73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Mike Phillips on June 26, 2009, 02:38:33 pm
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Trying to figure out what these threaded holes are for and whether or not to plug them?
1. I'm guessing this is for an external oil cooler?
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/454MagnumInstalled015.jpg)
2. Not sure what these two holes are for? Do I need to plug them?
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/454MagnumInstalled014.jpg)
3. I'm guessing this hole is for my oil pressure line?
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/454MagnumInstalled016.jpg)
:)
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Oil pressure line? Do you have an external oil cooler? All you should need is your sending unit and yes plug the other holes.
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Having a hard time finding the 1/8th pipe thread hole for my oil line to the oil gage. Anyone with a Gen VI engine remember where they attached their oil pressure fitting?
This is actually a 3/8 coarse thread bolt hole for accessories.
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/454MagnumInstalled016.jpg)
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The one you are pointing at will work fine. You can get a brass reducer at any autoparts store or decent hardware store. The one you circled in the last post is not an oil galley.
I would recommend against running a hard line to the gauge if that's what you are doing. In a matter of seconds you can ruin your engine should that line leak. (yes I've seen it happen) And they can also leak oil all over your dash (speaking from experience)
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Is the circled hole for the clutch stud/z-bar??
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Is the circled hole for the clutch stud/z-bar??
I agree. The first pick with your finger in it should be oil pressure the one circled in the last pic looks like a bolt thread
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gen VI block? do not plug the "bigger" holes next to the oil filter those are cooler lines, if not using a cooler you need to connect the to via hard plumb or your motor will not get oil
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???
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The one you are pointing at will work fine. You can get a brass reducer at any auto parts store or decent hardware store. The one you circled in the last post is not an oil galley.
Done.
Picked up the brass reduce at NAPA and installed it into the hole just above the oil filter and then connected my oil pressure line.
Also picked up the adapter/reducer to install the water temperature gauge sensor into the driver's side head and installed it.
I plugged off these two holes with some plugs from the NAPA machine shop.
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/454MagnumInstalled014.jpg)
I would recommend against running a hard line to the gauge if that's what you are doing. In a matter of seconds you can ruin your engine should that line leak. (yes I've seen it happen) And they can also leak oil all over your dash (speaking from experience)
I understand the logic but I really like mechanical gauges. For now the stock mechanical gauge is hooked up, will look into alternatives.
Leaking Oil Line
At one point in the 20 years I owned this boat I ran a braided stainless steel oil pressure line to a gauge on the dash. One day while hot rodding around on Foster Reservoir about 20 miles north of Lebanon, Oregon, I felt something warm on my leg? Looked down and the stainless steel line had a pinhole leak and was spraying hot oil out in a stream like a squirt gun onto my leg.
I checked my oil pressure and it was okay so I motored into to the boat docks and shut her down. After that I installed a mechanical gauge onto the front of the aluminum motor mount for the engine, you can see it here if you look through the steering wheel. Above it is the water temperature gauge share a bolt that holds the stearo to the head of the engine. :)
(http://www.showcargarage.com/gallery/files/1/dragboat3smallerc.jpg)
One lesson learned was keep vital gauges close to the source of information, reduce potential for problems related to Murphy's Law, at least in a Drag Boat. :)
So I hear you on the gauge issue, but I really like a mechanical oil pressure gauge and a mechanical temperature gauge. When they work, you know everything is good. When they don't work... you shut the engine down ASAP and investigate. This of course requires the driver to monitor the gauges but most car guys do that as a natural reflex.
With any kind of system that relies on electricity to communicate a message over a medium to off-site location and maintain 100% reliability is a proven and time-tested alternative. The problem is when it stops working it's harder to troubleshoot, (at least for me). When the oil line leaked and sprayed hot oil onto my leg it was pretty easy to troubleshoot. I ran a high volume oil pump on the 402 big block chevey in the drag boat so the engine maintained enough oil pressure that I felt safe driving it back to the docks.
So I kind of lean towards mechanical gauges but have an open mind.
8)
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gen VI block? do not plug the "bigger" holes next to the oil filter those are cooler lines, if not using a cooler you need to connect the to via hard plumb or your motor will not get oil
Are you saying connect the two tapped holes next to (in front of) the oil filter location? As in, if they are both plugged no oil will flow through the engine?