73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Interior & Equipment => Instrumentation => Topic started by: GoatBeard on April 02, 2009, 03:38:19 pm
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This might be a stoopid question, but....
I'm trying to get the clear plastic cover off my instrument cluster so I can clean it. I took all the screws out but the dial for the clock gauge is holding the clear plastic cover on there and I can't figure out how to get the needle off the clock! I'm afraid if I keep on I'm gonna break the needle, so I thought you guys might know. I tried screwing it and pulling on it... I figured the "handle" part of the dial would just pull off and allow the cover to slide off, but it's not budging.
I can take pictures if that makes no sense.
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Mine has a small flat head screw that once you take out, the knob comes off the stem, allowing the plastic lens to slide over the clock stem.
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The little black knob unscrews.
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Glad you mentioned that little flat-head screw -- I think they stole it off a pair of glasses! It was tiny! Thanks!
Okay, so I've now got the clear cover off, I've taken the 3 screws out of the bezel that holds the instruments in... What's the key to getting it out (the plastic piece that the instruments are actually screwed to)? Do I just pull it, or is there a secret?
I'm just trying to get to the light bulbs to replace them. There's no way to get to the blinker blubs without pulling that whole thing and going from the back.
I've considered replacing them with LEDs, anyone done that?
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Removing the harness and speedometer cable and flipping the whole unit over in your lap to get to the bulbs is actually the best way to get to the bulbs. Just a 1/4 turn and the bulb housing is in your fingers.
The thing with LED's is that they are only going to work one way. In other words, the hot side of the circuit board has to contact the hot side of the bulb (and the bulbs aren't marked). Incandescent bulbs don't have this limitation. So, statistically your going to install half the bulbs wrong. Plug up the harness and test before you mount the housing it back in the hole.
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Thanks ccz,
I think I'm gonna take my front seat back out. I can't get to anything behind the dash. Mayhaps I can con the wife into helping. ;)
Is there any advantage to using LEDs?
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Pros: LEDs are brighter and last longer.
Cons: You can't dim them.
Personally, I don't like bright dash lights, they mess up my night vision. I dim them as low as I can. Just makes it easier on the eyes for me.
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I'll try to post pics of my freshly finnished gauges and dash tomorrow. I recently completely disassembled my entire cluster,changed everything over to white faces, and added 5 bulb LED's that I bought from Ebay.
My LED's are perfect.......as the pic's will show. I did go one step further though. When I had everything disassembled I cleaned the cluster housing and the backside of the gauge overlay trim and shot it with that Krylon "slim can" chrome paint. The results really helped out IMO.
I strongly suggest going with a quality LED though. Just plug everything up before fully reinstalling the cluster and you'll be able to swap polarity on any of the LED's installed incorrectly.
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If you decide to use regular bulbs buy them in the bulk box. I think theres 10 in the box, of course I needed 11. It will save you $$$ versus buying them in the 2-pack. Might as well polish both sides of the lens while your at it and clean the inside of the bezel. I painted the inside of the bezel with silver chrome paint. Not sure how it looks lit up I haven't put it back in yet.
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I'd love to see some pictures!
If I do nothing else I will definitely clean everything. 26 years of dust...::cough::
My clock will tick about 10 times then it stops. If I touch it it'll start again. I thought I might put some 3 in 1 oil on the mechanism. Anyone?
Also, my speed-o has developed the "chirp" we all know and love. Will putting some 3 in 1 oil into the end of it help that problem? In the past I just changed the whole cable, but thought this might be just as good. It's only doing it occasionally -- well, you'all know how they do.
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Also, my speed-o has developed the "chirp" we all know and love. Will putting some 3 in 1 oil into the end of it help that problem? In the past I just changed the whole cable, but thought this might be just as good. It's only doing it occasionally -- well, you'all know how they do.
Only use oil if it is already wet. I'd use graphite if it's dry. I have soaked the inner cable in trans fluid before and it works for a long time, but it eventually gets dirty and gums up. Graphite lasts longer.
The clock will run off a 9v battery, just letting you know if you want to take it out and lube/clean it you can test it before you put it back together.
Be careful witht he guage faces, won't take much cleaning to ruin them.
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I went out to take everything off this morning. Of course I couldn't get to anything so I had to move the front seat out of my way. You make unhooking the speedo cable and wiring harness sound easy! I think I'm gonna have the truck totally apart before I get to that stuff! The things we will do just to change a bulb! :D
When I unhook the harness, is there 1 central cluster to disconnect it or is it in multiples for each gauge? I can't see behind at all so I can't tell what I'm supposed to unhook.
