73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 4x4orbust on May 16, 2009, 09:12:07 am
-
i am still working on cleaning up the engine bay on the 82 (lots of work!!) and i need help identifying this part. also, what is it's function??
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/IMG_0781.jpg)
there are some vacuum lines that run to it, they come from the manifold vacuum behind the carb. i have probably 4 different vacuum lines coming out of that port, is this to much? i know that the transmission vacuum line runs into it. (possible reason for late 1-2 shifts?)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/IMG_0775.jpg)
lastly, i was having problems with starting the truck (very rough intitial startup, after engine warms up starts fine) and came to the conclusion it was the choke, so i tied the choke open. this solved a couple issues:
truck starts much better, no rough initial startup, and now my secondaries are operating properly. ( wouldn't open previously)
is this a problem with the electric choke, or with the linkeages?
i would like to fix the choke, the winters are cold and it is a plow truck. summer startups are fine.
thanks for your help, if more info is needed, i will try to describe better.
thanks
phil
-
Pic number 1 is your cruise control.
Take a pic centered on your choke, it doesn't look like the elect. connector is pluged in. I can barely make out what I think is a spade connector at the bottom of the choke housing.
Hey, is that a section of garden hose running down the length of your intake manifold? ???
-
i'm not even sure if the cruise control works, i might end up removing it, the sock that's holding it in is getting a little rough.... (sock provided by previous owner)
this is a pic i have offhand of the elec. choke. spade connector is in, and has power when key on. all linkage operate smoothly by hand, not sure if they are working right on their own. i tied the green tab and the silver tab above it wide open. not sure if it makes a difference, but it has an edelbrock intake, not sure which one. (how can i tell?)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/IMG_0777.jpg)
yes that is a garden hose, i guess a makeshift heat shield?! (also provided by previous owner.)
also, can anyone tell me if my vacuum advance is plugged into the right port on the carb? what about the other hose from the valve cover, what is that for?
-
It's a Performer intake a dual plane intake with provision for EGR which the Performer RPM does not have. I would get the choke working correctly otherwise you are going to have some drivability issues especially come winter.
-
Did you tie the choke plate open? My elec. choke wasn't working either because of another electrical issue in mine. What I did was take the cover on the electric choke off, and if I have trouble starting it I just hold the little lever that closes that plate with a paper clip (ghetto I know.) The only issue this has caused is that with the coil in the choke not putting any tension at all on that lever is that there isn't anything to turn the linkage on the other side to reset the throttle on the fast idle cam. SO even if the weather is not such that I need the choke (TEXAS) I DO still have to open the throttle enough to reset the cam, which squirts a little gas into the carb, which has been known to cause SOME starting issues in and of itself from time to time. All and all though it's a lot better than driving around all day on full choke, which SUCKS, and I can still manipulate the choke when I need to. You might try that until you can figure out how to get your electric choke working again. It's just a temporary fix for me until I can get another printed circuit for mine.
I have seen conversion kits to turn an elec. back into a manual at autozone. They are like ten bucks though which makes me hesitant to try it. Does anyone have any experience with these?
-
Yes i tied the choke plate open, now it has only one setting: off. I am trying to figure out what i should be replacing, or adjusting, to get the choke operating properly, with no mickey mousing.
still have the question of whether the vacuum advance is plugged into the correct port. she runs fine, just want to make sure. also, what is the line running from the valve cover?
the manifold vacuum behind the carb has a few lines running out of it. is there such a thing as too many lines on a vacuum port?
-
Looks like vacuum advance is in the right place, that's a later carb than mine. You might try the port above the fuel filter and see if it runs better.
Take the cover off the choke and see if the bi-metal coil is broken or disconnected.
The hose from the valve cover is vacuum for the pvc (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system... keeps presure from building up in the crankcase from blowby.
-
the cover has rivets, so i'm assuming just drill them out. should i be marking the cover before i pull it? (as in where it's positioned) are there adjustments that can be made while the cover is off? i have a factory repair manual, but after reading it i am more confused than before.
-
Just close the choke flap, put 12v to the terminal on the chocke coil, have a beer and see if it opens.
-
You need a vacuum check valve in the vacuum advance hose...it is in the correct port according to the vacuum diagram on my 82. Buy a 1406 edelbrock carb. It worked great on my 305 and I didnt have an aftermarket intake, so yours would probably do better.
-
I wouldn't remove it, it's all still there and it can be fixed. You might want it for a road trip or something someday...
-
does the speedometer run through the cruise control? i may end up keeping it, can anyone tell me where in the engine bay it is typically mounted? mine is currently resting on a sock on the inner fender, pretty sure that's not how it came from the factory.