What's broke? 350 sounds like an IDI diesel & slightly glittery oil. CRAP!!!

[bd]

Although there maybe some disagreement from the performance crowd, settling on one-half to one full turn after zero lash isn't as important as adjusting all the valves using the same preload.  The only thing that preload accomplishes is to allow the hydraulic lifters to function like hydraulic lifters and maintain zero lash under normal operating conditions.  If you regularly twist a motor tight, stoplight-to-stoplight, then use less preload.  If your after extended service intervals, adjust to one full turn.

Additionally, whether you complete the adjustment running, or just barely remove the lash running then shut the engine off before cranking down the final amount is also arbitrary.  What is NOT arbitrary is preloading the lifters slowly, because you don't want a valve kissing a piston, running or not.  So, take your time tightening beyond zero lash.

All of that said, I generally adjust three-quarter to one full turn beyond zero lash for all stock to near-stock configurations.  It's arbitrary.

[thefarmboy21]

Well I'll adjust to 3/4-1 turn past zero and MAYBE my strange chatter will go away. However, I've done even more research on comp lifters being the culprit and there are lots of people with this issue. The general consensus is that in 2008/2009 Comp had to use a different manufacturer for their lower end lifters, because the place they were using shut down. And that's when I bought my cam kit.....crap. Some said they just run the noisy lifters and some swapped out for a different set or different cam kit all together. I really don't mind the noise as long as it's no real problem. My main concern is that the rockers get adequate oil!

[thefarmboy21]

I adjusted my valves this morning to 3/4 turn and seemed to quiet the diesel sound down, BUT I can still hear it. THEN I noticed that both exhaust pipes were sucking my hand in at idle??? So I backed the passenger side back off to zero lash thinking maybe they were too tight......still sucking my hand. Now the passenger side is back to 1/2turn past zero and drivers side is at 3/4 until I figure out where I stand.

* Here's why I'm still confused:
1. I just worked the heads myself, replaced one burnt valve, re-seated all of them and now they have about only 250miles on them since I put them on.
2. I have true duals and it's sucking equally on both sides.
3. It runs incredibly well. Tons of power, no backfiring and no hesitation.

I know I have some exhaust leaks due to a fresh/cheap exhaust kit, but would and exhaust leak cause both tail pipes to suck that strongly? Also it has about 70miles on a fresh oil change and it already has a black tint to it and smells kinda like burnt fuel?

[bd]

You realize that you are talking yourself into deeper confusion by focusing on your uncertainty instead of focusing on what you know from your experience.  Stop second guessing yourself!

If you're concerned about fuel in the oil, let a drop of oil from the dipstick land on a clean fingertip to see if the oil holds its circular shape or tracks along your fingerprint.  It should hold its circular shape.

"Sucking" at the tailpipe is probably due to reversion of the exhaust pulses as acoustic waves reflect back up toward the cylinder head from the end of the open exhaust.  It's the same principle that helps scavenge a combustion chamber and why headers benefit performance.  Acoustic waves move through the exhaust pipe in both directions.  The 'sucking' is probably related more to valve timing, ignition timing, RPM and the length of the pipe than anything else.

If your worried about combustion chamber sealing, perform a cylinder leak down test or compression check.  If you have a lot of engine hours on the timing chain, check it for stretch.  Get the idea?  Perform standard diagnostic tests and focus on the results.

You maybe right on the lifters being the source of the noise, especially if the manufacturer restricted oil flow through the lifters to enhance anti-pump-up characteristics. 

Use a 1.25" x 3' long thick-wall rubber hose as a listening tube to try and pinpoint the engine clatter.  Then rely on standard tests, observation and your experience.

[thefarmboy21]

Yea I'm stressing myself out over stuff that doesn't make sense, when it runs fine. I'll just check my oil again and cut the filter open to see of anything is in there and just drive it a while. Thanks for the help....I'll reply after something actually goes wrong.