73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: 87OldYeller on November 21, 2009, 07:26:14 pm
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Here is a little history.
I bought this truck back in 2007 It was 2 different colors Primer gray, Red and some Blue. Had the truck painted yellow. I got the engine running at the time it was a throttle body 305. It never ran right so I put a Carburetor on it. It ran great till the transmission went out, had it rebuilt and then about 6 months later the engine started knocking had about 10K miles on it. So fed up with it I sold the engine and transmission out of it and started this project.
Well i finally took my truck off the road and got the tare down started, I removed the front fenders inner and outer, rear fenders, grille etc. Gonna pull the bed box off soon, then the engine and transmission. Also started removing that black tar like gunk off the fire wall. I am gonna toss up some photos.
2009 This is what I started over with.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/VeryNice.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/befor.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/after.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/2.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/1.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/3.jpg)
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looks cool man, take more photos as ya go and keep us posted
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Thanks
Well made a little more progress today, removed the a/c heater box under the hood and pretty much everything in the interior along with the wiring harness almost ready to start sanding.
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sounds awesome. haha you are restoring your truck and i just wish mine looks as good as yours does now (before you restore it) lol
You still gonna pull the engine and trans?
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Hey thanks for the complement. But I am going to dolly it to work got an over head crane going to pull engine and transmission. Cab ect. I am considering having the frame power coated. But that means I have to take it all the way down. But I will keep updates posted. Thanks again.
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look good man whats your plans for it? keep us posted 8)
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I really want to do the 5.3 Swap considering I am taking it down to the frame. I am just tiring to pull together some prices, and locate a wrecked new model truck for sale so I can pull everything so I know it is done right and so I have all I need. But more to come soon.
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here is a list of part i used for my 5.3 conversion
header from summit part# SUM-G908 $153.93 they are shorty headers fit 99-04 truck requires slight mods to PASS side rail , i welded round stock to the underneath of the rail where i modifed it -you can use stock manifolds if you wish but make sure there the non EGR TYPE they will hit the frame where the EGR pipe mounts to on the manifold the header claim 15hp but do sound great
trans-dapt 4572 engine mount adapters $47 seems to put the engine nicely against the firewall with plenty of clearance, they're from summit as well
fuel pump airtex fuel pump E3270 provides plently of PSI $79.99 AutoZone
fuel pump lines, people spend money here for no reason go to a junk yard and get lines from a pickup or tahoe 99 -2003 from the rail to the tank and only modify the part where it
goes into the tank use a 87 - 91 EFI sending unit
make sure you use the EVAP lines if your using the charcoal canister ! im not so i got rid of it and plugged the hole in the intake but tapping it out with 1/2 tap and use a short bolt!
oh if you remove the EGR stuff of a 99-02 engine just remove the the plate that screws to the intake from the flex steel pipe and cap it dont buy one from GM for $30 takes 10 min to mod
top rad hose of a 2001 silverado $17.99
temp switch adapter 1/4 3/8 1/2 about $18.00 S&P
harness mods $212 including the OB11 i used a guy from ebay i was a little worried but it works great oh by the way i dont have A/C but others do i have his email so message me if you want it
ECU mods removing egr , rear O2s ,removing VATS, etc etc etc $75 i have his email too its a different guy
there are a few other mods like i moved the battery to the drivers side make a better fit IMO use a diesel tray there cheap , i used a KN filter out of a 2001 truck i got it for $75 used made a brackets works nice!!!
if your running cats your gonna have to make some mods to the factory 99-04 Y-pipe OR if your not running them you can do what i did i made my own flanges and made the pipe extentions from each header i put the front O2 bungs in each pipe extention and i was good to go!!! i cut my own gaskets from exhaust gasket sheet with the aluminuim works great no leaks
you might have to move your trans crossmember back and mod your drive shaft i cut mine 1 3/4in cost was $55
im using a 91 blazer/burb speedometer takes care of the the 4l60e /4l80e electronic speedo
there a few other things needed but that will certainly get you going !!!
if ive made an error please correct me thanks!!!!
oh PS FLEX FUEL ENGINES I THINK THERE MORE EXPENSIVE TO GO THERE ROUTE
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Hey thanks a lot doesn't look to expensive. no i just have to find an old truck.
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Hey thanks a lot doesn't look to expensive. no i just have to find an old truck.
an old truck?
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99-02 something new but old.. like a wreck i want to get the engine and transmission out to go in this truck.