Also, doesn't the speedo cable just unscrew? It's been a long time since I've removed one and since I'm basically working blind I thought I'd ask.
Thanks!
(PS, I got my amp in yesterday! WOOHOO!)
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When I unhook the harness, is there 1 central cluster to disconnect it or is it in multiples for each gauge? I can't see behind at all so I can't tell what I'm supposed to unhook.
Also, doesn't the speedo cable just unscrew? It's been a long time since I've removed one and since I'm basically working blind I thought I'd ask.
Yep, one central harness to unplug.....just be sure to use caution when unplugging it so that you don't damage the printed circuit sheet.
Also, the speedo does just unclip from the back I believe.....if not then it unscrews...pretty easy really.
I'll try to shoot pics tonight when it's dark..... I was out hanging with some guys and forgot to take pics of my truck even though I brought my camera along.
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Well guys, there was no getting to anything on the back of that gauge cluster. There just wasn't enough room to get my hand behind there. I couldn't even touch the speedo cable within' 6" of where it connects to the gauge. I've never seen anything like that before.
I had 2 bulbs out so I got a pair of needle-nose and wrapped them with a paper towel. I was able to get the bulbs out that way. Turns out both bulbs were still good. I got them both working. I also fixed the drive indicator and have started the amp install.
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Just a word of caution to anyone cleaning their gauges. DONT us SPrayaway glass cleaner. I learned the had way. It will remove thelettering. I just use a soft, dry cloth.
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I'm not sure whats going on here. Do you have everything loose and you can't get the bezel slide out? If so check outside the firewall to see if there is enough slack in the speedo cable to allow you to pull it forward. If the wrong cable has been but on you may have to loosen the speedo cable at the tranny to have enough slack to pull the bezel out enough to be able to get behind it. Mine needed a 63" inch speedo cable and I ended up with a 61" making it impossible to pull the cluster out without loosening it at the tranny first. Sometimes a couple of inches can make all the difference in the world ;D
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Just a word of caution to anyone cleaning their gauges. DONT us SPrayaway glass cleaner. I learned the had way. It will remove thelettering. I just use a soft, dry cloth.
I was just hunting to see if somebody had said that already. ;D
Are you trying to unhook the speedo from underneath? You have to do it from above. You unscrew the cluster and pull it out enough to get your hand back there and release the speedo cable. If it won't pull out far enough, look under the hood and find where the cable goes into the cab and get as much slack as you can. if all else fails, unhook the cable at the tranny and you'll have all the slack you need.
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You guys are exactly right. The speedo cable was TIGHT. The cluster wouldn't pull out but about 2" and there was no getting my hand behind it.
I didn't know the trick so I just went about it a different way. I'm glad to know that to remove it I have to gain slack from the cable from either under the hood or at the transmission. Hopefully that information will never be needed, but it's not something that I'll ever forget if I do ever need to "go in" again.
Thanks guys!
PS.
Installing the amp has turned into a full-blown month + long resto-mod of the interior AGAIN. :D
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As promised here are the pics of my dash....
Daytime:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Texslot/My%20Chevy%20truck%20resto%20project%20pics/82chevytruck006.jpg)
Night:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b135/Texslot/My%20Chevy%20truck%20resto%20project%20pics/82chevytruck002.jpg)
Kind of a funny angle, but hopefully you can get an idea of what I have.
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Wow, now you are making me rethink it! That looks great! :o
Did you say the lights are white or blue?
Where do you get the white gauge stuff from?
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Wow, now you are making me rethink it! That looks great! :o
Did you say the lights are white or blue?
Where do you get the white gauge stuff from?
My gauge overlay kit I bought from Ebay. I bought the gauge kit and the Hvac kit....I think they were around $37 shipped?
The LED's are true white....I hate colored LED's. My tach is a 5" Autometer Cobalt C2 with shift light....and unfortunately the bulb in it is a blue color. I may have to send the tach back in to Autometer for repair and if I do I'll request that they change the bulb to a white one.
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Thanks for the info.
Did you see where you could pay 'em an extra $30 an get these colors? http://stores.shop.ebay.com/White-Gauges__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ19602092
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Thanks for the info.
Did you see where you could pay 'em an extra $30 an get these colors? http://stores.shop.ebay.com/White-Gauges__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ19602092
Yeah, that's a cool feature if someone was doing a wild custom interior with alot of graphics...but I just wanted my gauges to look mostly factory....just white ;)