73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Diesel Engine Discussion => Engine/Drivetrain => Cummins Swaps => Topic started by: cubicdollars on February 27, 2010, 05:31:46 AM
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Alright guys I jumped on the Cummins Bandwagon :):)
I picked up my 96 12V at the junkyard yesterday its got 135,000 miles on it and it had a pretty bad oil leak but the guy always kept it filled, I am sure the front cover is cracked somewhere.
I got the engine, NV4500 Bellhousing, Input shaft and cone to make my Chevy NV4500 to work with Dodge, the intercooler, Radiator, some exhaust, the cruis control, and some wiring I paid $2400 for everything.
Plan of attack is to purchase my conversion parts from a company out of Montana called http://www.autoworldmt.com/Page_9.html (http://www.autoworldmt.com/Page_9.html). They Said all brackets and everything I need to not cut the frame up will run $900. Its the Brackets to relocate the Alternator and A/C compressor, the engine mounts to properly locate the engine, and the pullys and belts.
I am going to spend a few months gathering the parts and when I have everything to put the engine in is when I'll tear down the dually for the repower.
My Questions are
1. I robbed a speedo and harness from a 91 Suburban with the electronic speedo and all the plugs fir the transmission does anyone have a Wire Diagram for the rest of the wiring?
2.Where do I get the right A/C hoses from?
3. Did anybody get the cruise control to work on there swaps?
I am sure more question will come up as I am gathering parts.
Here are some photos the engine is extremily dirty but it cleaned up rather well.
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Well I have the Moter Mounts, Alt and A/C brackets being made for the GM Componants and Pullys on the way for the repower.
I have the engine semi cleaned up I will be replacing all the gaskets and I think I am going to Powdercoat the exhause manifold and possibly turbo before I put the engine in.
Everything is comming along nicely except for the transmission I have an 92 NV4500 from a chevy that i was planning to use which is in sweet condition, ad I was going to convert it to the dodge config by swapping out the input shaft from the doner truck but since the Chevy NV is an older model it has lower 1st gear so I am not able to convert it to the Dodge config so I found a buildable Dodge NV4500 with a broken input shaft that I will have to put together, Hopefully I will be able to sell my chevy to pay for the rebuild since I already had the tranny I did not budget for a new one.
The plan is to gather all the parts and when everything is gathered then tear down the truck .
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good thing you managed to find a rebuildable trany...these nv4500 are expencive. I wasnt aware at frist when i started my swap the chevy and dodge trany its self was different i was going to just do a bell housing swap as well. I got luckey being able to trade my bike off for a new Nv4500, engine and all accessories and HD clutch.
Few Questions
Are your wheels 16"? and your mud flaps do you think there is some adjustability with them my truck is on bags and i was just going to set up some mud flaps so there just off the ground when the truck is slammed down?
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The parts truck I got the engine out of I also got the bell housing and such, I found an NV4500 out of a 99 that is had the input shaft broken the the gears are in good shape, So I guesse it for the best I'll have a rebuilt tranny when the truck goes in.
The rims are Factory Alcoa's and they are 16's I think I am going to have them powder coated gloss black.
The mud flaps have basic angle brackets that attach to the fram I believe you can modifiy them to work on just about anything, I can take some photos of the brackets if you want?
Thanks
Dan
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ya for the mudflaps i would just have to raise them up so they dont drag on the ground, so i could probably just pull the metal bracket off then cut the mudflap and rivet the flap back on... yeah the NV4500 from the gear center in calgary are 2600 with no bell housing so if you can get away with just replacing the shaft then perfect... might i add updating the 5th gear nut apparently there a problem...just like the down pin under the timing cover on the cummins.
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I'll have to check the 5th gear nut on the tranny I've ready that a few time, I also got extremily lucky and my pin was still in place :) I am going to change all the gaskets and build a tab to retain the pin :)
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cubic dollars, can I split this and move it to a Cummins conversion post?
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Sure :) The next time I update I will start a new post
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Just find it in the projects section, no need to start a new one.
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I've done a 5.3 4l60e conversion and got everything to work. cruise control, and speedo. the cruise control is mearly 4 wires from the switch, and 3 wires for the speedo. speedo has vss input (from the computer) power and ground. The cruise control you will have to compare the cruise control switches together. I'd bet they have the same control functions, but just to be sure. mine was chevy to chevy so I figured it would work, and it did.