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oh i understand now yeah i was looking into getting drive by wire but looked like too much of a hassle so i went for drive by cable !!!!!! i think 01 and newer dont have the EGR stuff on them makes it a little easier
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Oh really cool.yea i am going home this week so i am gonna go check what i can find. But i will be off for about a wekk so will update when i get back.
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Found me a set up today. 2002 Chevy Sub. I get the 5.3L engine (that runs) the transmission complete vehicle wiring harness and ECM for $950.00 sounds like a good deal to me. Now just to sell my current 305 and transmission.
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Have a question about Dakota Digital. I am currently working on this project of putting the 5.3L in my 87. Looks like the transmission is gonna be a 4L60. Will my Dakota Digital gauges work with this transmission. I am not at home to look in my books to see what will interchange. I remember reading something on a VSS you could just wire it to the computer for D.D. but any info before I buy these?
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It will work with the tranny, but it doesn't wire the same.
You need LS sensors too.
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LS Sensor ?
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The sensors for the 305 aren't the same as the ones for the LS (5.3L) motor.
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Quick question, As soon as I get home I plan on going the junk yard and start pulling my stuff. I am going to do the wiring harness first. the 5.3 and transmission is coming out of an 2002 Suburban
Do I need any of the interior harness? If I remember isn't the ECM under the hood? I know the OBD2 port is under the dash so I will have to pull it, hopefully it is not much trouble.
Thanks alot.
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Most of the wiring is under the hood and passes through the drivetrain, there is a portion that goes into the dash though that you will most likely not need, but I would get as much as you can if you plan to use the harness.
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OK i will pull it all then.
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So I hope to go get my Engine and Transmission in about a week we start holiday routine Saturday I only have to work 1 day out of ever 5 figgure will be a great time to get strated. But for $1008.00 i get the 5.3L with 108,00 miles 4L80E Complete Wireing and ECM. Would cost me 1500.00 plus tax if they pull it.
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Off to a good start man!
It kinda looks like an old 20's-30's car in this pic...haha
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/1.jpg)
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I went to get the 5.3L and 4l60e only to get there and see it has had the whole front clip removed off the truck, the engine was not covered, no ECM and the wiring harness had been riped and cut, with what looked like parts missing off the engine. attached are some pictures. The guy offered it all to me for $900 out the door but i am afraid it would cost to much to get it running so i am gonna keep looking. But attached are some photos of the work i have gotton done.
Progress i did make.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY0092.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY0088.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY0089.jpg)
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If it was a low mileage 5.3L and a 4L80E and not a 4L60E $900 is good, with a 4L60E still not bad, you can get a harness from Summit for around $500...
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108,00 on mileage on that engine. but i found same deal today might be a 4l60e though but $1500 they pull engine transmission all wiring and ECM for 1500.00 an they will run the engine for me to see. so gonna go get that sounds like a good deal. But hey thanks for the info
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(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY0088.jpg)
Errr... ahem! Really lovin' this thread but is that a foreign-type truck-kinda'-vehicle I'm seeing in the background in some of those pics? That blue one?
On a Chevy Truck forum no less? (I'm shocked :o)
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*L* Yea i picked it up Memorial day last year new. My wife drove it and took it over *L* But she puts up with me so she deserves it. At least the Jeep wasn't in the photo. I was pulling the truck around the yard. *L*
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*L* Yea i picked it up Memorial day last year new. My wife drove it and took it over *L* But she puts up with me so she deserves it. At least the Jeep wasn't in the photo. I was pulling the truck around the yard. *L*
AHH! Of course--- the little wife's rig... Good answer! :D
Be interested to see/hear how that 4L80E setup goes for you; mounting/programming, etc.... lookin' to swap one with my TH400 on a Q-Jetted 350, prolly w/aftermarket computer... one of these days!
Good luck and lookin' forward!
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If he gets the ECM with the 5.3L it already has the control built in.
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Got a little more done today. Getting the fire wall painted before i put in the 5.3
Before
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1101.jpg)
After
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1102.jpg)
Ran out of day light but gonna pick it up tommrow should get the whole fire wall painted.
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Lookin good!
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Hey thanks alot got a little more done..
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1196.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1204.jpg)
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Got a question about emissions for you non-alabama people. When your truck/car is checked for the emission test do they check you emissions by the year of the truck or is there just one flat standard that everything has to meet. Just I am not going to run EVAP on the 5.3 or EGR. should i be concerned about passing emission test, because the truck seems like it would be a lot cleaner than the average 1987 Chevy truck.
