73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: Antti on January 26, 2009, 01:20:43 am
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After having a '84 gmc 2wd as a daily driver for a few years, I started looking for a '73-'80 4wd longbed or suburban. In the autumn of 2007 I found this '78 that had pretty rusty body, but very decent frame, and a '92 6.2 diesel, sm-465 and np-205.
There's the truck how it was when I got it (pic taken by some former owner). It was lifted 4" w/ ranchos front/blocks rear.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXxR-ydCCAI/AAAAAAAAAKo/ObJLjLTMB_c/s720/6.8.2007%2B009.jpg)
First I got issues with fuel system. Now it has new fuel lines, cleaners, electric lift pump and rebuilt injectors and injection pump.
I also rebuilt both drive shafts and front axle shafts with new joints, installed new wheel bearings, and rebuilt the transfer case. The latter mainly because I wanted to twin stick it anyway. I also lowered the case a little to ease out the shafts.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuZ-vg7OxI/AAAAAAAAAJM/qfYQUXnn9r8/s720/P1010311.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuZ-dBNDhI/AAAAAAAAAJE/bqedkfG8ZT4/s720/P1010310.JPG)
I installed longer brake lines and removed the stabilizer because of the lift. Lifted steering arm and a new steering stabilizer were also necessities.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuWE4iey3I/AAAAAAAAAI0/hbdpmlH4zrA/s720/P1010306.JPG)
The truck had 35x12.5" tires on 10" rims. Two of the tires were really worn out. I got a set of new 285/75R16 tires on 7" cragar black soft wheels. The width of that combo is just perfect.
Recently I got rid of the high blocks and installed a shackle flip. A guy I know made those parts. It has 56" rear springs.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXudYQtwjUI/AAAAAAAAAJU/Ywz5j9rgFxo/s720/P1010302.JPG)
I just bought used 52" blazer rear springs to substitute the hard-as-a-rock rancho front springs to protect my spine.
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Currently I'm working with the body. I got better driverside bed side, bed floor and both fenders, for those parts were pretty bad. The cab I'm going to repair w/ new inner & outer rockers, front body mounts and cab corners. Of course it needs some minor patches too. Now It's stripped down to cab, but is still driveable.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SQC-wXI6uaI/AAAAAAAAADg/qmkYCZW_kDI/s720/P1010195.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SQC-wzZBtZI/AAAAAAAAADo/QTBv8JUd5yk/s720/P1010198.JPG)
The starting point looked like this.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SQC-xrEejGI/AAAAAAAAAD4/-Bp07hGXzuA/s720/P1010209.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SQC_hjQHLYI/AAAAAAAAAEM/kL92FocqrJo/s720/P1010208.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SQC_h7Aq8lI/AAAAAAAAAEU/xQxHGdzniB0/s720/P1010210.JPG)
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The passengerside is welded and the welds ground down. Then soldered with body lead and smoothed down.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuVTcCBTxI/AAAAAAAAAIc/sRACKU1SfM0/s720/P1010297.JPG)
I'm going to put more detailed pictures of the driver's side.
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The driverside prgressing. I'm a first-timer, so I didn't have the nerve to document every stage of the pas.side, which included lots of learning... :-\
First I cut off all the bad parts with an angle grinder and painted the metal that's gonna be covered by other parts. Since I was not taking the floor pans out, the front body mounts were PITAs to get out.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuVTPODb0I/AAAAAAAAAIU/VSq3YclzSEk/s720/P1010300.JPG)
Then tried on the new parts and cut them to fit. There you need to put the door temporarily back on to see how they fit.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuVTgK_VHI/AAAAAAAAAIk/NMPdVRwltYo/s720/P1010313.JPG)
After everything is spotwelded to their right places, the welds can be completed. I think on this side I got the sheets fit together almost perfect. This time I shoud get away with lead only, without any putty. That's the best way to avoid rust, I think.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SXuWEqAJfJI/AAAAAAAAAIs/X4Mvg-4PTjQ/s720/P1010321.JPG)
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Very nice job man looks good. Welcome to the forum and welcome from florida Look forward to seeingm ore pics..
thanks
pat
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Looking good!
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Thanks guys!