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Well I ran into some snags on my NV4500, Origanally I bought a Chevy NV4500 out of a 1992 Chevy 1 ton Diesel truck, got it home and inspected it it was very clean and ready to install behind my BBC, well upon my procrstination I never installed it behind my BBC because I knew for the amout of work to install it I would not gain that many MPG's So when I decided to install the Cummins I thought I would be bucks up and be able to convert my chevy to the dodge BUT I soon found out after I got everything home that the older NV4500 had a lower 1st gear then the later ones I believe the split was 92-95 lower 1st gear and 96-99 or something like that, in 1996 when dodge introduced the NV in there trucks they had a larger input shaft than the chevys but the chevys can be converted to the dodge.
So here is where I am at I have a complete Chevy NV4500 that I cannot use, But I also found a 99 Dodge 2wd NV4500 off Craiglist for $500 I was told it needed Syncros and thats it so I talked him down to $360 Cash and I drove up 3 hrs and picked it up. Its was missing a few things but nothing major so I picked it up.
Well I get it home and pulled the top case and the gears are intact but it needed syncros and I pulled the Input shaft and I found the main shaft snapped :( Even a bad core goes for $500 so I still didnt get hurt i guesse :(
So now my friend ordered everything I need to rebuild this thing , parts are around $300 so I am still not too far upside down on it I guesse, Ass soon as I sell my chevy I'll should breake even on the whole deal.
So I guesse if I had to did it again I would of just spent the money of a rebuilt tranny up front instead of trying to peice this thing together :)
So since I am going to use the Dodge tranny I an back to not having a speedo cable, What is everyone else going to use?
But on a possitive note my AC/Alt brackets and engine mounts should be here next week. They are building the A/C bracket so I can use a small harrison pump off a 90's model 350 and a heavey duty chevy style alt. :)
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2.Where do I get the right A/C hoses from?
3. Did anybody get the cruise control to work on there swaps?
got my hoses made at my buddys shop cause they had a crimper any ac shop should be able to build them for you.
i had some body tell me that the chevy cruise control servo would not be strong enough to hold the cummins pump open, but i i would try it if your truck has one. I dont know because my truck was ordered top of the line......except for the cruise... for what reason i dont know.
I believe the cruise control on the dodge is controlled by the ecm
Maby try to use the dodge servo and the chevy wiring?? just a though worth investigating
By servo i mean the diaphragm pump that holds the throttle open.
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yeah i wanted to put a cruise control in mine as well but my dually never had it so im just going to use a mechanical hand throttle off a semi truck used for idling up the engines it should work when your just crusin flat land
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btw, the motor will run better if you remove the coverplate from the valve covers that reads "dodge ram"......just a suggestion lol
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I figured I'd Ebay it and try to recoup some money :):)
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This is what I am going to be pulling with my cummins conversion :)
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Alright I recieved my parts from Autoworld they were pretty expensive but to be able to use GM Parts it was worth it to me, My only concern is having to the the center section out, For as small as that pan is I am not sure I will have to cut anything it all depends how low the engine sits in compared to the BBC. Here is the list with Part numbers and prices
Motor Mount kit for GM 73-00/2wd GMMM $375.00
AC/Alt Bracket set for Harrison Pump No P/N $250.00
Dual Pulley for new Brackets NO P/N $150.00
Belt 6V X 40 K060400 $21.00
Belt-Serp 6 Groove for A/C K060705 $35.00
Cover for oil sevise on main case 3903463 $13.00
Valve cover with access hole 3902605 $49.00
SHipping Charger $27.00
Grand total $920.00
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oh this is a sweet project. cant wait to hear how it turns out. awesome putting the cummins in.
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very interested to see how all that bracketry works out and how the engine mounts work
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I will keep you up to date, the alternator and the AC brackets are really nice. I havent been working my swap much lately I took a new job and I do not have as much time :(
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i know its been awhile since this thread was last replyed on but is there any new updates on it?
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Not too much, I took another job out of town and all my projects are in storage, but this last weekend I brought back my engine and tools and set everything up in my small garage, next I plan on replacing my head gasket and all other gaskets then reassembling the engine. Over the thanksgiving break I will remove the BBC in the dually and prep the engine bay then over Christmas I plan on installing the cummins and getting it road worthy.
