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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Topic started by: 1983stepside on March 09, 2009, 11:48:52 am
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hi im rebuildin a 1983 chevy c10 stepside 2wd and it had no headliner from the factory and i like that, but i also like when there is one, and i just found a headliner thats called "highliner" and it has 4 4inch speakers 2 faceing the pass and 2 the driver which is the pic and i like all those ideas just wanted to see what you guys would do
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One thing to consider with the Highliner is that it mounts the radio overhead so you have to find something to fill the stock radio location in the dash (maybe switches or an equalizer).
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thanks actually if i went that route i was either gonna put switches where the radio went in the highliner, or put a neon light or something in it just for something different because i want the radio to stay where its at, in the dash, realy the only reason i was considering the high liner is because of the extra speakers i could have in my truck, so my plan was if i got it was to cover it in a fabric to match the seat and door panels not use the dome light and do something with where the radio is designd to go 8)
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There is a member that has one of those in his truck. I can get them also, just don't sell alot of them.
I prefer a stock headliner though.
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I've got one in my truck, no speakers in it though. Speakers up there and behind you destroy the sound stage, so I never recommend putting speakers up there. I've got a CB where the radio would mount, and I'll eventually hook up an external speaker to the CB and put that in one of the speaker holes, and cover the rest up. They have a neat little flat spot facing the driver right over the visor, great for mounting switches.
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I've got one in my truck, no speakers in it though. Speakers up there and behind you destroy the sound stage, so I never recommend putting speakers up there. I've got a CB where the radio would mount, and I'll eventually hook up an external speaker to the CB and put that in one of the speaker holes, and cover the rest up. They have a neat little flat spot facing the driver right over the visor, great for mounting switches.
so your saying that the speakers in the headliner, they dont sound good? what if i would replace them with better ones from alpine or something?
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There is a way to do it. I am werewolf though. The speakers were placed where they are for a reason. If you wire it this way it would sound better. If you do it a different way, you cross the sound cones (technical term) and you get noise cancellation (ears don't hear it correctly.
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww104/levisjohnson/f_chanellai_69bdm_21fef193.jpg)
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It doesn't matter what the speakers are or how you wire them, putting them behind you or even with your head will trash the soundstage. Speakers should ONLY be located behind the driver when being used for rear fill, and they should be limited to a lower midrange/midbass set if possible.
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It doesn't matter what the speakers are or how you wire them, putting them behind you or even with your head will trash the soundstage. Speakers should ONLY be located behind the driver when being used for rear fill, and they should be limited to a lower midrange/midbass set if possible.
I completely agree with you. but if you are, this is the best way to wire them. No high range speakers should be used.
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If someone must use speakers in the highliner, then yeah, you should wire them that way. I would limit the range to 80hz-600hz, and make a set of fiberglass diffusers to un-direct the sound.
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I would go with a stock looking headliner. It will look better ;)
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You could do a custom headliner with something funky on it, but with the stock fit.
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I've got one in my truck, no speakers in it though. Speakers up there and behind you destroy the sound stage, so I never recommend putting speakers up there.
Agreed. When I was in high school, I put a set of tweets at the top of my A-pillars (pointing slightly down and inward). I thought it would lift my soundstage. Man did I have alot to learn. It sounded terribly off balance, and way too bright (too much high freq, too close to my ear) no matter how I adjusted them, so I just disconnected them. I can only guess that it would be even worse directly above your head.
I should have mounted the tweets low and away, pointing them upwards, to raise the soundstage. A pair of Chris' kick panels (http://store.73-87chevytrucks.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=7&Product_Code=RD-3061&Category_Code=7387INT) with a set of Polk db650 coax's will be my next attempt.
Take werewolf's advice. Don't use this head liner for mounting speakers.
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wow ok thanks for all of the input and advice, i made up my mind and im not gonna use the hghliner, plus that will aloow me to use that 300 bucks to buy other things for my stepside ;D, but now i dont know what to do, i bought the 6x9 speaker brackets for the cab corners from a fellow mwmber, so my plan was to put them in and get 1 12inch sub from best buy that comes in a truck box, its a rock fordfosegate, and then put the kick panels in from chris, and maybe put speakers in where the stock ones would go from the factory under the dash pad, i love music and i love it loud, so any advice on that would be great, also what would you do then would you keep no head liner like the factory (for my truck anyways) or would you put oe in? remember i dont have a dome light, and dont plan on putting one in except uder the dash like the factory any advice for this all would be great thanks 8)
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I would not recommend getting a pre-made box for the sub. It may not fit and sometimes the airspace is not correct depending on the sub. I would look into making my own box.