I ground the welds down:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SX4Z324nKSI/AAAAAAAAALw/Y_AJT2lXbpc/s720/P1010002.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SX4Z4VtRK1I/AAAAAAAAAL4/5ZOUtXmPY5M/s720/P1010003.JPG)
Then sealed the spotwelded seams,
and put some lead on the ground welds and smoothed them down:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SX4Z40mZE5I/AAAAAAAAAMI/Ixaes2_8qDY/s720/P1010012.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SX4Z4fdEg6I/AAAAAAAAAMA/eMDS3A6FcD8/s720/P1010007.JPG)
Turned out better than passengerside welds, but still needs some putty. Not much though. :)
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I'm not sure why you deleted your rides post, but all truck builds go in the rides section, projects section were if you were documenting an area like the floorpan replacement if there wasn't one.
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Ok, thanks for info, and moving it back!
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Hasn't posted for awhile..
Thought it would've been pretty boring if I had documented every piece this far... wirewheeling, plugwelding dozens and dozens of little screwholes on the roof and on the floor, grinding, sanding, puttying, masking, priming, painting, sanding the drippings down, painting again, piece by piece, little by little... and everything seems to take trice the time I thought it would.
Anyways, I finally got the cab painted.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqIKU_CDI/AAAAAAAAANg/mOrkhA-JzBI/s640/P1010052.JPG)
I did the doors and the fenders separate. Sure, it's nice to have thousands of lakes, four different seasons and vast resources of spring water, but man, do I still envy everybody who lives in an arid climate? This fender was from a 1980 Nevada truck, and just didn't have any rust at all. In Finland you can see trucks of this age with not much else than rust...
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqJOhfFXI/AAAAAAAAANo/7vBB2DuKTlM/s640/P1010056.JPG)
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The paint job ain't near as good as it looks in the photos. It has many flaws, but it has to go now. I'm building this truck for a driver, not a show queen. And after all, this was my first paint job and first body work at all, so I think I must take this as a learnig experience and be happy with it, even if it doesn't look as good as I imagined it would.
After averything was painted, it was finally time to start assembling. :) I think the white looks just great on the sheet metal parts of the interior. All my other interior parts, on the other hand, are s**t, but I think I'll do the interior as a separate project in the future.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sdjqe7uV3NI/AAAAAAAAAOU/UV931Mr4c2o/s512/P1010098.JPG)
The doors:
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqedFmzFI/AAAAAAAAAOM/ATBK4MJwAfk/s512/P1010097.JPG)
fenders:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sdjqd9BauGI/AAAAAAAAAOE/qpCxqcM8XCs/s512/P1010096.JPG)
The front end:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sdj6oq9AhnI/AAAAAAAAAOo/KPL8HS-OCK0/s512/P1010095.jpg)
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This weekend I changed the shaft seal at the transfer case mounting adapter to stop oil from flowing from tranny to the transfer case. I thought there were seals at the both end of the adapter, so I removed both the case and the adapter, but there was a seal only at the back of the adapter. So I changed the seal, bolted the adapter to the case, and bolted them back to the tranny as a unit to avoid messing up the seal. Man, it was hard job to get it back!
I think I will do the front spring swap next, before I start working with the bed. I try to post something about it.
Lastly, I'll post a couple of pictures about the beauty of the last of winter, and of spring.
Days lighten up and get longer...
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqHmIeVfI/AAAAAAAAANY/0ZGD-OoHmgM/s640/orkku.jpg)
... last really cold nights after warm sunny days can produce beautiful, od things...
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqJac3ldI/AAAAAAAAANw/6oSEXwhMNOw/s640/P1010080.JPG)
... and then, as the weather keeps on warming up, the swiftly melting snow uncovers the precious earth (as well as the leftover junk you dumped to snow drift right from the door of your garage, as you were working on your truck in there and needed more room).
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SdjqfPo5gvI/AAAAAAAAAOc/5NbyI0n-naY/s640/P1010100.JPG)
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That looks great.
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Thanks, oldwhity! I like your old whity 4x4. Has a great original, non-restored "work truck" look with hubcaps and all. I can't recall ever seeing pictures of long '73-87 steppers 'til I saw several on this forum, and I think they're really cool.
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Thanks. I'm starting to see more of them. I wouldn't mind making my 85 a stepper too.
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All right, I finally completed the 52" front spring swap yesterday! ;D
Basically what it took was:
- means to get the front of the truck up and secured
- air grinder for removing rivets
- lots of time and nerves ::)
- drill bits and a hole saw
- some steel plate for longer shackles
- and about 2,6 kilos (over 5.7 lbs) of bolts, nuts and washers. :o
I'll post pics and details of it soon... Just hope to find my camera first! Just can't figure where the heck it went... ???
