73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: 78 Chevyrado on January 16, 2010, 04:28:56 pm
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I noticed that even though the frame was found to be straight, the truck still had a bit of lean to it from straight behind. I thought maybe I had a saggy spring, but it wasn't sagging before it got wrecked. so i was under there looking and it looks to me like one of the axle tubes is bent. Check out the pic, I put a straight edge on my computer screen and it's way off. When it got hit for a while the only wheel on the ground was that one, so it had to have taken a good bit of force.
I noticed it driving up from behind the truck in the car, it didn't look right.
Am I wrong? Looks to me like I need a new Axle assembly, or is there anyplace that straightens those things?
(http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t195/wes2880/Parts%20n%20Pieces/MaybeBentAxle.jpg)
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I would say the left one definetely appears bent. Im no expert though.....
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Regular thing to check them and replace axle tubes in race shops. I have seen them straightened but once bent they usually replace them.
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I would say the left one definetely appears bent. Im no expert though.....
I agree.
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It does look bent in the pic but it could be an illusion too. Take a piece of string from left to right in the same spot and measure off the string. If it's bent I would just grab a used one.
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Kenny, The best, surest way to know is to get a 4 wheel alignment. The print out will show you toe, camber & thrust angle of the rear axle. Lorne
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I wouldn't waste $ on an alignment if you can tell right off the bat with a simple measurement. If it is bent an alignment will just show that you have set back and you'll have to pay for an alignment twice. The lignment won't reveal what parts are damaged either.
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Vile, While I agree a string used correctly doesn't lie. I was thinking a little more into it. He mentioned "the frame was found to be straight" & "it wasn't sagging before the accident". If there is an Third party paying (insurance company maybe?) they are most likely going to want some "proof" that something is wrong before they pay. To me, it is golden to have specs show "Yes, this is bent...See here in Red?" Before you start talking. To me, it would be will worth the $50, If it's a matter of him paying for the whole repairs, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on possably a mis-diagnosed un-needed item.
If it is bent an alignment will just show that you have set back and you'll have to pay for an alignment twice. The lignment won't reveal what parts are damaged either.
I ask you to think about that a little more...If the Left wheel spec shows, say -.9 toe & the Right side shows .01, the axle housing is bent back on the Left. Now if the Left is -.9 & the Right is .9...Now we're dealing with a thrust angle problem...the frame is diamond, spring, hanger, ect. problem & not the axle housing.
If the Left wheel shows very much camber at all, the housing is bent.
All of this ASSUMES that a reading is again taken with the axle shaft rotated 180* after the initial readings to verify. Following me?
Can it be found with a level, square & a string? Yes it can if you know what your trying to accomplish & how to go about it. My Two Cents worth, Lorne
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I'll go a bit more into the frame being straight. No there was no third party paying for it. I did get money from insurance, but I put in more myself to go ahead and repaint it with new interior and all trim items.
When I took the truck up to begin with after the wreck, the frame wasn't quite straight, turnes out to be a combination of the bent fender pulling the core support back and down 1" both directions, and also a couple of the cab-mounting bolts were bent. I was up there when they pulled the fender and cut the bad cab bolts, and when they removed both of them you could see the truck settle a bit from the tension on it. They took all kinds of measurments and found the frame to be ok with the tension removed. The only thing they had to pull on, was the front right lower cab corner to get it back out so they could put the new front half of the rocker panel on.
That axle did get a good bit of stress in the wreck. It dang near turned the truck over, and for a bit only the rear right wheel was on the ground. If it had caught on anything when it slid it would have turned over. couldn't see nothing but sky out the passenger side window. So I'm thinking it must have bent then. I really couldn't tell anything before the body shop, cus the front was real crooked and the cab setting cocked on the frame. I think I probably just missed it in the excitement of all the other stuff I got to do to the truck. If it is bad, it'll be the only thing so far that got missed, so I can definately handle that.
As far as who will pay for it, it'll be me. It's been too long and it's really not too bad costwise. (since I did get so much done to the truck ;D )
I usually back in when I park so when I drive in in the car, it looked ok from the front. One day I parked in there front first and when I drove up in the car, the left tire looked leaned in at the top compared to the right tire. Well after a couple of days it got to bugging me so I checked it as best I could. I havent Jacked it up to measure the width on 3 sides of the tire yet though (3 oclock, 6 oclock, 9 oclock). That's next. I didn't get out there today, had to go look at houses.
I'm wondering about the string thing, I've tried to do that, but either the shock mounts or the pumpkin get in the way. No matter how I've eye balled it though, it does look crooked, even from the front, under the engine. Look at the u-bolts too, They are 90* to the axle tube.
