73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: Stewart G Griffin on February 27, 2010, 02:20:47 pm
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So, What's the best battery available these days?
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I like optima my self
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I think it's a personal preference thing, I buy Diehard's.
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So, What's the best battery available these days?
For what?
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cars
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PT.2:
Which company makes which brand(s) and where is each battery made?
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Stewart, there are many different types of Automotive batteries. Most people purchase a battery based on price and warranty. I always recommend a national brand in which you can get warranteed if you are out of town should it fail.
Here's some info for you I pulled from one of my theory lessons...
The 3 main functions of an automotive battery are to:
Act as a voltage stabilizer for the entire vehicle`s electrical system
Provides current whenever the vehicle`s electrical system exceeds the output of the charging system
Provides current for starting, lighting & ignition
The battery must be able to maintain a good charge when the engine is off.
With the engine is off, electrical power is still needed to maintain the memory in the various vehicle computers & clocks (parasitic loads).
A typical battery is a starting battery and its primary purpose is to provide a short powerful burst of power.
Deep cycle batteries are designed to handle constant discharging and charging (cycling). They are used in fuel cell and recreational vehicles .
Most automobiles are based on 12 volt systems incorporating a 12 volt battery.Twelve volt systems are barely meeting the demands of the electrical loads being encountered in today's vehicles.
Future plans are for 42 volt systems incorporating a 36 volt battery to accommodate for of the increased electrical loads (computers, etc:) in today`s vehicles.
Battery Designs
The most common batteries are of the lead-acid design. Wet cell, gel cell and absorbed glass mat are all lead-acid designs.
Designs under development are advanced lead-acid, nickel-metal hydride(NiMH) and lithium polymer.
Electric vehicles which need 200 –300 volts to operate would incorporate many 12 volt batteries connected in series. This battery will be huge as it would need to contain approximately 20 twelve volt batteries.
A battery consists of grids, positive plates, negative plates, separators, elements, electrolyte, a case(container), cell covers, vent plugs, and cell containers
The grids form the lead alloy framework of the battery plates.
Grids support the active material of a plate and conduct current.
Plates are flat, rectangular components that are either positive(lead peroxide/ PbO2/dark brown) or negative(sponge lead/Pb/ gray).
An element is a group of positive and negative plates.
A plate group is a number of plates of the same polarity(+ or -) which are welded to a lead alloy post & plate strap.
Plates are alternated + and negative.Located between each + and – plate is a separator
When the element is placed in the battery case & immersed in electrolyte it becomes a cell.
The lead peroxide and sponge lead become active when surrounded by electrolyte.
A 12 volt battery has six cells connected in series.
Each cell has an open circuit voltage of approximately 2.1 volts.
A 12 volt battery has an open circuit voltage of approximately 12.6 volts.
Electrolyte is a solution of sulfuric acid and water.
Sulfuric acid contains sulfate, which chemically reacts with both the positive (lead peroxide) & negative (sponge lead) plates to release electrical energy.
To achieve the proper chemical reaction the electrolyte solution should be 65% water & 35% sulfuric acid.
The charge of the battery drops if the sulfuric acid level drops.
The battery case, container or shell is a molded one-piece assembly constructed of polypropylene, hard rubber or plastic.
The case has a number of individual cell compartments.
The top of the battery is encased by a cell cover. The cover may be one piece or individual covers for each cell.
The cover has vent holes to permit the escape of hydrogen & oxygen gases. Vents may be part of the cover or can be removable.
Vent caps are used on some batteries to allow for topping of off the cell with water.
All batteries have two external terminals: a positive(+) and a negative(-).
The terminals are either tapered posts (top terminals), L terminals, threaded studs (marine) on the top or internally threaded on the side.
Terminals have either a positive(+) or a negative(-) marking, depending on which end of the six cells in series they represent.
Tapered (top) terminals have a given dimension agreed upon by the Battery Council International (BCI) and the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE).
This ensures that all positive(+) & negative(-) cable clamps can be attached any manufacturer`s battery.
The positive terminal is designed slightly larger to minimize the danger of installing the cables in reverse polarity.
Side terminals are positioned near the top of the battery case. These terminals are internally threaded and require a special bolt to connect the cables.
Some batteries are manufactured with both top and side terminals to allow one battery to be used in many vehicles.
Maintenance Free and Low Maintenance Batteries
Most batteries sold & installed are either low-maintenance or maintenance free designs.
A maintenance-free battery is similar in design to a conventional battery, but many components have thicker construction.