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It varies from state to state. I don't know about GA anymore. some states make you go by the engine installed, and some make you go by the body. I've heard of some states going by either the body or engine, whichever is newer.
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looking good
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They are gonna go by the engine, and you can install a newer engine in a older vehicle , but not a older engine in a newer vehicle. so you need the emission stuff for the 5.3. and cats.
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ok thanks yea i was going to run cats and 02 sensors.
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Well I picked up my 5.3L with. 4L60E set up today engine transmission computer and wiring all came out of the same truck. It was parked to have all this removed at 146,000 miles. Picked it up for $1350 out the door all I had to do was back up and they loaded it in my truck. I can’t wait to get back to Mobile and bolt it in... Pictures to come Sunday afternoon
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Looks good, can't wait for the progress pics.
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found it,,,, ;D will keep this swap in check since I am starting on mine today
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Got this home and removed all the wiring plan on bolting it in tommrow.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1209.jpg)
Wiring
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1218.jpg)
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The harness looks uncut. Lucky you! :D
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I know my Brother pulled it out for me i told him not to cut anything.
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truck loooking good.. I have a question. I have never done a v8 swap.. I am a younger and used to be into little 4 cyl. hondas... I know I know!!!!
I am done disconnecting wire, hose etc etc, and I am ready to remove my 305 and 700R4, I have a engine hoist with one of those things to balanced the engine back and forth.. but just a little nervous to pull out the combo,, where would be 4 bolts that can SAFELY hold the wait.. sorry just a little nervous have never pull out something this heavy....(other than my wife out of my truck) ;D :D ;D :D ;D :D oh here she comes >:(
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if you could get exhaust manifold bolts, i have seen people use intake bolts you can if you want them make a bracket to do that with that will fit the curve, I assume you still have the fenders and radiator core support in? and just a tip take a plastic bag or something and wrap up around the transmission rear seal, you will lose fluid when lifting it out.
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thanks that engine leveler, have for chain ends so I was thinking on grabbing it from two bolts on the back from the tranny housing to engine, and two in from from one or two pulleys? ???
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umm might could give it a try. sounds like it might work.
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with my luck the bolt will break and damage my rad. support or a fender.... and that will be my excuse to swap to the 91 front end.. ;D
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It may be tight but you could pull the accessories off and put bolts in all the heads.
OR pull the intake and put longer bolts in all the bolt holes int the 4 corners.
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thanks guys,, I over came my fears and bolt it to some of the acc bolts and one intake bolt, came right out... only thing is I cut the main harness which is like 10 -12 wires and now I am gonna have to figure out where they went...
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have one question... are you going to re use the radiator that you had, and if so, how do you hook up the tranny lines to it,, can you re fit it to the old style threads?
sorry for the questions but I am new to this
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Yes i am going to use the old radiator. actually i am having custom bradded stainless steel lines built for almost everything
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subscribed. i wanna see the results i'm interested. lol
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Great progress. I love the tear-down pics of the truck. Lets me know what's lurking behind my fenders! What kind of paint did you use on the firewall and inner fenders? Rattle can? Pretty glossy.
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yea the old rattle can. you can make that stuff look great with prep work good sanding and a good coat of primer and put on a few coats or high temp engine paint (Gloss black). But i used a sprayer on the can one of the big ones trigger action ones and it controls the spray very nicely.
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thanks oldyeller, I asked, because it looks like you can take off the fittings at the 4l60e for the cooler lines and put the fittings off the 700r4 in to use the old style line, but i was just wonder ::)
nice work, you've been doing
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thanks a a lot. hey let me know how that works out with the 700R4 Lines. Never looked into it but i am going to run the factore 4l60E transmission cooler. So i have to figure all that out. I think i might try to bolt in the engine and transmission tonight. it is late and dark but i have nothing else to do.
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I wound be able to test to see if it works I am having to work for the next 3 or 4 days >:( ..
hey this is the first old truck I have/mod, but when the 5.3 where is the brake booster vaccum line attached to?
by the way,, I didnt have my tranny till today,,, and I got a 2008 4L60E out of a tx state trooper tahoe with 15k miles for 400...plus and extra MAF just incase ;D
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WOW great deal. yea i found some cool parts for this motor, like a MAFS that bolts directly to the throttle body with a polished square cover that says LS1 I got to have it. :)
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Well i dropped in the engine and transmission tonight. Must say with no fenders and core support it is so easy. *L* Here are some pictures.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1220.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1221.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1223.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1227.jpg)
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man that makes me jealous, what motor mount plates did you use? did you installed the eng-tranny together and if so where did you hook the hoist to?
