Author Topic: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one  (Read 19630 times)

Offline Captkaos

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #30 on: March 11, 2014, 10:48:10 PM »
Still wasn't bad.. 

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #31 on: March 11, 2014, 10:53:49 PM »
yeah i made it past the cones lol
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #32 on: March 21, 2014, 10:33:12 PM »
missed out on a real good deal today. a guy about a hour away was on craigslist about 2300 last night. i got on about 0200. he was selling his 1999 dodge 2500 cummins and 5 speed for 4500. i  hemmed and hawed about it till lunch called him up asked whats up with it (why so cheap the engine is worth 2500 and the trans is worth 3500) but he said i was about the 200th called and he wished he asked for more money but someone was getting a trailer to come pick it up :'(
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Offline Displaced_Txn

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #33 on: March 29, 2014, 07:54:32 PM »
its a good engine to swap and so on but does have its problems like every other engine. I would def take care of he kdp on it. At times I miss my 97 cummins but the death wobble and crap trans didn't make it worth keeping it.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #34 on: March 29, 2014, 10:50:53 PM »
yeah once it gets pulled for the 4l80/205 i will def take care of the kdp. my buddy had two 5.9s he got on a trade. took them to the machine shop to get them baked and checked and both had cracked heads. apparently the 5.9s are prone to cracking and the heads are considered not reusable because of this. but others say if your not loosing compression then dont worry about it.
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #35 on: April 22, 2014, 11:31:23 PM »
well got the trans i wanted from a customer. got a 2000 k3500 blown 6.5td with a dump body electric over hydraulic 8.1'. all i wanted was the trans but the guy told me from the get go he needed it out in two days. i hemmed and hawed about it kept on saying how scared i was to get the trans cause the fluid didnt look good ;-). he asked whats it worth to me i said "core price" and he asked how much is that. i told him $200. so he kept dropping the price from around $1500 got him down to $800 and with what he owed my buddy ($200) he dropped it down to $700. so i told him 7+2=9 not 8. then i got the whole truck for $650. i think we can fix the dump body up and get a easy 1.5k out of her. then im going to put my 94 c1500 short bed on the frame after some cutting putting another 4l80e and a 400hp/tq carbed motor in her. maybe give it to the wife since it is her first truck ;-).
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Offline FearNoMan78k10

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #36 on: April 23, 2014, 01:24:21 PM »
I think you did really well, I had a 98.5 24 valve cummins  , ram 2500 4x4. I built up the engine and truck, I went to school at universal technical institute for diesel industrial technology . I'd love to help out if you have any questions . 576rwhp 1158rwtq after I was done with the build, 58 lbs of boost, I think you scored on this truck. Awesome friggin shape and having those axles paired up to a cummins, oh yeah that's awesome for sure. Cummins engines are the best. Get the KDP fixed ASAP ASAP ASAP. This engine will keep going forever if you take care of it. Long live Cummins engines lol
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #37 on: April 23, 2014, 10:41:34 PM »
lol. how expensive is it to get 400hp out of one of these?
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Offline 87V20Kansan

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2014, 11:16:04 PM »
I know it doesn't take a ton of money. You'd be amazed the difference you see with just some timing and a fuel screw adjustments. Even though the P-pumped trucks are the hot rodder's choice, there are guys who hop up the VE pumped trucks. I know Scheid Diesel in Terra Haute can make them run. Here is what I have always thought was a great Cummins related forum. Great info over there.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forum.php?s=cee3685373e6e0ac8e594fe2a07b1d1f
« Last Edit: April 23, 2014, 11:29:47 PM by 87V20Kansan »
Cecil: 1987 V20, TBI 350, TH400, 4:10's, 7" lift, 37" H1 beadlocked runflats. Cummins swap someday.

Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #39 on: April 24, 2014, 12:23:39 AM »
i did take her mudding today. the only problem i had was the tires that where on her, they are too narrow. i was going threw some weeds and with just a little resistance they just dug. she did back out with no problem but i was half tempted to gut the fenders and put 40s on her. but i dont want to ruin good fenders for a little fun
« Last Edit: April 24, 2014, 10:52:31 PM by Irish_Alley »
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Offline FearNoMan78k10

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #40 on: April 24, 2014, 09:27:05 AM »
Not tooo expensive , depending on altitude and humidity in your area. The engines overall health and what your clutch can put to the ground. I would honestly say for 1500 to 2500 depending on your engines needs, you would have a nice running cummins making good power if you did it yourself
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Offline Irish_Alley

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #41 on: April 24, 2014, 10:58:28 PM »
are we talking injectors and pump or what other mods? the pump has been turned up i know that. it doesnt smoke real bad when you get on it, and im ok with that. dont mind a little smoke but some of those trucks in the truck pull where ridicules like you would lose sight of them on the track
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Offline FearNoMan78k10

