73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: murraygmc on December 08, 2008, 07:06:32 pm
-
Does anyone ever still use acrylic enamel ( single stage ) iv not had any real good luck finding any ???
-
http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html
-
um-ok really didn't say a price or let me look at colors but thanks i might b able to work around that site
-
I deal with four different auto parts stores for my paint stuff. They all still mix single stage. One place mixes Duponts, Centari, Chroma One, and Imron. PPG, and their of brand Omni. I can get Martin Senior, and factory pack Transtar at my local NAPA. Another place I deal with has Sherwin Williams 2nd dimension.
-
blazen whats up man !! i hear your the premier body man hear ;D so if some one was going to paint a charcol how perfect dose the body need to be cause white show es the least imperfections right ? what would b the cheapest but Best finish (if there is one ) and what do you recommend iv painted a few s10 blazers but it hasn't Ben on my dime iv got 4 yrs experience spraying lacquer on metal in a factory but thats neather hear nor there PS iv got a 2 1/2 gallon spray pot clean but u probably will tell me to get a gravity gun how much primer would it take from bumper to bumper and the same 4 paint
sorry thats a lot to swallow just glad to talk to you
-
Charcoal is still dark. the darker the more shows up. White, yellow, and silver are the best for hiding sins.
Silver is the hardest to spray because it is almost all metallic. Charcoal falls into this category as well. Allot of metallic. I like single stage for work trucks / daily drivers because its durable, cheap enough, and less work than base clear. I am a fan of Imron myself, its very durable, sprays really nice, and is easy to work with. It is however not cheap. As far as middle of the road cruiser or show truck its a no brainier. base Clear. I like gravity feeds because they don't blast all kinds of paint into the air. most of it goes on the rig. Spray pots are good for trailers / box trucks etc. As far as primer it depends on how many repairs you are covering? Or are you stripping the whole thing to bare metal? Depends on what you chose for primer. I like a self etching primer, then a urethane high build primer. If its a restoration I spray several coats of urethane primer, then I block sand the entire rig with 180, taking 755 or more off. Then I spray four or so more coats of urethane. Then finish sand that one way or another.
Same goes for paint. depends on the brand / mix ratio, how experienced a painter you are, the hiding capeabilities of the color you use, if you tinted the primer, if its single stage or base clear. If its base clear you will use less paint but as much clear as you would single stage over top of the color.
-
thank you so much ;D i kinda got your point on how the end product is gonna reflect the pain staking prep i do plan on going down to bare metal iv got the hood and cal and tail gate done so fare i to used self etching primer but then i sprayed primer sealer the only real scary thing I'm concerned about is the cab corners i just need to man up and replace them on my own cause my bigest thing I'm worried bout is My budget id love to find a new bed or some real nice bed sides cause the bed pan is almost perfect ..... could you tell me a Little bit More about single stage paint tho i think i could go with the charcoal the panels are really straight but your my deciding factor lol it will b a while be for I'm ready for paint i just want to get my ducks in a row thanks agan ;)
-
The higher your metallic is the easier it is to get what they call Tiger Stripes. Light and dark stripes horizontally. You have to be careful to over lap each pass plenty, but still not run it. Plus after every panel you spray, you go back to the last panel and spray a fast coat a little farther away from the panel at a 45 degree angle.
-
ok so im guesing you spend alot of time walking from bumper to bumper lol iv sprayed a red metallic it didnt come out to bad but that was a nightmear the guy didnt want to even spray primer so i sprayed it as is i was verry pleased concerding it was two tone lt brown and drk brown in the midel and it coverd (wow) but to say the least it was thick i only had one sag had bout 7 coats 2 lol we need a paint section just a idea thanks blazin
-
My first car. I learned to paint cars via this one, since it kept finding its way off the road and trees growing up in front of it ;D
I used acrylic enamel and was quite proud of my work as a teenager.
(http://www.delbridge.net/68a.jpg)
-
I like single stage because it is basically a clear coat with color mixed in. I can hammer it on with very little runs. I sprayed color/clear on my sons truck and found it to be MUCH more work with the prep.
This is with color and clear (small metallics in the blue):
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001183.jpg)
All the black you see is single stage black:
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001311.jpg)
(http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o317/jjsabol/IM001310.jpg)
I used Southern Polyurethane paint system
see: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm
-
Sadly, Southern Polyurathanes quit selling color coats.
-
I didn't know that :o.
Their color selection was VERY limited.
Their tech manuals say that you can use anyones color coat over their sealer and with their clear.
I used their vipor blue and had trouble getting another gallon when I ran out. The owner Berry is VERY accessible and helped me out. ;D
I have no problems recommending them - I like their products over PPG and less expensive.
No I do not work for them :D
I just checked - they still sell their pure white and black single stage paints.
-
I mix brands all the time. Even when mixing a paint or primer. As long as its the same base product like acrylic, or urethane product 9 time out of 10 it will work just the same as the correct brand of the same type.