My transmission is still in the shop waitng to get rebuilt and the only thing I think I am lacking are a radiator fan shroud, Throttle cable, and small parts.
I'll post some picts of the head gasket change this week.
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Thanksgiving? Christmas? That's half a year away! We cant wait that long! Jk, got to make the $$ to pay for it.
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Where did you get your A/C and Alt. Brackets? I have bought a 12 Valve and will be trying to do the swap this winter.
Lots of good info on this thread over at 4BT swaps.
http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?10490-95-12v-into-88-Chevy-V30-4x4-Crew
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Thats great:) I saw your post the other day, I cant wait to see it.
I got my Brackets fro Auto World in Great Falls Montana they are an awsome company and very helpfull. http://autoworldmt.com/ (http://autoworldmt.com/)
Everything together was pretty expensive but the parts are top quality and I was able to use my GM AC compressor and Alternator
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Looking forward to your posts cubicdollars! Have you ever checked out dieselbombers website too? Here's one of their Chevy/Cummins conversion threads.
http://www.dieselbombers.com/diesel-engine-conversions/10339-chevy-cummins-conversions-check-here-3.html
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Hey Everyone just figured I'd throw an update together I have ben working my Dually and my stepside at the same time so I will send an update on that as well.
I removed the Cummins head and had it freshened and I re gasketed the entire engine, It only han 135000 but I didntwant to put it in and have a pan gasket leak or something. I have the fron clip off and I am in the process of removing the engine I am hoping to get it removed this weekend as planned I still havea few loose ends to tie up before and during the install portion.
1.N4500 Frankenstien tranny needs to be assembled(Dodge input shaft, Bellhousing, and case-Chevy output shaft and tailhousing)
2.Drill Engine mount's
3.Cut front to clear balancer and pully
4.purchase new throttle cable-I was told the Chevy Diesel cable will be a direct fit
5.Make Hyd line for Dodge Slave Cylinder to Chevy Master Cylinder
6.mount Dodge radiator and intercooler on front clip
It wont let me post via Webshots Check out my link the updated photos will be on page 39 and 40
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linked some for you. Nice progress.
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Thanks Chris :)
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This is very cool to see the progress. My brother did this to his '88 western hauler as well. I just purchased an '88 model quad cab that I am planning on putting a cummins in as well so I will be paying close attention. 8)
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I got the engine stuffed this weekend to pre fit and mark where I have to cut to clear the balancer. It fits very nice I have plenty of room on the back firewall and I believe if I wrap the turbo and exhaust I will not have any problems on that side. I am getting pretty excited to get this complete and on the road :)
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I have been working alot on the weekends to get this installed before spring.
I got the engine completly buttoned up, New gaskets, rebuilt head, and Killer Dowel pin mod complete. I got a plasma cutter and notched the crossmember to clear the balancer and the engine is installed for a final time hopefully.
If anyone has photos of there Dodge Rad and Intercooler install I'd like to see them, Also would like to see how the condensor was mounted
Things to do yet.
1.Finish cutting and mounting the Dodge radiator and intercooler into the radiator support.
2.Wire the engine
3.Install NV4500 Transmission
4.work on intercooler plumbing
5.plumb Exhaust
6.Remove bed and clean gas out of the tanks to prepare for diesel
7.Set valve's
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I am really envious of this..
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I'm diggin it!!! Too darned cool man!
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A thing of beauty. My buddy has one done in a 89? crew cab dually. He bought it from a guy who's dad put it together. To bad the title didn't match the truck, not even close so there it sits. I would love to have it...
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If anyone has photos of there Dodge Rad and Intercooler install I'd like to see them, Also would like to see how the condensor was mounted
My conversion is from an 89 Cummins that didn't come with a Intercooler so it currently is without. However, I would like to eventually add one so did some digging and this is what I came up with.
http://www.krawltex.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4833&sid=106f16f4853f6b9445263874d522a86a&start=15
(http://www.krawltex.com/newtex/albums/album356/12V_Finale_031.sized.jpg)
This may also help.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/showthread.php?t=149268
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Thanks Guys :)
I am really amazed how well this sits in the engine bay, I am really ready to get it back on the road I hate not having a tow rig, Always seems like you need to pull the trailer when the truck is down.
