.jpg)
Post by: frotosride on January 22, 2022, 11:22:32 PM
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Post by: 1980K20 on January 24, 2022, 09:24:40 PM
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Post by: frotosride on January 25, 2022, 11:41:54 AM
Nice progress. Someday I'll learn to weld as good.Let's be careful with the words we choose,"good" let's replace that with acceptable. And for those that do weld I'm an amazing grinder. ;D
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However, thank you! I just got motivation back to start working again and it's not easy. I think at this point I'm going to get the firewall good, put the engine in and get some miles on it. Will call them motivational miles. I'm going to need some motivation to want to do any more rust repair on anything at this point.
Post by: frotosride on January 25, 2022, 07:49:18 PM
*Up for debate is the blower fan hole...not sure it I'm going to make a removable plate or weld a patch in.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220126/8245b8fed45b22803bd8585d329889c8.jpg)
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Post by: JohnnyPopper on January 25, 2022, 11:22:02 PM
Post by: frotosride on January 26, 2022, 10:09:48 AM
Post by: Shifty on January 27, 2022, 08:28:12 AM
Use a lid from a large pickle jar............Leave the label! ;DDoes dill or sweet make a difference? ;D
Post by: frotosride on February 19, 2022, 05:49:25 PM
Got the brake/steering brace tacked back in. Also to help protect against corrosion I coded the back side of the brace and everything outside of the welding zone with the same Seymour's rubberized truck coating, prior to welding everything.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220219/a386f3aef4da1eec56b0c688e7dac6ed.jpg)
I also got more done on the firewall. Had some grinding to do some more tack welds some more pretty and up to do however, most of that's going to wait. I do plan on putting seam sealer in the cowl to make sure all my work doesn't go down the drain!(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20220219/3a9124d5385b8fcc262b05345eb662bb.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on November 19, 2022, 11:19:24 PM
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Post by: frotosride on November 19, 2022, 11:26:28 PM
FYI, it has already paid off. Not just in our bonding but also in tools! "Is there an easier way to do this", she asks... Then a new tool shows up. Got a hose crimper today.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221120/401c48b3d389dfa022b7d119204ddd40.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221120/d85f6d68a341b6c3b26bcbd7185d24cc.jpg)
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Post by: JohnnyPopper on November 20, 2022, 03:32:11 PM
Post by: VileZambonie on November 20, 2022, 05:49:13 PM
Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 12:45:46 PM
last I left y'all I needed to make the TBSS intake look a little better. Ended up in the same cast aluminum color as the other manifold. Added Holley fuel rails and Deatschwerks injectors...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/578020be39af07a05d4649f3f2510234.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/caf29b49abd61b253a063ea0ad6895fe.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/637fa9a42c794f8528de0ab19f7e8e4c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/4f231e6588fe01adf0c5bf5abc7ab7bb.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/368b25e4c1d1691ed33bb0c7e5bfb24b.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 12:50:58 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/cd61ea6f50861741c2f8dd967dce63cd.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/88bba7cb9ebe27972c785cade4046036.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/ce309da287d9e1f7c2a51af9810f0452.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/fac64f773db9d6365a9154fe7c464442.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/3ba2bec37ee0e7ed0ff0799761693819.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/2283c4693ee3ab534ddc41812ee4ca76.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 12:55:41 PM
Vintage Air condenser is in and a late 90's radiator are mounted and looking good.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/57dea6f4a9088df4986aedec752d2b95.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/e971d3331a3d4b41c1b0fdee3ac8b19e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/d681d4b1d4159c07d96659fe507e617c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/a407001814e16406dc3906338aec26d3.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/d0f71e6bed82735dac31613912a237c5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/ef29765624e559b0ff004ae9b6d1b444.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/c7a8f5cfffe879f67b9931fa2f50ecc8.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 01:06:59 PM
Found the quick connect hose barb for the back of the manifold for brakes (not pulling the trigger on hydro boost just yet, still have it but I'm fabed out for now) .
Lastly, the transfer-case is in, as of an hour ago.
Once the drive shafts are in I'll put trans fluid in everything and do the first fire up with the Holley.
From there a few I/O's to be wired, headlight buckets painted, and shift linkages.
*Speaking of shift linkage... Any suggestions for the trans. I really want to use a cable because the shoenfeld long tubes are a little tight on the OEM linkage. What length and adapter plates are the easiest, even off brands are welcome!!! Eyes cheap!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/21de0c8e17946f1c6af387751a11b14a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/adaa7a14afad04c396b7edffed81c03d.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/8971fb3bb540104e8b9a02752b315184.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/bbfe746ab9e7008cf1d98c20f96d8fd4.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230227/6aaa38b4f62539495dcc331833064777.jpg)
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Post by: JohnnyPopper on February 27, 2023, 01:31:58 PM
I'm finally getting back on my '80 C10- Feels Good!
Got you on the 'getting old' part...hard to get up off the creeper ::)
Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 09:14:37 PM
Got you on the 'getting old' part...hard to get up off the creeper ::)
I only use the creeper to push tools and large parts under the truck! Pro Tip... Don't lay on it, it's a trap!
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Post by: frotosride on February 27, 2023, 09:32:09 PM
Also got the intake routed. Just gotta fab up a mount and a box.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230228/38f1ed9d892080635e98600572d2cd0c.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230228/0362e67eb6086b8288fe8200e901d4a5.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230228/b241f1b7ee7e7f672495383565449743.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230228/fef06debaf6d5c7751a836e29531e35d.jpg)
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Post by: frotosride on March 27, 2023, 09:23:50 PM
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