73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: frogman68 on December 28, 2008, 02:21:47 pm
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after cutting a grinding for the last 6 hours I think I am ready to weld it in but Mother Nature opened a cloud so I didnt bring the welder out . Does this look like its lined up to the bottom of the door correctly? the back needs to be adjusted (going up the door jam) but I think I can tweak it when I start welding♠
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psrocker05.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psrocker04.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psrocker03.jpg)
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(1) Where are your plug weld holes?
(2) Don't weld anything until you have your cab corner fitted perfect too.
(3) Screw everything in place with self drilling / tapping screws then weld.
Did you allready replace the inner rocker or is it in good shape?
Once you start welding its to late to tweak things.
Notice the plug weld holes along the bottom, also in the door jamb area of the rocker to weld it down to the inner rocker / floor board. Also trimed down, only use what you need.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/5RazorHillK20rockertrimedandplugwel.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/6RazorHillK20rockertrimedandplugwel.jpg)
Cab corner trimmed and plug weld hole drilled.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/8RazorHillK20cabcornertrimedanddril.jpg)
Screwed / clamped in place.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/7RazorHillK20rockerscrewedclampedin.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/9RazorHillK20cabcornerclampedandscr.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/10RazorHillK20cabcornerclampedandsc.jpg)
Welded.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/11RazorHillK20cabcornerrockerwelded.jpg)
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/12RazorHillK20cabcornerrockerwelded.jpg)
Primed, & seam sealed.
(http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q165/BlazinK30/Chevy%20truck%20rocker%20cab%20corner%20replace/15RazorHillK20finishprimedjointseam.jpg)
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Personally I would like to see a bigger gap between the rocker & the door. The variation in clearances when these trucks were new was not great, now that they have been tweaked, sagged & everything else... a little more couldn't hurt. We haven't mentioned the aftermarket parts variations yet either. I like to use the door that will be used when the job is done for aligning the rocker/cab corner, this way at least until the door needs changed for some reason you have good gaps. Lorne
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Blazin I forgot to mention this is a Blazer no cab corner the (if they call it on a Blazer) inner cab corner is shot I am waiting to see if Chris can get them or I will have to make one I was going to plug weld it I was going to butt weld the new and old metal is perfectly lined up so no bump between the two
Thanks, I guess the rain shower was a good thing so I can tweak it before welding
Haulin how much of a gap would leave it is just screwed in for now
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nice work man i hope i can do that good
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1/4", about twice what you have by the looks of it. There is no need to butt weld where your attaching the rocker, except the last 2 flats that goes to/under the cab corner/side panel. If you cut the new rocker (as low as possible) line it up, draw a line around it on the old panel, then cut the old panel off 3/8" or so to the inward side, this will leave a "backer" to weld to. On the sharp corners, (once you have a few tacks on) just cut through the old rocker at the edge of the new rocker 1/4" or so going each way from the corner & tap the new panel downward a little & weld it up. I do as much of the welding from the bottom as possible (bottom lip, going up the back-inner edge of the cab corner ect.) welding & grinding it isn't as much fun, but no holes to fill & finish. Have Fun! Lorne
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I heard it was around 3/16" but not quite sure.
Blazin, are plug weld holes another way to "spot weld" when you don't have a spot welder?
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1/4", about twice what you have by the looks of it. There is no need to butt weld where your attaching the rocker, except the last 2 flats that goes to/under the cab corner/side panel. If you cut the new rocker (as low as possible) line it up, draw a line around it on the old panel, then cut the old panel off 3/8" or so to the inward side, this will leave a "backer" to weld to. On the sharp corners, (once you have a few tacks on) just cut through the old rocker at the edge of the new rocker 1/4" or so going each way from the corner & tap the new panel downward a little & weld it up. I do as much of the welding from the bottom as possible (bottom lip, going up the back-inner edge of the cab corner ect.) welding & grinding it isn't as much fun, but no holes to fill & finish. Have Fun! Lorne
Doh dont have enough material to drop it a quarter of a inch I guess thats why you shouldnt butt weld :)
My stupid thinking was if its butt welded you only have to grind the weld down and then maybe a scratch coat of Bondo.