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trans-dapt 4572 engine mount adapters $47 seems to put the engine nicely against the firewall with plenty of clearance, they're from summit as well
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cool man, I was trying to re search a post I read about a adapter someone used and moves the engine forward, that way you can re use the transmission original crossmember and eliminates the need to re do the drive shaf, where are you going to hook the break booster vaccum hose to?
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that i do not know yet.. hrmm good thing to be finding out though. I will post as soon as i know
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There are engine mounts the move the engine forward force you to move the transmission forward. You DO NOT want to do this as you have to build a completely new driveshaft since the old one is too short.
90%+ engine plates mount the LS motor in the same position as the SBC so your transmission location doesn't change.
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thanks captkaos, ..I am 5.3/4l60e combo,, I guess I ll find out when I go for the install
87oldyeller , good progress man,, keep up the good work
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Doesn't matter what the engine/trans is. If your truck didn't have a 700R4 in it, this will cause you to have to get your drive shaft shortened, which is MUCH cheaper than a new one. AND you have to move the crossmember back. If this is on a 82-87 truck the holes are already in the frame, you just have to move it back.
Moving the engine forward may help a little in a TH350 to 4L60 situation, but then your fan shroud is worthless along with the clearance at the front of the motor. Since the 82-87 trucks (which are identicle to 73-81 as far as frame) came with the 4L60(700R4) it makes no sense to move more weight forward in my opinion, and it also just looks wrong when it is mounted.
This is with the forward mounts (which are targeted towards 67-72)
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/drvr_clear1.jpg)
This is with SBC location plates (S&P)
(http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/projects/ad_truck/sandp_plates1.jpg)
I am actually going to move mine back another inch for weight distribution.
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Doesn't matter what the engine/trans is. If your truck didn't have a 700R4 in it, this will cause you to have to get your drive shaft shortened, which is MUCH cheaper than a new one. AND you have to move the crossmember back. If this is on a 82-87 truck the holes are already in the frame, you just have to move it back.
so a driveshaft out of one with the 700R4 would fit in with out having to be shortened? It is from a 84 chevy SWB truck
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If the transmission doesn't move, yes.
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what am I doing Wrong. got the engine brackets bolted up the way it look like it should. But the 4L60E will not bolt up to the cross member. I tried moving it back but in order for all the OEM Pre-Drilled holes in the frame to line up the transmission corss-member is to far back for the transmission to bolt in. i got a few pictures here. can anyone who has knowledge of this swap tell me what i am doing wrong? I think i have the engine bracket right maybe i do not?
engine bracket
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1230.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1231.jpg)
with tansmission cross member in rear most place where bolt hole line up.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1232.jpg)
Any Help?
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Move it back towards the pan. From the picture it looks like you need to put it back where it came from. Did it have a 700R4 before the swap?
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turbo 350 but the transmission mount had been modified to be longer so i am not sure.
thanks
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Move it back to wards the pan. From the picture it looks like you need to put it back where it came from. Did it have a 700R4 before the swap?
Hey thanks a lot. I swear i tried it. Cause i wanted to see if it would fit before i moved anything. but is is all bolted in now. I wound not having to move it it is in the foreward most position.
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Here is some of what I got done today
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1233.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1234.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1235.jpg)
doesn’t look like much but removed all the old fuel lines, cleaned the frame some, bolted in the core support, got everything lined up and bolted in. Now just to wait on my wiring harness and computer.
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nice progress. man., on the 1st. pic with the mount adapters ,, is that the pass on driver side?,,if its the pass driver's I think you may have the plates in the opposite side,what i mean is the 3 bolts for the clam shell are towards the front of the engine I dont know if I am making any sense see here http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=382298 so you know what I mean..post 4 you can see plate mounted on the driver side.. are you going to run a/c? that link also shows that the plates are on the way and it shows how to modify them. thats on a 86 swap
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Yes that is the passenger side.. I checked that link that is how I got mine done. But I wonder about the clam shell mount. can you put the right on the left and left on right? is there a difference? everything lines up as far as transmission mount and all.. I did not think they looked right but I am not sure. I looked t all the pictures in that link and it looks the same as mine. The instruction are not very instructive. I got them on the way it shows with the point of the mount facing the front of the engine but thanks for the tip I am going to check it out some more. To me anyway never hurts to have an extra set of eyes. But yes I am going to run A/C but I am getting all new Brackets will move the a/c compressor to the top and alternator up and over to the side more and will bring the P/S Pump up as well but it will be hidden.
