73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: cowboy63645 on June 08, 2009, 11:09:19 pm
-
I am looking to inboard the leaf springs on the rear of my 87 C-10. Are there any kits available or is this stuff that I will have to make? I will be boxing the rear portion of the frame and adding mini tubs in the bed to run a 325/40/17 tire. I am only looking at lowering the truck 3"-4" in the rear. Any help is appreciated
-
How about switching sides with your shackles?
-
Cowboy, As Blazin' mentioned...This is a weekend job. Remove the front & back hanger rivets from the frame, unbolt the U-bolts on the rearend (your taking the spring, hangers & shackles out as an assembly) & switch sides. You will need to remove the triangle brace at the front hanger (I would cut it to fit in with the hanger on the inside & put it back in) & notch the bottom of the frame in the four places where the hangers go. A whole bag of hardened bolts & your all set. The only other "fab" work will be the shock mounts.
Personally, I would do a flip kit while your there doing the new perch placement.
One thing I'm wondering is...How big are these tires? They don't seem to me that any of this is needed for a tire about that size. I couldn't find the exact dimensions of it, but it appears to be about 27.5" x 11", if this is the case, you don't need to do anything to the springs to make these fit. Any questions...just ask! Lorne
-
325 are like 12.5 micky's im doing the leaf swap too but im using 16.5" mickys im doing a c notch and flip
6.2 diesel turbo
-
I think anything over 14" wide is where interference starts as for how to mount them plate the inside remove the left outside and mount it to the right inside, switch for the right...
-
I have been thinking about doing this for years... See here:
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/tub.htm
I have also thought about going this route:
http://www.73-87.com/readers_rides/fleetside/armstrong.htm
-
Yes, The top idea is what I was referring to however if the bottom of the frame is notched & the hangers slid in, there is no drilling or plating required & once welded in, stronger than original. Also the springs end up part way under the frame (taking up less room for exhaust, fuel cell, shocks, ect.) which would make it more stable around bends & if you want even wider tires than shown in the pictures...the shocks can go about where they have the springs. Lorne
-
My thought, and idea of what I plan on doing is welding in a rectangle tubing brace about 2-3" in front of the rear springs, cutting the back half off, remove the bracing on the back half, swapping the entire frame/spring combo, and rewelding them to the rectangle tubing, and narrow and reinstall the braces in the rear. Narrow the rear axle and change spring perches. Caltracs should still work with this setup.
-
Chevalade, How big of tires are you planning to run? I can't see the need to cut the truck in half...A 18"+ tire will fit without cutting the frame. The real "problem" with the design is that the springs are way out beside the frame, to leave it that way while trying to narrow it just makes less room for other items. A couple other options which require a little bit more work than I described originally, but are less work/better than cutting the frame & very do-able are: (1) Make new hangers with the springs closer to the frame (& move the shocks inboard) good for another 2" or so. (2) Make a front hanger under the frame & use a slider in the back (move the shocks inboard), this would be the ideal set-up if you need THAT much room, still not requiring cutting the frame, leaves room for an average fuel cell, stock bed mounting, ect. ect. The problem I see with that is the ground clearance would be a little less. My Two cents, Lorne
-
Chevalade, How big of tires are you planning to run? I can't see the need to cut the truck in half...A 18"+ tire will fit without cutting the frame. The real "problem" with the design is that the springs are way out beside the frame, to leave it that way while trying to narrow it just makes less room for other items. A couple other options which require a little bit more work than I described originally, but are less work/better than cutting the frame & very do-able are: (1) Make new hangers with the springs closer to the frame (& move the shocks inboard) good for another 2" or so. (2) Make a front hanger under the frame & use a slider in the back (move the shocks inboard), this would be the ideal set-up if you need THAT much room, still not requiring cutting the frame, leaves room for an average fuel cell, stock bed mounting, ect. ect. The problem I see with that is the ground clearance would be a little less. My Two cents, Lorne
http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/street.php?item=SportsmanSR&sku=6687&size=33X22.00R18LT&type=SS
19.3" sidewall width...hehe.
Also looking to keep the truck as low as possible with a static drop (Prolly going to go with caltracs, monoleafs, and sliders) and still be able to street cruise with it.
To me it seems easier, just a lil welding/cutting. Bed mounting won't be that bad, just have to move the bed bolts toward the middle a few inches. Have to put in big tubs anyway. And not much cost in material. But if anyone sees any flaw in the logic I am open to ideas.
-
I have been thinking about doing this for years... See here:
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chassis_suspension/tub.htm
I have also thought about going this route:
http://www.73-87.com/readers_rides/fleetside/armstrong.htm
the 1987 mag is the way to go except for the outboard shocks and also why couldnt you, while you have it all apart lift the position on the hangers so the truck will ride lower and a flip kit oh c notch 2 im sure!!!