73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: ispep1012 on March 28, 2009, 10:16:25 am
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Hey guys new here. Found this site from a link when researching some things. Great site great years!
Anyhow attempting my first partial restoration. I am on a small budget so some things have to be accommodated for. The truck is a 1987 V10 Silverado 4x4 1/2 ton. So far I have put a 6 in. lift, headers & flowmaster (original) exhaust. I have already started this project working on it here and there when I can afford to buy a few more supply's. Got about 8 days on actual work (weather permitting here in MI).
Some info on me...
I am not your go to guy to have things done but for some reason people still come to me. Sometimes this is a pain but I now realize that it has helped me develop what you could say my mechanical instinct. I have not done enough of one thing to know my ins and outs without some research, but I know and have enough common sense to get the job done. I have always enjoyed tearing things apart and started young. I went & am going through some rough times with my life & am currently disabled so this project is helping me out as well. This truck was one of my favorite pickups since I was a kid, the classic 87.
The Project..
So far I have already pulled of the bed, fenders, inner fenders, hood, trim, RH gas tank & gutted the door shells. Several bolts snapped & a few clips tore through the fender metal. I spent my first few days grinding, cutting & welding to remove the bolts and repair the metal. Welding on this thin of metal is a bit tricky for me as I only have a gas less wire feeder but I am figuring it out. I have also started coating the frame, gas tanks & under bed with rusty metal primer.
Replacements & Repairs...
Inner Fenders - Rotten but practiced by welding in patches
Door shells - Gonna cost $100.00 ea need both
Cab corners - $20.00 ea. $ 50.00 to have someone weld them in (if I dont do it myself) Someone has done the cab corners before me & did them wrong.
Rear shocks - Guessing about $40-45.00 ea.
Paint - Trying to decide as of yet
Still in Diagnostic mode...
Rear differential leaking - believed to be the oil seal, noticed after I blew out the diff gears but have since replaced the gears
Engine oil leaking - small at I believe 2 different locations haven't looked into very far
Loud clicking noise in reverse - unsure happens under load sounds like its metal - I don't recall hearing this before the 6 in. lift not sure if driveshaft is long enough
This is an older pic I had floating around that I will use as the before pic. I will get this posted and and some pics here and there. Chance's are this project wont move very fast due to money but I will do what I can as I can do it.
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Day 1 was mostly some tear down to see how bad things were. The primer on the door was a previous attempt to paint but I was forced to drive it the way it was and well the rain and bad door seals messed it up.
The frame in all its rusty glory.
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The next few days were scraping, grinding, wire brushing and washing for paint.
I sprayed down rust primer under the bed, the inner fenders & part of the frame in several coats. Wasnt very concerned with any overspray because I don't have supply's for the body work yet. I sprayed everything with a cheap 1.4mm hvlp spray gun.
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looks like a good project. your frame isnt that rusty. ive seen alot worse in these year of trucks. lol keep us posted on your progress!
Andy
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I'll skip a few days and bring it current.
Basically I am re-finishing everything as I tear apart. Since I dont have the supplys to get into the body yet I am cleaning and painting other things as I go. At least it will be better then what it was kinda thing. Everything that I am hitting with the rust primer is getting done in a gloss black. A bit cold today so I am not sure I will be working on it. Dont mind the messy garage.
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As far as paint goes I am somewhat playing by ear as the work progress's and I decide that I have to fork out more money for better bc/cc. So far I am doing everything on my own and learning as I go. Quite difficult taking the bed and some body parts off by yourself. Thank God I bought that cherry pick when I was 17 and told myself I will use that some day.
No but seriously. I was thinking of laying down an acrylic urethane at first, mainly because its cheaper & can be clear coated any time down the road. This would allow room for error or possibbly adding accent colors, designs or stripes at a later time. Originally thought black because of the existing paint but I would love to lay down a new color. Interior is red & needs some work as well but I am fine with replacing things slowly even if they dont match. Also to save money I am most likely gonna have to paint the bumpers and some other trim as well. The problem is I am not sure if I should go for something different or lay down a basic color. If anyone has some ideas on a paint design that would sit on a gloss black chassis nice by all means share.
I have no idea what the value of my truck is in its current state re-assembled & the finished state. I also am unsure on future mechanical issues. Most things seem proper minus the leaks and stuff from first post. So I cant afford a money pit right now. Safely I only want to put enough money in it to break even so to say until I am confident in it. Anyone have any clues?
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That's a good looking truck! Great progress. ;)
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Good looking truck. As far as the clicking, check your drive shafts where they bolt to the axle and make sure the bolt heads arent hitting. I had this problem on my parts truck. Did you get the drive shafts lengthened. My front shaft wont go in after the lift, and was told I need a cv type joint in it.