Thanks for the pics of the support I'll take some more photo's this weekend on how I cut by rad support out and mounted my Intercooler and Rad, Got to mount the condensor right behind the grill now and make a fan shroud, the factory dodge wont work.
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Well my fan sits as close as Edahall's Burb. I for everything cut and mocked up and installed on the truck. I am going to have to make a fan shroud the there is no way I will be able to get the factory one to fit. I cut the heck out of the radiator support to get the Factory Dodge intercooer to work I just need to fab some mount and secure it. I am going to mount the condenser in front of the radiator just behind the grill.
I will be able to use the factory style water hoses and I am working on the wiring and plumbing. I am hoping to get 2 solid days on it next weekend and I am going to take an extra day off 2 weeks from now and hopefully get it fired up. I am working on a list tonight on what needs complete and what needs purchased.
I still cant believe how sweet this thing fits in and I also Highly recomend to anyone doing this mod in the future to use the Chevy Alt and AC Pump. the brackets I bought from Autoworld- http://autoworldmt.com/ (http://autoworldmt.com/) are really sweet.
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Id be worried to have my fan sit that close to the radiator, especially with how flexible our frames are...
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Got it Fired this weekend !!!!!!!!!!
It runs great plenty of throttle response, I still have plenty of work ahead of me to finish the install but at least I know it runs good.
I forgot my camerat this weekend I will catch up more photo's next week.
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Got it Fired this weekend !!!!!!!!!!
It runs great plenty of throttle response, I still have plenty of work ahead of me to finish the install but at least I know it runs good.
I forgot my camerat this weekend I will catch up more photo's next week.
Congratulations!!!
Yeah, the throttle response on these engines are amazing. And behind a manual transmission, they'll pull anything.
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Edahall
What did you do for your Slave Cylinder Hyd line? I would like to keep my stock master cylinder and use the Dodge Slave but the hyd shop I went to did not have the fittings I need and I really do not want do buy a factory dodge line to cut in up?
Thanks
Dan
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Edahall
What did you do for your Slave Cylinder Hyd line? I would like to keep my stock master cylinder and use the Dodge Slave but the hyd shop I went to did not have the fittings I need and I really do not want do buy a factory dodge line to cut in up?
Thanks
Dan
Well, I actually ended up using a master cylinder off of a Jeep YJ. It pretty much fits right in but the shaft had to be lenghened to connect to the clutch pedal.
I'm not sure if the stock chevy master cylinder will even work. From what I recall, the diameter is smaller than the slave cylinder. The result would be a light clutch pedal feel but I don't know if it has enough volume to release the clutch. The Jeep master cylinder also has a smaller diameter but it has enough volume to release the clutch. However, it requires a lot of travel on the clutch pedal to operate. I can take some pictures if you would like. Let me know.
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If you would that would be great, I found a website that talks about converting the line to use the dodge slave cylinder and plan on doing that I guesse if I have light clutch pedal I know what rout I have to go nect. Thanks for the info :)
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Edahall
What did you do for your Slave Cylinder Hyd line? I would like to keep my stock master cylinder and use the Dodge Slave but the hyd shop I went to did not have the fittings I need and I really do not want do buy a factory dodge line to cut in up?
Thanks
Dan
Well, I actually ended up using a master cylinder off of a Jeep YJ. It pretty much fits right in but the shaft had to be lenghened to connect to the clutch pedal.
I'm not sure if the stock chevy master cylinder will even work. From what I recall, the diameter is smaller than the slave cylinder. The result would be a light clutch pedal feel but I don't know if it has enough volume to release the clutch. The Jeep master cylinder also has a smaller diameter but it has enough volume to release the clutch. However, it requires a lot of travel on the clutch pedal to operate. I can take some pictures if you would like. Let me know.
This is correct, the chevy master cylinder is too small and causes a mushy pedal, i tryed it for a while it would barely disengage the clutch. Also, i had trouble finding a replacement line for the chevy setup. i used a master and line from say like a 94 or so f350. The ford master and line use the same oring and roll pin style set up as the dodge slave. But i also had to lenghten the shaft and it requires a lot of travel as well to disengage the clutch. I had to egg the mounting holes on the master slightly as well to fit over the chevy studs on the firewall
Also, somebody (areoquip it think) makes a conversion fitting that goes from the roll pin style to a/n style, then you can use a line like this http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBPA0030-36/ areoquip also sells tfe brake line in bulk that you can make to length and install you own fittings. I plumbed the brake system on my rock buggy with it and i have not had a failure in the 3 years it has been built.
