73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Electrical => Topic started by: Cory on November 14, 2013, 08:22:59 PM
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First off I'm obviously new. I've been browsing, searching, and using the info on this forum for some time now and I have to say, I'm not sure what I'd do without it. You all have been a huge help already and I haven't even posted anything yet. Seems to be a wealth of knowledge on here.
Anyway, I have an '86 C10 short bed, originally a 305, but now has a 350 with a 700r4 automatic transmission. Since I've had it, I've gone through most of the wiring inside the cab and cleaned up a rats nest of extra wires from God knows how many stereos and whatever else. The good news is MOST of the wiring harness, inside and out is in fairly great shape with little to no hacks, just a lot of added wiring I've had to clean up.
My problem is, I have all sorts of wires and connectors under the hood and I cannot identify any of them. I am pretty fluent in schematics, as I use them from time to time at work, but none of the wire colors in the engine bay are really matching up on my schematic. It's the correct schematic for my year that I got off of this forum but there seems to be some wires left out on it. I'm ridiculously OCD and all these wires and crap hanging around the engine are driving me crazy. I'm trying to hook back up all of my original gauges as none of them work, as well as clean up the eye sore under the hood. Everything on the truck pretty much works and is in great shape, except for the gauges. I really just want to clean up all the loose wiring in the engine bay.
Before you ask, YES I have searched and searched, even on other C10 forums for the answers, and there's been a whole lot of topics on this, but nothing that really pertains to me. After spending another 2 hours tonight looking, I finally decided to just ask.
Here's the pictures:
1.....This looks like a light green wire. From what a researched, it sounds like maybe this is the temp. sender wire? Not sure though. The second picture shows where it goes into the firewall plug:
A
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0165.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0165.jpg.html)
B
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0166.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0166.jpg.html)
2.....This is another wire that looks a little darker green. It has a black connector on the end of it. The second photo shows where it looks spliced into the ac compressor wiring. The thick green wire in the second picture is going to the compressor, and the thin green one is the one in question. The THIRD picture is a black plug near the center of the firewall that both wires run to. Any ideas??
A
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0167.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0167.jpg.html)
B
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0168.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0168.jpg.html)
C
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0169.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0169.jpg.html)
3.....The next wire is a black wire with green stripe that goes into the black terminal. This is on the left side of the intake if your standing at the front of the truck looking at the motor. It looks like a 2 wire terminal with just the black/green stripe wire going to it:
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0170.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0170.jpg.html)
4.....The black wire with green stripe that I just talked about goes straight from the back of that black plug, right into this plug that also has what looks like a tan or brown wire with a black stripe. This is sitting a few inches behind the alternator, on top of the motor. Looking at the engine schematic, I don't see any tan or brown wires with a black stripe:
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0171.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0171.jpg.html)
5.....OK the next wire appears to be dark green and has a pretty distinctive black plug on the end of it. It was laying across the evaporator I guess to get it out of the way. The second photo shows that it goes into that harness right above the transmission dipstick and then through the rubber grommet in the firewall. This is more towards the center of the firewall if you notice the red distributor cap to the right of the trans. dipstick:
A
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0172.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0172.jpg.html)
B
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/4d6b0f0d-b748-4651-bf8d-2398f568d047.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/4d6b0f0d-b748-4651-bf8d-2398f568d047.jpg.html)
6.....Ready for another? This plug is coming out of the firewall from the same grommet as the last wire I talked about, right above and behind the distributor. 4 wires, 2 of which are obviously light green and yellow. Again, from what I researched on here, I'm thinking maybe something to do with the ESC or something? I have no idea.
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0179.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0179.jpg.html)
7.....Alright alright almost done. This looks like a vacuum switch mounted more on the upper left side of the firewall looking at it from the front of the truck. Wires obviously going in but it looks like someone cut the vacuum hose going to it. A mechanic who was servicing the AC told me it was probably for the torque converter lockup, but from what I've read on here, it sounds like the vacuum switch for that is more towards the brake booster on the firewall?