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I know that this topic has been well documented on the net many times before, but here's it once again.
The idea is to use stock 52" long Blazer/1/2-ton rear springs at the front. They are approximately 4" longer than stock front springs and provide better ride, more flex, and ~4" of lift. The stock hangers can be used, if you move the front ones forward as described later. Front hangers move 4" forward, but then it's also good to move the rear hangers a couple of inches forward to gain shackle angle more suitable for positive arc springs (so the distance between the hanger eyes will only be ~2" longer although the springs are 4" longer).
As you can imagine, this would move the axle also about 2" forward. To be able to use the stock steering I moved it back again about 30 mm / 1-3/16" by drilling new holes to the spring pads at the axle and to the U-bolt plates (seems afterward that an inch would have been enough). The new rear hanger position will be higher than stock and you also need to use much longer shackles to prevent the spring rear end to hit the frame.
Ok, here's the passenger side front spring hanger in stock position.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezL1RFTI3I/AAAAAAAAAQk/WITUqdRzsBc/s640/P1010102.JPG)
Here's the new position of the hanger on the driver side. The L-shaped bracket will move to the front of the radiator core support bracket. Eight rivets per side has been removed. I think this was the most painful part. I did it w/ an air grinder with a small ball-shaped grinding head, and with a 10mm drill. Grinder worked pretty well but my little compressor spinned it only a few seconds at a time and then I had to wait for it to build pressure again. Stock bumper can still be used on '73 - '80 trucks, there's even no need to unbolt it.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezL1lOmX-I/AAAAAAAAAQs/615nY6ayv38/s640/P1010103.JPG)
After drilling a couple of new holes and grinding a couple of old ones to match, the hanger could be attached. Also needed to make spacers to the frontmost bolt positions at the frame rail by welding together some square washers. I used very hi-grade 10 mm (~13/32") bolts for everything at the hangers.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSONUlRwI/AAAAAAAAAR8/fUXIVgwJ2ck/s640/P1010022.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSOGtp9jI/AAAAAAAAASE/AalXYQtq04s/s640/P1010023.JPG)
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Then the rear hangers. There's a passenger side one at the stock location. I was lucky to have bolted on rear hangers instead of riveted.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezL1V5tTzI/AAAAAAAAAQc/Edo6RP797nw/s640/P1010101.JPG)
Driverside hanger removed.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezL1qSLP-I/AAAAAAAAAQ0/7klOYQirP0o/s640/P1010104.JPG)
The original bottom front mounting hole will be new bottom rear mounting hole. I sprayed some paint on the old hanger position, pressed a paper on it, cut a bolt hole with a sharp knife and used the paper as a shablon to mark the positions of the new large center hole and the new bottom front bolt hole with center punch.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezL1nt4UhI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/qJpklPJhLxo/s640/P1010108.JPG)
After drilling the new bottom front bolt hole with a drill bit and the large hole with a hole saw (I used 45mm / 1-25/32" hole saw), I bolted the hanger on from outside of frame rail with the two bottom bolts. Then it was easy to drill the upper holes exactly to the right positions. Here's the hanger assembled to the new position.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezRT-JgjeI/AAAAAAAAARE/dQeh_fHKWR0/s640/P1010028.JPG)
But hey, I think I'll continue this story later... Good night, everyone! :)
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Looks like fun grinding out all those rivots. I like your jack stand. Is that the roll-a-way version? lol
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cool Finland you say 8)
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Morning, guys!
I like your jack stand. Is that the roll-a-way version? lol
Yeah, :D Just wanted some extra support, although I think I put most of the weight on the rear jack stands (just rearwards from the rear spring hangers). Three supports kept it really steady though, when working with the front hangers. That maple wooden chopping log I got from the yard was just the right length. Must weigh a good 150 lbs at least ;D
But I'll continue later, got to work now!