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Thanks for the Info !! I priced out the Master Cylinder for the F350 at Oriellys for $40 bucks. Also found the fittings from Summit for the -3 adapter to the roll pin I am going to get everything on order this weekend so Hopefully I will be able to put a done stamp on the clutch next weekend.
I got the Hydro Boost hydro line from the master cylinder to the powersteering pump modified, I used the chevy line and the dodge end swedged together, the factory chevy line did not have the correct bend for the dodge pump.
I also got the down pipe worked out, I bought a gen 1 three inch pipe with a little modification it worked sweet, I'll post the part number and photo's this week.
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Thanks Fred for the heads up on the 94 Ford Master cylinder I picked it up and it looks like it will work great, The ford pushrod is about 3.5 inches shorter that the chevy I think I am going to modify the chevy end to fit in the Ford master cylinder that should get me the right length for the pushrod.
Got a few things done this weekend as stated before enjoy the picts.
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Nice swap, it looks great. I did mine in 04 and cut up the core support like you did. After a few years my support started twisting and cracking. I had to add extra support to the bottom and a couple vertical braces on the new one I made for it. My fan was also very close so I ran two pusher electric fans instead. Never gets above 180. What gears are you running?
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I might have to look into the dual pushers, I have 4.10 gears and eventually would like to put 3.55 in the truck.
I got alot done the weekend. I finished and painted the radiatior support , finished the intercooler and radiator install, plumbed the fuel line to the factory hard line, filled it with water to check for leaks, finished draining and filling the fuel tanks with deisel, and installed my clutch and mastercylinder.
I took the advise from crewcabfred and installed a Ford F350 Master cylinder and bought Russel fittings and Brake lines from Summit. I had to modify the chevy mounting hole for the push rod and I cut down the chevy pushrod but I plan on doingthe same as crewcabfred and modifying the ford rod. I also got my hyd return line T installed.
The engine runs like a champ it's nice to have an engine fire up like it does I am very pleased. I am finally suppose to be getting my new NV4500 this week and as soon ass it's installed I will be able to measure my driveshaft and have it cut down.
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awesome progress, those fittings make for a clean look, im glad it all worked out for you!
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Thanks Fred
I used the way you extended the pushrod out as well, I hit up Lowes and picked up some threaded peices an some all thread the cut my pushrod the Die'd the pushrod and assembled it all then just cut the all thread till I got the peddles to line up properly, I also added a bracket behind the peddle just in case I side stepped the clutch and popped out the pushrod.
I just got my driveshaft back so I have yet to drive it, maybe this weekend :):)
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Swap is complete and it runs great :):):) I have a few things to finalize before I tow but it's definatly road worthy
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04657.jpg?t=1305254978)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04659.jpg?t=1305255031)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04660.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04661.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04663.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04665.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04667.jpg)
[imghttp://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04671.jpg]http://[/img]
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04672.jpg?t=1305255227)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04673.jpg?t=1305255227)
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turned out awesome
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awesome, that turned out very well, truck as a great stance.
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wow that thing looks amazing. i know a guy around here that has the same EXACT thing, except his has a 4BT.
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Thanks Guys !! I'd like to do a 4BT in a Taho :)
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Great job on the swap!!!
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Killer swap Cubic$$$. Congrats!
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What Alternator did you end up using and what are you doing for a tach signal?
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I am using the chevy alt from a 1990 Suburban alon with the AC Compressor, I do not have a tach in the truck but I think there is tach adapters availble.
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Beautiful job. Starting to see more swaps like this, and for good reason, nothing beats the simplicity of a mechanical diesel.
How loud us it in the cab?? Probably not any louder than a first gen. Ram I guess??
Excellent work.
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Beautiful job. Starting to see more swaps like this, and for good reason, nothing beats the simplicity of a mechanical diesel.
How loud us it in the cab?? Probably not any louder than a first gen. Ram I guess??
Excellent work.
