73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Wheels & Tires => Topic started by: 87OldYeller on October 14, 2009, 08:21:18 pm
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I put the wheels and tires on my truck today, but turns out they are 8 inch not 10 inch. So anyone have any thoughts on 2 inch wheel spacers for the rear, my old wheels and tires were flush with the rear fenders and the new rims are about 2 inches inside of the rear fenders.
http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY0883.jpg
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2" spacers are fine.
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if you have the same size rim front and back, you will want a 1.5" spacer to make the track width the exact same.
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2" spacers are fine.
2-inches per side! That is a ridiculous spacer!
My $0.02: Spacers are no good. Do yourself a favor and go get the 10-inch wheels. I personally have seen spacers lead to all sorts of problems, some much worse than others (suspension/tire wear, bearing failure, etc).
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thanks for all the info. just, i bought a set of wheels and tires's and put them on turns out there the rims are 8" so i think i am just gonna put back on my 10" wheels
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I've run 2" spacers on 38" tires an NEVER had a problem.
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oh ok well i mean i have the 10' wheels and tire i took off. just when i put on the new rims, the off set is different, the one's i took off were deep dish, just the back tire with the new rims is not flush with the rear fender, there tucked inside and i dont like the way they look, but set of spacers will cost me about 60 bucks or i might just sell these wheel and tires. Dont know.
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Anytime I do up a 1/2 ton 4x4 I use the 2" spacers to widen the rear track.
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vile, where do you get your spacers?
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Anytime I do up a 1/2 ton 4x4 I use the 2" spacers to widen the rear track.
Let me guess, you also install negative offset wheels on them, too, because you like the deep-dish look?
The problem with spacers and uber-negative offset wheels is that they effectively change the moment arm for all of the tire loadings onto the suspension components. Its like using a pipe extension on a breaker bar. The applied loads don't change, but the moment that the knuckle/axle/bearing must resist is doubled or more, especially with a spacer as large as 2-inches. That is why most reputable tire companies won't even touch a car that has spacers on it. Such companies won't usually even remove spacers because the damage may already be done (see Discount Tire's comments: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelFAQ.dos They WILL NOT touch your car if it has spacers on it).
It's even worse for steer axles. Ever heard of scrub radius? You drastically change it when you use N-O wheels or a spacer.
Spacers in and of themselves are not necessarily bad as long as they are manufactured and (more importantly) installed correctly and re-torqued often. Yes RE-TORQUED. Aluminum will creep under load, so it is imperative to re-torque the spacer (i.e. remove the wheels). Vile, have you ever re-torqued a wheel spacer (or new aluminum wheels for that matter)?
When is it OK to use spacers: It is possible to have a spacer (combined with a POSITIVE offset) wheel that yields the same overall geometry that was intended by the vehicle designer. For example: a 30mm offset wheel is effectively identical to a 50mm offset wheel with a 20mm spacer. They have the same total width and will exert the same forces on the hub, and the scrub radius is unaffected.
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The 2" spacers in question...Are we talking the ones that have x number of holes for the axle lug studs with nuts for them & another set of studs for the wheel to go onto (as in, you need twice as many lugnuts as factory)? I have seen these work fairly well, however if we're talking big, long studs with only the original number of lugnuts...NO WAY!
79k has some valid points & I agree in this case, get the correct wheels & be done with it.
My Two Cents, Lorne
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We're talking about the rear axle here obviously! Do I retorque? Nah I just slam em on til the impact gun won't stop turning the nut anymore this way I don't have to ::)
If the hub mating surface is kept clean and the adapters are properly torqued there will be no issues. If you are paranoid about them coming loose use thread locker also.
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Right i am was gonna put them in the rear. the front rims are perfect. just the off set of these rims are different they are really shallow. and the spacers i looked at bolt to the axle then the wheel bolts to the spacer so yes it would be twice as many lugs. But i think i am gonna take the rims off and do away with them anyway, i like the deep dish 10" rims so much better.
