73-87chevytrucks.com

73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Lows (Lowering/Drops) => Topic started by: notguilty_25 on September 08, 2009, 10:05:12 pm

Title: flip kit question
Post by: notguilty_25 on September 08, 2009, 10:05:12 pm

im wantin the flip kit for my truck. but from what i read the bed has to come off???? wouldn't it just be a deal of supporting the frame and unbolting the leafs springs?? what would the bed have to come off?

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: bryan103 on September 08, 2009, 10:38:02 pm

I just pull both springs out and reposition them underneath.That way you dont have to break the brake line loose.

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: Flamingbig10 on September 08, 2009, 11:16:27 pm

the reason it would require the bed removed, it makes it easier to do a c-notch

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: Captkaos on September 09, 2009, 11:15:34 am

Ditto on the above that flammingbig10 posted.

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: notguilty_25 on September 09, 2009, 02:32:37 pm

bryan103-that was my idea exactly! ;) thats why i was wondering why the bed would have to come off. so im good now.
flamingbig10-thanks for the input on that too. what ever makes things easier. i may hold out on the cnotch if i can though. thanks guys!!

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: team39763 on September 15, 2009, 12:43:53 am

The flipkit install wasn't that bad.  I just threw some jackstands under the shackle mounts and pulled the leafs out.  I  used those $50 flip brackets from Ebay.  I didn't c-notch or pull off my bed.

I have a question, how do you make sure your diff is lined up straight after the flip kit?  My old GMC used to dogtrack real bad...I think that's what caused my accident(besides my speeding).

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: Irish_Alley on September 15, 2009, 01:57:57 am

you measure from the d side front wheel hub to the d side rear wheel hub, then on the p side make sure both numbers are the same. then you measure from the p side front hub to the drivers side rear hub. then d side front hub to the p side rear hub those two number should match if all numbers are the same then your true

drivers side front to drivers side rear = A
passengers side front to passengers side rear = A
Then
Drivers side front to passengers side rear = B
passenger side front to drivers side rear = B
 you should only have 2 numbers  A and B if thats all then your true
I've used this on building car trailers

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: team39763 on September 15, 2009, 08:39:42 am

Thanks, I'm gonna try that when I get a chance.

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: Captkaos on September 15, 2009, 05:23:28 pm

If it didn't dog track before it shouldn't after the flip, UNLESS you put the saddles on wrong.

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: N2TRUX on September 25, 2009, 08:18:59 pm

Quote from: team39763 on September 15, 2009, 12:43:53 am

I have a question, how do you make sure your diff is lined up straight after the flip kit?  My old GMC used to dogtrack real bad...

Answer? Don't use the 50.00 kit off of eBay. A quality kit will bolt under the stock spring perches. It will come with offset spacer to move your axle back to the center of the wheelwell.

Title: Re: flip kit question
Post by: team39763 on September 27, 2009, 08:40:07 pm

Quote from: N2TRUX on September 25, 2009, 08:18:59 pm

Quote from: team39763 on September 15, 2009, 12:43:53 am

I have a question, how do you make sure your diff is lined up straight after the flip kit?  My old GMC used to dogtrack real bad...

Answer? Don't use the 50.00 kit off of eBay. A quality kit will bolt under the stock spring perches. It will come with offset spacer to move your axle back to the center of the wheelwell.

True.