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No I haven't done anything to the drive shaft. I have not looked into to much as I am not driving it right now but I will definitely look into your suggestions. Thanks
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Welcome from Ohio. Nice project.
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Thanks Guys!
I have a few questions maybe some of you veterans can give me some answers on. I have never change the front diff or the transfer case on this truck yet. I have no idea what type of fluids are in it now & I am unsure what to change it to now? You always hear those horror stories about after switching to this or flushing that you get leaks or problems down the road. Any tips or suggestions?
By the way ordered my cab corners today, one is back ordered. Had snow yesterday, nicer today.
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I like 87's too. Some of the best threads here center around the color of paint a guy is thinkin about. :D
For parts, did you see that Capt.Kaos who owns this site,can supply you with most needed parts at very good prices. He has a link to the catalogue on the home page. Good luck with your build! Lookin good.
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By the way ordered my cab corners today, one is back ordered.
You apparently didn't get them from me as they aren't on backorder.
For parts, did you see that Capt.Kaos who owns this site,can supply you with most needed parts at very good prices. He has a link to the catalogue on the home page.
Actually it is linked here too where the banner is displayed.
Hard to say what fluids you need for the Trans/t-case as you didn't tell us which one you have, but for autos Dexron, for the diffs gear oil.
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As far as the clicking, check your drive shafts where they bolt to the axle and make sure the bolt heads arent hitting. I had this problem on my parts truck. Did you get the drive shafts lengthened. My front shaft wont go in after the lift, and was told I need a cv type joint in it.
Checked it over and they are close but no evidence of anything hitting. Driveshaft has not been lengthened & front seems fine. I purchased the lift as a whole kit and never mentioned the drive shaft but who know maybe I need too. Is there an easy way for myself to tell?
Some of the best threads here center around the color of paint a guy is thinkin about. :D
Yeah! I want to lay down a metallic but not experienced enough to spray that. Ive painted small stuff here & there. Only big project was a 78 Baja Boat full restoration for a friend bc/cc. Color layed great clear oranged. Go figure! Just was looking for ideas to start with!
You apparently didn't get them from me as they aren't on backorder.
Actually it is linked here too where the banner is displayed.
Hard to say what fluids you need for the Trans/t-case as you didn't tell us which one you have, but for autos Dexron, for the diffs gear oil.
Honestly I completely missed that. I am getting a good deal now but I have to get alot of things over time so now I no.
By the way right now I am getting parts from my cousins custom chopper place. He gets next day no shipping if in stock.
Door Shells 100.00 ea.
20" Cab Corners 20.50 ea.
Inner Fenders 38.00 ea.
So I cant really beat those prices against online shipping & freight charges.
As far as numbers go I am making a list of all markings so I know for future reference. I want to learn the ins and outs of this truck so I am looking for all the grease fittings & your routine maintenance things. I do know that the engine is not the original. It had a 305 and was swapped by previous to a 350. Not sure what it originally came from so I need to search this as well. I believe it was approx. 88 Van.
I should get one cab corner tomorrow I see if I want to try it on my own with the flux-cored. Got both tanks & the frame all primed and ready for black. Its do to rain for the next few days here so I was hoping to get all the numbers and do some tear down and maintenance with the down time. So if you all dont mind I might just jump on here and ask some questions as I go.
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Got some numbers but I can't find the rest of the block numbers.
Transfer Case - Model# 208-C, Assembly# 1400 8249, Ratio# 261
Engine - Casting#10054727, Stamped Canada on Passenger side rear
Transmission - Metal Plate 329 on top 87 LDA- 6327 on bottom, stamped on the side of tranny 8633155
I guess I gotta find the rest of the numbers. A quick search on the engine gave me the following info...
87-95 350 BLOCK ID # VIN CODE "K" HEAD ID #
10054727 14093638
14102193
Notes: TBI, 10/30 Series, 1 piece rear main seal, 2-bolt mains, center bolt valve covers, no fuel pump hole in block
89-92 350 Block ID # VIN CODE "8" HEAD ID #
14093638
10054727
14101083, 14096217
Notes: TPI, Camaro w/cast iron heads, roller lifters, center bolt valve covers
89-93 350 Block ID # VIN CODE "7" HEAD ID #
14093638
10054727
14102191, 10110810
Notes: TBI, 1 piece rear main seal, roller lifters, center bolt valve covers
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I can not for the life of me find the proper info on my engine. I cant find the suffix code anywhere.
Casting#
10054727
Suffix & Partial Vin#
K0222PHC
CJ4138041
I know from McKinnon (Canada) Feb. 22nd, but I have came up empty on the PHC suffix code.
