73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Highs (Raising/Lifts) => Topic started by: KY..Rob on April 03, 2010, 05:39:24 pm
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Here is a couple pics of my Pitman Arm and Steering Arm. The Pitman Arm looks a little weird to me? and I'm not sure if this Steering Arm is aftermarket or a Stock Steering Arm. My truck has a 6" lift, But I don't know which brand. The Pitman Arm bolts around the Steering Gear shaft and does not have a bolt on the bottom and the shaft does not appear to be threaded. I have gutted the front end and have all new Tie Rods and Drag link to go back in. But i don't want to wear out the parts again due to a bad Pitman Arm or Steering Arm.
What say you Guy's. Does this look right to you?
Thanks
Rob..
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r436/KYRob1970/85frontend077.jpg)
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r436/KYRob1970/85frontend083.jpg)
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r436/KYRob1970/85frontend082.jpg)
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(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r436/KYRob1970/85frontend084.jpg)
(http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r436/KYRob1970/85frontend080.jpg)
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The pitman arm is right. It clamps on to the shaft of the steering box shaft. With the 6" lift, I would go get a new steering arm made for lifted trucks. Many lift kit companies have them, as well as ebay. Your drag link wont wear out as fast.
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Thanks Beastie. I kinda thought the Steering Arm was Factory :'( And I know why it is still there! These are a pure Pain in the butt to get off. I have been pricing a few of them, I have seen prices from $100 bucks to $20 bucks and I say you get what you pay for..LOL..How about Torque on the Tie Rods? I think the steering arm is about 90 foot pounds.
Thanks,
Rob..
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Well I'm putting her back together, All new parts underneath..She should handle great now. Any one have an idea on the Torque rating for Tie Rods? will I be safe at 100 foot pounds?
Rob..
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Tie rod ball joints 45
Tie rod clamp bolts 35
Steering arm to knuckle nuts 90
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Thanks Beastie, I guess I would have been safe..and probably broke something. She is all torqued down and set at "0" Toe and the wheel is pretty straight.
So is "0" Toe all there is to it? do I still need an alignment?..The only problem I am having is a slight binding of the steering wheel and a "Squeak..Squeak... when I turn the wheels all the way around. I think this is due to a faulty steering pump and a bad belt.
What say you Guy's?
Rob..
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Have someone turn the steering lock to lock while you look under the truck to find the squeak and binding.
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what steering arm did you end up putting on there? in the pic above is that the steering arm with 6" lift? what about the adjusting sleeve? the one in the pic looks stock so I'm thinking the adjusting sleeve maybe aftermarket for the 6" lift i know that they can have too much play and sway just by twisting them with your hand
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what steering arm did you end up putting on there? in the pic above is that the steering arm with 6" lift? what about the adjusting sleeve? the one in the pic looks stock so I'm thinking the adjusting sleeve maybe aftermarket for the 6" lift i know that they can have too much play and sway just by twisting them with your hand
Those are all stock pieces in the pics.
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Yep..Stock Pitman and Steering arm. I changed the outer Tie Rods and Drag Link. A new steering arm is in the near future though. I noticed the Steering pump is missing a Bracket on the far right side where it should bolt to the head, so this weekend I'm hoping to make a junk yard run and pick up some parts. I still can't find the passenger side "U"bolt that goes up against the Differential.
Rob,,
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Keep us updated. You should be able to find that other U bolt as well. Although, you never know what kind of condition it is in, since it is used. I might spend the extra effort and find a new one.
What is that bailing wire? Looks like it is coming off the sway bar.
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so what was put on to make up for the 6" lift?
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The Wire is for the clutch return spring. I cant get through my headers to get over on the frame. I would like to fab up a brace and bolt it on, it doesn't look the best but it works real well.
The "U"Bolts that are there are plenty long and I guess came with the kit. The previous owner might have used the one missing on another project. I still have a lot of work left on her, but she will be a sweet ride in the end.
Rob..
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Can anyone tell from the pic above, if that is a 2wd Steering gear box or a 4wd?
Thanks
Rob..
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4x4 box. The move from to back to turn, 2WD boxes are left to right.
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Thanks capt" I learn something new here everyday!
Rob..
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Irish..It's a standard Drag Link. It's pivoting inside the bushing to make up the angle difference. I need a new steering arm in a bad way! but dang at $92 bucks, that could be a new gas tank or a fender.
I need more parts than I have money..LOL..she'll come together one piece at a time, and then maybe I will have a spot on the next calender!
Rob..
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i understand its pivoting but isn't that maxing it out? or is that why your saying you need a new steering arm?
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I still have plenty of threads left inside the adjusting sleeve. I need the new steering arm to take away some of the angle on the Ball and Stud. Vile posted a link for a Offset Draglink, It would be and easier fix than doing the steering arm. The price is a little higher than the new Arm, but would probably save me a few gray hairs..LOL
Rob..
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You will actually kill two birds because 1) your decreasing some of the angles that the lift added, and 2) your replacing the drag link anyways because the joints are worn. BUT I see you already replaced the drag link....
Swapping out the steering arm isn't all that bad. I just did it this past weekend. I kept it soaked in PB on Saturday as I was cleaning out the insides of the front fenders and on Sunday, the steering arm popped right off.
If you haven't done so and need to, you can swap out the pitman arm for a dropped pitman arm and that will take out some of the angles.