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0174.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0174.jpg.html)
8.....OK last one. This has nothing to do with the wiring but while we're on the subject of disconnected crap everywhere, the hoses that run to what looks like a vapor canister (front right of engine bay looking from the front of truck) have been completely cut. Looks like 2 fuel lines (or vent lines) and maybe a vacuum line? In the second photo I'm holding the cut lines up, they are just laying over the front wheel well:
A
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0180.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0180.jpg.html)
B
(http://i1121.photobucket.com/albums/l517/ChevY94213/IMG_0164.jpg) (http://s1121.photobucket.com/user/ChevY94213/media/IMG_0164.jpg.html)
Any and all help would be awesome. I drive this truck every day and would like to get all my gauges going again and get all the other wires taken care of. Even if I dont need them, I NEED to know what they go to because my curiosity is killing me.
Thanks again!
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I am going to go by numbers, so..
1 - Temp sensor wire
2 - AC compressor and fast idle switch to the carb
3 - appears to be a ground wire
4 - Looks like part of the Carb Accelerator pump wiring...
5 - Knock sensor goes to the side of the block
6 - Electronic Spark Control or ESC.
7 - This could be the trans lockup control, where do the wires go that is plugged in?
8 - Part of the vapor system, most of those lines went to the carb that came in the truck.
BTW, you are looking at this wiring diagram right: [size=78%]http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Wiring/ST_352_86_1986_Chevrolet_GMC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf (http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Wiring/ST_352_86_1986_Chevrolet_GMC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf)[/size]
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Thank you Captkaos. You are a gentleman and a scholar. I have a couple of questions though. In #3, what would that have been a ground for if it is in fact a ground wire? If it is connected to what looks like the accelerator pump wiring, would it be the ground for that? In #5, would I even need any of the knock sensor wiring if this is obviously not the stock engine and I don't believe there is any type of knock sensor on the side of the engine? In #6, I figured that plug was for the ESC but you confirmed that for me. Do I need this plug or wiring? I don't want to get rid of anything that could only give me the option of having the truck run better i.e. vacuum lines and such, but if it makes no difference with my setup, I want it gone to clean everything up. I would just like everything as stock under there as possible, with the exception of changing the engine out, anyway.
I will have to look at that vacuum switch in #7 and tell you where the wires go, hopefully I can look at it in a little while here and give you an answer.
And lastly the vapor canister in #8. Can this be removed since its obviously not being used? Would hooking it back up lead to better fuel economy or any other benefits? Or with my setup (350 crate) is it just useless?
P.S. the schematic I'm using is the one in the Tech Info section:
http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/81-87_V8_engine.jpg
I looked on the link you sent me and its clearly different but the only engine bay diagram I see is for the straight six...?
As always thank you for the reply.
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Here is a better picture of that vacuum switch in photo #7. As you can see the wires are going into that same harness and bulkhead fitting that the ESC plug wires go into...any ideas?
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Just speaking about the last photo, #7, I thought that was the vacuum control for the ESC. Just a quick look over, but in my opinion you can get rid of 4,5,6,&7. I have removed all of these items on mine. It is an 83, though, so I didn't have #4. You will also have the ESC Control Box, or whatever it is called, under the dash behind the glove box if you follow the wires through the grommet. If you remove those wires, don't remove the grommet or find another one that will fit, as the whole is quite large that it leaves.
I have my truck dissembled right now and will try to take some pics of it, if I think it might help you chase those wires.
I know there are posts on here that show most of what you are describing, but I just didn't search for them, yet. Try to search for ESC and see what comes up.
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Also, I downloaded an entire service manual and some color wiring schematics from 67-72 website, I believe. It may have been from here. I'll check again and post the link. The guy has a lot of them and all scanned.
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That makes sense if #7 was the vacuum control for the ESC since the wires are going to what looks like the same area that the plug is. Does anybody know for sure? And if it is for the ESC, where is the switch for the converter lockup? By the brake booster?
