73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Blazers/Jimmys => Topic started by: frogman68 on December 25, 2008, 02:46:37 pm
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Took the seats out of the Blazer and the passenger side has a steel plate driver side has pieces of aluminum . are they suppose to be there ? or was this added for strength since the floor is bad ?
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1140.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1141.jpg)
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hey frog i have not messed with a blazer much but i am sure that is a peace of metal that someone put there i would unbuilt it and see what you got ;)
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hey frog i have not messed with a blazer much but i am sure that is a peace of metal that someone put there i would unbuilt it and see what you got ;)
thanks I know whats underneath :) Lots of ROT if it is suppose to be there I will put em back after I fix the rot
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that is what i thought someone getting out the easy way and just covering up the rot >:(
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Looks like someone bolted a speed limit sign to your floor for a cheesy rot repair.
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Not a Stop Sign its like 1/8 maybe 3/16 plate steel on the passenger side I will say its not suppose to be there and not put it back :) thanks
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Question for the Body people as I have no clue ;D
The rear cab mount I just ordered 2 they state they are 17 inches long which gives 34 inches what goes in the middle ? I havent measured it but its got to be close to 6 feet
Thinking either square tube or angle iron
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Is it bad all the way across?
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Is it bad all the way across?
What I can reach feels pretty soft I think this thing is going to be called the Rusty Bucket lol the original owner towed a boat and launched it in salt water and never washed the bottom of it plus it was NJ truck
Just got some 1 inch square tubing 1/16 thick for the rear floor supports I will get some pics was just too embarrassed as this was the truck I learned to weld on and I "Fabbed" it together to pass inspection
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hi,
i just put the rear cab mount patch on my blazer. they are just for the outside edges. usually that is where the rot is. They are slip on. So just cut out what is rotten only. I have a really junky blazer that i did front and rear cab supports, floors, body mounts, cargo area , and tail pan. How is your tail pan? mine was rusted to oblivion. :o
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hi,
i just put the rear cab mount patch on my blazer. they are just for the outside edges. usually that is where the rot is. They are slip on. So just cut out what is rotten only. I have a really junky blazer that i did front and rear cab supports, floors, body mounts, cargo area , and tail pan. How is your tail pan? mine was rusted to oblivion. :o
Everything is shot!!! This rust bucket needs (which I got today) from the (what) tailpan forward all gone floor supports which I will have to make other parts that I have no idea what they are called and arent made I will have to make. My biggest "problem" according to my wife is I over engineer the stuff I make :) here is a example.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/bedsup01.jpg)
Looked like it was made out of 16 ga steel but both sides are shot it goes up to the "bed"
I took some 2 inch (1/8 thick) angle iron and made a new and improved one :)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/bedsup02.jpg)
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nice job. looks good. i did mine with a 2" sqare tube and cut one side off to make the channel . i want to upload some pics for you. might give you some ideas for making your pieces. i just have to find my usb cord for my camera ???
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nice job. looks good. i did mine with a 2" sqare tube and cut one side off to make the channel . i want to upload some pics for you. might give you some ideas for making your pieces. i just have to find my usb cord for my camera ???
Thanks
Last piece I have to make for underneath is a "inner cab corner" not sure if that is what its called on a Blazer lol but it connects the rocker to the rear cab mount and the rear quarter . I have "rebuilt" the bottom of the pillar since that was gone but going to take that apart and hopefully do a better job .
Tomorrow getting up and coating all the floor pieces with Chassis Saver then cutting the tailgate out :) its welded to the floor it was the only way I could see how to fix it before I found this site :) I am hoping to get the new tailpan in and hopefully the two rear floor pieces in. going to cut small sections of the floor out and put in the 1 in square tube in so the bed doesnt cave in :)
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Ya know, I know it's a shot in the dark. Your floor boards look familiar. A fella I knew a while back (10yrs or so)was puttin panals like that into a (I think) white and grey Blazer. His name was Elliott. This wouldn't happen to be the same one would it?
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Ya know, I know it's a shot in the dark. Your floor boards look familiar. A fella I knew a while back (10yrs or so)was puttin panals like that into a (I think) white and grey Blazer. His name was Elliott. This wouldn't happen to be the same one would it?
Nope this was a Jersey truck and towed a boat to salt water and wasnt washed afterwards
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frogman,
have you made any progress since your last post? Are you going to take out the whole floor. looks pretty bad there in the "inner cab area". i'm going outside now to see if i can get you some pics of my recent blazer repair.
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heres pics of my recent repairs frogman, let me know what you think
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00519.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00522.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00521.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00520.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00523.jpg)
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00524.jpg)
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No real progress I have been fighting the cold (air tools keep freezing) that is some great pics it is like looking in (hopefully the near future) a mirror :)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psjam01.jpg)
on pic 2 did you put anything between the two bed mounts ? I am thinking of putting some 1 inch square tube in the to bolt the floor too. Hopefully by tonight I will have the 2 body mounts in and some replacement bed supports in.