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Here's the front spring attached. Since stock bushings of the rear springs are narrower than the bushings of the stock front springs, I made spacers to both sides of the springs by welding together some 14 mm fender washers. (2 springs w/ 2 eyes w/ 2 spacers each -> 8 spacers to make) I couldn't find long enough 9/16" bolts from my local store, so I had to use just a wee bit smaller 14mm bolt at the spring eyes.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSOJ-QwTI/AAAAAAAAASM/ZcChZkGFtnU/s640/P1010031.JPG)
Here you can see the spring center pin lurking from the new hole at the spring pad.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSoZQntII/AAAAAAAAASk/d3NixLx-V9E/s640/P1010030.JPG)
The steering link doesn't look so bad at all, much so because of the raised steering arm. It can well take the full droop of the axle, and there's also far enough space for it to be adjusted.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSOpPgGTI/AAAAAAAAASc/fr2Ds4jRQl8/s640/P1010027.JPG)
I made the shackles from 30mm x 12mm plate (about 1-3/16" x 15/32"). I know it's too narrow and will propably brake the bushings over the time, but that was best material I could have last weekend...and I just had to get it rolling. They're 178mm/ 7" from bolt eye to bolt eye. I managed to squeeze 12 mm bolts (about 15/32") through the rear spring hangers, as the original ones were 7/16" (52" rear springs are symmetrical, so the rear spring eye is same 14mm as the front one).
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezRT-JgjeI/AAAAAAAAARE/dQeh_fHKWR0/s640/P1010028.JPG)
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The front spring eyes are pretty far forward.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSOQETi0I/AAAAAAAAASU/Iy9_HQZeaYA/s640/P1010032.JPG)
The axle is under an inch forward from stock position (notice that tires are steered a bit to the right in the picture). I didn't measure it, but it came out a little bit taller than it was with the old stock length 4" lift springs.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SezSogZUETI/AAAAAAAAASs/Rje62L6A1pQ/s640/P1010029.JPG)
I think that I can go on with the stock steering for a while although the axle can droop pretty low. The shocks run out of length just before the springs reach their full droop. The most critical thing now is the front drive shaft. It's seriously too short, even though I made a 1/2-inch spacer to the transfer case end of it by modifying an old drive shaft flange.
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Yesterday I swapped out a bent rear axle shaft for a little better used one. Also put degreeing shims at the rear axle and added the overload springs I removed from the 52" springs to the rear spring packs. Sits pretty level now, but I have to wait after putting the hood and the bed on and driving around a little to see how it'll actually sit. Nothing much to take pictures about really...
Next thing would be the exhaust. Then the cleaning, welding and painting of the bed. Gee, I would like to get her on the road already! Well, at least I'm already done by far the biggest part of the work, and there's nothing really difficult left... but I know everything will always take three times more than I plan (last night's little job I described being a refreshing exception to the rule), so it's best not to schedule anything at all, but just do it a day by day and hope to finish in some time. :)
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You could be a writer you know that?
You do a great job working on the truck as well as describing what you have done. Great thread. Cant wait to read more.
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Thank you, Just-speed! What an unexpected compliment, you made my day! ;D
I can't wait either to have something to write about again... Seems like it's gonna be weekend at home, so I think I'll get to work on the bed. :)
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:)
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I haven't posted for awhile, been pretty busy.
Finally got her on the road. We made a trip to my parents' summer cottage last weekend and the truck functioned ok. I finished w/ the bed just before in a hurry, but I think it turned out ok.
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sh1f9wRTtoI/AAAAAAAAAU8/DiO2jli09fM/s576/P1010131%20copy.jpg)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sh1f-Mpc2jI/AAAAAAAAAVA/kNt-AXfDPUc/s576/P1010134.JPG)
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sh1f-Vq0E3I/AAAAAAAAAVE/FjeyG-22FSg/s576/P1010135%20copy.jpg)
The rear of the truck is sitting too low, and the axle is too forward.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sh1gGqPpdWI/AAAAAAAAAVU/RHAf0n8mJ9I/s576/P1010136.JPG)
This is a quick photoshop version about how it will hopefully look after I relocate the axle and put on some ~1" "blocks" I have. Just have to get new longer u-bolts...
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sh1f-x7faCI/AAAAAAAAAVM/amZnqWPc9GQ/s576/P1010136%20copy.jpg)
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Seems like there're dozens of other little things to do...
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Seems like there're dozens of other little things to do...
It never ends eh?
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No, it doesn't end!
I still need to redo some wiring. Horn, license plate lamp and instrument panel lights aren't working, and dome lamp only works when the driving lights are on. Couple of lights and passenger side flashers aren't working either, but that can be due to some bad bulbs. Speedometer isn't working either for some mystical reason. Temp gauge most of the time jumps to maximum, although the eng seems not to be heating too much.