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I do not know anything about this so this is what I need to know.
I got the transmission n all bolted in right. I did not have to move the cross member, it is all the way forward, here are some pictures of the drive shaft in the pictures I have it bolted into the yolk in the rear end. By judging how much is at the transmission do I need to have the drive shaft cut and shortened or does it look to yall like it will be fine? To me it looks like it would be ok but I do not remember how far it was in the old transmission.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1241.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1240.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1239.jpg)
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You need about 1/2"-3/4" of slack for in/out movement. Is it bottomed out with it in that position?
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from the what i can see in the pic,, the marks seems like you can almost see the marks to where it used to go into the old transm?.. reason why I was asking about the a/c is because on that link I gave you they show how to modify the mount stand so you can use the compressor in the original position with out notching the frame...
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You need about 1/2"-3/4" of slack for in/out movement. Is it bottomed out with it in that position?
I dont know the transmission has some dirt on the inside of the seal from where they were pulling it they let the tail shaft hit the ground i am going to put in a new seal and try to clean it before i put the shaft in the transmission.
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your making good progress.. I my mount adapters should be here wed. and I am just about to finish on the harness.. so once I get the plates I am gonna start putting everything back on mine...
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any updates? ???
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No sorry nothing acutally took some steps back, I am in the middle of moving to a new house so i have to bolt the bed back on and rear fenders just so it can be moved then i have to pull them back off so i can use that Por-15 on frame. Hope to move it to the shop tommrow and then I will be able to get a lot of work done to it. But we will see.
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congrats on the new house... thats not a step back,, its just a little bump in the road :D.. I took my engine off and put the new 5.3/4l60e in.. was going to put a cam in it.. but decided I was going to wait untill I have it running and fix all the little things that might come, will start my own build thread soon...
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well you should would like to see some pictures.. But yea i moved it tonight up to the shop where i can work on it in the afternoon will be nice to have a/c and or heat in the shop, hard dry floors and all the tools and work space i need. But as soon as i get back from Tn. I will have the harness done and computer done as well hope to start it shortly after getting back.
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looking great !!!!
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Got my truck into the shop so i can work on it regardless of weather conditions. here are some very short updates most of the work that has been done is painting.
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1244.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1246.jpg)
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wow thats a nice shop you have there, i take it that it came with the new house? should take a few more pics of the shop give us a tour of the place keep up the good work tho 8)
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acutally i did not.. *L* I am a mechanic in the U.S. Coast Guard that is one of our shop i have 24 hr access to with air over head crane heat/ a/c nice bathroom.. I could live here if i did not have a wife. :) but i will post more i got a bit more work done to the truck.
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But i got my front driver fender bolted on and rad core support. Got the other inner fender well painted today going to paint the inside of the actually fender and bolt them on throw on the hood.. and wait *L*
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acutally i did not.. *L* I am a mechanic in the U.S. Coast Guard that is one of our shop i have 24 hr access to with air over head crane heat/ a/c nice bathroom.. I could live here if i did not have a wife. :) but i will post more i got a bit more work done to the truck.
move the wife into the shop and problem solve... ;D
good to see you are back at it
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Lucky to have the keys! I want to go back to the days when I had keys to my shop. Salesman during hours ( i could have been the installer, but the commission was oh so good), workn on my truck after 5!
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Got some more done today at lunch and tonight. here are some updates. I just cant Wait till next week so i can order all my parts
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1256.jpg)
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1254.jpg)
It looks like a truck again *L*
(http://i677.photobucket.com/albums/vv131/87OldYeller/SANY1259.jpg)
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Well I'm fairly jealous - what a nice shop!!
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Great progress. How did you find the process of reinstalling the fenders and core support and getting things to line up?
Oh and since you just did it, how many bolts hold the fender on and are any hard to get to?
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There are approximately
8 fender to core support bolts
8 inner fender to fender bolts
3 inner fender to core support bolts
2 inner fender to cab bolts
3 fender to cab bolts
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was not to hard getting them back on. I got them semi stright i am not to worried about it right now cause it is going to the shop to be painted soon. But it was not to bad i just am replacing all bolts with Stainless Steel.
