73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks > Interior & Equipment

Courtesy light issue

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Jeff86inMS:
Okay, so the hound wire coming out ok the light socket goes to the headlight switch via the factory harness (bulk wire), so if I understand what you are saying, I should “splice” into the blk wire coming from the socket and connect the other end to the door jam switch.  That way, I can manually turn the light on with the headlight switch while inside the cab, OR the light would otherwise come on when the door is opened because the ground would be supplied.  Is that correct?

Thanks for the input!  I know this seems inconsequential to some, but I like things to work as they should.


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bd:

--- Quote from: bd on May 03, 2022, 11:34:52 AM ---...To address one of your earlier questions, the door jamb switch has two terminals.  The terminals are insulated from one another yet ground simultaneously when the door opens.  One terminal is for the ignition key warning buzzer.  The other terminal is for the door open courtesy lamp option when installed at the factory.  The left and right door jamb switches, when both are installed, are wired in parallel.  Only the left door jamb switch connects to the key warning buzzer circuit.

The headlamp switch grounds the courtesy lamp circuit (identified by the white wire connected to the switch) with full CCW rotation of the knob.  For the courtesy lamps to illuminate via the headlamp switch, the headlamp switch frame must be suitably grounded...

--- End quote ---


If you intend to work on the vehicle wiring you really should refer to the factory diagrams to become comfortable and familiar with them.  You have the right idea.  Run an 18-gauge white wire (to maintain consistency with the factory) from the unused terminal of the door jamb switch to the white wire connecting to the headlamp switch.  Voila!

Jeff86inMS:
Thanks BD
All of the wiring going to the headlight switch is in a wiring plug.  How do I connect the additional wire to that plug?  Or go I simply splice into that wire?

I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the wiring, but wiring diagrams are confusing at this point to me.  I can follow the wires on the diagram, but am finding it difficult to relate to the vehicle.  I am determined though and will keep at it.  Thanks again for your help!


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bd:
Method A:
Remove the white wire from the headlamp switch connector, cut off the existing terminal, and then crimp (using a dedicated electrical terminal crimper) and solder (using 60 Pb/40 Sn rosin core solder) a new terminal onto the end of the original and new wires combined together.  DO NOT TWIST the wires together before crimping!

Use the tool imaged below or substitute a thin blade screwdriver to release the terminal from the headlamp switch connector by slightly depressing the tab on the back of the terminal.  Each terminal cavity has a narrow channel exposed on the front of the connector for the purpose of inserting the tool.





Replace the terminal using a brass or “tinned” brass Packard 56 style terminal, imaged below.





The tools and terminals should be readily available from most auto parts stores.

Method B:
Inline splice the new white wire to the existing white wire that connects to the headlamp switch.

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