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Here's the spacers I have in my garage. These are going on my 75 Blazer
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y228/Sabaka454/spacers.jpg)
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I ran a set of 2 inch spacers between my 36x12.50 duals on my 79 K30. It weighed as much as 9000lbs by itself and I had a combined weight of 27,000lbs once with a 35ft gooseneck and a tractor on the trailer. I've never had a problem with them. They are now on the front of my truck spacing my 35x12.50's to match my rear wide Dana 70HD.
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Hey 79K20....I'm just actually reading what you wrote now..... I really get a kick out of people who try to sound like they know what they are talking about but haven't a clue.
Let me guess, you also install negative offset wheels on them, too, because you like the deep-dish look?
Is this some kind of dig at me? Please post a pic of any of my rides with wheels sticking out of the body with my uber deep dish negative offset wheels ::)
The problem with spacers and uber-negative offset wheels is that they effectively change the moment arm for all of the tire loadings onto the suspension components.
What an intelligent statement.
Its like using a pipe extension on a breaker bar. The applied loads don't change, but the moment that the knuckle/axle/bearing must resist is doubled or more, especially with a spacer as large as 2-inches.
Is that a fact?
That is why most reputable tire companies won't even touch a car that has spacers on it. Such companies won't usually even remove spacers because the damage may already be done (see Discount Tire's comments: http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoWheelFAQ.dos They WILL NOT touch your car if it has spacers on it).
Since when is dicounttiredirect a reputable tire company?
It's even worse for steer axles. Ever heard of scrub radius? You drastically change it when you use N-O wheels or a spacer.
Do you even know what scrub radius is? Do you know what steering axis inclination is? Do you know what the included angle is? Do you really know what scrub radius is? Do you know why engineers factor in these measurements? Have you actually ever done an alignment?
Spacers in and of themselves are not necessarily bad as long as they are manufactured and (more importantly) installed correctly and re-torqued often. Yes RE-TORQUED. Aluminum will creep under load, so it is imperative to re-torque the spacer (i.e. remove the wheels). Vile, have you ever re-torqued a wheel spacer (or new aluminum wheels for that matter)?
Next time you try to insult me why don't you try putting your beer beer down and think before you type.
When is it OK to use spacers: It is possible to have a spacer (combined with a POSITIVE offset) wheel that yields the same overall geometry that was intended by the vehicle designer. For example: a 30mm offset wheel is effectively identical to a 50mm offset wheel with a 20mm spacer. They have the same total width and will exert the same forces on the hub, and the scrub radius is unaffected.
Thanks for the laugh
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um ...... wow! lol go get em tiger lol ;D
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I ran 2in spacers all the way around my 82 ta so my 4th gen offset wheels would fit! Many people use them and they seem to work greatm i never had a problem the lil over a year i ran them. I plan to get some spacers to push my rallys out a little so they match.
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Easy, Killer. No, I was not insulting anyone.
Like I said, I personally have seen them fail, with really bad results (one, in fact, was fatal). Which is why I felt the need to express the concern to this group. Since you obviously have your own opinion, I will not post on this again.
And, by the way, those engineers you mentioned? I'm one of them. I have a BS and MS in Mech. Engineering, and I work on automotive chassis/suspension design for a living. I also worked as a brake/front-end mechanic for almost 10 years before that.
Cheers. Have a great day.
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79K20, opinions are fine. No one is telling you not to have or voice your opinion. Your post did have quite a few things I felt needed my response so I responded.
If you would like I'd be happy to post some more information on front end alignment geometry and how scrub radius is formed.
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So Vile you said "we are talking about the rear axle", is it ok to run a 1/2" spacer on the front axle. And should they be retorqued in the front?
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I would personally have no problem running a 1/2" spacer on the front. Initial torque is what's criticial. Retorquing is a good idea periodically and thread locker would be adviseable. If you're running a 1/2" spacer on the front you'll probably want a rear spacer also since the rear track is so narrow.
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As was asked earlier in the thread, where do you find your wheel spacers? I've looked around, but only found stuff for 4x4's.
I have an '86 C10 1/2 Ton 2WD with 15 x 8 rallies. I want the front to space out about 1/2" to an 1", and the rear to space out 2".
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Spidertraxx make spacers. You have to call them for the Chevy's though: http://www.spidertrax.com
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Thanks.
And sorry if I was out of line with my remark that was removed.