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #42 on: July 02, 2014, 03:41:23 PM »
If your injectors are stock which I'm assuming they are, you have many options with this cummins engine you have to make good reliable power , first , you can advance and adjust your timing a hair, that will help, also, your fuel pump can be adjusted quite a bit to add fuel, once you add fuel you need the air to match the new fuel delivery. Your turbo can be adjusted as well with a different waste gate or by simply adjusting the spring and what the new pressure let off will be. Another way to gain some ponies is by going with a stage 1 injector setup. Stage 2 would be the most I would go on your truck depending on what you are wanting to do. Stage 3 75hp injectors really start to add quite a bit of fuel and a stock turbo would have a hard time keeping up... You could "make" it work but then your turbo would have to be cranked up quite a bit causing it to operate out of its efficiency range causing increased exhaust gas temperatures and a loss in fuel mileage and in power and torque as well. Creating 25 to 30 lbs of boost on a stock cummins turbo  ( you probably have a holsett hx40 because you have a manual ) the hx35's were mainly mounted onto the automatic tranny trucks because faster spool time and a lack of ability to get the rpms up better and not have turbo lag. Now with your 5.9l I wanted to say that they are NOT prone to cracking on the heads nor the block.. That is mislead information whoever told you that. I did nothing but work on and around cummins engines and dodge cummins diesel trucks for several years. I have an associates in diesel industrial technology and built my 5.9 24 valve from the ground up after sucking the rubber grommet on a K&n air filter into my engine in the desert of Arizona ,,,,, I would NOT recommend k&n at all for your cummins.. I would go with an AEM dry flow air filter. Find one with a 40 micron rating or better... The problem with k&n is that it's holes through the actual filter are too large and small particles combined with boost pressures and air intake speeds suck the particules straight through and into your engine creating a slow sandblasting effect on your engine... Changing the exhaust housing side of the turbo to a smaller one creates faster spool up times but not as much boost as if you went with a larger exhaust housing with longer spool up times... You may also choose to change your intake compressor housing side to a larger or smaller wheel... Your best options for a grand or under is to change out the injectors, advance your timing, fix the killer dowel pin ( has nothing to do with power )  adjust your fuel pump and tune it up a bit, get a AEM dry flow air filtration system, a FASS ( fuel air separation system can go a LONG ways on your trucks ability to fuel itself while separating any air and water from your fuel. Leads to a much better fuel delivery , better burn rate with the air taken out and moisture as well, also, something to think about. Get 5/8" thick fuel lines from the fuel pump in your tank all the way to the fuel pump you have up front. Only so much fuel can be delivered through your stock fuel pump from the fuel tank side. You can get your engines fuel pump cranked up but the pump supplying fuel from your fuel tank can only do so much without adding a aftermarket pump for your tank and larger fuel lines to go with it. Get a FASS for your truck.. Even not thinking about hp and tq it will serve you well just having one on your truck to seperate air water and fuel to your cummins engine... A nice good 3 to 4" ( depends on airflow and boost and fuel delivery ) ( your setup ( fuel timing air etc ) depends heavily on what all is done on what size to go with for your down pipe and your power of the motor combined with your boost levels will determine what size down pipe from your turbo you will need.. THAT is a HUGE game changer in allowing those hot exhaust gas temperatures to quickly exit your turbo and not create higher temps by turning everything else up a notch and not having the ability to create boost and dispense it quickly . Having lingering hot exhaust temps is bad for your turbo and engines ability to run efficiency off your turbo. Once you address the down pipe you will see a deduction in exhaust gas temps on your EGT gauge , if you don't have one yet I highly recommend one. Go with an auto meter gauge . And mount your temp sensor on the manifold NOT the exhaust side of the turbo housing. Who cares what the temp is going out the housing side? Because it's already gone through your engine and exiting the turbo side, the air pressure is done doing its job when it's exiting out the back of the turbo . A better safer more accurate reading will be on the manifold itself, that will give you a good true reading and will allow you to monitor and control your EGT temperatures in a much better way... Your air intake manifold can be swapped out for an aftermarket one that will allow more air to flow through. Be careful of ATS products as they overrate and overstate their products capabilities . I would look elsewhere if I was you... Larger diameter piping for your turbo throughout the entire engine will help you out and cool the temps down a bit, use the blue turbo hoses and clamps provided by a local or online store, stock boots will start blowing off and slowly ripping at 35 to 40 lbs of boost. I ran 58 lbs of boost on a single turbo with phenomanol turbo spool up times.... Your tranny can hold up to quite a bit of tq and hp compared to the automatic trans by a LONGSHOT. I blew up 3 trannies, 3 torque converters and two valve bodies on a 1000hp rated ATS stage 2 billet race tranny... $5795.,, now it was all covered under warranty but still, if you decide to change transmissions, sun coast would be a great company to look at! But your stock tranny coupled with a nice aftermarket clutch will go a LONG ways in helping you not break your clutch or your transmission. No billet input or output shafts are needed for 400hp so you should be just fine there. But definitely change out all your u-joints to a stronger solid cross design... Get u-joints without the grease insert.... Buy yourself good u-joints... Thread locker on your bolts to hold the u joints in will help greatly as stretched bolts can cause big problems for your driveline... Run royal purple or Lucas or amsoil or ROTELLA , valvoline or Mobil one and stick with the same brand every single time you do an oil change, purolator makes a great engine oil filter for your cummins engine.  Buy two quarts of oil extra each and every time you change your oil get that Diesel engine oil HOT and it will drain much better and more efficiently . Flush the two extra quarts of oil down your valve cap to flush out extra varnish and dirty oil for a sparkling clean as possible engine every time after a oil change on that cummins. Get a large magnetic drain plug from a local shop or online to help seperate the junk ( metal shavings ) that your engine will have after a oil change....change your tranny oil like clock work with your engine oil. Every two oil changes possibly three depending on how hard you are on it where you live what kind of conditions the truck is put through change that tranny fluid... Key to long tranny life,,,,  careful of mixing too much water in your coolant , causing cavitation in the motor... Ohh and remove your muffler and clear out all the junk, remove that and put a better flowing muffler on it.... Those mufflers just kill the exhaust and motor big time, that in itself changing that will help out alot..  If you have any questions I'd be happy to help you Irish
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Offline FearNoMan78k10

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Re: Sooooo i had to put my drool bib on for this one
« Reply #43 on: July 02, 2014, 05:29:40 PM »
Sorry it's been a couple months since you asked your question, life has been pretty hectic busy Irish
78 k10 4x4