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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: Ole Blacky on April 05, 2010, 06:56:45 pm

Title: Rocker pannels
Post by: Ole Blacky on April 05, 2010, 06:56:45 pm
I'm gettin ready to weld in some rockers in my new cab. Do I need to do any bracing to the cab before I cut them out. Any other info would be appriciated thanks.
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: Jesse Walter on April 05, 2010, 07:20:23 pm
I just cut the rockers off of mine a couple weeks ago.  I didnt have to do any bracing.  But I think it depends on your cab supports. 
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: Ole Blacky on April 05, 2010, 09:04:06 pm
Well on the new cab to supports are rock solid so I'm guessing it will be ok to just cut them out then?
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: jaredts on April 06, 2010, 06:08:16 am
If your floor support is good, you might get away with it, but I usually see the door pillar supported when cutting out a rocker--even just a section of rocker.  Haven't done body work on a daily basis in a long time though, so maybe I'm not remembering correctly.  I would at least throw a 2 x 4 under the door hinge for most of the repair, but wouldn't be afraid to take it out from time to time to get things in place.
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: Blazin on April 06, 2010, 09:26:05 pm
I have never braced them off. If they are that bad that the door pillar is going to move you will need it free to reposition it in the correct place anyway.
Check this out, little follow along with one of my customers, and another members cab repairs.

http://forum.73-87chevytrucks.com/smforum/index.php?topic=5661.0
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: Ole Blacky on April 06, 2010, 10:24:01 pm
Ok thanks guys I was just not sure cause the cab is not on a frame at the moment
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: Blazin on April 06, 2010, 11:01:00 pm
Just fixed my post, must have forgotten to paste the page in!
Title: Re: Rocker pannels
Post by: HAULIN IT on April 07, 2010, 12:44:40 am
If I'm removing the floor & gutter area, I weld a piece across the opening on the inside of the pinchweld, just below the "bulge" area on the door (hidden by the '77-up trim panel, not on the '73-6), this way you can close the door to check fitment. As Blazin' mentioned, the cowl is often back/down if the floor area is weak. A port-a-power or similar jacking tool may be needed, then install the brace.
 As allways...Start by mounting the door your going to use along with good hinges before you start to weld. Lorne