Here is the first thing I fixed on the body I just threw that primer on it because rain was coming :)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psgutter01.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psgutter02.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/psgutter03.jpg)
figured if I over lap then I will have to put more bondo on it I tried flanging the pieces but still didnt meet flush so I went to butt welding :)
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Well in your case the cab corner would be the lower section of the rear quarter. I should have seen that in the pics! As far as the spot up high I would have butt welded that too. It s bad spot to have build up of material on. Agreed on the gap. Should be about twice what you have. Yes plug weld holes take the place of spot welds. Spot welds are done without a hole. In order to duplicate them with a mig you need to drill the holes.
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That's what I thought, thanks
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Ok take 2 on the rocker :) went out and readjusted is this better ? Back by the door is still a issue but if I move it back it throws the rest off once I start tacking it I might try tapping it with a ball peen to see if it will go back :)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1161.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/DSCF1162.jpg)
Thanks
Brian
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Ball Peen??? Don't you mean body hammer??
that you should be able to encourage back even with it just screwed in place. A little relief cut down the high point and inch or two might help as well. then just stitch it back closed while welding.
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Ball Peen??? Don't you mean body hammer??
that you should be able to encourage back even with it just screwed in place. A little relief cut down the high point and inch or two might help as well. then just stitch it back closed while welding.
20 oz ball peen is my body hammer :) I think that part is figured out the replacement part of the rear quarter has a 90 lip on it , it wont go in unless I cut that part of the rocker off :)
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I wouldn't cut it off. I would slice it down enough to push it back. The plug weld the face of the patch to it. You should invest in a body hammer set, with some dollies. Well worth the money.
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I wouldn't cut it off. I would slice it down enough to push it back. The plug weld the face of the patch to it. You should invest in a body hammer set, with some dollies. Well worth the money.
You wouldnt consider these "body hammers"?
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/36500-36599/36523.gif)
I was thinking of using this if it dont go right
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/95100-95199/95129.gif)
I will take a trip to harbor freight today thanks for the tip
I cant put a slice in the rocker it goes from the top of the rocker to the bottom the positive of cutting it off is I can get the door gap right at the bottom were the rocker and quarter panel come together. Since I have to make a piece like a inner cab corner that is where I will have the rocker and quarter panel connect together.
I have the rocker on hold for now I am debating if I should recut it since I have a another one for the Beast project that is on hold
Anyone ever use this ?
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/65300-65399/65316.gif)
since there is so much rust if this will bust the spot welds
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i got one of them seam tools for christmas but have not used it yet
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Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.
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Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.
I bought one of these and a spot weld cutter I might (emphasize on might :) ) be getting a handle on body work ..
Thanks again
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:( I screwed the first rocker up by cutting it short so I put it in like it was suppose to (the way it looked right) and measured how short it was 5/16 so I already ordered another one for the never work on project. I took the one I cut short and put it on a level floor measured at all the corners then did the same for the new one adding a 1/2 in (so in theory it should be 3/16 to big) go and put it on and it is still to &%&#^@ short by 5/16 what am I doing wrong ? There really is not much left in the area of the rockers to hold it to.
Thanks
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Those work good but the spot welds need to be drilled out first with a spot weld cutter.
I bought one of these and a spot weld cutter I might (emphasize on might :) ) be getting a handle on body work ..
Thanks again
To find spot welds under heavy painted panels use a grinder/ sander with a medium paper. lightly buff all the edges until all you have left are round painted welds! easy peasy ;D If you haven't got a spot welder and use a mig to do the job, as blazin said drill a smallish hole (i'm no good with sizes!) but only through the top panel. Make sure you have a good earth on the back panel and weld onto the back panel 1st then swirl the weld thru into the front panel! Hope that makes sense ;)
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Frogman, I'd really like to see you get through this! Unless you measured wrong somehow, the only other thought I have is that the lower portion (below the fold that you see with the door closed), likely the bottom lip is wider on the new rocker & when you laid it out, the distance from the door gap upward got cheated, maybe?
