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General Site Info => General Discussion => Topic started by: frogman68 on February 09, 2009, 06:40:49 pm
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This is for the whole garage sized 30 wide 40 long just different heights of the door
the 12 foot height one has a door 12 foot wide 10 foot high
the 10 foot height one has a door 9 foot wide 8 foot high
The 10 ft high one is 9750 installed
The 12 ft high one is 13100
That is installed except for the concrete floor
Is the 2 feet going to make that much of a difference or should I save the 4k for the floor ?
If I go with the 12 foot one I will have to wait till next year to do the floor
which is better in your view??
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I installed 3 10 footers on mine with openers double insulated with windows for around $10,000. I would shop around. Do you plan on bringing in anything more than 10' tall?
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I personally would go with 10ft unless you are planning a Monster truck build.
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Not sure about your area but that price would be way out of line around here. I would go with 12' x 12' if you can.
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I screwed up as usual.
I will edit it :)
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So it really is a 10ft vs 8ft door. I would go with 10ft then. Want me to change the poll?
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So it really is a 10ft vs 8ft door. I would go with 10ft then. Want me to change the poll?
No its the height of the garage should I go 10ft or 12 foot
I put the door heights in for a reference I think a pickup/blazer should fit in a 8 ft high door
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I'm confused ??? are you asking how high you should make your ceiling in your garage? If so I would say minimum 12.6' so you can put in a lift.
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Total height of the Garage (at the eaves) I would get 12' (or 13' depending on if you can't find a lift later that fits) and get a 10' tall door.
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Ceiling height would be either 10 ft or 12 ft
Ville I would have to go 14 ft thats not in the budget :( might have to cut the size down from 30 by 40 to get a 14 foot ceiling
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Not if you build up your sill plate and then put a header on top. 12'6" you should clear an asymmetric lift.
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Not if you build up your sill plate and then put a header on top. 12'6" you should clear an asymmetric lift.
Ville this is a pole garage there is no sill plate just posts in the ground the place I got the quotes from only do 2 ft increments it is like 5k to go from 10 to 12 so I am thinking it will be another 5k to go to 14
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Try shopping around or beating them up on the price. Meet em 1/2 way. Having a lift in your garage is a great investment!
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10 ft would be a good size. I have 10' wide by 8' tall with a 10' ceiling and the only thing that won't fit is the tractor with the rollbar upright. remember you'll have to have at least 1' or so extra over the door for the springs, etc to go.
here's a 10x8
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t195/wes2880/78%20C20%20Rebuild%20Stuff/10x8garagedoor.jpg)
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I have 8 ft doors and like 78 Chevyrado, the only thing that wont go is the tractor with the roll bar up. The red truck with the 6 inch lift and 35s clears fine. A 10 ft would fit a really large truck.
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What about going 10' sidewalls with cathederal trusses in the area where the lift might go. What is the centers of the trusses on the pole barn going to be? If they are on 8' centers like some pole barn builders could the lift go up between the trusses???
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After hearing Ville I did some more research I think this will be the one I go with
30 Wide 36 Long 13'6 to ceiling in the corners and 16 feet in the center 11,870 installed.
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Well after shopping around I found a 30X40X14 with a 10X10 door its around 7500 (delivery and off loading included) some friends will put the posts in and the trusses up I will have pretty much just the siding and metal roof to put up. I am up to lifting 30 lbs so I hope the sheets dont weigh more than that.
Think I will start a new thread with pics of it going up. Plans (hopefully) will be here in a week then 2 to 3 weeks to get a permit and for the materials to arrive.
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Its not the weight of the sheets that gets ya, its the awkwardness of them. Get some help and be careful.
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Yeah they weigh three times more when a good gust of wind tries to sail them with you holding on! ;D
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well the posts are in the ground and the building banded with 2X4's and one roof truss up I rigged a winch and a pulley to put the truss up wasnt perfect but it worked need to come up with a new idea the boom we rented was just to expensive wife will be on the phone tomorrow :)
http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/Garage/
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Great progress, congrats.
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Finished this a few weeks ago never posted pics :)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/Garage/DSCF1597.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/Garage/DSCF1598.jpg)
Went with a 10X10 door
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff310/frogman1968/Garage/DSCF1734.jpg)
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sweet!
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So jealous!! I hate living in the city! Truck doesnt fit in the garage, so I have to do everything on a slanted driveway. Cant work in the street, city ordinance.
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Very nice end results, congrats
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Awesome!
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Thanks it was alot harder than I thought it would be. No more Pole Barns I will do conventional framing from now on :) . I am hoping to have electric in it before winter sets in. I live in the Peoples Republic of Maryland so I must hire a electrician I can not pull the permit,last estimate I got the guy pretty much told me I am screwed and he can charge what ever needless to say he isnt getting the job.
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do you know anyone who is certified?
If I knew how to do it, and I own the dang garage, I guarantee I would do that myself. The county person could then go and inspect it afterwards, but no commie is gonna tell me I can't work on my own house/ garage.
I would at least drill the holes, run the wire, put in the receptacles, hook up the breaker panel, etc...Then some certified dude could officially flip the switch or something. Do it like normal people, just hire someone as a consultant. The labor i will do.
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do you know anyone who is certified?
If I knew how to do it, and I own the dang garage, I guarantee I would do that myself. The county person could then go and inspect it afterwards, but no commie is gonna tell me I can't work on my own house/ garage.
I would at least drill the holes, run the wire, put in the receptacles, hook up the breaker panel, etc...Then some certified dude could officially flip the switch or something. Do it like normal people, just hire someone as a consultant. The labor i will do.
If I was just running service from the house I would do it and not get a permit but with putting a new service out to it the electric company wont bring the line to the house till a permit is pulled . I am trying to get just a bare minimum done to get the service then I will do the rest.
I did the adding what the electrician was going to install was going to cost 500 (my store price so he would more than likely get it cheaper) so he wanted 3500 for labor.
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I did the adding what the electrician was going to install was going to cost 500 (my store price so he would more than likely get it cheaper) so he wanted 3500 for labor.
OUCH! I had a new service run into my house 7 or 8 years ago and I hired an acquaintance (he did some electrical work for us at work) for a Saturday to put it in. I bought all of the stuff per his specification and he put the whole works in with his helper for $800. Took him about 4 hours and that included new panel, meter box, ground rod, and weatherhead up the side of the house. Given how long ago it was, I think I'd probably pay about $1200 now. Look around, ask anyone you know if they know anyone. Times are tough, and I'm sure someone has a friend-of-a-friend who wouldn't mind some cash money for side work in these tough times.
By the way, the garage looks sweet!
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I cant stand 8 x 8 doors. When I build my shop, the door will be at least 10' wide x 10' high. (So I can back in an 8' wide trailer)
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I cant stand 8 x 8 doors. When I build my shop, the door will be at least 10' wide x 10' high. (So I can back in an 8' wide trailer)
Go at least 12 wide watching my wife trying to back in it 10 ft doesnt seem wide enough (no trailer just a Escape)