Antimony used in grid construction is reduced or eliminated and replaced by calcium or strontium.
This reduces the batteries internal heat and the amount of gassing during charging, which in turn reduces or eliminates the need to add water.
Maintenance Free and Low Maintenance Batteries
The use of calcium or strontium also produces a battery with a higher cold cranking power rating(approx: 20%) because of improved grid conductivity.
Maintenance-free batteries are equipped with small gas vents to prevent gas-pressure buildup in the case.Water is never added to maintenance-free batteries.
Low-maintenance batteries still have vent holes and caps, which allow water to be added to the cells. The addition of water to a low-maintenance battery is still substantially less than a conventional battery.
Hybrid Battery
Can withstand 6 deep cycles and still retain 100% of it`s reserve capacity.
2.75% antimony on the positive plates and calcium alloy on the negative plates.
Allows the battery to withstand deep cycling while retaining reserve capacity.
Grid lug located near center and grid bars have a radial design. Less resistance provides more current at a faster rate.
Glass separator plates offer low electrical resistance and high chemical contamination resistance.
Recombination Battery
Completely sealed maintenance-free battery. It uses electrolyte in a gel form.
In a gel-cell battery, gassing is minimized and vents are not needed.
During charging, the negative plates never reach a fully charged condition and therefore cause little or no release of hydrogen gas.
Oxygen is released at the positive plates, but it passes through the separators and recombines with the negative plates. This is why they are called recombination batteries.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries
Electrolyte is held in a moistened fiberglass matting instead of existing as a liquid or a gel.
The matting is sandwiched between the battery`s lead plates, where it also serves as a vibration dampener.
AGM Batteries
Rolls of high purity lead plates are tightly compressed into six spiral wound cells.
Between the plates are acid-permeated vitreous separators.Vitreous separators absorb acid in the same way a paper towel absorbs water.
Each spiral cell is enclosed it`s own sealed, closed, cylindrical environment. The battery case resembles a six-pack of “soda”.
AGM Batteries
During normal use hydrogen and oxygen are captured and recombined to form the water supply within the bound electrolyte, eliminating the need to ever add water.
Even if the case is damaged AGM batteries will never leak. They have short recharging times and low internal resistance for increased output.
AGM batteries also have exceptional durability in both high-heat and sub-zero climates.
Battery Cables.
Battery cables are used to connect the battery to the vehicle`s electrical system.
In a 12 volt system, cable size needs to be at least 4 to 6 gauge in order to carry the current required to meet all the vehicle`s demands.
Various styles of clamps are used to ensure a good electrical connection at each end of the cable.
Connections must be clean and tight to prevent arcing, corrosion, and high voltage drops between the terminal and clamp.
The positive cable is normally red and the negative cable normally black. The positive cable fastens to the battery positive terminal and the starter solenoid or relay. The negative cable fastens to the negative battery terminal and to a ground on the engine block and/or chassis.
Battery Hold-Downs
Batteries must be held securely in place to prevent the possibility of shorting across the terminal if they move or fall.
Hold-downs also increase battery life by reducing excessive vibration which, causes the plates to shed active materials.
Battery hold-downs are constructed of metal or plastic.
Battery Heat Shields
Some vehicles have heat shields which protect the battery from high under hood temperatures.
Heat shields must be removed and properly re-installed during battery replacement.
Vehicles equipped for cold climates may have a battery blanket or heater(warmer) to keep the battery warm during cold weather.
Battery Voltage
Cell size, state of charge, rate of discharge, battery condition & design, and electrolyte level all influence the voltage of a battery during discharge.
When cranking an engine, the voltage of an average battery at 80ºF may be about 11.5 to 12 volts. At 0ºF the voltage is significantly lower.
At low temperatures, the viscosity of the electrolyte increases, making it difficult for the acid to move into the plate pores and around the separators.
The chemical reaction rate is slowed and battery voltage is lowered, limiting battery output, especially during cranking.
Battery Capacity
Battery Capacity is the ability of the battery to deliver a given amount of current over a period of time.
This depends on the number & size of the plates used in the cells and the percentage of acid used in the electrolyte.
The Battery Council International(BCI) rates batteries according to reserve capacity and cold-cranking power.
When replacing a battery always refer to an application chart to select the correct BCI group number for the vehicle you are servicing.
The application chart matches the battery to the specific vehicle`s options.
Reserve Capacity
The reserve capacity rating represents the approximate time in minutes it is possible to travel at night with ignition and minimum electrical load, without an operating charging system.