Not that this is your too short problem, but do you have a properly mounted & working door? Bushings are good, door isn't drooped. One problem on some pretty rotted ones is that the bottom of the cowl opens up (goes forward) & the upper hinge area rolls back. On the "bad ones" I get the body back into place (porta power, come along, ect.) & weld an angle iron from front to back on the inside of the pinchweld. I you mount it in the right place, the door (with trim panel & all) can be opened & shut while you work. Once the rocker, floor, mount, braces, ect. are in...cut the angle iron out. Good Luck! Third time's a charm, Lorne
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Well no luck with the woodruff key so back to the body work. I got it cut right but I could either have the bottom of the rocker line up flush with the door or have the rocker line up with the body lines inside the door I went with the body line. Be easy it was my first (really third if you count the two failures :) )
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rocker1.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rocker2.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rocker.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rocker3.jpg)
Thanks for the help everyone now to the "hard" side..
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nice work man i can not wait to start that :)
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There must be a Rocker Fairy. Went to work on the rust bucket today and when I went to line up the rear quarter I noticed the Rocker was almost perfect. Went and looked at the pics I took and yes the fit is alot better
Today
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/fairy.jpg)
when I welded it
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rocker.jpg)
not sure if when it cooled it moved or what but I am happy.
Had to make a inner piece for the rocker and rear quarter to attach too I think it came out good
Old piece
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/oldin.jpg)
After making a template out of construction paper this is what I ended up with I think it was pretty close
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/cut.jpg)
Here is a test fit of it in the rear quarter panel piece
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/testfit.jpg)
Here it is mounted in the truck I used some 2 inch by 1/8 thick angle iron think that will be a little stronger
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/rearcbmtout.jpg)
for the inside just used a piece of 16 ga steel
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/inrearcabmt.jpg)
After (it seemed like hours :) ) of cutting then grinding to get the rear quarter patch to fit close (had to trim the end of the rocker)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/fcut.jpg)
Here it is tacked in, I flanged the upper part that remained so the bondo or whatever I use will fill in my imperfections..
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/tacked.jpg)
I think its ready for bondo the sun started to set so I had to call it a day
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/bondoready.jpg)
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Fair play m8, that looks a whole lot better!!
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Yes, You seem to be on a better plan. One thing that concerns me is in the picture where you have the door closed & the quarter patch installed...the gap in the Gray area looks good & then gets tight, then ok at the bottom tip. Has the door been poorly patched before? Your seam area on the quarter looks straight. As I mentioned before, I would not consider welding anything in without the door I was going to use (there are too many variables). At least when you paint the truck your panels will be the best you could make them...if a few years later, you need to replace a door, you may have a little bit of trouble (which is why I suggested a slightly bigger gap than you had originally, especially on the bottom), but why go through that compromise before you ever drive the truck?
On a side note, Hats off to you when you get it done... That's a rough pup! Saving One more for another "Go 'round". Lorne
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Looks pretty good. Just remember when you prep for body filler you need to grind it ( with 24 grit ) Up about18 plus inches from your weld to blend it in good. Di you over lap it? If so a few inches below the weld should be good. I you but welded it I would grind it down a ways too.
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Looks pretty good. Just remember when you prep for body filler you need to grind it ( with 24 grit ) Up about18 plus inches from your weld to blend it in good. Di you over lap it? If so a few inches below the weld should be good. I you but welded it I would grind it down a ways too.
Everyone here said to overlap so thats what I did :)
I flanged the over lap (over lap is about a 1/4 inch and the flange is 1/2) so I have a little indentation on the top
Another couple of question ( you knew it was coming) the front cab support does it go in before the floor or after ? how about the inner rocker ? I have like a 1/2 gap when I try now to put the front cab support in.
The piece that goes under the cab and mounts to the inner most bolt of the inner fender was rusted through lucky for me I had the one(s) I bought for the 76 just had to cut the end off (where the rear bench seat bolts too).
I am too tired to take pics but I think today was a pretty good day hopefully more pics sometime this week
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Well not really before or after. When I do a floor / rocker I have everything clamped or screwed in place before I fire up the welder. Some times I tack a few parts before hand. As far as the inner rocker and the floor support they should be tight against each other. Might have to do a little modification to make them so.