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Thanks guys I appreciate it. I might just invest in a ton of 1/2" washers to provide some adjustements as needed lol
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good progress man... you need to hurry or I might just finish b4 you ;D ,, I know its not a race but just trying to get you to work,,,lol
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Well i am having to leave and go to Tn. for 3 weeks so.. that is 3 weeks i will not be able to touch my truck
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I am making some good progress of my own,.. I have engine and tranny install ,, slightly move my transm.. cross member , re installed my drive shaft, , finish my engine harness, with small fuse box, and my pcm should be back tuesday, I have all the lines and fittings for my fuel system,, but I am yet to order the fuel pump,,
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Well i am having to leave and go to Tn. for 3 weeks so.. that is 3 weeks i will not be able to touch my truck
that stinks!!!
where are you getting the stainless bolts? do they make a kit for our trucks? I am still researching my 6.0 swap. i have the engine and few other parts. :)
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Totally Stainless makes a kit for out trucks, It is mostly the cab forward.
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oh cool i might have to check them out.. i just been getting the bolts from work. we have a huge surplus was oked to use any i want.
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I have not given up.. Just still in Knoxville Tn. got 2 more weeks till I got back home, But I did get the wiring harness off to be rebuilt, the computer is having codes deleted out, I ordered my fuel pump and Aeroquip fuel line connectors, having all Braided Stainless Steel fuel line made.
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Well I hope to be back home in a week or so but here is a list of what I picked up.
All of This came from AutoZone.
1) New Thermostat with housing P# 37987
2) Rear Seal for the Transmission P# 9613S
3) Gatorback Belt P#4060930
4) Fuel Filter P# FF3504
5) Map Sensor (Mine got broken) P# SU1078
6) New Exhaust Manifold Gaskets P# MS 92467
7) Flange gaskets P#’s 61089 61074
8 ) Radiator Hose Clamps P# KE28SS
9) Idler Pulley P# 231081
10) Radiator Hose P# XL 1215
11) Cold Air Intake P# 9900
12) Throttle Body Base Gasket P#61070
13) All 4 Bosch 02 Sensors P#’s 13026 13474
14) Idler Arm P# FA1379
15) Pitman Arm P# FA918
16) Inner Tie rod ends P#’s ES409R
17) Outer Tie rod ends P#’s ES409L
18) Tie Rod Adjusting sleeve P#’s ES2004S
19) A/C Evaporator core P# 6275N
Also purchased some from Rock Auto they have the same parts as local part house but a lot less money and fast shipping.
1) A/C Receiver Drier/ Accumulator P# 33183
2) A/C Refrigerant Hose P# 1955515
3) A/C Condenser P# 2083
Also ordered A/C adapters
docsblocks.com, PN AA2209($15) and AA2210($20)
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Looks like a great job.
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thanks i can not wait to get back home to work on it.. *L*
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nice list of goodies lol...
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Got a little done today got the computer in and the wiring all hooked up the manifolds i have fit perfect they were the stock ones from the 02 Suburban and they clear the frame fine. I just have a few issues to work out with the wiring and i should be all set.
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Having a problem getting power into my cab. I still have not gotten every thing hooked up but I can not seem to get power in. If I remember correct, correct me if I am wrong didn’t the power come from the starter or was there a hot wire leading directly to the fuse block?
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Power from the battery goes to the starter.
a power wire comes up from the starter to a junction on the firewall (the diamond shaped thing bolted to the firewall) from there it goes to the fuse box.
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OK thanks i was thinking something like that. I tryed to hook thos wires (the ones that went to the starter) to the battey to get power inside the cab and i did not get anything Is that diamond block required or can I by pass it?
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here is the wiring diagram: http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/wiring_diagrams/81-87_V8_engine.jpg
So you hooked the wire going to the starter to the battery? Which one, the power side or the switched side?
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Thanks Capt. I got that problem worked out I wasent thinking but I did not have the battery hooked to the frame, I was taking the battery under the truck with me trying to jump the starter just to get it to turn.
But the only other problem I have is I have power going into the cab, But I cant seem to get power out on the start wire. The one that engages the solenoid when the key is in the start position. I believe it is the Purple wire that is what it looked like from the wiring diagram you put up. And thanks for that. But when I rotate the key all the way forward I do not get power to the solenoid. Fuses are good, grounds are hooked up in cab and truck is in park truck is in park. Any Ideas? Everything worked great before the swap.
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Sounds like the neutral safety switch.
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yeller I havent come to check your updates for a little while.. above you mention you had a problem getting power to the cab and now you have a problem getting the power to the purple wire... how many power wires you have going INTO the cab?there is more then one needed. ,I think one is for the accesories and the other for the started selonoid? also check for power on the purple wire, right when it comes out of the cab by under the brake booster,, maybe the wire got damaged somewhere? good luck...