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I would not recommend getting a pre-made box for the sub. It may not fit and sometimes the airspace is not correct depending on the sub. I would look into making my own box.
well the sub and box are one unit already installed in the box, so id figure that it would be ok to use
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Id say go with putting a flag up there as your headliner. I put the South Carolina state flag in as my headliner, I constantly get compliments and it looks really sweet. Also put the old Georgia flag in a buddies truck and a pirate flag in another buddies truck. Pretty sweet little one of a kind touch I think.
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What type of music do you primarily listen to? Whats your budget? Have you fully deadened the interior yet? What headunit do you currently have? Do you want clarity with enough potential volume to damage your hearing, or just stupidly loud volume with little regard to clarity and imaging? I don't believe the kick panels Chris sells are setup for component tweets (yet?), so you'd have to sacrifice some quality and go with coaxials if you don't want to get really involved with tweeter placement and aiming, but unless you're ready to drop $500 on sound deadening if you haven't already, (Cascade is the best, hands down, and very worth the money compared to other products), the difference will be moot. Stay away from best buy and CC, all too often is their "expert" an 18 year old kid who thinks kicker is the best you can buy. Get me some of this info and I'll write up a list of my recommendations and try to get some approximate costs.
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What type of music do you primarily listen to? Whats your budget? Have you fully deadened the interior yet? What headunit do you currently have? Do you want clarity with enough potential volume to damage your hearing, or just stupidly loud volume with little regard to clarity and imaging? I don't believe the kick panels Chris sells are setup for component tweets (yet?), so you'd have to sacrifice some quality and go with coaxials if you don't want to get really involved with tweeter placement and aiming, but unless you're ready to drop $500 on sound deadening if you haven't already, (Cascade is the best, hands down, and very worth the money compared to other products), the difference will be moot. Stay away from best buy and CC, all too often is their "expert" an 18 year old kid who thinks kicker is the best you can buy. Get me some of this info and I'll write up a list of my recommendations and try to get some approximate costs.
well im looking for good sounding speakers and a 12 inch sub behind the bench seat, with the 6x9 in each cab corner, with the brackets i bought from a fellow member, and with the sound deading im using a product called quick roof, and before you freak out about it, i have a buddy that used dynomat, and yeah it works great better then i thought it would, and i also have a buddy that used the product im gonna use and i do not notice a difference in sound deading at all, so thats what im using, only because its alot cheaper, because i dont have alot of money to pile a 3000 dollar stero system in my truck, and with the sub and box combo i found in bestbuy if i went that rought i would deff be putting it in my truck and doing the wireing my self cuz your right there expert is more than likely an 18 year old kid ;D so really i guess what im asking for help on is what type of speakers should i use for both 6x9 and the kick panels, and under the dash pad? and should they be amplfied? or just the sub? and whats the best sub to run for music like rock, country, a little bit of rap here and there, but mostly rock and country, i dont have a head unit picked out yet because i wasnt sure which one would be the best for what im wanting to do any and all info will be apprecated, so you know also im no where near ready to put the interior together in my truck but i like to plan ahaed so when i get to that step im not sitting around like ??? because i dont know where to start thanks 8)
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Quick roof, peel and seal, etc are all pretty equivalent to dynamat, but they fall vastly short of cascade. For one of these trucks, I plan on 200-225 sq feet of deadening in the cab. I've used peel n seal in the past, but it gets very soft and smells like asphalt in the summer.
I would leave the speakers out of the dash if you're going to run kick panel speakers. Pick a set of 6.5" coaxials (2 way) or 3 ways for the kick panels, brands to look for in order from best to good are Rainbow, Arc, Focal, Eclipse. With your budget in mind, I'd look to the eclipse, or even Kenwood or pioneer would be suitable. 6x9's, don't put a lot of concern into these, a good set of pioneer or kenwood 6x9's would be fine, try to find 2 way speakers. As far as subs go, avoid cheap. Dynaudio Esotar 1200 Is the best you can buy hands down. Its deep, so if you're still using the bench seat, it may be too big to fit behind the seat, in that case, a shallow mount sub would be sufficient, one of these would fit the bill nicely http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111), build a 0.8 cubic foot sealed box. Amplify everything. Tru S44 and S500 are your best bet for amps, they are pricey but worth every penny of their $799 each price tags. If you must buy something cheaper, kicker makes DECENT amps, a 4 channel and a 2 channel for the amp bridged to one channel. (sx600.2). As far as the head unit, nothing but eclipse. The Eclipse CD5030 when it comes out would be suitable. You're looking for 3 sets of preamp outputs, and the cd5030 is the cheaper way to do that. Otherwise, its the CD7200MKII.