I follow you lorne, about getting the alignment check. Actually I think alignment checks are free at kauffman so that's shouldn't be a big deal. It costs to adjust it but not to check it. I'm wondering why to rotate the axle shaft 180* If it is the axle housing tube, what will that do? Wouldnt that show a bent axle shaft on a semi floater? I'll see about getting it checked out. I should have all the stock specs in my manual. I'll hunt em up.
Thanks for the good relies fellas!
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How hard is it to replace axle tubes? Is it the same for a 10bolt?
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Just thought of this- and correct me if I'm wrong- How does the wear pattern look on the questionable tire?
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Just thought of this- and correct me if I'm wrong- How does the wear pattern look on the questionable tire?
The tires are too new to tell, and i did'nt think to check the old tires. The new ones only have about 1500 miles on em and they have been rotated once since then cuz the tires guys didn't get em balance right.
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How hard is it to replace axle tubes? Is it the same for a 10bolt?
I'd think it would be cost effective to just buy a new rear end. i think I bought a 10 bolt once for $75 at a local salvage yard.
Though I'd like to do that on mine or straighten it since it's all in EXCELLENT shape.
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Haulin-it I definitely agree with you on checking alignment angles but... I have a state of the art Hunter system and I know how to use it very well. Unfortunately I find that 85% of the shops out there have the dumbest of the dummies working their aligners and live by the whole set the toe and let it go philosiphy. If it was an insurance job I'd agree get an alignment from a reputable alignment shop but once again if you're bent you're bent and it's kinda pointless. If his total toe is incorrect in the rear it would indicate a bent axle tube as if it was in the hub or wheel it would have excessive runout. Camber would also point this out however if he has set back or a bent hanger, damaged main leaf etc this won't be evident until he puts a straight axle back in there (that's what I meant by my earlier statement regarding the alignment not telling him what parts are bent) Just replace it with a used unit then get an alignment.
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I just had a thought. I think tomorrow I'll go out there and put the angle locator on each axle tube. they won't be level, but as long as they show the same angle, everything is fine? Sound like a good idea?
This is what I have:
(http://www.sadoun.com/Sat/Products/Accessories/Meters/Johnson_small.jpg)
I hadn't thought about the spring, Vile. Whats a good way to check them to see if they are even? Jack it up by the frame until the suspension is hanging and measure fron the axle mounts to the bed floor or a frame reference? Or do I have to have the axle unbolted from it, or will this do anything at all?
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How hard is it to replace axle tubes? Is it the same for a 10bolt?
Not a do it the driveway job. I would just replace the whole rear end if it is bent.
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My best suggestion is if the axle is bent replace it and then have an alignment done. If anything else is bent you'll know at that point for sure.
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I was asking about replacing axle tubes because I was needing my assembly narrowed, but nobody in my area does stuff like that. And I can't seem to get any recommendations in the San Antonio area either. I just figured I could go to the college automotive shop and help them to do it for me.
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Man this hasn't been a good week aparrently. I keep missing stuff. >:(
I got under there today and with the angle locator I found the axle to have 1-2 degrees difference between the axle tubes.
I also noticed the left spring is actually twisted, So there's at least no question I need a pair of springs. The direction it twisted is consistent with how the axle looks so maybe thats it.
I'll get some springs as soon as i can, and then take another look at the axle afterwards.
Any thoughts on who has the best quality stock replacement springs?
I found these
http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_37_47_51_67_71&products_id=91&osCsid=2illc3bvmo01q4hc99bn5ll4n0 (http://thesuspensionking.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_37_47_51_67_71&products_id=91&osCsid=2illc3bvmo01q4hc99bn5ll4n0)
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7352 (http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7352)
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Find a local spring shop and get them from there. They'll have U-bolts and center pins in stock. Then you don't have to pay shipping either.
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Find a local spring shop and get them from there. They'll have U-bolts and center pins in stock. Then you don't have to pay shipping either.
I can't find any above Atlanta. You know this irritates me when stuff just isn't around or they don't advertise. There's nowhere around here that does rear ends either Except for 1 ford specializing place. Any of you guys know of any places that sell leaf springs between Atlanta and Athens?
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I found these guys with a quick Google search:
Doraville Drive Lines & Springs
6910 Buford Hwy NE, Doraville, GA 30340-1410
(770) 441-2501
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I found these guys with a quick Google search:
Doraville Drive Lines & Springs
6910 Buford Hwy NE, Doraville, GA 30340-1410
(770) 441-2501
Ahhh I think I've heard of them. What keywords did you use? If I put in "leaf springs" I get stuff about yard work and stuff about drop coil springs.
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Yellow Pages
Doraville Drive Lines & Springs
Phone: (770) 441-2501
TruckPro
Serving Atlanta, GA
(866) 660-7490
Big Moe Spring & Alignment of Atlanta
7190 Delta Cir
Austell, GA
(770) 948-7443
Mccullough Auto Care & Towing
5810 Roswell Rd NE
Atlanta, GA
(404) 252-3014
Discount Hitch & Truck Accessories
Lowest Prices Guaranteed!
