73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Topic started by: 4chevyman on December 19, 2008, 07:25:49 pm
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I've got a '76 and I can't get the headlight switch knob off so that I can remove the switch. I used 2 pair of pliers and pulled tugged and twisted but can't get it off. Any ideas?
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Reaching behind instrument cluster, depress shaft retaining button and remove switch knob and rod.
Remove left side instrument cluster bezel screws, then pull outward on bezel and hold switch retaining nut with wrench. Disconnect wiring connector, then rotate switch counterclockwise and remove from vehicle.
Reverse procedure to install.
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Thanks! I'll give it a try in the morning. I guess the weather is nasty in CT. Was in the 70's here in Alabama today.
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Yeah, what Vile said....there is a little button if you can twist your hand enough to reach it...press your thumb on the spring-button and the knob stem should slide right out.
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Reaching behind instrument cluster, depress shaft retaining button and remove switch knob and rod.
Remove left side instrument cluster bezel screws, then pull outward on bezel and hold switch retaining nut with wrench. Disconnect wiring connector, then rotate switch counterclockwise and remove from vehicle.
Reverse procedure to install.
You've got one of the big dealer books, don't ya.
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Took this pic while getting my truck ready for paint... Its the thing inside the yellow circle. you're looking through the hole where the left lower vent in the dash bezel goes...
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t195/wes2880/78%20C20%20Rebuild%20Stuff/Headlightswitchknobreleasebutton.jpg)
Push the knob inward... press the button... while holding the buttton pull the knob out. some of them you have to press kinda hard. some are easy.
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Do yall think there are varying degrees of quality when it comes to purchasing a whole new headlight switch? You can get some for like $20, or you can pay closer to $70 for AC-Delco brand. I'm concerned about how well the dimmer would function on a new switch. I'd like to start dimming as soon as you start turning the knob, and have the dimming be spread all across that range. Might have to turn the knob a couple times but you'd be able to get the gauge lights right where you want them at nigh.
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I've used generic replacements a few times, only problem I have with them is if you take the switch rod off a lot like I tend to do, they reach a point where they don't reliably hold the rod in place..sometimes mine comes out in my hand and leaves my lights off, and I have to pop the switch handle back into the switch. For that reason, I never wait til I'm driving to turn my lights on. If I think I'm going to need my lights on, I turn em on before I take off..the two occasions I've had to turn em on after I'm on the road since I started doing that, I've pulled the switch out slowly so if it came off, I'd just have to push it right back and try again. It always stays in for the second pull. Dimmer operation works fine, the OEM switch dimmer had dead spots in it.
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Yeah my dimmer has a couple dead spots in it. Its probly the OEM one. I too would probably want to take my switch out a time or two working on things.