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In a hurry I did not hook up the ignition switch. Due to it being on top of the steering Colum I didn’t see it. But after I hooked it up all is good. Got the wires hooked up and she busted right off. Still will not run for more than about 2 seconds though the alternator is bad, But toss another one on there and it should be all good. But it is good to hear it run
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Question:
i have bolted the drive shaft in , it only goes 1 3/4 inches on the tail shaft. the transmission is not completely bolted down so it will drop maybe another 1/4 of and inch with all tight... is that enough yoke on the tailsaft? or should it stick in futher?
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good to hear you got it turn in... as for the driveshaft, I dont know how much it goes in, but once i drop the tranny down, it looked like it when into the trans, just as much as it was with the original trans, by seeing the "wear marks" on the yoke...
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Well no progress made over the past few months the Coast Guard has had me bouncing all over the map. But I am back in Tn. another 2 weeks and I can get back home and work on my truck some. I did get another computer for it as that seems to be why it will not stay running. Truck will fire run about 5-8 seconds and stumbles and falls if you try to accelerate it wants to stay alive but dies. I got the OBD2 port hooked up and it is reading codes for the drive by wire set up so I guess it was not properly deleted. The new computer is OEM for DBC, just have to get it tuned and maybe that will fix my problems.
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Anyone that has done this swap. What did you do to connect the OEM for the truck shift linkage to the transmission. 4L60E
Well I am still on the road right back in Tn. been here for a month and I leave here on 11May2010 and go some where on the gulf coast to watch the oil... So I have done nothing with my truck.
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Did you try bolting the u bracket from your old tranny to the 4l60e.
It shoud fit on the shift rod.
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naw i dident I let the old tranny got with the motor but i have another one i can get the linkage from.. thanks
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I am needing a little help. I finally got back to working on my truck. I got it running, It will fire up run but will not Idele, as long as you stay in the throttle it will run. Here is the kicker, had no exhaust to speak of just down pipes. Will this engine run with out cats? I have OEM cats that were on it I just don't want to use them unless i have to. There are no emission laws here so no worries about that. I am gonna have full exhaust put on with maybe just some flowmaster 40's.
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Check the choke, check for vacuum leaks, set the timing.
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ok .. timing should be ok i think we were driving the truck on a daily basis before we pulled the engine. I will check for leaks in vacume. what is there to the choke on the LS1
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Is this the LS motor that is EFI?
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yea.. fuly stock 2002 5.3L nothing have changed on or in the engine. But i got the cas fitted and attached today runs much much better guess the back pressure wasent just right. But now just moving on got to find a throttle cable that will work.
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Lokar makes a univeral that alot of people have been using.
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What would be some good mufflers on this 5.3L Flowmaster 40 series? r anyone have a better suggestion? going for deep rumble, I don't like loud popping.
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I like Magnaflows.
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I've got dual exhaust on mine with the Flowmaster 40 series on them and I LOVE it!! With that said, they rumble really nicely at idle, cruising and moderate take offs but in the event you stomp on the go pedal they do tend to pop and crackle at those higher RPMS.
As Capt said, Magnaflows are also a good option and I've heard have less tendency for this so these may be a better option for you.
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i vote magnaflow thats my favorite muffler for a ls based vehicle. i run a single 3in exhaust on my 03 yukon with a 14in case magnaflow with dual 2 1/2 out exiting on the pass side and for now still running stock manifolds and cats its nice and mellow on the hwy and quiet at idle and a monster at wide open throttle. ill be running the same muffler on my 86 trans am when i finish my swap in it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_JtuY6dr6o
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Finally back home with all these oil spill going on I have not had much time for the Chevy but I got a bit done this weekend, made a video of it running but the video did not turn out so well. But I am about to order my fans, what CFM would be good on this 5.3L and single or dual fans?
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Not sure on cfm, but I would go dual in case one fails. Check with flex a lite and see what cfm they run on their kit for the 99+ trucks.
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THE CHEVY LIVES!!!!!!!! :) Finally got some time at home to work on the truck. Took it to the shop yesterday, had Down pipes and cat's welded in place, hooked up everything and she busted right off ran ruff for a time or two then she cleaned up and ran smooth Idles really nice. Video to come ASAP.
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what did you do for the exhaust? :) and congrats i cant wait to fire my swap in my fbody!
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down pipes front 02 sensors and catalytic converter.
Just enough to get it to run so I can move it in and out of shop, it is loud but going to toss on some mufflers ASAP I just have to figure out what I want on it. I have to try to find a throttle cable and something for an intake.