That colored schematic might help out a lot as well.
Thanks again for the responses!
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Captkaos, any word on if I am in fact using the wrong schematic? If so, where would I look on the ones you posted because like I said, all I saw engine wise was for a six cyl.
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http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/7387CKMans//Wiring/ST_352_86_1986_Chevrolet_GMC_Light_Truc_Wiring_Manual_CK_10_30_Only.pdf
Here is a link. It is in the Tech section under Service Manual link. I still didn't find the link where I downloaded my manuals from. I just did it 3 days ago. I can send you the one for an 83 or 91. I downloaded the 91 because it has some different ways of showing the wiring harnesses. And for the most part, a lot of the wiring is similar. Color changes I'm sure.
Does your motor still have the original distributor? If you have ESC and it is the original dist., you should have a plug with Br,W,Bl,&Grn wires that matches up to the larger plug you have.
In the wiring from ESC, through the grommet will possibly be 6 wires inside the cab, with only 5 coming through. 1 Dk Blue (maybe different on yours) will go to the knock sensor. Br,W,Bl,&Grn go to the large plug. The last one is pink/blue which should go to the fuse panel (ignition hot).
This is from my 83 manual and I don't know how much color change happened into 86.
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Oh yeah, converter switch. Do you have one that looks similar by the brake booster around upper left area?
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Ok, I thought I was loosing my mind for a bit. But, I found it.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=545416
Try this link, but read towards the top. Right click the link and save as to computer. Some of these are around 1500 pages.
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Wow thanks for all the info nlauffer. The schematic I got off of the tech section for the engine bay was one page, and looking at the schematics on the link you sent, I am clearly missing a couple.
I don't have an ESC distributor anymore, I'm assuming that went away with the original motor. I will follow the wires you are talking about, all the way to the ESC box and more than likely remove the harness and box to eliminate a lot of that mess. That will take care of picture #5 and #6 right there.
Looking around my brake booster, there is one that looks similar. Its a little different but looks to be the same concept. I'm thinking that is the one for the converter by what I've read on this forum. Really not sure though...even if I figured out which switch was for the converter, would I still need it? I'm assuming its not hooked up but I could be wrong.
Thanks again for that last link and for the replies. I appreciate it!
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What nlauffer linked are the exact identical to what I have in the tech section.
Also it list all of the engine layouts, and it is the actual GM manuals.
Unless you are still running a feedback carb, you can get rid of everything from 3-7, and 7 is the ESC sensor, you can remove it also. Your lockup should be on the brake bracket.
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Could the extra vacuum switch be the clutch cutout on the A/C compressor?
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Captkaos I think my confusion was because the 6 cyl schematic is on the same one as the rest of them. I was thinking it would be on a separate page. I'm pretty sure I have it all figured out thanks to all of you.
My only remaining question is #8. I have a 600 cfm Holley on top so I don't think that vapor canister would be of any use would it? Is that something I will need to hook back up or can it go as well? Either way is fine but I would like to take care of all the cut lines coming off of it by either hooking them back up or getting rid of them.
Thank you again for all the help.
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I removed my vapor canister completely. The manual will have the line diagram for it also. I believe there were 5 lines running to it at one time. Without mine in front of me I can't remember. Two each on those diaphragm pieces and one on the passenger side. It appears you had most of them in your hand. Trace those down and remove them, if you want to get rid of it. Plug any vacuum ports, though. There is also one that connects from a steel line. That steel line is bolted to the driver's side frame rail beside the brake switch. I believe this runs all the way back to the fuel tank(s) and is the vent.
My plan was to remove the steel line, but it seems to be stuck to the feed and return lines. Instead, I will probably run a short piece of hose from the tank to a vent. The rearend vent is attached to the underside of the bed. I will use a similar or same vent and run the piece inside driver's side frame rail along side the rear light wires.