I need to redo the exhaust and buy some seat belts. Got to swap the bed attaching bolts for the lock head ones. Some insulation to the floor and the carpet is a must, since the tremendous noise level really can hurt the hearing during a long drive. Another side mirror is missing, cause the legs of it need to be lengthened. Front drive shaft should be lengthened also. Rear bumper lacks the center most brackets, so the rear can't be jacked up from the bumper. Think I just have to make some mud flaps also, can't stand listening the occasional rock hitting those new rockers. Etc., etc...
I think the seat belts, electrics, speedo, and the rear lift and axle relocating are the most urgent.
Anyway, I'm happy that the welding and painting part is mostly done, and that I'm able to drive it! ;D Despite the noise, it was a nice trip of over 600 km (370 miles) last weekend. By the way, the brakes are working pretty well (a moose crossed the road).
I'll take some more pictures on some sunny day... :)
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"the brakes are working pretty well (a moose crossed the road)."
That was good! lol :D
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Nice build man! I love white chevys, like my first vehicle was.. ;D
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This is a quick photoshop version about how it will hopefully look after I relocate the axle and put on some ~1" "blocks" I have. Just have to get new longer u-bolts...
[/quote] that fooled me good i was in that class and got an a just saying that to get an idea a cross
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truck looks great ive been thinking about doing the 52 front spring swap for a while and have been curious how they feel just driving down the road, or towing, i want my truck to work well off road but i dont want to loose towing ability, i use my truck to tow quite a bit and have been hesitant because of that, any info would be great
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Yeah, I forgot to tell how it rides now, compared to the former stock-length 4" lift springs.
I don't have a stabilizer bar, and the steering is otherwise stock, but I've installed a raised arm and an ORD bolt-on steering box brace to make the steering box area more rigid. All the ball joints in knuckles, tie rod, etc. seemed to me to be in good condition.
Compared to the former springs, the 52"'s w/ long shackles are softer and the in-out flex movements are greater, so there is a bit more bump steer. I have a pretty new steering stabilizer shock, so it usually doesn't actually steer much, but the steering wheel tends to turn slightly when hitting a bump. IMHO this is not bad at all, usually just barely noticeable.
You have to be awake when cornering on a winding road, though. If you turn the wheel swiftly enough when coming to a tight curve, the softer springs w/o the stabilizer cause the body to roll slightly, which again causes kind of bump steer, so the truck can turn faster and more than you intended. Again, IMHO this isn't bad, and you can get used to it.
The good thing with the springs is that although they are not too soft, the ride is much nicer than with the stiff lift springs. Minor roughness and holes in the road don't feel much. Still kind of "bumpy", as I think lifted solid axle trucks are, meaning that as riding over a big bump, it bounces up and then down much more noticeably than a 2wd would. But still it doesn't feel bad, and I don't have to fear every bump and pot hole as I used to. With the old springs it felt like either the truck or my back was really going to fall apart, and after each bump it felt like free falling.
I've taken two 600 km (370 miles) trips with it now, and both times the truck got to deliver all kinds of stuff, but nothing heavy, though. Hadn't towed anything with it yet either. Anyway, I think it's good enough for now. I can't claim it to be great in on-road handling, but IMO it's a reasonable compromise in price, flex, lift, ride-quality and handling. Still, I must soon fabricate shackles of wider material, lengthen my front drive shaft, and move the axle a little bit forward to protect my springs from snapping. (Also intend to upgrade to crossover steering but that's somewhere in the future. Sturdier front hangers would also be cool.)
The crossover steering is an expensive mod, but it should improve handling, and w/ it you wouldn't have to relocate the axle as I did. That's weakening the springs so I can't recommend it to anyone. Also, maybe even less than an inch would have done it, I relocated it more than was necessary, thus increasing the risk of spring failure. That was because it was impossible to measure accurately beforehand.
By the way, as I said, I've done two longer trips with it now. Yes, we made a trip to my parents' summer place again last weekend. This time the drive back was, well, more adventurous... ::) I'll try to write a post about it during this weekend!
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Hi Y'all! Promised to tell something about last weekend... Don't be surprised if I'm not so undersandable tonight. It's 00.16 right now, and I got plenty of alcohol in me.
