73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: grinder1989 on December 25, 2008, 03:19:35 pm
-
How do they work? Are they really worth it? I'm considering them for my truck because I'll be taking it to the strip this spring.
-
Yes if you're taking it to the track and have a leaf spring suspension. I was going to do a link suspension in my 74 but for now am going to use them myself.
-
Yea I have leaf springs. How exactly do they work though?
-
(http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/chucker54_2034_7515683)
Tremendous benefits can be realized when the CALTRACS traction bar system is installed on a leaf spring suspended automobile. CALTRACS traction bars were developed to achieve specific goals to improve high power traction while staying within hard set NHRA parameters.
Each of the two assemblies needed is comprised of three basic components:
1.Front Pivot
2.Force Transfer Link
3.Rear Mount
The combination of these components changes the pushing point on the car by redirecting the turning action (spring wrap-up) of the rear axle through the Force Transfer Link into the Front Pivot. The Front Pivot Spring Stop Bolt resists this turning motion and also controls the bending of the leaf spring at its thinnest section. The push into the Front Pivot helps the cars weight shift towards the rear of the car because of a new directed angle of force toward the front of the vehicle. (The "Instant Center" moves farther forward). This is where the system emulates a Four link system. The pinion angle is also maintained.
1. The Front Pivot
Two steel plates sandwich the leaf spring sides. Two attach points in the plates provide the user with a selection in which the forward Force Transfer Link rod end can be located. A machined aluminum spring eye bushing and steel insert supports the front of the spring while allowing the plates to pivot. A spring stop bolt controls and restricts spring wrap-up. Spacers are provided for different vehicle applications that control clearances in the front spring eye pocket.
2. Force Transfer Link
This is a length of chromolly tubing with CNC machined threaded inserts TIG welded into each end. The front Insert is machined with right hand Threads and a HEX outer shape for Simple wrench adjustment of the Installed assembly. The rear insert is Left hand threaded. Opposite thread Styles at each end provide the means to easily lengthen or shorten the link for desired pre-load adjustment.
3. Rear Mount
A welded ¼" steel assembly replaces the original vehicles spring perch and incorporates the mounting provisions for the rear rod end of the Force Transfer Link.
Rear Shocks for Cal Trac/Mono Leaf equipped Suspensions
Racers looking to optimize their Cal Trac set-ups with mono leaf springs should consider purchase of the Rancho RS9000X adjustable shock absorber with 9 position adjustment technology.
Cal Trac recommends Rancho Shocks based on development testing and racer feedback and consider the Rancho to be the best shock for their suspension set-up. The patented 9 position adjustment feature provides just the right proportion of extension to compression travel providing the proper shock control based on setting to track condition..
Typically a setting between 5 & 9 would be suitable for a hooking track providing more restriction to extension movement. A setting between 5 & 2 would be required on a slippery track providing less restriction to movement during launch.
-
Nifty. I'm going to get a set for sure. Thanks.
-
Yes, They work well...You can buy them from the Capt. He's a distributor for them. Lorne
-
http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=7&Category_Code=7387SUSP
-
Yea I saw them on there that's what I was asking. I want the non flip ones right?
-
This would depend on if your rear axle has been "flipped" to on top of the springs to lower the truck. If your rear axle is still below the springs (the way it was made) then you would want the non-flip ones. Lorne
-
Is there a benefit to flipping it? It seems like an easy thing to do? Should I flip it or not?
Thanks for the help guys, you are all so helpful. :)
-
The axle flip is used for lowering the truck. I believe just a standard flip drops it about 5-6 inches, but not sure
-
The axle flip is used for lowering the truck. I believe just a standard flip drops it about 5-6 inches, but not sure
It's pretty easy to do right? Combined with drop spindles, that would look sick...
-
I havent done it yet, but I believe it requires cutting the old spring perches off and welding new ones to the bottom of the axle. Shouldnt be hard if you have a welder.
-
My axle on my 74 is flipped and there is no welding required although you can if you want too.
-
My axle on my 74 is flipped and there is no welding required although you can if you want too.