I downloaded all my pictures to my work computer and can not seem to down size them to show you. I will try to take more with my phone and post them.
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Something else to think about, which I am still wondering about is that old vehicle fuel smell. Some had the smell due to the fuel tank being behind the seat. Some had it because of a rich running carb. I believe some also had it because the vapor canister was not hooked up or hooked up properly. I could be wrong, but I think that is the purpose of the vapor canister. It is like a pollution controller for fuel vapor. I am saving mine just in case that "old vehicle fuel smell" is too much. It never bothered me, but my wife has always complained about it, even back when we were in High School.
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What Capt said about the manuals is correct. The only reason I sent you that link, is I am not real good with computers and forums. When I find something that makes sense to me, I have a hard time using other places.
Also, if you still have a 700R4, I believe the vacuum switch by the brake booster better have a vacuum line and electrical plug hooked to it. Otherwise, I don't think the converter will lock up. I haven't really traced down the true job of that switch, but the electrical plug will travel down inside of the trans and control lockup. The manual has a picture of how it does that also, though.
I am going to print mine out today. It's gonna take awhile but I like looking a paper copies.
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Here are some pics that might help. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/18/ery3ened.jpg)
This shows the end of the steel line that is fuel tank vent.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/18/yruneduz.jpg)
Here is the 700s vacuum switch
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/18/amaqazy3.jpg)
Here is the ESC grommet hole. It is a pretty big hole to fill
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)
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Yup that's the vacuum switch I was thinking was for the converter. Those pictures help out a lot nlauffer. Of course the vacuum line on the switch is cut, and the plug on the back of it is missing, so I'm going to have to figure out what wires were supposed to go to that. I actually spent the whole day today removing the engine and tranny to replace some seals and clean everything up...yes I removed the engine to clean it, don't judge me. But you won't believe this. I thought we had all the mystery wires figured out until I was unhooking and labeling everything and found a stupid amount of additional mystery plugs/wires. The saga continues. There are literally 3 or 4 plugs running down to the transmission just dangling there that we're hidden under the firewall, one of which is that red plug that I saw somewhere on here but can't remember what it ended up being for. Looking at the transmission once it is out, I noticed I only have one connector on it for a plug, which I am assuming would be for the wires coming off of that vacuum switch you show in your picture. But what the heck do the other 3 go to??!! Ahhhh this is aggravating. Among the aforementioned plugs are a few other wires going to nothing AND a larger vacuum hose with wires in the same loom coming from the cab through the firewall?? It's a larger vacuum hose tied together with 3 or 4 wires going to a plug. I'm thinking something for the cruise control?? I will have to take more pictures of all this stuff tomorrow to give you a better idea. It's just ridiculous. I'm all for a quick fix but I'd never just leave junk dangling around like this.
You pretty much cleared up any confusion about the vapor canister for me. You're exactly right nlauffer, 5 lines coming from it. Pretty much the only one I'd have to deal with is that vent line coming from the tank. I'm thinking about removing the whole line and just adding a short line (a few inches long) and adding a vent on the end? Or could I just plug it at the fuel sender and add a vented gas cap? That'd be awesome if I could just do that but anybody have any insight on that.
Anyway I guess I'll take some pictures of this new stuff and we'll move on to round two...
Nlauffer, thank you for the pictures and taking the time to help me. You've been a huge asset to have.
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You pretty much cleared up any confusion about the vapor canister for me. You're exactly right nlauffer, 5 lines coming from it. Pretty much the only one I'd have to deal with is that vent line coming from the tank. I'm thinking about removing the whole line and just adding a short line (a few inches long) and adding a vent on the end? Or could I just plug it at the fuel sender and add a vented gas cap? That'd be awesome if I could just do that but anybody have any insight on that.
That's apparently what they did on my 1978 before I got it. No vacuum canister on mine, but the fuel caps have to be vented. 1/16" drill through the cap is all you need. That's what I did when I replaced the old single tank with two new ones.