Serving Atlanta, GA
(800) 841-4661
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Oops didn't see page 2...
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What keywords did you use? If I put in "leaf springs" I get stuff about yard work and stuff about drop coil springs.
"Spring shops atlanta, GA"
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Dang... told ya I been missing stuff this week! i feel like an idiot. :-\ Oh well now I can get to figuring out how to play it off... ;D
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I'm wondering why to rotate the axle shaft 180* If it is the axle housing tube, what will that do? Wouldnt that show a bent axle shaft on a semi floater?
The reason for this is to rule out a bent axleshaft (or wheel) from altering the specs found...It will separate that from the housing being bent. If the housing is bent like it appears to be in the picture, you will have negative camber on the Left (top of the wheel inward). If this is the case & only the housing is bent, the spec will not change regardless of what position the axle flange is in (the wheel bearing holds the axleshaft still, but it is tilted slightly so the spec is allways the same, likely in this case...negative camber).
Now if the flange on the axleshaft only is bent, depending on how it is positioned the moment the reading are taken...It would change from neg. camber to toe-in, to pos. camber, to toe-out as it was rotated around...less than .010 run-out is preferred, but a LITTLE more won't hurt anything, but this amount will not show up doing an alignment. We're looking for larger amounts here.
If both the housing & the shaft are bent (depending on the amount of the combination) you could see the shaft "cover up" the bent housing, an example would be: The housing is bent & has a 1/2* of neg. camber, & let's say the axleshaft is also bent about the same...If the "bent-in" spot would be down while the alignment was checked, the Two would negate each other & show ok, but if the axle was rotated 180*, the spec would be near a full degree neg. camber. Understand?
On a side note, Do you see any oil seepage from the Left tube where it is pressed into the cast center section? Looking at the pic, it seems that it starts right at the cast/tube area. Quite often oil will seep through there when things have moved, especially if it's been driven some since being bent. Hope this helps! Lorne
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I'm wondering why to rotate the axle shaft 180* If it is the axle housing tube, what will that do? Wouldnt that show a bent axle shaft on a semi floater?
The reason for this is to rule out a bent axleshaft (or wheel) from altering the specs found...It will separate that from the housing being bent. If the housing is bent like it appears to be in the picture, you will have negative camber on the Left (top of the wheel inward). If this is the case & only the housing is bent, the spec will not change regardless of what position the axle flange is in (the wheel bearing holds the axleshaft still, but it is tilted slightly so the spec is allways the same, likely in this case...negative camber).
Now if the flange on the axleshaft only is bent, depending on how it is positioned the moment the reading are taken...It would change from neg. camber to toe-in, to pos. camber, to toe-out as it was rotated around...less than .010 run-out is preferred, but a LITTLE more won't hurt anything, but this amount will not show up doing an alignment. We're looking for larger amounts here.
If both the housing & the shaft are bent (depending on the amount of the combination) you could see the shaft "cover up" the bent housing, an example would be: The housing is bent & has a 1/2* of neg. camber, & let's say the axleshaft is also bent about the same...If the "bent-in" spot would be down while the alignment was checked, the Two would negate each other & show ok, but if the axle was rotated 180*, the spec would be near a full degree neg. camber. Understand?
On a side note, Do you see any oil seepage from the Left tube where it is pressed into the cast center section? Looking at the pic, it seems that it starts right at the cast/tube area. Quite often oil will seep through there when things have moved, especially if it's been driven some since being bent. Hope this helps! Lorne
That does help, Thank you Lorne! Bent axles and springs is just something I haven't had to mess with before. I've had plenty of sagging springs, and stuff broken inside the axle, just not bent up stuff. :)
There's no seepage fron where the tube presses in the center section. But I had noticed, since then that I always have a small leak from the seal on the inner hub that wasn't there before the wreck. Now It leaks (not enough to trace it, but enough to screw up brake shoes) some gear oil out into the brake shoe area. It takes about 6 months to be noticable on the brake shoes. I know it's not brake fluid, it's all dry under the cylinder seals. I wonder if it could have bent outboard of the spring and tweaked the tube? I know for a fact where the seal rides is perfect. no worn spot from the seal and no roughness anywhere on it. They said they checked the wheels when they put new tires on (I had to leave it there and pick it up later) but you know how that goes. I kinda worry about having steel wheels just because I havent had a set of steel wheels yet that were as round and true as machined aluminum wheels. either that or I bent em taking a curve too fast. lol
My little degree finder said the tubes are different by one degree, inboard and right next to the spring perches . I think I should try again to measure on the flange the backing plate attaches too also so I can see if it may be bent outboard of the springs. I may have to wait a bit till I get the springs, cuz now I noticed the twisted spring, it's all I can see now and everything looks all screwy now.