Details? Pics? I'd like to do it. Do you hit the frame over bumps? Is there still a lot of tire clearance?
-
Mine is flipped also and there is no welding required. You just use the saddle mount for the flip for a kit. I HIGHLY recommend notching the frame if you ever intend to carry anything in the back.
-
Mine is flipped also and there is no welding required. You just use the saddle mount for the flip for a kit. I HIGHLY recommend notching the frame if you ever intend to carry anything in the back.
I'll be using my truck for the strip for the most part. I'll have about 600 pounds in it but manly just at the strip. Would stiffer springs help out? What shocks should I use after I flip it?
-
I flipped mine and used shock extenders with lowering shocks. I also replaced my leaf springs but removed the overload spring. It made a huge difference and I would recommend replacing the factory worn out leaves.
-
Do you hit the frame at all?
-
I moved the factory bump stops back a little bit so if I do I'll hit them first. I did hit the bump stops before I replaced the springs but since then it rides/handles nice. I do need better front shocks though. I'll see if I can snap a few pix of my set up
-
Grinder, What are you doing with the 600lbs. Ballast? :-\ Lorne
-
Spare engine. Always be prepared.
-
Grinder, What are you doing with the 600lbs. Ballast? :-\ Lorne
No decision yet. I put sand bags in for the winter but I won't need them. I'd like to carry things from place to place only if I have to. I just don't want my frame to hit and I can't afford to notch it right now.
-
I moved the factory bump stops back a little bit so if I do I'll hit them first. I did hit the bump stops before I replaced the springs but since then it rides/handles nice. I do need better front shocks though. I'll see if I can snap a few pix of my set up
So, new springs, new shocks, shock extenders?, moving bump stops, a flip kit and the traction bars. As well as drop spindles for the front to even everything out. :( I need to make some more money lol.
-
So when you guys flip the rear end, you keep the Factory hangers and shackles??
-
So when you guys flip the rear end, you keep the Factory hangers and shackles??
Yes, no need for those with a 5-7" drop.
-
So when you guys flip the rear end, you keep the Factory hangers and shackles??
Yes, no need for those with a 5-7" drop.
glad I kept my old stuff..thanks for info
-
Spare engine. Always be prepared.
nah, he's got a Chevy...not a Ford
-
I'm still confused on the shock extenders...
-
Shock extenders allow you to use a normal application shock on the truck instead of dropped shocks.
-
Measure the factory distance the shock has with the truck on the ground. Then measure your travel. You should have the same after you flip the axle.
-
Who makes the best quality flip kit out there? Or who has used what, and their experience with the product, fit and finish.
-
I got mine from summit. I forget who makes it but it worked good. I also replaced my springs which made a big difference.
-
Where'd ya get the springs from. I think I'd like to play with different rates someday (both front and rear), but I wouldn't know where to start. And I'm not sure I trust Eaton Detroit spring to make the decision for me.
-
I went down to Super Spring & Brake Co Inc in East Hartford CT. I measured what I wanted and he gave me a few extra centering pins so I could add or remove as many leafs as I wanted. I just removed the overload spring and it worked perfect.
-
So was the spring rate was basically stock before removing the overload? Was this simply a change in spring arch to fine tune the ride height?
-
All I did was remove the overloads also. The overload didn't seem to change the height much more than the actual thickness of it, (maybe another 1/4" or so) but the ride (harshness) after hitting a bump improved conciderably. Adding the Rancho shocks dampened the bit of bounce it had. I also have the front portion of the springs clamped which lowered the truck a little bit, but also helped control the wheelhop. I may try removing one more leaf & see if the shock can control the bounce once this White stuff goes away. What I noticed with the overload gone is that just a couple/few hundred pounds really drops the truck where before a couple hundred seemed to be what took the harshness out of the springs & it started to ride pretty nice. Have Fun, Lorne
-
Western, DJM, Belltech, etc are all about the same as far as flip kits. You could even make your own if you wanted.
On springs I had Steve Chisholm of Steve's Suspension build mine, but had him put the drop in them without a flip.