Typical Finnish summer saturday night; sauna hot as heck, swimming in a freezing water, and then lots of BBQ:d sausages and even more beer. Nice sitting outside, since it doesn't get dark at all this time a year this close to the arctic circle.
Anyway, when the truck didn't have the bed on it yet, I noticed that the rear axlw pinion was pointing pretty much up, and the angle of the rearmost u-joint was pretty big (due to the shackle flip). I thought that I must look at it closer after the bed is on. And then I forgot about it. Last weekend, we started our 300 km way home and everything seemed to work ok. At some point, the truck seemed to vibrate when accelerating and made pretty bad noise.
I gussed it was the u-joint, but hoped it would last all the way. It got worse and worse. I tried driving with front wheel drive only (which is possible 'cause of the twin stick setup), but it vibrated also pretty badly, since the shaft is too short and stretched so far out. So I switched back to rear wheel drive. Finally it got so bad that it felt that the driveshaft would break or just completely stop rotating. We were at a small town far away from anyone we would know.
I pulled down beside a gas station and parked so that the truck was facing downhill to avoid oil from flowing out from the transfer case, if I removed the rear drive shaft. The driveshaft was still in one peace, as well as the pinion yoke, but the rear u-joint seemed completely busted. Fortunately I had a screwdriver set, a socket set and pliers aboard. It was just a small station without reapair service, so we were pretty much on our own. :-\
I removed the front drive shaft. Then I removed the lock rings of the frontmost u-joint of it by the pliers I had. The joint was removed by using two of the sockets and a rock as a hammer. Then I removed the rear drive shaft, the busted u-joint of it, and put the u-joint from the front shaft to the rear shaft. Here you can see the tools:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircIQXPZjI/AAAAAAAAAV0/iAN3NyoVbeE/s576/P1010142.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircIa2WLBI/AAAAAAAAAV4/Mbcm-z303Rw/s576/P1010143.JPG)
And this is how the burned up joint seems:
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircIB3scII/AAAAAAAAAVw/cqwMWaRJ1h4/s576/P1010140.JPG)
We were relly fortunate, since the driveshaft still seemed ok, and only a little piece was broke off from the pinion yoke...
It seemed to work okay, so we could carry on our way to home. This week I measured the angles, and noticed, that the angle of the rear u-joint was about ten degrees! The front u-joint angle was about 2.5. Then I calculated how great shims I would need to make to get the angles of the pinion u-joint and the transfer case u-joint to be as close to each other as possible. I made the shims out of old lift blocks. They also lift the rear a bit and take the rar axle a bit rearward.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircIhj6kzI/AAAAAAAAAV8/_N2uKm1N34Q/s576/P1010147.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircIxXAj6I/AAAAAAAAAWA/TO_94h_8TJc/s576/P1010153.JPG)
Now the angle of the pinion joint is pretty near to zero, while the angle of the trasfer case joint is about 1°. So it wasn't a comlete success, since the target was to get them bot to about 0.8°... They should be as close to each other as possible, and the zero angle is bad, since the joint will not be moving and the oiling will not be working. Anyway, I think it's pretty close, and a hundred times better than it was. :) And maybe the rear joint gets its movements in bumps.. The bad thing is that after moving the axle back, the rear driveshaft is a little too short also. This is how it looks now.
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/Sircn2U4YEI/AAAAAAAAAWI/1obU2c2PRJ4/s576/P1010150.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SircnioYR1I/AAAAAAAAAWE/MriqhHBmF8s/s576/P1010149.JPG)
The truck is still in the garage, so I don't have pictures about how it affected the looks, but it's better now than it was, I assure you! Will post pics soon! 8)
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Did I say I was gonna come back soon? :-[
Well, I'm sorry, guys. I was very busy in June. Then, when on vacation in July, I didn't much touch the computer...
Couple of weeks ago we made a trip to northern Norway. Had a great time trekking and fishing. I know this doesn't have anything to do with this topic (we even went there by two cars, not my truck), but wanted to share a glimpse of it:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SnnMrdNrb3I/AAAAAAAAAbg/3SBWjpSi4S0/s640/P1010247.JPG)
I drove the truck pretty much during the July, but didn't do much else with it. Anyway, here's one picture:
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_fMjeBZIMj4A/SnnQHelHRJI/AAAAAAAAAbs/vRv6VNMOvb4/s640/P1010083A.jpg)