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Throttle cable? Just use a piece of string...
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Lokar has a cable that you can use.
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Throttle cable? Just use a piece of string...
*L* well right now i have about 10 zip ties hooked together but that wont work going down the road..
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Lokar has a cable that you can use.
Yea I looked there.. What Size you think i would need?
Right now got a few issues to work out, I am not getting water circulating though the engine, I might not of gotton it hot enough gonna take a look tomorrow
and from half throttle or more if you completely let off the throttle the engine will drop rpm's but will not stop at idle just keeps dropping till it dies.
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Could be the tune!?
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thanks if it need it though prolly just go grab one, i am in and out so kinda got to do what i can when i am at home. but yea I am going to get my intake set up done possible put in a cam. and go have a dyno tune..
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I know what you mean life is busy these days. I swaped a ls1 intake and accesorys on my 5.3. What are your plans for the truck in the long run? A good cam a lot of the guys on the truck forums use is the tr220 seems to lay down 330whp range.
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Truck runs ok I just need some help from the folks here.. The exhaust on the truck is down pipe with 02 sensors and catalytic converters installed but stops there. But truck will Idle great, in neutral if you give it throttle it sounds good but if you get it ½ throttle or much over idle and completely let off the throttle the truck will die but if you come down slow it will idle, put it in drive it will pull off like normal same deal with throttle if you apply enough throttle as to pull off at a decent speed it bogs bad let off it will go back to idle.. sometimes die. Attempt to try burn out it bogs bad and will die. The fuel pump is new the one I used was recommended by other members who have done the swap.
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Could be in the tune! My friend jeff has a h/c/i spray 02 z28 and his would do sorta the same thing when reved hard and let off and it would die or let off the gas at a light it would die it surged very bad but it was all in the tune. Who did your tuning?
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I sent it off with wiring harness.. but i am going to have it re tuned here in town
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Most have been using 36", but you could use the cable from the donor.
Just call GM and asked for the cable that came out of the donor you had.
have you checked your fuel pressure?
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no but i changed the throttle body and it made a huge difference. now it just is kinda high at idle, but i think the idle air control valve is bad looks like it might of been bent some. Got to figure out how to hook up the OBD2 Port i believe the orange is the ign hot wire, there are two black weirs i guess there ground? matter where they ground to truck or battery? and the purple wire is the wire for the OBD2 wire coming out of the harness. I just cant get the OBD2 code reader to read anything. ign on and both black wires tied together and hooked to good ground.
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OK got the OBD2 port hooked up and working right. The code it is showing comes up to PO1022. I changed the TPS didn't help. Truck Idles great. but if you try to get into it it still bogs. this engine and computer was DBW now is DBC. the exhaust is down pipes and cats. stops right next to the transmission, could it be lack of back pressure or loss of when u throttle up fast.
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I wouldn't think that would be it. What kind of shape are your o2 sensors in?
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brand new.. and fuel pressure is good.
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Hum....
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What is TCC? I put a 2002 5.3 into my 87 Chevy Truck. Was having issues with it bogging bad at acceleration. I hooked up the wire for TCC to constant hot and now everything works fine got all the power in the world, does great. So does this lock up the torque converter? Will it hurt for the torque converter to stay locked up all the time while doing daily driving?
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I know on my 86 ta when I still had a 700r4 I wired mine to a switch and could control the lockup manualy and I had a friend that has his powerstroke ford like that but he does truck pulls with it.
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Well here it is... Finally...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtBomrfHxCY
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Sounds good! What are your plans for the exhaust?
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Well as much as it hurts to sell this truck.. I just do not have time for it anymore.. Thanks to all the people who has helped with question. truck runs great been driving it but am not going to be able to finish it out.. Hope the new owner join's up here so i can see it get completed.
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Hate to hear that man. :(
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Real sorry to hear that, it sucks to put that much work into something and not be able to keep it..
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So did the truck sell or is she still kickin around?
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It is sold... guy showed up with the 2500 dollars.. dident even want to drive it heard it run and threw down 100 dollar bills.
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Wow what a steal! If you woulda been close I woulda picked it up for sure! Ever hear anything outa the guy on if he finished it?
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Nope have not heard anything.. but i hope he did something wit it.. no aftermarket metal, no rust, do dents.. ran drove just needed some small stuff..
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Well I have not been here in a lone time.. I stopped by hoping I would see a post up about my old truck.. I left the 73-87chey truck sticker on the rear window.. Guess not..
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Nothing yet...