73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Members Rides => Topic started by: stavendirtbike on June 01, 2010, 12:05:22 am
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Time to get down to the nitty gritty! I've had this 87 Silverado for almost 4 years now. Always wanted a square body, better yet, would have loved one to be black, Silverado package, short wheel base, FUEL INJECTED. I found EXACTLY the truck I wanted 5 minutes down the road. One owner, ran and still runs great, but even then, rust was appearing but it was still very presentable.
Fast forward a few years and the Rust Belt New England has really taken it's tole on the old truck. Once again, I found an offer I couldn't refuse. Locally, a rust free short wheel base bed, WITH the dual tank openings, $300. SOLD. Had to fill a few dents but very solid.
Picked that bed up 2 years ago. Didn't have the time (in 2 years!) to tackle the project, atleast the rear of the truck. Last year I did hang 2 new fenders, a door, new rocker.
After working on the front half of the truck, I went off to Basic Training for the Air Force. Came back a few weeks ago ready to hit this project full force. Shelled out the money for the Western Chassis 4/6 kit.
So, here are the plans. Bed is now off the truck. Back half, as you can see, pretty rusty. Very back of the frame ends need work. My father is a great welder and knows structure work, we can fix that. Also, there is one section of the frame, I included the photo, where you can see how it thins out! Once again, some strengthening we can do. The c-notches should also help strengthen the area.
I'm going to sand down the frame, apply Zero Rust which has worked great for me in the past. Cab corners I need to do. The passenger tank leaks, I don't need 2 at this time with the cost of Fuel so I'm going to remove it and cap the lines. The driver's tank I replaced last year.
Front half of the frame, and underneath the cab is solid. I posted a topic before about what I found in Texas while away for the Air Force. You non-rust belt states don't know how lucky you are! Square bodies galore down there..... not a darn spec of rust!
Oh, also, sadly, while removing the old bed. My buddies at the front, not paying attention, smash BOTH the darn corner moldings! Yes, I know how expensive these are! Hopefully I can find something at the pick/pull or ebay. Do these pop right off?
OOPS! (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5707.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5708.jpg)
Thin Metal (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5710.jpg)
Some structure work needed here:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5709.jpg)
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Oops meant to put this in Members Projects since I will be updating as I move along. Moderators maybe you can move this?
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it goes here, Members projects are for small projects not full restores.
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You did put it in there so I moved it here. Where are you from Stave?
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I'm from East Haven, good to see a fellow Connecticut here..... unless you can understand some of the rust you see!
Tackled a few things today. I removed the leaking passenger side tank. All the brackets and filler tube are rotted as well. I am not replacing this tank, I don't drive far with the price of cost.... one 16 gallon works fine for me. I did cap the lines though in case later on a new tank is added.
I also replaced the driver's side front cab bushing under the floor board. I replaced all the other cab bushings last year except this one since it looked OK then.... as you can see, it no longer does. Luckily though, the bolt on that cab bushing actually came out. All the other's I did, the bolt snapped from rot, and I had to access the other half from inside the truck..... removing the carpet and cutting access holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5715.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5713.jpg)
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Just another reason why I love the california;D
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Just another reason why I love the california;D
Well, about the only good reason...Them people in Sac dont know what they are doing.
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Had a bad experience today. As I rebuild the Silverado, I have a 1992 s10 blazer that I am driving. 4.3 TBI. We use it in the winter to plow the driveway with, and basically just a fall to vehicle if something breaks down.
Well, I have the trailer hooked up to the blazer WITH my silverado bed on it, heading to the scrap yard. I roll up to a light, busy intersection 2 lanes, stalls. Cranks but no start. Great, stuck in the middle of traffic at noon time, and I also FORGOT to grab my cell phone (of course when you actually NEED a phone). A nice woman let me use hers.
Get the blazer towed home and my father was able to hook the trailer up to his Yukon.
Now yesterday, before all this happened, I had the blazer idling in my driveway, and it stalled out. Same scenario as today (atleast in my driveway though). First thing I did was spray starting fluid in the TBI. It fired right up and continued to run fine no problem. Well sadly if I had starting fluid on me today, I would have been out of that intersection because when we towed it home, I sprayed starting fluid in it and it now runs fine, I even drove it to the store today!
I checked fuel pressure at the TBI, we have 13 which is perfect. I did fill up the tank yesterday before these two stalling situations...... I'm thinking bad gas. I put a new fuel filter on today as well just incase.
I'll have to try again tomarrow! This time I will have starting fluid with me. Any suggestions or ideas why it would be doing this?
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Does it all of a sudden shut off, or does it bog down before it dies?
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Does it all of a sudden shut off, or does it bog down before it dies?
Suddenly shut off. Yesterday it just died. Today I was braking to the stop light and it died. I did some trial and error today like Idling with AC on, lights on, in drive, foot on brakes, didn't stall.