The time in minutes is based on a 25 amp draw while maintaining a minimum 12-volt battery voltage of 10.5 volts at 80ºF (26.7ºC).
A 12-volt battery with a reserve capacity of 100 would be able to supply 25 amps for 100 minutes before the voltage would drop below 10.5 volts.
This rating is the electrical load the battery can supply in the case of a charging system failure.
Ampere-Hour Rating
The ampere-hour rating is the amount of steady current the a fully charged battery can supply for 20 hours at 80ºF (26.7ºC) without the cell voltage falling below 1.75 volts or the terminal voltage falling below 10.5 volts.
If a battery can be discharged for 20 hours at a rate of 4.0 amperes before it`s terminal voltage reads 10.5 volts, it would have a rating of 80 ampere-hours.
Watt-Hour Rating; Some battery manufacturers rate their batteries in watt-hours. Watt-hours is determined at 0ºF (-17.7ºC) because the battery`s capacity changes with temperature. The rating is determined by multiplying a battery`s amp-hour rating by the battery`s voltage.
Cold-Cranking
Cold-cranking amperes (CCA) rating specifies the minimum amperes available at 0ºF (-17.7ºC) and at -20ºF (-28.8ºC).
CCA has replaced amp-hour rating and is the common standard for low maintenance batteries.
This rating allows cranking capability to be related to engine displacement, compression ratio, temperature, cranking time, condition of engine and electrical system, and lowest practical voltage for cranking and ignition.
CCA indicates the amperes that a fully charged battery will maintain for 30 seconds without the terminal voltage falling below 7.2 volts on a 12 volt system.
Cold- Cranking
The cold-cranking rating is given in total amperage and is identified as 300 CCA, 400CCA, and so on.
On passenger cars and light trucks the CCA ranges between 300 to 600 CCA; some batteries have a rating as high as 1,100 CCA.
Cranking AMP Rating; This rating is similar to CCA and is a measure of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 32ºF for 30 seconds and maintain at least 1.2 volts per cell (7.2 volts in a 12 volt battery).
This rating is used in climates that rarely see 0ºF temperatures.
Battery Size Selection
In addition to all the other battery ratings, the battery has to be installed in the holding fixture and hold-down assembly.
The dimensions of the battery must be correct in order to be fastened into the assigned area in the vehicle.
Terminals must not come in contact with the hood or any other part of the vehicle, that can cause a short across the battery.
BCI numbers are given to the battery and designate physical size along with other features. Bigger is not necessarily better !!!
The battery label normally contains the following designations;
The battery shipping date from the manufacturer.The letter represents the month. A for Jan, B for Feb, and so on. The number represents the year. 8 for 1998, 1 for 2001, etc.
BCI Group Number
CCA or Amp-hour Rating.
Reserve Capacity Rating
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I think Vile pretty well answered that one
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I highly advise not getting the Pepboys brand battery. I had one in a 2003 cavalier and it would go dead if it sat for more than 5 days and it never seemed to have adequate cranking amps even though i took out a 500 cca and put in a 800 cca. I know it wasn't that hard to turn over a cheasy 4 cyl. I am running a Everstart battery in my Suburban its a 1000 cca and it has never failed me. I have let it sit for over 3 months while I rebuilt the motor and that battery still fired it right up. One time I had to remove the battery from the truck in order to jumpstart a car and that battery did it all by itself. But its really about personal preference and availability.
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DieHard Gold for whatever application you have.
I like to get the ones with the top post as well as the little GM side bolt terminals. It's easier if you jump another vehicle etc... with the top mounted posts as well---and I attach my big amp cable on the top posi post.
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Here is my .02,
I will NEVER buy another Interstate battery. I put one in a car and 6 months later it would only hold 10.8 volts (I had this verified by 2 professional mechanics). It had a 6 year warranty. I took it back to the shop I bought it from. They told me that an Interstate distributer came once a week and they would have to verify it was bad then they would replace it. A few days later I went to the shop and asked for my new battery. I was told that the distributer told the shop that he thought my battery was fine. and refused to replace it. On top of that he took my bad battery with him when he left. So I was left with out a good battery and I didn't even have a bad one to turn in for the core charge.
Ever since then I buy all my batteries from Walmart. Get the best deal you can on the warranty (I don't go less then 5 years). Pick a well known brand. Keep the receipt in your glove box. If it ever goes bad there are Walmarts every where. Exchanging a bad one with them is really easy (I have only had to take 1 back, it was 3 years old).