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That red plug typically goes to the lockup switch.
The one with the large vacuum hose is the cruise control wiring...
Should look simular to this:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12120.msg201240#msg201240 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=12120.msg201240#msg201240)
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/87R10-Driver/cruise_mod_del.jpg)
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Is that the complete cruise control harness? Mine is gone from firewall out, but is left behind under the dash. I was digging around under the dash the other day and was noticing how many loose wires there are under there. Now this post has me thinking about those also. I was just going to clean up the engine bay like Cory while my engine and trans are out, but now....
Where does that black box mount? I don't remember seeing it under the dash.
Cory, Do you have dual tanks? If I remember right some of that wiring you are talking about is fuel tank wiring. I have the same unhooked wires on mine. I just haven't looked into which ones to pull yet. Unfortunately, those wires are just out of sight in my pictures, by only about an inch or so.
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Yes that is all of it plus the fiber optic wire.
The box mounts at the back of the firewall near the gas pedal.
If the gas gauge is working, none of those would be going to a gas tank. There is only a sender and a ground going to them.
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Correct. What I was referring to is that I thought the fuel sender wire and switching wires run down the same place as those unhooked connectors. Driver's frame rail.
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I don't have dual tanks and I'm pretty sure it never did because I don't have a switch on the dash, or any noticeable wires under there that looked like they may have been for a switch. The only tank I have is mounted right behind the drivers door under the bed.
I suppose I can remove that whole cruise control harness as mine is inop. And God knows what components I'm missing out of that whole system. I'll save the harness though just in case, because it might bug me later on not having an option that the truck originally came with.
I still haven't had a chance to take pictures of all the new mystery wires I have, mainly because I need to check the schematic again to see if I can figure them all out before I waste any more of y'alls time, or somebody wonders if I have even looked at a schematic. Also I've been busy trying to degrease the motor since it's now laying in my garage. Once I take a look at the schematics again, if I still can't figure it out, I'll post some pictures and we'll go from there. I'll try for tomorrow. Thanks again and sorry for the delay.
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Time to bring this back to life.....Sorry it took me so long to get these pictures, but with the Holidays and me trying to figure out most of this stuff on my own, its been a slow process. The good news is, I figured out 80% of these new "mystery wires" by using the schematic that Captkaos and nlauffer sent me.
To give an update on all my original questons:
Picture #1 is definitely the temp. sender wire, like you guys all said.
#2. The thinner green wire is part of the ac circuit and goes to the fast idle relay. Do I still need this wire? That relay is long gone, and the ac compressor has its own ground now. Also the throttle kicker solenoid is spliced directly into the green/white wire, looks like number 959. So can I get rid of the wire in picture 2 if it just goes to the fast idle relay?
#3. That black/gray wire actually goes to the carb fuel solenoid temperature switch. I finally found that on the schematic. I was able to get rid of this.
#4. This plug with what looked like tan/black, is actually pink/black, and the plug goes to the carb accelerator pump fuel solenoid. Again I got rid of this.
#5. Definitely the knock sensor like you said. I thought it was dark green but is actually blue on the schematic. Got rid of it.
#6. Obviously the ESC plug to the distributor like you said. Used a thread on here and got rid of that entire harness along with the ESC controller.
#7. Is the tip-in vacuum switch for the ESC so I was able to get rid of that as well with the rest of the ESC harness.
#8. Clearly vacuum canister. I did however remove it and the lines going to nothing. I still have to add a vent to the vent line going to the fuel tank.
Huge boost of confidence for me to get all of those resolved -and sorted through. Thank you all for the help!! I do have a few more questions, however....but I am almost there.
Here are pictures of the three plugs and a mess of wires going to each that I had talked about in an earlier reply:
In the first picture, that white/tanish looking plug is actually the one for the torque converter lockup. That goes go my only electrical plug on my 700 r4 transmission.
