73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Lows (Lowering/Drops) => Topic started by: rockable on January 24, 2009, 05:38:58 pm
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I installed new springs from , new leafs and new coils. I double checked the p/n's and they are right.
I installed a DJM lowering kit with 3" drop spindle and 5" flip kit.
I worked my butt off this week and today. This is a kit for blacksmiths, by blacksmiths IMO. I had to disassemble, grind and reassemble more times than I'd like to count. (I thought the rear would be easier. Wrong. You should not attempt this if you don't have a compressor, air tools and grinders. It's a lot of work.)
Here's my problem. I finally dropped it off the jackstands at 6:00 and to my dismay, the front is higher than the rear and higher than it was before. (Before it had original springs that had a coil or coil and a half chopped off.) The rear looks right. I'd bet my next paycheck that the springs are properly seated in their perches. I'll double check that in the morning.
Will these springs settle down in a couple days? I know I didn't do anything wrong. What's up? Thanks for all the help, so far.
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Higher?! Did you put the spindles on upside down? ;D What exactly were you grinding?
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I don't think I did, but anything is possible at this point. The tie rod lever is supposed to be below the centerline of the spindple, isn't it? If so, I didn't put them on wrong.
I had to grind the spindle casting so that it would clear the wheels, 15 X 8 rallye wheels.
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Did you tighten the control arm bolts with the suspension hanging, meaning the jack/stands were under the frame & the weight was not on the suspension when you tightened the bolts? Lorne
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I didn't disconnect anyting on the LCA's except the ball joints. I did not loosen or disconnect the u-bolts.
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Rock,
if you got a camera take some pics and post them here.We could tell you a bit more if the pics were in front of us.
thanks
pat
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I'll take some in the morning. I changed two things, the springs and the spindles. The springs were about an inch or inch and a half longer in relaxed mode. I don't think I did anything wrong but I'm open to learning.
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Drive it around the block, it should settle a little.
If they were cut, you just guessed on the drop though you could have guessed wrong.
Do you have before/after pics?
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Ok, Cap'n. Second attempt at post.
I finished the final assembly and fabricated some new drop links for my rear sway bar today. Then, I did a rough front end alignment (It's still got a crapload of negative camber in the front.) and took it for a drive.
The ride is MUCH better and the handling is MUCH better. dang, it's amazing what happens when a suspension is allowed to work! Riding on the bump stops is not recommended!
After riding around a little, I checked it out. The front end settled some. If I put a torpedo level on the rocker seam below the driver's door, it measures level, for all intents and purposes. (The rear is definitely lower that where I started from.) I get the following measurements at the fender wells.
LF - 30" LR - 27 5/8" RF - 29 7/8" RR - 27 1/4".
I think the front will settle morre as I drive it. The new springs really lifted it up and, as we all know, that doesn't last forever. The question is, "How long does it last?"
No matter, I'm riding better now than I have since I bought this truck. If the front doesn't lower, I could raise the rear. I'll post some pics once I've got it "broken in".
Thanks for all the help from this forum!
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I've driven it around and it's essentiall level with the ground but it "looks" like the front end is higher due to the way the wheel openings are cut. I guess I'll drive it a while and see if it settles. If it doesn't, I can always cut half a coil off the front or raise the rear. :-\
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park it level and take a picture and post it.
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Here are the pics. Compare to the other pics in my original thread. The rear is defnitiely lower now. The front still seems too high to me. This is after I got it back from the alignment shop.
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I tried to modify my original message but couldn't get it to "take".
The rear is lower and the front is higher. I'd really like the front to be down about an inch and I'd really like to not buy new springs. What would y'all do? Will it settle some? Would you chop a wee bit off the front springs?
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What you have is roughly a 3/6 drop.
Were the springs supposed to be stock or lowered?
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Both front and rear springs are stock. The DJM manufacturer labels this a 3/5 drop kit. What to do?
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Cut 1.5 coils out of your front springs
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I put 3" drop spindles on it. Before, it had cut springs and it bottomed out. I don't want to go through that again. 1 1/2 sounds like a lot. I only want to drop it about an inch and I don't want the tires to rub the top of the wells.
I could raise the rear but that's gonna be a lot of work, too.
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You need 4" with a rear flip kit to make it level, for the majority of kits regardless of how companies label the amount of drop.
You can cut 1/2" coil off the bottom and see how it changes if it isn't enough cut another 1/4 off and work your way down. I personally would drive it for a day after cutting. The problem you had before is someone put all the drop in the spring, which is a bad idea.
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I am going to chime in here with my 2 cents.The truck was definetly lowered all the way around if front springs were cut they obviously were trying to lower it at miminum cost so i,m wondering if they also did the rear the same way (low cost) by moving the spring perches on the frame . If they did then adding your axle flip would then add 5 inches to whatever it was lowered if they did this.Check the rear frame and see if the perches have been moved
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You need 4" with a rear flip kit to make it level, for the majority of kits regardless of how companies label the amount of drop.
You can cut 1/2" coil off the bottom and see how it changes if it isn't enough cut another 1/4 off and work your way down. I personally would drive it for a day after cutting. The problem you had before is someone put all the drop in the spring, which is a bad idea.
