1974 Chevrolet Motorcycle Shop Custom Truck Build Long Bed Fleetside One Ton

[frotosride]

CAP, I didn't mean for that to sound as a bad thing. I fully understand the protection they provide and I would hate to be bombarded by scammers and ridiculous popups with every click. So thank you and Come the new year (after deployment) I fully intend to become a site supporter. Seriously thank you for all you put into this site for us!!

[joeyputt]

Thank You for the clarification Captkaos, as I am new here I was not sure what the rules were about members sharing information however I did PM the information before you posted that out of respect to the site. I did not join here to advertise at all, I love vintage Chevy and GMC trucks and this was the nicest site I found when I was looking for other people who have the same passion for them so thank you for allowing me to be a member here! I love that this site is family oriented and has rules to keep it a nice community and I try to do the same thing with my internet sites. We do however allow members to share information about there businesses because we all try to take care of each other and I even have a Friends page on my main site where I post links to some of our friends and there is a link to one of the largest motorcycles communiy forums on their as well where we share a lot of builds and we do not charge for the links, like I said though I had not planned on posting any of my shops information frotosride asked so I did not know if it was cool to post it as we do not do any truck work and we do not sell truck parts so there would not be any competition anyway.

As for the truck I have not had a lot of time to work on it as I have been very busy here at the shop however we did run a couple temporary wires to the HEI and starter yesterday so that we could test start the engine and she sounds really good so I am getting ready to start doing a lot of the wiring. I believe I am going to build a custom gauge panel as I want to run a race style dash with toggle switches so when I start building it I will post some new photos.

I have been researching some of the information on the truck and the parts I am using, the cab was built in St. Louis Missouri and the engine is a 90 model 350 with 1.94 Intake valve heads. I also found the numbers on the transmission and it is a 90 model 700R4 which from the information I found here on the site should be the improved transmission with the better pump, etc. compared to the 80's models so that is good news and I am currently trying to decide how I want to connect the tv cable and wire the converter. 

[frotosride]

There are several different ways to wire the convertor ( I assume you are talking about lock up because that's all there is to wire) If you have a good memory a simple toggle switch will work great. However if you can't remember to turn it off when you slow or stop it can damage the transmission. If you want full brainless operation there are a few kits out there that can make it easy or you can piece the kit yourself with as little as a vacuum switch and  some solder and a little wire. I can post a simple diagram if you want. Oh if you go the kits they will run about$100 and most of them include a 4th gear pressure switch which you won't need since your's is a post '86 model.

[joeyputt]

Yes I am talking about wiring the converter, we live out in the country and the truck will not see a lot of highway service so I will most likely run a toggle for the converter as I like the idea of having a manual control however I would love to see your diagram for the vacuum system as well if you do not mind posting it! I am planning on dropping the pan to check the filter and I have seen that you can run a toggle to the wiring directly to the solenoid however I have also read that other people are wiring directly to the plug on the outside of the transmission, do you know if it is possible to wire to the external plug on a 90 model transmission or is it best to wire to the solenoid directly?

I noticed today that my truck looks just like the one in your profile photo, what year is yours?

[silverj]

As far as the u-joint is concerned if the rearend was swapped into the truck, a conversion joint was likely used. Probably a 1330 to 1350 conversion joint.  The 14 bolt should be a 1350 joint.  The driveshaft was probably a 1330 joint.  You can get these joints at Napa around me, I would imagine most parts sources can get them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

[joeyputt]

Thank You for the u joint information and part numbers my friend, I was able to find a u joint with the correct sized caps however the larger half that fits into the rear end needs to be a little wider to self center so I will check the part numbers you gave me to see if they are wider than what I have and if they are the same I may just build some custom caps with side plates. When I first started looking for the rear u joint and we checked the part numbers for a one ton truck the u joints all had the same size caps for the drive shaft and rear end, do factory one ton trucks with 14 bolt rear ends have a different rear drive shaft?

[silverj]

The caps are the same size, but the width is different.  The 1350 joint is slightly wider than the 1330 but the caps are the same.

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[frotosride]

I'm trying to find my diagram but for now this should help you understand the wiring and maybe even do it without the diagram.

The purple wire (terminal A) is the +12 volt supply to the system. The blue, or in some applications dark green, wire (terminal B) is connected to the fourth gear (overdrive) switch in the valve body. This normally closed switch opens whenever the transmission shifts into fourth gear; this informs the ECM that the transmission is operating in the overdrive mode. The tan wire with a black tracer stripe (terminal D) is the ground wire for the TCC solenoid. In the original factory installation this wire is connected to the ECM and when all preprogrammed requirements for TCC operation are met, the ECM grounds this connection to complete the circuit and activate the TCC solenoid in the transmissions valve body which then hydraulically actuates the clutch in the torque converter. terminal C remains unused in this four connector plug. For our rewiring purposes only the purple wire (terminal A) will be used to provide a +12 volt supply to the TCC solenoid.
1.After removing the transmission pan, disconnect, remove and discard the wire which runs from the fourth gear switch to the 4-pin connector in the transmission case.
Grounding circuit...
2.Remove the fourth gear switch (normally closed) and replace it with GM #8627332 or Standard Ignition Part #PS-131 (normally open). In order to gain access to the fourth gear switch to remove it with a socket-wrench, it will be necessary to remove the 1-2 Accumulator housing which is attached to the transmission case with 3 metric bolts with a 10MM hex-head.
Be careful not to damage the gasket!
3.Remove the TCC solenoid ground wire (Black) from the 4-pin wiring connector and connect it to the new switch . If your transmission has a 4-3 downshift switch in the +12V supply wire (Tan) side of the circuit, as most do, retain it.

4.The fourth gear switch (single terminal) is the one on the far right (facing forward) of the rear of the valve body and the 4-3 downshift switch (two terminal) is the unit directly inboard of the fourth gear switch. Rewired in this manner, the TCC will operate only in fourth gear (OD) and will stay locked up whenever overdrive is engaged. Some 700s other than the Corvette, Firebird, or Camaro units use a fourth gear switch or a third gear switch which is normally open and can be used as is. If yours has a normally open third gear switch, it can be moved to the fourth gear port and the third gear port plugged with a 1/8" pipe plug.

[frotosride]

Simplest and safest way to wire the tcc without to many complications

[frotosride]

I just realized that I have too many pics on this computer

[JustinLonghorn]

Small world, my man. Run into the motorcycle brethren  everywhere these days.

Now, let's see the entire truck!