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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Farm boy on May 04, 2012, 10:02:32 AM
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I have a 1980 Chevy K10 with a 350 and Holly carb (4 barrel with vacuum secondary). I had just fixed a electrical problem and took it out for a test drive. After five miles I was braking and the engine cut out for a second (no more than that), well I figured it was just a glitch and didn't worry about it so we continued on to a parking lot put the cleaner in the trany (I wanted to run SeaFome though it), and headed for home. So on the way home I was accelerating really slow to keep it in each gear as long as I could, but at the last intersection I really pouched it. I made it to about 35-40mph and the engine just died, so i pulled it into a driveway and tried to start it but I couldn't. So we towed it home and it sat till the next day at which point i tried starting it, and it started right up first try.
So any ideas on what is wrong with my truck?
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If it dies like you turn the key off, it could be the pickup coil and/or ignition module. You can rig a test light to the distributor power lead to monitor while driving. If the test light stays lit when the engine dies then you probably have distributor issues. These days it's probably cheaper to replace the complete distributor than individual pieces. If it dies gradually, it's probably fuel related.
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I don't know exactly how fast it died because I had the window open, and I didn't have the new tach installed yet. But it was pretty quick though.
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Loose feed conetion? positive wire running to your dis.
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Like bd said the module in the distributor would be where I would start.I had a 1976 truck do me the same way,I replaced the whole distrbutor with a billet alunimum one for around 150.00 the truck ran like a new one from then on.
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I had a coil that was intermediately breaking-down in my '68 stepside once. It would occassionally just die and not want to start, but after it sat for a bit it would fire right back up like nothing was wrong! Might want to have your coil checked-out.
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I guess it's time for another under hood adventure:) Were would the best place to get distributor parts? Just go to auto zone or would I be better off getting it online?
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I guess it's time for another under hood adventure:) Were would the best place to get distributor parts? Just go to auto zone or would I be better off getting it online?
Jegs sells a HEI kit for a small block chevy for $140, im buying mine next week for my motor im building http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/40002K/10002/-1?parentProductId=755778
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Before purchasing a bunch of parts, take a look at this post by Vile:
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,23628.msg197152.html#msg197152 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php/topic,23628.msg197152.html#msg197152)
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Thanks, I do believe I'll go that rout. And I must say I never thought I'd see a clear distributor.
Edit: Are you sure that it isn't worth buying it by it's self? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1980-Chevrolet-K10-1-2-ton-P-U-4WD/_/N-ilziuZ9n80r?itemIdentifier=111997_0_0_&vehicleIdForService=217449055 now that's if that is the only problem; if not than I'll just buy the hole thing.
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You would be better off to buy standard ignition parts in the red boxes not the cheaper green boxes from your local speed shop or napa or car quest.I never had any good luck with auto zone anything.Make sure when buying a distributor cap and rotor,you get the ones with the brass contacts not the galvanized ones, the brass ones last and perform alot better.
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Thanks, I do believe I'll go that rout. And I must say I never thought I'd see a clear distributor.
Edit: Are you sure that it isn't worth buying it by it's self? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1980-Chevrolet-K10-1-2-ton-P-U-4WD/_/N-ilziuZ9n80r?itemIdentifier=111997_0_0_&vehicleIdForService=217449055 now that's if that is the only problem; if not than I'll just buy the hole thing.
Best to buy the whole thing. It will perform better:)
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...Are you sure that it isn't worth buying it by it's self? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1980-Chevrolet-K10-1-2-ton-P-U-4WD/_/N-ilziuZ9n80r?itemIdentifier=111997_0_0_&vehicleIdForService=217449055 (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Ignition-Coil/1980-Chevrolet-K10-1-2-ton-P-U-4WD/_/N-ilziuZ9n80r?itemIdentifier=111997_0_0_&vehicleIdForService=217449055) now that's if that is the only problem; if not than I'll just buy the hole thing.
Truth is: it amounts to personal preference and choice.