FYI: The Cummins from the first Gen. Ram I had a VE pump that ran quieter than the Second Gen Ram from 94-97 that had the P-pump. Then when they went to 24V in 98, the engines got significantly louder.
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Beautiful job. Starting to see more swaps like this, and for good reason, nothing beats the simplicity of a mechanical diesel.
How loud us it in the cab?? Probably not any louder than a first gen. Ram I guess??
Excellent work.
FYI: The Cummins from the first Gen. Ram I had a VE pump that ran quieter than the Second Gen Ram from 94-97 that had the P-pump. Then when they went to 24V in 98, the engines got significantly louder.
Thanks a lot. I never really though about the injector pump being so heavily related to engine noise.
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I put full exhaust on mine and it helped quiet it down but it's still pretty loud, You can talk but you have to speak up a little more :) My cab is pretty rusty so when I find my new cab I plan on spraying on Lizard Skin on the Inside and outside firewall as well the the floor. That should help a little.
Thanks
Dan
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On mine, I did about a 30% coverage of quick roof, topped with closed cell foam, and a layer of Mass loaded vinyl......Hopefully in a 3-4 weeks I can let you know how that quieted down. RIght now mine is loud too, but no side windows, exhuast, and hood kind of kill any relevance at this point!
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Let Me know how that works out for you.
I was planning on Bringing my dually and trailer on its longest trip to date last weekend but as I was about to pull out of town I noticed a bad fuel leak, Earlier that day I finally filled my other tank aftyer being drained and I switched tanks to make sure I was ulling fuel properly, Well evidently The valve was stuck in 1 position for so long I split an internal o ring or something it was leaking out of the bottom weep hole of the Valve :( I will replace the switch and try it again, Thank God I noticed it before I left on the 200 mile trip :)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g431/Thorenson/1985%20Crew%20Cab%20Dually/DSC04697.jpg)
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wow, sucks to hear man..like you said, least you had it happen at home
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I am soooo copying you...thats just awesome. ;D
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Thanks Man
Well Made my first long haul :) no problems finally :) I got 200 miles out of 1 tank thats twice as much as before I figure around 11 mpg with a trailer. it ran 210 the entire time and did not get warmer than that even when I was pulling hills. I still have a laundry list of things to do. Finish AC installation, Time the fuel pump, check and set valve lash, and bumb the fuel plate.
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Very nice project build. Great job of photo documenting and writing it up. Keep up the good work.
Since the Cummins is so heavy, how are the front springs taking the additional weight? Or is it too early to tell?
Rusty
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I got the same clutch master cylinder, did you have any trouble with firewall flexing? My cab was an automatic, so not sure if the manual cabs had a different support there or not?
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Hey Guys, Thanks for the compliments
So far the front end is ok, I replaced the old springs when I lowered it with Bell Tech springs so I think that helped, I would eventually like to install airbags in the front but not anytime soon.
My Ftruck always had a hyd clutch and when I installed the new one it pretty much bolted up except for the push rod, I have not noticed the firewall fleving on mine but I also have never looked for that condition. I can tell you the clutch pedel force feels about the same between the 2 hyd slave cylinders.
thanks
Dan
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I got the same clutch master cylinder, did you have any trouble with firewall flexing? My cab was an automatic, so not sure if the manual cabs had a different support there or not?
My 1990 Suburban originally had an automatic and now that it has been converted over, I don't notice any firewall flexing. Is your clutch pedal unusually stiff? If so, that might be the source of your firewall flexing. You can change the firmness of your pedal with a clutch master cylinder of difference bore size. There's a thread on this if you're interested.
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if you swapped out the pedal assembly from an auto to manual the extra length and holes are what provides the support. The cab is the same otherwise.
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I figured out my problem with the firewall flex. When I converted it, I used the pedal assembly out of my 78 parts truck.....what I didn't know was the hyd years used the two braces that go to the master cylinder. So I either need to find a set of those or make some. Originally I used a 94 dodge cummins mastercylinder and modified the firewall but it was wayyyy to stiff as the motion ratios where wrong. Now it is much better. All part of the learning process I guess.
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Love it!
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Been a while since I have updated this project, ihave been working in Mexico setting up the plant down here.
