Author Topic: Truck engine cutting out  (Read 11604 times)

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2012, 04:02:01 PM »
I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)

One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?
K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!

Offline codyC10kid

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2012, 05:52:11 PM »
I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)

One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?
K, i only did this a few times, K number 1 cylinder pull the plug out and put your finger in the spark plug hole,turn motor over BY HAND,you'll feel the air come thru and take a look at your timing mark at 10 or what ever it calls for...Now that that is done put your dis. in and have the rotor pointing at the number one cylinder.And if it dose not seat all the way use a long flat screw driver (clean) or a oil pump primer.to turn the pump rod so that the dis. connects correctly,move lil by lil this takes pachents...Now put your cap on and have the rotor and cap line up with the spark tower(use a screw driver to match the rotor tip and cap tower match,you'll have to time it when you get it running)Your firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2,You go in a clock wise around the cap,Hope my info helps you wire that puppy up

Offline bd

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #17 on: May 09, 2012, 05:57:37 PM »
I think I'll just replace the hole thing:)

One more quick question (that will make me feel really dumb after it's answered). How do you know if the rotter is in the right position when you put it all back together?

I think you're going to be money ahead and probably the happiest by replacing the complete distributor.

Here's another method that accomplishes the same thing; either will work:
*  Mark the #1 spark plug wire position on the old distributor cap.
*  Lift the distributor cap and crank the engine over until the rotor points to the #1  plug wire position.
*  With the ignition key OFF, rotate the engine by hand until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer aligns with the zero degree timing mark on the cover.  (This will put #1 cylinder at TDC compression).
*  Remove the distributor cap from the old distributor.
*  Find a fixed point on the intake manifold or firewall where the vacuum advance is pointing, and make a mark.
*  Find a second fixed point on the intake manifold or firewall where the rotor tip is pointing, and make a second mark.
*  Unbolt and remove the distributor - notice as you lift the distributor that the rotor will rotate - pay attention to how far it rotates and the direction it rotates.
*  Using a new gasket, install the new distributor in the same orientation, with the rotor pointing in the same direction as the old distributor.  (When you're done the vacuum advance and distributor rotor should be oriented the same as the original distributor before it was removed).
*  Install the new cap, plug in the wires starting with #1, set the timing, lock the distributor down and your done.
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline 454Man

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2012, 07:13:36 PM »
Just remember if the distributor doesnt sit down all the way get that flat head out and turn the oil pump rod

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #19 on: May 09, 2012, 09:01:56 PM »
Yep, I was right (I knew most of that, but it's been a while).

I'll be using the first since I took the hole thing out today (and remembered after that I didn't have the needed info to put it back :-\)
K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!

Offline bd

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2012, 11:05:11 PM »
Oops!  Well at least you've got friends here who will help you when you need it.  They're a good bunch.   :D
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #21 on: May 10, 2012, 07:23:14 AM »
Yup. You guys are great. Thanks for helping the newbie :)
K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #22 on: May 11, 2012, 10:03:22 AM »
Ah, what do you do with the bad distributor?
K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!

Offline bd

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #23 on: May 11, 2012, 10:50:49 AM »
Barn decoration!   ;D
Rich
It's difficult to know just how much you don't know until you know it.
In other words... if people learn by making mistakes, by now I should know just about everything!!!
87 R10 Silverado Fleetside 355 MPFI 700R4 3.42 Locker (aka Rusty, aka Mater)

Offline TexasRed

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #24 on: May 11, 2012, 11:38:33 AM »
If it's a stock distributor, I may take the weights and center plate. Do you know what number is stamped on them??

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2012, 05:27:49 PM »
Not off the top of my head but I'll check and get back to you.
K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!

Offline Farm boy

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Re: Truck engine cutting out
« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2012, 06:29:14 PM »
The numbers are: 1103274 and 8b28

Does that help? If not i think I'll just recycle the metal (that copper coil should be worth something;).

K10-350 w/Holley 4bl, 350th, 33-12.5-15s, blue)-parting out
K10-350 w/Holly 4bl, bad th350 swapping to sm465, 33-12.5-15s, CAMO!