Author Topic: Replacing motor turned full strip down  (Read 2692 times)

Offline ddkeeler

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Replacing motor turned full strip down
« on: November 13, 2016, 09:45:53 PM »
I have been checking out this forum for several months, finally getting the time to share some of the work I've done on my 81 C10.

Well I ended up coming across this truck while trying to sell a 1986 Porsche 944 and some kid wanted to trade for the truck.

The truck had some pretty bad rust that the kid had cut out. (Total nightmare). But I am ok with doing panel replacement. I was excited that the engine appeared to be good and there were no transmission issues. I figured I am getting a great deal plus a bunch of extra parts.

Well made the deal. And in the process of driving home I had keep adding coolant due to a leak at the heater core.

Got home and repaired that. Then drove it around and there were clouds of blue smoke from oil hitting exhaust pipes. Went home and inspected everything. It was leaking from front seal and rear main seal as well as at oil pan.

Here are pics the day I brought it home. Not very good pics. I regret not taking more.



Here is part of the front end torn down. I decided I was going to just pull the motor and do a once over on everything.



Well after draining oil I removed oil pan and checked the internals, grabbed the flywheel and it moved a solid 1/16".
Tore it completely down and took it to the machine shop. Opted not to use this block as it needed about 800$ in work. (This was My first of many mistakes)


Bought a tbi complete motor from a friend. Intended on running efi but opted not to do this and use a new carb that I had.

Tore this guy all the way down and took it to machine shop. All this needed was a bore to .030 over so I got this block machined and started piecing together internals.

Ended up replacing every component on the engine.
Scat forged crank
Eagle I beam rods
Mahle pistons paired with 64cc chamber bumps compression to 10.5:1
Revolution aluminum heads 205 runner 64cc chamber
Roller rockers 1.5:1
Comp cams .454 lift 268 exhaust and intake 110lsa

Was going for a mild motor for street use. Figured it would be good paired to the th350 with 2000 stall converter and 2.77 gears



Well while machine work and waiting on parts I decided to tackle cleaning and lowering the suspension
Did 3" lower springs in front and flip kit in rear, these parts came with the truck along with new shocks. Also replaced control arm bushings and tie rod ends and ball joints while doing suspension. Removed the box for easier access to suspension bolts.

Still waiting on block to get back and started looking at the body work determined I needed to remove cab to get easier access to the braces that are gone.

Got the block back after this and put it into the frame

Now I started removing all rust from frame and I wanted to try to increase rigidity of the frame so I removed the factor braces and made one I thought would work better.

Then I started painting the frame with a rubber undercoating.


I decided to check out what was in the rear axle, was a 2.77 gear with gov loc carrier

Gov loc teeth were sheered off. Tried finding a new carrier to put in but the carrier series wouldn't let me. I just picked up a whole new axle and got 3.42 open diff 12 bolt and picked up a spartan locker for it as well

Then started replacing rusted brake lines and installed new drums and shoes

I regret not upgrading to disc brakes while I had the axles out.


Installed Holley red fuel pump and will be running a return line regulator. Fuel line is 3/8
Installed new alternator
Installed headers. Found the drivers side cyl 3 spark plug interferes with header due to angled plugs in head.

Chopped the header up and re routed over instead of under.

I welded up some 2.5 steel exhaust piping for my mufflers I went with the flowmaster super 44 mufflers. I also welded an o2 bung in for the wide band o2 sensor and a/f gauge I'll be running.


Now at a stoping point till I get the body back on. Started with passenger side floor brace and cab mount to remove.

Then I removed the kick panel and the floor

Just purchased a new air compressor and have been working on setting up my air lines. In between doing that I removed some parts from the fire wall wiring harness and steering shaft. Spent today cleaning up and tracing all the wires on the harness. I'll get some pictures of that later


My goals for the truck spiraled. For now I am finishing up body work on cab and getting the front end and cab painted will be a flat grey finish. The bed will have to wait till down the road to get repaired. I will be switching to disc brakes in the rear in the near future after I upgrade to larger wheels and get rid of the cheap 15s I have. Then I will work on installing a 4 link system and run coil overs. I initially started to build this with hopes of daily driving but now I would like to use it was a multi purpose street/autox/hauler. Lots of coulda woulda shouldas have already been had and I am sure there will be many more.

Thanks for checking out my build

Have a good day!

Offline LTZ C20

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Re: Replacing motor turned full strip down
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2016, 10:18:08 PM »
Welcome from central California. Nice build so far.
LTZ Cheyenne C20

Offline 1967KaiserM715

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  • 1985 GMC K1500 w/ 6.5 TD
Re: Replacing motor turned full strip down
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2016, 05:01:57 AM »
Nice build, did the same thing with my truck, pulled the tranny as it was bad when I bought the truck, next thing I know the truck is stripped and I'm doing an engine swap and full repaint.


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Current Vehicles:1985 GMC K10(Daily) 1991 GMC K2500(Daily) 1975 Beetle(not running) 1985 Mercedes 300D(not running) 1952 M35    1967 M715(not running)
 1986 Chevy K30(under repair)