Also, I personally choose to go at least 200-300CCA over factory requirement. But I'm a bigger is always better type of guy. For example I'm running 900CCA in my '91 4.3L S10, I think factory requirement is only about 450CCA. I left the S10 sit for 6 months once and it fired right up like it had been run the day before. I would go more if I lived in a cold climate.
When I finally get my K20 on the road I'm looking at putting duel batteries in it with a shut off switch on the second one (probably 2 of whats in my S10). Just need to find someone that makes a left side battery tray that will bolt under the hood.
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All my toys run at least a 910 CCA Optima, but I have had very good luck with the Interstate in my daily driver 97 SWB... The GM battery went bad and I replaced it with an Interstate in 1999, which lasted until 2008 when I replaced it with another Interstate. I think alot of keeping a battery is making sure the terminals are tight, the cables are perfect, the battery is clean and the charging system is up to par. I also never let a vehicle sit for more than a week without either starting it or letting it charge on a trickle charger.
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I can speak for batteries in a HOT enviroment (S Florida)
For a simple lead/acid type I have had the great luck with batteries made by Johnson Controls, these include the Wal-Mart brand and Costco batteries, I'm sure they make other "brands" also.
The Delco Green Tops (# 1150) are dang near indestructable (Lead Calcium) and have a 180 min reserve capacity
Optimas are OK but have a low reserve capacity.
Hawker makes top of the line stuff, the Odyssey line is good stuff. (the US military uses Hawker batteries)
http://www.odysseyfactory.com/batteries.html
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jwill226, you came across a bad dealer. I have been using Interstate batteries on both my personal vehicles and Industrial engines for many years now. I had one one Oldyellers truck that was one there for 7 or 8 years and would have been in the truck longer if it hadnt had a hole knocked in it during an engine swap.
Ive also had good luck with Delcos. Every newer truck we have had the Delco battery from the factory, and they lasted 4-5 years at least.
I can say that anytime you let the battery fully discharge, you can bet that about half the life of the battery is gone. I see engines all the time with batteries that get run down because someone didnt tighen an alternator belt, of keep battery connections, each of which result in guaranteed battery with in the next 6 months, but on some the batteries have been going strong for several years. The crew keeps every thing clean and tight.
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After doing some more research, i found that ac delco is still made by johnson controls which means they're still good, so i'm going with them.
i was just worried about the recent gm situation with delhi/ac delco.
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im runnin dual optima red tops ive had 0 problems
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fyi Delco and Delphi are companies that are great at slapping labels on products although Delphi has been legit in R&D they've succumbed to the overtaking of dollars before SENSE
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There are only three companies that make batteries in the country. most on this side of the mississippi are made in winston salem, The die hards, interstate and all them off brands are made by the same company. It doesn't matter what you buy the 50 dollar one or the 200 dollar battery its only going to last about 5 years. When I buy a battery(which I'm getting one today) I'm going to buy the one that weights the most 39-40#'s and has a pro rate of 5 years. I'll pay about 85 bucks. and it will have near 900CCA. Them red and yellow top batteries are a waste of money.
nuff said
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In our frozen quebec climate the only battery Ive never seen have trouble on the coldest days are the AC Delco Professional series, which are made by Intersate. The cheaper series of the Delcos, also known as ACDs also seem to hold up quite well but they are made overseas. We never have warranty problems either with them and we seel a load of them. Before that I was running batteries from canadian tire but I have no idea who made them. They were sucky batteries, had to replace them once a year but they never asked questions or checked them. A plain and simple swap they were so used to it.
I also run the AC Delco motorsport batteries in my lawn tractor and bike.
So yeah my vote for battery brand is for AC Delco professional series. The technical aspects(Lead acid, gel, AGM, sealed, deep cycle...etc..) depends entirely on the application.
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I hear ya joesgarage... Not to knock the red tops (I have one in my 67 and it does look sweet) but I haven't seen the value in a triple digit cost. Vile outlined batteries like a professor! You really don't need those things except in extreme situations. I believe most of the cost is in the gel fill versus water... you don't get anymore life. My 87 sits most of the time so I've found a deep cycle works great. No need for a trickle charger. Drive it for fun in the summer and disconnect in the winter. Hook it back up next spring and it fires right up for 5 years or so. $90 bucks versus $200. I'd rather buy gas... My 67 with the fancy Optima requires a battery maintainer but I still like the cool look :D
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interstate in my opinion... mine is half full of tap water and in our cold wyoming winters of -20 truck starts just fine.. took the battery out used it in my friends yota cranked in it for bout 3 hours stuck it back in my k5 hit the key and down the road i went