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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Highs (Raising/Lifts) => Topic started by: bigfosty on April 15, 2009, 04:02:29 am

Title: Lift question
Post by: bigfosty on April 15, 2009, 04:02:29 am

I purchased a six inch rough country lift for my truck, springs up front, add a leafs and blocks in the rear and I was wondering...

Is it a straight up install, or will the driveline need to be changed, brake lines, etc....?

Thanks for any insight.

P.S.- It's a 1975 Chevy K-10

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: dirtmod0 on April 15, 2009, 05:56:44 am

basically a straight install. You should have a brake line extension that bolts to the rear cover bolt hole. You may also have to do something with your parking brake cable as well, mine is coming off tonight limiting travel. my heckathorn shocks wont fit on my lower bracket on diff. housing gonna have to grind the mount a little.

80 k10 4 inch rough country

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: Blazin on April 15, 2009, 07:01:23 am

Personal opinion, get the longer stainless steel braided brake lines.

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: levisjohnson on April 15, 2009, 10:28:32 am

I agree with Blazin on the braided lines

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: bigfosty on April 15, 2009, 03:28:01 pm

I was planning on doing the brake lines anyway, but it might have to wait a while after I get the lift on. The driveline should be fine though?

Thanks guys.

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: VileZambonie on April 15, 2009, 04:05:01 pm

Ususally I drop the transfer case down an inch. Check your driveline angles and driveshaft lengths too.

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: oldwhity on April 15, 2009, 08:34:49 pm

Hopefully it came with a steering or pitman arm.

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: bigfosty on April 15, 2009, 09:02:38 pm

It did come with a pitman arm.

How do I drop the transfer case?

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: BigHemi353 on April 20, 2009, 04:43:17 pm

where is the best place to buy the extended stainless braided brake lines? i have an 86 3/4 and its getting a 6in. thanks, Andy

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: Irish_Alley on April 22, 2009, 05:03:58 am

i got mine from roughcountry.com but you can go to sumit  jegs

Title: Re: Lift question
Post by: Antti on April 22, 2009, 07:12:12 am

Yes, you MIGHT get away with it by lowering the transfer case. I've heard that some trucks have sleeves for the transfer case crossmember bolts inside the frame rails, that you can put between the crossmember and the frame rail. Mine didn't, so I did it this way (the third photo):
http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=10699.0 (http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=10699.0)

I think that solid block, through which the both bolts would go, would be a lot better. And I wouldn't go with much greater drop either, since dropping the crossmember twists the engine mounts, and puts the eng, trans and transfer case  in a funny angle.
Your front drive shaft can still be too short after the drop, it depends on the truck.

By the way, if you get new brake lines, I can recommend to swap bleeders to the ones w/ ball valves at the same time. I got Russel Performance Speed Bleeders, and bled the brake fluid system all by myself. Much, much easier way than the traditional...

Brake line fitting and bleeder threads changed around '77-'78 from imperial to metric. Mine is a '78, has already a corporate 10 bolt front axle, but it's still with inch-threads. Also, the 5/16" or M8 bleeders at the rear are so close to same, that if you check which threads you have, do it at the front axle (3/8" vs. M10). This was just info if anyone with same age truck than mine is reading, if you have '75 or '86 it's pretty obvious which threads you have...