73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => Topic started by: team39763 on March 17, 2010, 12:13:00 pm
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The local shop won't touch my truck and the next nearest alignment shop is 120 miles away. I was told that my tie-rod ends were bad, so I'm replacing them. My wheels are staggered, so I'm not sure if the string method will work(my rear wheels stick out sevaral inches more than my front ones). Any tips for getting me close enough to good for getting down the track? My race is on Sunday and I want to make a good impression with my chevy truck.
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Use a Tape Measure and spend some time measuring you can determine camber, caster, toe etc.
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Why won't they touch it? Do you have a lazer level?
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If the shop knows what they are talking about then the parts are bad... so if your going to replace them, why would you not take them back to the shop that diagnosed a problem?
clint
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My neighbor told me about the bad tierods and after driving the truck I decided i didn't feel safe racing with it like that. The alignment shop said that it was modified too much from stock(lowered with spindles and cut aftermarket springs) and also that it wasn't street legal for them to road test(they're a few blocks from the Police Station). I don't have a lazer level, but if I can find one cheap enough at the hardware store I'll buy one. If not? I think my biggest concern is the "toe" adjustment. That is what I think my problem is now. My truck switched lanes on me the last time I took it out for a test-drive.
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Hi there, I align my Latemodel circle track car myself at home. I use a Longacre brand caster camber guage and a set of toe plates. I also have a set of turntables but they're not required. To set the toe just use a piece of tubing sticking out farther than the outside of one front wheel to past the outside of the other front wheel, this piece will lay flat on the ground sticking out past each wheel. Weld another piece of the same tubing (like arms) on each end that will reach half way up each wheel, drill a hole in each arm and put a 1/4" bolt thru one side and a piece of all thread in the other. Lay it under the truck in back of the front wheels and with the arms sticking up, have somebody push the bolt side against that sides rim then spin the all thread against the other sides rim. Pull it out from under the truck and lay it in front of the wheels puting the bolt against the rim and comparing the all thread side you will know if you are toed out or in. If there is a gap between the all thread and the wheel in the front than you are toed in, no gap= toed out, even=0 toe.
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Hi there, I align my Latemodel circle track car myself at home. I use a Longacre brand caster camber guage and a set of toe plates. I also have a set of turntables but they're not required. To set the toe just use a piece of tubing sticking out farther than the outside of one front wheel to past the outside of the other front wheel, this piece will lay flat on the ground sticking out past each wheel. Weld another piece of the same tubing (like arms) on each end that will reach half way up each wheel, drill a hole in each arm and put a 1/4" bolt thru one side and a piece of all thread in the other. Lay it under the truck in back of the front wheels and with the arms sticking up, have somebody push the bolt side against that sides rim then spin the all thread against the other sides rim. Pull it out from under the truck and lay it in front of the wheels puting the bolt against the rim and comparing the all thread side you will know if you are toed out or in. If there is a gap between the all thread and the wheel in the front than you are toed in, no gap= toed out, even=0 toe.
I'll see if I can do that saturday when my buddy comes back to town(he can weld, I can't). This sounds like a real good way to check. Thanks for the tip.
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Hey team. There's an article in Hot Rod Mag. this month on aligning your car yourself. I just got it in the mail. It's probly not on the news stand yet but maybe you can see the article online if you don't have a subscription?
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Thanks, I'll go check that out.
I got the driverside tie-rods in with a little help from the wife. In the morning I'll do the passengerside and attempt to align it.
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you have got to post up a picture of this bad non legal street racing truck. Dude if someone said its not legal.. I'd be like show me how its not. (nicely so they just dont refuse service to you). Watch them twist and squirm... then when they say its too modified... ha, be like theres still good ol old school measurements to use. left caster 3.0 right caster 3.5 (want no more than .5 degree cross caster) and on the camber close to 0 or maybe a tad inwards... and toe... wow, pretty much just a tad towed in... dont want it 0.0 or it will wander on every little crack. this shop is pathetic, they are turning away business in this economy... whatever. If they said its not street legal for me to drive.. i'd be like well how about you do as I ask and align the truck, I'll drive it for your incompetant self and tell you if the steering wheel is cenered and if it pulls...wow thats sums it all up...wow
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The truck really isn't street legal. It doesn't have lights, no speedo, no mufflers, lexan windows all around, fuel cell in the bed, no mirrors, no bumpers, slicks in back and non DOT rubber up front, rear window is painted black, emissions equipment removed. On top of all that, it's a handful to drive(atleast for a newbie).
I found a shop 35 miles from here that said they will do it, but not until next weekend(races are tomorrow). I'm just gonna do my best to follow the tips given here and hope for the best.
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ah, definatly sounds legal to me.. haha, still post some pictures...
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Here's a kinda recent pic. It's changed a little from that one though. I'll snap more during the races today.
(http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f143/team39763/100_0092.jpg)