The second picture shows a circular two-pronged plug and the third picture is that red plug I was talking about. I don't know which one does, but on the schematic one of these plugs runs to the EGR bleed solenoid. I'm assuming that was removed a long time ago.
All three of these plugs have wires going to each other, and they all turn into the 3 total wires in the 4th picture (2 light green and 1 light blue).
From there, they run into a plug that cant go anywhere except that vacuum switch by the brake booster that we established was the vacuum switch for the torque lockup. This is picture #5, but I have to make a second post since I can only post 4 pictures at a time.
After that plug in picture #5, they turn into 2 wires, one light green, the other light blue, and they run into a plug in picture number 6.
After that plug in #6, the light green wire goes to that orange plug in the same picture. On the schematic, it says this is "Test (orange)"??? Is this just some kind of test lead that goes to nothing? Or does anybody know where it goes to? Then the light blue wire goes into the firewall right by the main harness plug in picture number 7, and goes up the inside of the firewall and I lose it. By looking at the schematic it says the light blue wire runs to the brake switch. I'm assuming this is so when your foot hits the brake, this wire will disengage the lockup?
My question with this is, does anybody know for sure what the round plug and red plug go to? And which one goes to the EGR bleed solenoid? Not that it really matters because mine is gone.
I need converter lockup, and I was planning on hooking the original harness up and replacing that vacuum switch with a new one, but after realizing there are two other plugs connected to the same harness, and that green wire is going to nothing, would it be easier to just remove this whole harness and buy a lockup kit from somewhere like jegs or wherever?? And IF it would be better to just buy an aftermarket lockup kit, is there anyone out there with recommendations? Which one would you recommend? Or stay away from? There seems to be a lot. I found one from Monster Transmissions that had a "how to video" and all that, that seemed like a great kit, but my other question is, most of these kits say to screw the 4th gear switch into the side of the 700r4 in the 4th gear plug, but looking at my 700r4 I have no such port or plug on the side of the tranny. How could this be and what other options do I have for this switch, or would I have to look into a different designed lockup kit?
Any help on a lockup kit, or if I can still use the original lockup harness while figuring out the other two plugs would be awesome.
Thanks again and sorry for another long post!!!
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Here's the last 3 pictures:
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The #2 if so described would increase the idle back to normal when the AC came on.
Picture one from what I can see is part of your lockup, some of it is going to interface with the ESC from what I remember.
Picture two appears to be the oil pressure sensor?
Picture three of the red connector should go to the vacuum switch for lockup, is should be able to plug into the other vacuum switch.
Picture four, unlock switch to the brake switch
Picture five, unlock switch...
Picture six. Test lead for unlocking the converter?
Picture seven unlock switch to the brake switch
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You have the exact same setup as my truck except mine is K10 and you are C10
Pic 1 is the EGR bleed version (3 wires) 700r4 trans connector.
Pic 2 is the EGR bleed solenoid connector, you must either jump the two female opening together (how PO did mine) or cut it out and solder the wires together for lockup to occur (my project in the spring).
Pic 3 is not found on my truck. It has a yellow wire and dark green wire. No where in the trans schematic does it show this connection or even a DK GRN wire.
Pic 4 is is the wiring coming up to the low vacuum switch.
Pic 5 is the low vacuum switch connector, plug it into the TCC switch in the picture with the vacuum hose on the other end.
Pic 6 shows the second connector in the wiring diagram. The LT GRN wire is from the low vacuum switch. The LT BLU wire is from a factory splice that came from the EGR bleed solenoid and the trans connector. It also shows the orange diagnostic torque converter lockup connector. this should be inside the cab. The blue wire leads to the brake switch connector inside.
Pic 7 is the blue wire going into the cab that leads to the brake switch connector, i.e. the brake plunger. The other wire coming from the brake switch connector should be a BRN/WHT wire going to the fuse box.
I attached the wiring diagram for your trans wiring setup.
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1b the temp gauge wire is in this pic its a small copper wier with coil round it not sure whay green wire is temp runs in block on driver side trought header or under