Bought a new cab a few weeks ago to replace my rusty one ,mine is rusting in the firewall and the cab corners, found an 88 that's sweet I plan on blasting it and starting the body work, I wil purchase a couple of gallons of second skin to undercoat which will help with the cummins noise.
The truck is at the shop this week getting fuel pump timed and valves set. Owner told me he a 3.55 gear set and the missing speedo gear set that I need to make the mechanical speedo going.
I am still in love with the cummins swap and I am ready to finish it so I can dedicate some time to my step side-decided to twin turbo the 489 that came out of the dually :):)
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CubicDollars, great thread and a nice looking truck. I have collected what I hope are most the parts I need to do a swap into a 79 Chevy that will now be 4x4. The biggest question I have never found an answer to is the wiring. You solved some of it by sticking with a Chevy alternator and A/C compressor. Just pulled the harness off my donor 97 12 valve. Its got wiring plugs on the fuel filter, lift pump, injection pump, one on the front of the block, one on the head, one in the intake manifold, one into the nv4500 and of course the speedo is electric. How did you make yours run!?! Biggest quandary is what if I need all the ones in the fuel system?
Any info you want to provide would be awesome!!
Always wanted a slammed 4dr dually!!
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Thanks :)
Its got wiring plugs on the fuel filter,-This is a sensor to detect water in the fuel, I just cut the wires back and did not use that sensor, I just just the filter when I change oil or randomly
lift pump,I believe you are talking about the round componant by the fuel pump, I was told that was a fuel heater, mine was burned up and when I asked around I was told in my area i would never need it so i removed it
injection pump,This one you need,its the engine cutoff switch, they burn up or go bad on occasion, mine was missing the previous owner removed it and used a choke cable into the cab to kill the engine, I bought a new one off ebay I believe it was from a guy called Larry B he sells cummins parts, I wired it up per his instructions and it works great
one on the front of the block,I was told this was a tach signal not sure, it ran through the Dodge computer so I just did not run it. I was told you can buy a new tach signal to use in chevy's but I really dont need one so I live with out it.
one on the head,this is the water temp, stock Chevy temp guage from my BBC went in with a pipe adapter, no problems
one in the intake manifold, I am not sure what this one was its either inlet temp or boost, I just did not hook it up beacuse it went through the computer, I would like to add a boost and EGT guage eventually though
one into the nv4500 and of course the speedo is electric.This one here has got me stumped, There is websites out there that gives part numbers for the mechanical gear cluster but when I went to the dodge dealerwith the numbers it was obsolete I havnt looked really hard either I have been using my GPS to check my speed
Honestly these engines are very simple, the only require a fuel source and a way to start them to get them to run, the starter wires the same as a chevy, I really am glad I spent the money for the chevy brackets I am not a big fan of wiring and with these I did not have too.
I want to see your project I really enjoy seeing how others turn out, Thanks again for the compliments it was a lot of work but completly worth it. I would like to do a cummins full size blazer or a short box someday
Thanks
Dan
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Dan
Thanks so much for the QUICK reply! You gave me more info then I have run across in 2 years of looking through a bunch of different forums and such. Still need to track down a few things looks like. Is there anyplace to get an oil pressure? Seems like that could be important! Wiring doesn't scare me really, just finished droppin an LT1 into a 49 Plymouth but I put just as much as possible out of the donor car in there as possible. Trying to go a different way this time. Really want to run a Chevy wiring and keep my cluster and all that.
Will try to get a post started on my build. Not really much to look at! I pulled the truck apart to many years ago to do a resto and then decided to add the Cummins. That has snowballed into a 1 ton frame and different axles and on and on! At the moment no 2 parts are bolted together!
May have more questions as I go so I hope I don't pester you to much!
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No Problem :) I cant wait to see your project, the oil pressure port is by the moter mount on the driver side, I used the chevy sending unit it screwed right in the dodge hole. If you run an intercooler try to flip it so the inlet/outlit ports come out on the top. I put mine the way it came out of the dodge but the tubing hit on the wheel wells. I have another radiator support to cut up and mount mine but I havnt taken the time yet, I am not exactly sure how that will turn out.
Thanks
Dan
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Can you give a good link you where you got you kit from? Also do you have a good link to the pictures
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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im going to go out on a limb here and say he might not respond anytime soon. your best bet is to post a question you have and me or bajaburban can answer it for you