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Hey werewolf: have you ever tried Second Skin damplifier pro? Based on what I've heard, it's vastly superior to Dynamat, at a lower cost. Not sure how it compares to Cascade.
Also, my current theory is that single cab trucks don't need rear fill at all. My plan is to simply run front coax's mounted in kick panels and a down-firing sub under the seat. A very basic, easy to tune, 2.1 system. It's obvious you have some sort of expertise in the realm of car audio, so what's your take on this?
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Quick roof, peel and seal, etc are all pretty equivalent to dynamat, but they fall vastly short of cascade. For one of these trucks, I plan on 200-225 sq feet of deadening in the cab. I've used peel n seal in the past, but it gets very soft and smells like asphalt in the summer.
I would leave the speakers out of the dash if you're going to run kick panel speakers. Pick a set of 6.5" coaxials (2 way) or 3 ways for the kick panels, brands to look for in order from best to good are Rainbow, Arc, Focal, Eclipse. With your budget in mind, I'd look to the eclipse, or even Kenwood or pioneer would be suitable. 6x9's, don't put a lot of concern into these, a good set of pioneer or kenwood 6x9's would be fine, try to find 2 way speakers. As far as subs go, avoid cheap. Dynaudio Esotar 1200 Is the best you can buy hands down. Its deep, so if you're still using the bench seat, it may be too big to fit behind the seat, in that case, a shallow mount sub would be sufficient, one of these would fit the bill nicely http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111 (http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113XW1200/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-XW1200F.html?c=3&tp=111), build a 0.8 cubic foot sealed box. Amplify everything. Tru S44 and S500 are your best bet for amps, they are pricey but worth every penny of their $799 each price tags. If you must buy something cheaper, kicker makes DECENT amps, a 4 channel and a 2 channel for the amp bridged to one channel. (sx600.2). As far as the head unit, nothing but eclipse. The Eclipse CD5030 when it comes out would be suitable. You're looking for 3 sets of preamp outputs, and the cd5030 is the cheaper way to do that. Otherwise, its the CD7200MKII.
wow thanks for that info i will deff have to keep all of what you said in mind when buying my audio supplies, whats the best way to run 2 amps? ive never done that before so not to sure what to do, also my plan was to put the amp under the seat because i didnt want to see it when the seat is flip forward, so with 2 amps, where should i put them so 1.) they look good if they have to be in the open behind the seat and 2.) so they wont get to hot thanks again 8)
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Hey werewolf: have you ever tried Second Skin damplifier pro? Based on what I've heard, it's vastly superior to Dynamat, at a lower cost. Not sure how it compares to Cascade.
Also, my current theory is that single cab trucks don't need rear fill at all. My plan is to simply run front coax's mounted in kick panels and a down-firing sub under the seat. A very basic, easy to tune, 2.1 system. It's obvious you have some sort of expertise in the realm of car audio, so what your take on this?
Most of the Second Skin products are decent, but I'm a firm believer in Cascade. I haven't bothered to deaden my truck since its going to need some body work, but when I do, its getting Cascade VB-2HD, at least 2 layers over every practical surface.
Rear fill in these trucks is only needed if you don't do some major dampening. I would use a little anyway, since you can dial it out to being almost nonexistent if it isn't needed.
The down-firing sub idea would be ok if you had enough room under the seat..I doubt you'll have enough room to get a decent sub for the application.
As for amp wiring, run 1/0 cable off the battery to an inline fuse holder, you want it as close as possible to the battery. I'd suggest you drill a new hole and use watertight locking grommets in the firewall. Upgrade your alt to battery connection with a fused cable AT LEAST 4 ga, and battery to frame and battery to body grounds with 1/0 cable. Use a distro block suitable for 1/0 cable behind the seat, split it to twin 4 ga or twin 8 ga leads, depending on your choice of amps. I'd suggest you mount the amps behind the seat on an amp mounting board made from a non conductive material, solid birch is a good choice for the sub box and amp mounting board. Its non-resonant and lighter than MDF.