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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: werewolfx13 on October 04, 2009, 08:03:42 pm
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The problem I thought I fixed by replacing my cap, rotor, coil, ignition module, and ignition switch has come back..Today I replaced the ESC dist. with an Accel hei distributor, reused my accel super coil, still same problem. Gets fuel, gets power to the distributor both on key on and cranking, but no spark. My next plan of attack is to replace the coil (for the second time this year) with another high performance coil of some kind. Can anyone think of any other problems before I go drop another $80 on another coil? I ruled out my tach first off by disconnecting it. Everyone thus far has agreed with me, I've eliminated all other options.
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Make sure the button in the center of the distributer cap is making good contact with the rotor, and the spring at the end is making good contact with the coil. Most autoparts places can test the coil before you buy a new one, so try that as well.
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You could also just buy the replacement coil they sell at the store, prolly like $20. . . is this a daily driver?
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You replaced this distributor with an accel distributor from where? Is this a new dist?
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new dist from auto zone, truck is a daily driver, but its driven hard...Since my dad has bought two 300 I6 Fords and still has no hitch on his only GM truck, I've been dragging a homebuilt 3 axle trailer packing 14,000+ lbs of logs when one of them goes down usually 2-3 times a month, and even with no load, I wail on my truck. It sees a fair amount of 4k+ rpm driving. I replaced the distributor for two reasons: 1, I wanted the upgrade, 2, I wanted to rule out the distributor itself rather than just bypass the ESC. The new dist is an accel p/n 59107c.
I'll have the coil checked out before I replace it, I'll also check the spring and button connection.
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so you fixed it and it ran but then the problem came back? not sure if i told you this before but i was having problems with my dis. it was getting power up to the dis but no spark. then i realized i bent the male connection in the dis the female was plugging in but no contact between the two
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I've checked that over, as I had the coil on and off a couple times,the connections are still straight. I'll make another note of it when I check the button and spring. I'll also check that the ground is making good contact.
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so you fixed it and it ran but then the problem came back?
are you reusing anything else?
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I don't know what the original prolbem was but If it was ignition Eliminated the ESC would be my first step.
Are you using the same distributor connector. Did you get a new distributor with and ESC hookup or did you modify the wiring to eliminate it?
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new dist is an accel that eliminated the esc entirely, ONLY thing i reused was the coil, which i had checked today and its good, checked the new ign module several times and its good, tried swapping the button and made sure the spring makes good contact, all OK..all the cranking recently, as well as being the same starter as was in the truck when I bought it has brought the starter to the end of its life, it cranks twice strong then rolls over slow, even with 3 different batteries that are all known to be good and fully charged, as well as trying to jump it at the same time. So, tomorrow after work it looks like I'm going to see if the spare starter I have will fit..If that doesn't fix it, the manager at AZ said they'd exchange the distributors with me when they get another in on thursday, with the pickup coils being suspect.
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granted its under warranty but a pick up coil in the long run would just be cheaper if they gave that to you and i think they can be tested with a ohms tester. when you said no spark you mean you pulled a wire and had a test light on it?
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I pulled a wire and used an extra spark plug grounded against the block. I tried all 4 of my extra plugs and two different wires to assure it wasn't a fluke.
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So you were trying to see the spark across the electrode while it was in the truck? Was this in daylight?
I generally put a screw driver in it and ground it against a body panel so I can see the spark jump.
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Pull the cap off and make sure the rotor is turning. Cam chain could be broken or roll pin could be broken or missing in the gear on the distributor.
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Once I've got the battery charged again, I'll double check to be sure the rotor is turning, I'm 99% sure it is, as its been in different locations each time I've taken the cap off. I used a plug grounded against my ground bolt on the passenger side of the motor at about 8:30 pm, so it was plenty dark, and there isn't even the faintest hint of a spark. Tomorrow evening I'm going to see if replacing the starter and trickle charging the battery full has corrected the slow starter, if it hasn't, I'm going to pull the distributor out and see if it cranks fine again. I know the distributor turned fine by hand before I put it in.
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Good news, I have spark. Now my only problem left (I hope) is my new starter needs to be shimmed..its acting like its way too tight. Part of the lack of spark was a low battery, which I thought I ruled out by charging it, which would have been true except my 25 year old battery charger kicked the bucket, and only puts out 10.3v. Dropped the battery off at AZ to have it charged, picked it up, dropped it in, tried to start, but the truck cranks like something is "too tight", however, I checked for spark again and got a decent looking spark..Once the shim is in, I think I'll be free and clear, needing only to tweak the timing a little...If not, my next course of action is to pick up a matched set of batteries and build a drivers battery tray, which I've been meaning to do for over a year now anyway.
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The truck is running, the starter ended up not needing to be shimmed, I just advanced the timing til it started fine, and there is no sound of a dragging starter..I'm going to have to play with the springs a bit to see if I can turn the dist back a little, although I can't actually time it correctly, as the timing tab has been removed at some point.
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Fuuny thing is, thats how I set the timing on most of mine anyway. turn it till it drags when cranking, then back it of till it starts quickly. Lock it down and enjoy. May not be correct but works for me.
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Garr, headaches galore..Truck drove fine running errands before work, got me to work, on my way home from work however, I went around a curve and it died, I figured the timing being off a bit still, i just let the idle drop too low..so I pull over, put er in park, and try to start. nothing..no crank, nothing. I assume the ignition switch has shifted, so I reach under the dash and grab the switch, and something touches the back side of my hand and burns the pee out of it, i flip the switch off, but everything stays on, then smoke begins rising from under the dash, very quickly..I popped the hood, bailed out and yanked the ground and power terminals off the battery asap..Peek under the dash and a decent size bundle of factory taped wires are no longer taped, and are also no longer individually insulated, instead are now about a single 4/0 cable. So, I'll probably fix my car and drive it this winter while I either rebuild the wiring harness, or replace it with a painless harness. All i have to say now is..nuts.
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AWWW MAN! That sucks bro, I hope you can get it sorted out soon. I vote for the painless harness. All the painless stuff that I've worked with has been great. Good luck with it dude.
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That sucks man but make sure you check your wires going to the starter and up to the junction block. You should have fusible links there. If you had proper circuit protection there it shouldn't have burned up your harness. If the ignition switch wasn't installed correctly it could very well be the culprit. You should be able to get a pigtail or dodnor harness and just replace the faulted wires. Good luck