I agree cut a 1/2 coil off and drive it for a day or two and then go from there. If you need more drop after that just go a little at a time so you dont get more than you want. BTW I think the rear looks good with no gap between the tire and the fender lip. Just get the front down to match ;D
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The rear perches have not been moved. Before, there were only 2 leaves left in the springs. I put new, full strength rear leaf springs in.
Who makes a 4" rear flip kit? That seems questionable. The kit I have is made of 1/2" flat stock and is crammed right up against the axle housing. I'm sure I can get a 4" kit that involves changing the original perches.
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There is no such thing as a 4" flip. There is only a flip kit. Generally you get 5-6" depending on the sag of the spring and the leaf pack count.
To get 4" you get a shackle/hanger setup. If you want it level and you are going to spend money just buy lowering coil springs. it will be cheaper and easier.
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Won't I have bump stop problems with lowering springs? What's the difference in that and cutting 1/2 -1 coil off?
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Her are my 2 cents, You should have no problems cutting a 1/2 coil out because that will only be about an inch. Just like Captkaos said start with 1/2 coil drive for a day or two and then reevaluate if you want to remove more but only 1/4 at a time. The way it was lowered before leads me to think that they previous owner hacked 1 1/2 to 2 coil off. I know this because I cut 1 1/2 and I dropped almost 3 3/4 inches and now I hit the bumps all the time. Well you already got 3 inches from the spindle so another inch by cutting should be no problem. Remember rule of thumb is 2 inches for every coil. 1/2 coil = 1 inch drop
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the front fender well is 1 7/8 (if i recall) higher than the rear in any situation, thats just how they are
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the front fender well is 1 7/8 (if i recall) higher than the rear in any situation, thats just how they are
Thats what I was going to say. Looking at the pictures it does appear that the front is higher but if you follow the bottom of the cab it`s pretty level. the taller cut on the front wheel wells makes it look like it`s sitting higher
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I'm thinking I'm gonna chop 1/2 a round off the front springs. It's the easiest thing to do and I like the way the rear is sitting. If I get an inch, I think I'm gonna like it.
I just wish I hadn't paid to get it aligned this week. Sigh. :-[
Do you think the tires will rub if I drop it an inch?
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They shouldn't rub with just an 1" drop. My 4/6 Didn't rub except on really harsh bumps with 275/60/15's.
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Thanks, Chris! I'll get 'er done this weekend, I hope. I'm really not anxious to redo the rear with a 4" kit. That's a lot more work.
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Ok. I cut 3/4 of a coil off and it lowered the front enough that I've got an ever so slight rake at the rocker seam, about 1/4 - 3/8". For all intents and purposes, it's level. It has ample front travel and I don't think I'll have any rubbing problems unless I hit the pothole from heck.
Thanks for all the help and moral support. :)
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The stock springs are what made the difference in the front. The originals were old and settled then someone cut them to lower the truck When putting stock springs back in it will actually lift the truck again for some time.
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That's why I'm happy with where it's at. I know it will settle some more over time. I just didn't want to drive it around looking like it did.
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This happens alot. Lots of people think they are set buying the complete 3/5 kit from djm. What most don't understand though is you also need to add drop springs to this kit to make it a 4/5 or 5/5. With just the spindles up front, and a flip in the rear, you are going to have that "boating effect" like you experienced. I am getting a flip kit, 2.5'' spindles, and 2'' springs to make it a 4.5/5 drop. Hopefully my 255/70/15 tires don't rub too bad up front while I save for 255/60s
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wow, a great thread. Rock, I like your garage/work area. Its ver clean and organized.
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Thanks. I built me a new Morton metal building this past year. It's got two 30X30 work areas for a total of 1800 sq ft. It's for housing cars and restoring them.....and pickups now.
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nice truck and I can't help but notice how clean it is. I also like your work area. keep posting the things you do to your truck
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what did you grind to make the stock rallys fit? you didnt grind the a arm channel did you?
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what did you grind to make the stock rallys fit? you didnt grind the a arm channel did you?
huh ??? ??? ???
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I am assuming he means the "lip" or "channel" that runs the perimeter of the a arms...
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Oh, it was the "spindle casting" as stated on the first page.
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alright just asking because i totaled one of my 87's becuase i grinded down the lower a-arm's "rain gutter"/channel to fit stock rallys when i switched to lowering spindles... going down the freeway and i felt the most unnerving thing, pulled over, looked under the bottom of the truck didnt see anything wiered, got back on the freeway and right about 50 the drivers side tire went left while i was steering strait and sucked me 3 lanes accross the highway almost strait into the concrete wall. killed the frame, fender, hood and bumper. the arm fatigued near the ball joint...
just throwing my experience out there.. never again will i grind a rain gutter...
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Oh snap! Definitely something to keep in mind.
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If it requires that much grinding you should reinforce the area.
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Cut it down with a die grider. Smooth it out then weld a bead around the perimeter. Mine came out mint.
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So basically if you get drop spindles you'll need to do this unless your going to use taller wheels correct?
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Most likely and you may need a wheel spacer.