As you said, if the ignition coil is the problem, and the only problem.... (The distributor doesn't need to be removed to replace the ignition coil). Or, if the module is "the" problem, and the "only" problem, AND you diagnose it correctly out the gate, it's cheaper to replace the single component.... But, if you replace the coil OR module and still have an issue cutting out, then you decide you need to replace the pickup coil, as well.... (The distributor must be removed and disassembled to replace the pickup coil). You see where this can go.
It's personal preference.
...Best to buy the whole thing. It will perform better:)
If you diagnose it correctly and replace the right parts, fixed is fixed. :)
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as far as i know the pick-up coil cant be tested and the icm may test good but be bad. can have something to do with heat, and the same goes for the coil. and about the brass parts yes its true but last time i check most spark plugs arnt brass. and lets say you need a new cap and rotor thats about 25 bucks right there. then you just buy one part thats another 20 bucks then its the wrong part now you have to buy another. that distributor vile posted is with the cap and rotor plus one part. the icm does tend to fail once it reaches a certain temp and work good cold. this is why its hard to test on a bench cause it wont work long enough to get that hot
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as far as i know the pick-up coil cant be tested and the icm may test good but be bad. can have something to do with heat, and the same goes for the coil. and about the brass parts yes its true but last time i check most spark plugs arnt brass. and lets say you need a new cap and rotor thats about 25 bucks right there. then you just buy one part thats another 20 bucks then its the wrong part now you have to buy another. that distributor vile posted is with the cap and rotor plus one part. the icm does tend to fail once it reaches a certain temp and work good cold. this is why its hard to test on a bench cause it wont work long enough to get that hot
well said
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I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)
One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?
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I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)
One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?
K, i only did this a few times, K number 1 cylinder pull the plug out and put your finger in the spark plug hole,turn motor over BY HAND,you'll feel the air come thru and take a look at your timing mark at 10 or what ever it calls for...Now that that is done put your dis. in and have the rotor pointing at the number one cylinder.And if it dose not seat all the way use a long flat screw driver (clean) or a oil pump primer.to turn the pump rod so that the dis. connects correctly,move lil by lil this takes pachents...Now put your cap on and have the rotor and cap line up with the spark tower(use a screw driver to match the rotor tip and cap tower match,you'll have to time it when you get it running)Your firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2,You go in a clock wise around the cap,Hope my info helps you wire that puppy up
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I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)
One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?
I think you're going to be money ahead and probably the happiest by replacing the complete distributor.
Here's another method that accomplishes the same thing; either will work:
* Mark the #1 spark plug wire position on the old distributor cap.
* Lift the distributor cap and crank the engine over until the rotor points to the #1 plug wire position.
* With the ignition key OFF, rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer aligns with the zero degree timing mark on the cover. (This will put #1 cylinder at TDC compression).
* Remove the distributor cap from the old distributor.
* Find a fixed point on the intake manifold or firewall where the vacuum advance is pointing, and make a mark.
* Find a second fixed point on the intake manifold or firewall where the rotor tip is pointing, and make a second mark.
* Unbolt and remove the distributor - notice as you lift the distributor that the rotor will rotate - pay attention to how far it rotates and the direction it rotates.
* Using a new gasket, install the new distributor in the same orientation, with the rotor pointing in the same direction as the old distributor. (When you're done the vacuum advance and distributor rotor should be oriented the same as the original distributor before it was removed).
* Install the new cap, plug in the wires starting with #1, set the timing, lock the distributor down and your done.
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Just remember if the distributor doesnt sit down all the way get that flat head out and turn the oil pump rod
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Yep, I was right (I knew most of that, but it's been a while).
I'll be using the first since I took the hole thing out today (and remembered after that I didn't have the needed info to put it back :-\)
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Oops! Well at least you've got friends here who will help you when you need it. They're a good bunch. :D
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Yup. You guys are great. Thanks for helping the newbie :)
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Ah, what do you do with the bad distributor?
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Barn decoration! ;D
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If it's a stock distributor, I may take the weights and center plate. Do you know what number is stamped on them??
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Not off the top of my head but I'll check and get back to you.
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The numbers are: 1103274 and 8b28
Does that help? If not i think I'll just recycle the metal (that copper coil should be worth something;).