Thanks
Brian
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brian,
you are talking about the channel piece pictured? if you see closely i put a piece of 14 gauge flat steel where the crossing bed support was rusted out. the rest of it was ok. you can see the plug welds starting to rust :-[
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brian,
you are talking about the channel piece pictured? if you see closely i put a piece of 14 gauge flat steel where the crossing bed support was rusted out. the rest of it was ok. you can see the plug welds starting to rust :-[
sorry i meant across the top were the floor bolts in mine is completly gone will take a pic getting ready to go out and do some drilling
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hi heres what the underside of the cargo repair looks like. 18 gauge sheet, 14 gauge reinforcing for body mounts.
and square tubes for support. the reinforcing of the body mount is also attached to the front square tube. you can see in the picture if you look closely.
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00525.jpg)
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Havent got the far back this beast is fighting me tooth a nail :) thinking I will replace the inner and outer rear wheel wells so I can stop trying to drill the spot welds out think we (me and my son) got like 4 done lol
I got the old supports out and just layed in the new ones I can see its off like a 1/2 inch and the ones I made are within a 1/16 of each other I will shim it to level then weld them in I need to put some angle iron where they mount at the bottom they are pretty rusty too.
here is the front bed support which is really not there.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/bedsup04.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/bedsup05.jpg)
Once these bed supports are level I am thinking I should put the tail pan in and make it level with these bed supports I will have to lift the whole body since it has dropped and actually move almost a inch towards the driver side
Thanks Again
Brian
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wow,
that is rusty , even worse than mine (LOL). i wouldn't replace the wheel wells unless they are bad. It will make a lot more work. you can cut the floor flush and grind the spot welds . actually goes pretty quick that way. my front bed support was bad on another blazer, like yours. I had a local metal shop make one for me for 125.00. It saved me a lot of work. here's the pick. Keep the faith. I am just an amateur . Any body else please chime in.
Jeff
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00526.jpg)
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The wheel wheels have some rust and since I want to do this right might as well change em so there is no rust what so ever.
I am taking a break since I might have screwed up and want a minute before I go too far :)
Starting welding in the new bed support thingie that I made and I looked and was thinking what is holding the back and the front together besides the cap? The "B" pillar ? that has some rot so I dont think that will hold. I am about to unbolt all body mounts so I can jack the body level :)
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Holy crap. That thing is rusty. You can buy the whole rear floor to replace it. I would think that would be allot less work than all that fabrication. Fab is great when its only a few spots, but when you have that much rust its time for replacement parts. I have rebuilt the back end where the gate hinges go before with 1/4 wall box tubing. Also done some patching behind the front seats but boht of those Blazers where in relitivly good shape.
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Holy crap. That thing is rusty. You can buy the whole rear floor to replace it. I would think that would be allot less work than all that fabrication. Fab is great when its only a few spots, but when you have that much rust its time for replacement parts. I have rebuilt the back end where the gate hinges go before with 1/4 wall box tubing. Also done some patching behind the front seats but boht of those Blazers where in relitivly good shape.
I am replacing the whole floor the only thing I have to fab are the parts Chris cant get :) most of the floor supports are gone I am going to make some out of 1/16 square tubing.
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Hi Brian,
This is how i attacked mine. I did one side at a time. I took rocker, floor, cab supports and fender off of one side and any other rusty metal i was going to replace in the cab area. Since it had no support at all at that point i used a jack and a 2x4 and adusted to what i needed to put the rocker panel on. To me the Rocker panel is like the keystone of an arch , it keeps the cab together. i also had removed the supporting piece that runs the length of the floor and attaches to the cab supports (needed restoration). all the body mounts on one side were removed so i could jack it up this way.
As far as the body mounts go, i had to fabricate pieces to go on the body mount brackets that attach to the frame because they were rusted too bad. i also replaced all the body mounts. they too were rotted and rusted out. This is critical to make sure the rest of your work comes out ok.
I started with the cab and got every thing the way it is supposed to be then the cargo area. i didn't do the body mounts on the bed until i got them all done on the cab. Then you wont have to fight the sag in the rear. That goes for the tailpan also.
mine was sunken 2-3 inches in the rear from bad body mounts and rusted out supports.
heres a picture of mine with all the parts on one side removed.
keep the faith,
jeff
(http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq99/jeffreylberry/DSC00487.jpg)
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Thanks again..
I have two 20 ton bottle jacks on the front (one each side) and a engine hoist with a 4X4 in the back just doesnt seem to want to move (all 8 bolts are out) there is no tail pan left and not sure how much of the tailgate post is there (didnt measure yet to the new ones)
I will cut in the rockers this weekend (P.S is screwed in) then put a 4x4 through the glass since it seems that with as much rot on the floors the jack is just crushing it..
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Dang, I got here too late to see the pictures.
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what ya mean to late I can still look at pics!