Anyone have some books they wouldnt mind lookin into.
Rick
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All the Suffix code is going to tell you is what application the engine came in. As for rebuilding it is irrelevant since you already know it is a 1 piece rear 87-up 350 block.
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I Got a little extra cash so I order both door shells & the rear shocks yesterday. Doors will be in today but i'll get over the weekend hopefully. Picked up that cab corner yesterday too.
Looked a little intimidating & not sure of what I was getting into. You can see in the pic below someone else's handy work there. About a 1/4 inch + of bondo & no butt welds. Well after some liquid courage I gave it a shot. Surprisingly I think it came out well for a first timer. I was worried about the flux-cored but no problems. So I feel confident to do the other side now.
I tried to post some pictures but it wouldnt let me.
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Well after some liquid courage I gave it a shot.
That stuff works great!
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That stuff works great!
Yes it Does!
Pictures still arent working so I put them on image shack for now.
The New Cab Corner
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1793/1002053t.jpg)
Before
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8973/1002054s.jpg)
After
(http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3395/1002073h.jpg)
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That's funny! I use the same courage.lol ;D Great work.
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Sweet! I just noticed the alum. boat that doubles as tool and parts storage!! Is that a red Craftsman Rally Box I spy?
I used the same method for two years until my wife finally convinced me to sell the boat. Now where the heck am I going to put my spare parts!
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Sweet! I just noticed the alum. boat that doubles as tool and parts storage!! Is that a red Craftsman Rally Box I spy?
I used the same method for two years until my wife finally convinced me to sell the boat. Now where the heck am I going to put my spare parts!
No on the craftsman box. Just junk ones I got as a kid. I use them for scrap metal. That boat is staying but funny you mention it because the pleasure boat has got to go. I just got way to much stuff and the weather here is not cooperating so I cant move it out therefor storage. Whatever is in there I work with it!
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Hey guys! Been a bit since my last post & been tied up in house maintenance.
Anyhow Got a question. On the cab corners where the seem meets with the rocker the other owner welded one side, inside that groove.
Should I...
(A) Grind down the weld as best as I can & use seam sealer & if so how do I apply the sealer, just a small amount or build it out.
(B) Re-weld the groove back in and glass them so it looks like a one piece if so will the glass hold up well.
I kind of like the idea of glassing them as a one piece but I am not sure if that would be a stupid move on my part. I want it to hold out.
On to the truck... Got all of the chassis & undersides coated with the gloss black & finally getting my other cab corner & some extras today.
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I did on my truck and like the look
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Hey guys! Been awhile since I posted anything. I am still moving along just not as fast as I wish I could be. I have had so many obstacles thrown at me here. I have found so many quick fix spots on this it isnt funny. Bondo where bondo wasnt needed and so on. So I opted to sandblast the majority of things so that took some extra time too. Also lost part of the tip of my finger and just removed stitches from my leg due to the exhaust tips cutting down and just into my muscle. It was a straight stab into my leg from sidestepping into it. It was kinda neat in a weird way.
But anyhow I haven't given up. I have basically everything but some minor trim parts primed and sealed awaiting paint. I have the paint just my guns have been picky with the primer so I'm workin up the just go for it attitude here. This is just a couple quick pics for now.
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Well got some more problems. I was sold single stage enamel and I didnt double check it. I sprayed the backside of the inner fenderwells and some misc pieces. Looked alright minus some dust and a little orange in some spots, give it 24hrs go back out to wetsand, flip and do the inside and my door jams & the paint is soft enough that you can stick your finger nail in and leave a little mark. Thats when I realized it ws enamel.
Anyhow I am not putting that on my truck after everything I did. Originally I was going with a ss urethane, but now I got some questions. Is a ss urethane soft as well? Or should I just do a AU with clear?
My only problem is that I can only do one side of parts at a time and my gun is not the greatest. It is a craftsman 1.5mm hvlp so it might be to big for clear. So I havent quite figured out how I am gonna spray this yet. Any advice would be great!
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them tips are dangerous..ive sliced my hand open on mine a time or 2 when ever i washed the truck
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I used SS urethane on my truck. I was happy with it. It's not very soft. I will say though its sensitive to preparation.
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Another factor is the mixing ratio. And air temperature.Should at least give it a few days to fully cure before any wetsanding and polishing should occur.
thanks
pat
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I was always told to wait a week or so before color sanding I am not a painter, but there are a few here. I'm sure one of them will steer you in the right direction.
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your transfer case will prolly take dextron also, I know the 208 in the mid to late 80's started taking dextron instead of gear oil.