73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: Jeff on April 02, 2010, 06:24:55 pm
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('74 short bed, step side/resto-mod) Should I pay a professional to remove the front and back glass?. I have removed everything but the bezel, column, throttle cable, and heater. I'll remove those items hopefully tomorrow. I just haven't been able to figure out how to remove the glass without breakage. I'm preparing the cab for a visit to the sandblaster. Thanks for your advice.
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Do it yourself.
On the front, pull the metal locking clip and then pull out the locking strip, then gently push the window out..
On the back, get inside and flip the top corner of the gasket down then put a little pressure on the glass and slowly work it out. Have someone on the outside if you think you will drop it.
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Remove the locking zipper strip, then cut the rubber with a utility knife that still remains holding the glass in.
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Thanks Capt'n & Blazin! I just got the front windshield out about 10 minutes ago. But the rear windshield has got to be "welded in-place". Should I use a utility knife, and sacrifice the gasket?. Seam's to be the lessor of evils, I'd rather not break the glass. Thanks again, for your help. ;D
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I wouldn't cut it. You should be able to get it out. the beginning is the hard part.
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If the rear rubber has the zipper they come out so much easier. If it's the solid rubber it's a little harder. If the rubber is hard as a rock just cut it and replace the gasket to avoid cab and window damage. If it's not use some windex and a piece of 16 gauge wire. Run it between the channel and the rubber. Once you get it working push lightly on the window. Once it starts to pop out the rest is easy.
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Thanks Vile; It's a single, but very hard rubber gasket installed on the rear glass. I've pulled, tugged, pushed, etc.. I've got some 14 ga. stranded wire, that might work with the windex. I'll give it a try today, if not, I'll dissect the gasket. I don't have much more work to do, and the cab can be removed from the frame, and off to the sandblaster. Thanks again!!!
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After removing both front and rear windshields, I've discovered some "bad" rusty areas. Can this be cut-out, and new steel welded in it's place?. Or, spray "rust converter" on the areas (exterior), and fill the hollow holes with "all metal"?. Thanks in-advance for your help.
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I really appreciate all the great info that I've receive thus far......Please!!!, anyone care to comment on the last post, please? ;D
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How bout some pix so we can see how bad it is? Take a wire wheel and clean it all out good. If it's rotted you will have to do some repairs but it's hard to give that kind of advice without seeing it.
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You can repair it (what I suggest) but there are no patch panels for this.
Check this post: http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=14132.30
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Thanks for the responses. I just left the garage, I'll try my best to post some photos tomorrow. I'm currently in the process of removing the heater box from underneath the dash. I've found a lot of rust that was painted-over, and not properly repaired.
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I'm "throwing-in the towel". I can't resolve the "how to's" in order to resize a jpg file photo from my "CrackBerry" to a file less than 128k. I sure appreciate all the valuable info given. I've tried to send just one photo (taken with the CrackBerry), and the jpg file exceeds 128k. After I calm down, and finish my "honey-do's", I'll try later to send some photos. ??? I do not have a PC, I've got a Mac.
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email the pix to me if you want and I'll host them for you.
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Here ya go
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last one
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It looks repairable from your pics. I would wire wheel all of the rust and apply a rust converter just to make sure. Clean it real good and knock out all of the loose stuff. Where you have larger holes, weld in some metal and fill the area with filler. Sand it out smooth and make sure it's well protected before you paint it.
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Thanks Vile for assisting with hosting the pics. I can't thank you enough for the info & advice. I thought the cab was not worth repairing. I have been taking photos during this project, and when I finish, I will post the photo diary from start to end. I have about a gallon of OSPHO rust converter. After wire wheeling the bad areas down to bare/pitted steel, bathing with rust converter, can I use "etching primer" as a temporary primer until I'm ready to shoot a better primer? Next Thursday, I'm buying a small utility trailer. So, I should be able to take the cab to a body shop for the needed welding repairs. Unfortunately, I don't own a welder. Hope the charges for the rust repairs won't be too expensive. Thanks again, for your help.
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Yes you can. Why not invest in a welder? You'll use it and sve on future repairs/fabrications
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This will be my last project, otherwise I'd invest in a larger compressor as well as a good MIG welder. I'm going to retire in about 5 years, my wife and I are thinking about "downsizing" to a smaller home & smaller garage. I think I can locate a body shop to "properly" repair the rusty areas. The right rear (step side) fender has a small dent that could be repaired at the same time. Not to change the subject, what's your opinion of Valspar tractor and implementation primer & paint? I wanted to go with the John Deere tractor paint scheme, but my wife said she wouldn't ride in the truck. :-\ Thanks again for the help ;D
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Well I hate John Deere since they started selling Home Depot and Lowes walmart quality tractors and lawn mowers so I'm with your wife on that one.
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How about painting the entire truck (inside & out) John Deere yellow? It's a bright yellow.
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Do it yourself.
On the front, pull the metal locking clip and then pull out the locking strip, then gently push the window out..
On the back, get inside and flip the top corner of the gasket down then put a little pressure on the glass and slowly work it out. Have someone on the outside if you think you will drop it.
pics of the clips and location? i think i'm gonna keep my glass outta my spare cab just in case. now that i see his had some rust it's makin me panic.