73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: 77chevystepside on July 02, 2009, 08:23:16 am
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Hey engine builders!!! Will be talking with the engine builder about the rear main leaking after running the rebuilt motor less than 15 minutes. In the meantime, I am wondering what you guys know about rear main seals for these engines. Builder told me he can't get "good" seals for this engine year any more and he warned me the rear main may leak and it is. Will it get worse or better after I get some time on the motor. Is there a good rear main seal out there? I know a little drip is not a problem but just hate oil on the garage floor. If I can get the leak fixed with a "good" seal, I am going to do it. Don't want to insult the builder but, not happy it is leaking so early on. Should I accept that??
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you can still get rear main seals for your block, no problem. The leak WILL NOT get better with time.
1979 Big 10 5.7
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal3.JPG)
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal4.jpg)
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal5.JPG)
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal6.JPG)
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal7.JPG)
(http://www.delbridge.net/seal8.JPG)
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If it's a 77 block it is a piece seal. It should not leak unless it is improperly installed. With the two piece seals you can offset the seal so it doesn't line up flush with the bearing cap. An iddy biddy dab of RTV in the corner of the bearing cap CAREFULLY helps too. It's so easy to do when you're building the engine and more of a pain in the truck. Your engine builder is insulting you by telling you it's ok to leak.
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Well said Vile.
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Any kind of leak from a new or rebuilt engine is unacceptable. He may not be able to get a quality rear seal because he doesnt want to spend more than 99 cents. I dont know how much they are, but they arent expensive compared to the necessity of them being right. He messed up somehow, and doesnt want to own up to it. If the engine sat for a year or so, then maybe, but not on a fresh build.
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I hear you. He made a video of the rebuild at different stages showing the parts used, explaining the machine work done, etc. On the video I couldn't hear it well but it sounded like he said something about a crank and/or seal problem that "might cause a drip now and then".
Pictures are great. Sure helps me understand how it is done. Sounds to me like he may be doing it again!!
I will have to be talking to him soon because over the past 6 days and running it in the shop for 5 minutes twice I have a oil spot that is 8 inches across. Truck has not left the shop yet due to other work I am doing. Sure seems like a lot of leaking. Will keep you posted. Thanks
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to me thats more then a drip, mine drips, but at most 1-2 droplets a night(i use oil catcher pads) and its annoying for me, but nothing like that much over a week, hope he does it right and fixes it for ya.
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I went back to the builder and told him I am getting a 2 to 3 inch diameter puddle of oil when I drive the truck into the garage. He was surprized it is leaking that much but shrugged his shoulders and said, "Like I told you before, I can't get the offset seals any more and the crank had a groove". I wonder why he didn't have the crank welded up and machined to the right specs. I read somewhere this morning that can be done.
I am confused. Is there an offset seal or is it a matter of offsetting the two piece seal? I have been all over the internet this morning and a lot of forums have posts about 350 rear main seals leaking and lots of posts about "offsetting the seals" and using silicone. I read somewhere about FelPro off set seals being available.
I am going to camp on the leak a while and see how it goes. Only 100 miles on the engine now and not a daily driver so I have the time to be patient. I tightened the oil pan gasket to be sure that is not leaking but forgot to check valve covers in the back. I suppose it is possible oil may be running down the back of the engine.
Still want more info on "offset seals" or "offsetting seals". Thanks guys.
Thoughts please.
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He's full of it
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?displayName=Rear+Main+Seals&itemId=prod60608&navValue=15100534&parentId=cat30061&productId=67818&fromString=&itemIdentifier=67818_124565_9579_10894&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&isSearchByPartNumber=&categoryDisplayName=InternalEngine&store=5152&skuDescription=Felpro/RearMainSeals&fromWhere=&searchText=&_requestid=1352091
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Oh yeah.
This guy is really trying to give you the gears.
Next , he'll tell you his left handed monkey wrench was back ordered or he would have fixed it for you right away.
Offsetting the seal just means to not line up the joint at the same point that the block and bearing cap line up.
Its not an "offset " seal.
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He is trying to cover up the fact that he screwed up and hopes he can get you to wait long enough that it is too long to fix it.
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Pugsy, that seal I listed is an offset lip. This is designed to take care of the scored crank from a dried up old rear main.
Click Here (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?displayName=Rear+Main+Seals&itemId=prod60608&isSearchByPartNumber=&sortType=null&totalPages=[I@18d70de¤tPage=1&vehicleNValue=&navValue=15100534&parentId=cat30061&fromString=&fromWhere=null&filterByKeyWord=&categoryNValue=&categoryDisplayName=&_requestid=1465861)
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Whoops.
And here I was not trusting this guy.
Na...he's still full of it....1 drop of oil on a rebuild is unacceptable.
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thanks, I now have the answer I was looking for. This guy is a great guy and he will stand by the engine. Thanks for the Autozone link. Unfortunately, the closest one is 90 miles away. I am not convinced the seal isn't available through O'Reilly's or Napa which we have in town. Some local outlet can get the seal I am sure. Again, thanks guys for your expert advise!!
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Just use the FelPro # they can cross reference it.
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Thanks, will do!!