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I'm thinking fuel pump. Even though fuel pressure is o.k. the pump may be stalling from time to time. Eventually you'll be able to figure it out. Unfortunately its usually after the intermittent problem becomes a constant one.
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Made it to the scrap yard today! Made $32 on that old rusted bed. Blazer has been driving fine. I think I got some crappy gas or maybe something in the tank was disturbed and clogged the filter up. No problems since.
Won't be around this weekend. Next week I plan on tackling the rear suspension, flip kit, shackles, c-notch. I'm going to have to get U-bolts made at the local suspension shop since the ones that come in the Western Chassis kit aren't even the right size. I've heard of this before, I wonder why WC or Sport Truck Direct has not caught on. I'm going to call up STD and let them know but from what I've heard here.... they couldn't care less. I don't see contact info for WC.
Hopefully all those old rusty bolts break free..... or literally break. I may have to get new leaf spring bushings, I'll determine that when it's apart.
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I dont think its the fuel pump if starter fluid is the only way it will start again.
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It could definitely be the fuel pump. When it dies next time smack the bottom of the tank a few times and see if it fires up. What I do with an intermittent no start is I hook up my lab scope to the fuel pump. I doubt you have a lab scope so I won't get into details but if you are interested there's lots of how to videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEdMhfbw69M
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Thank you vile for the link. Well, I thought I was home free with the blazer.... well I was, it made it to the scrap yard and back!
Later on today, I went to the bank, pulled out of the bank lot, died. Same darn thing, sprayed starting fluid down TBI.... and home I went. I decided to do some joy riding close to home and see what happens. It died again at a stop sign. Drove it around for quite awhile after that and stopped at a store. This time, the blazer would not initially start. All the other times, it was running and stalled. Popped the hood, starter fluid, home I went.
I will have to try the smacking the bottom of the tank. I guess I should also test pressure while the engine is under somewhat of a load (ac on, in gear). I was also told to have the ignition module tested since it sends a signal for injector fire? I was also told to check the pump relay and oil pressure switch. I'm going to have to start driving another vehicle around though because this is becoming quite an embarassment out there on the roads and very unsafe stalling at busy intersections!
I would really like to get one of the Actron GM TBI fuel pressure testers that I believe hook up near the TBI area. The tester I have, requires you to remove the fuel filter, get sprayed in gasoline, and then usually one of the darn o-rings start to leak. When I was under the truck yesterday testing though, it did show 13 running.
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Does the check engine light come on or any codes?
also check the o2 lines make sure they haven't melted or chafed seams like a problem I think also in the tank between the fuel pump and outlet is a rubber hose that sometimes brakes and will cause low fuel pressure don't think its a problem but it could be. Seams like to me the pump is working OK just something it telling it to shut off. My brother’s blazer kind of did that sometimes it would just die we would have to sit for a couple min and it would start right back up. I still don't think he fixed it lol been a couple years
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Ended up doing some testing and so on and the Ignition Module was the culprit. Fuel pump was putting out proper pressures at all times. The ignition module was not sending reference pulses back to the ECM to allow for injector spray of fuel. So far so good, no stalling!
Will be tackling the flip kit/shackles this week! Stand by for results
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I was able to free the rear from the truck yesterday. The shocks came off easily, but as you can see in one of the photos here, someone welded in a washer on the bottom shock mount. I remember seeing a post or two, here, about these bottom shock mounts either breaking, or rusting out. Seems like a pretty strong weld, but I'll know where to look if my truck starts riding funny.
Next came removal of the u-bolts. These weren't budging at all. Applied some heat to the bolts/nuts and off they came! My father was convinced the leafspring eyelet bolts would not come out. Well the first one I attempted to remove came right off. I was so thrilled. Well, unfortunately that was the only leafspring bolt that came out. All the others, I had to cut. I included photos of what it looks like. I'm going to have to get them pressed out and order new bushings. Leafsprings are rusty but I see no need in replacing the entire springs.
I also removed the factory bumpstops. And cut the tailpipes since they won't clear the rear when it's flipped. I'm debating on keeping the tailpipes I have and just adapting to them, or, running new piping, mufflers back, and dumping them over the rear.
I'm at a standstill for now until I order the leafspring bushings. Once I get them pressed in, I can install the flip kit, and lowering shackles as well as the c-notch!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5732.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5729.jpg)
The only bolt that came out! (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5730.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5731.jpg)
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Today, I got those old leaf spring bushings out. I ordered the Energy Suspension leaf spring/shackle kit. They bushings went in perfect, great quality. I have extra bushings for the shackles since the Western Chassis drop shackles already came with bushings.
As I stated, only 1 darn leaf spring bolt came out, all the others I had to cut, so tomorrow, I will match up new bolts.
Tomorrow I will attempt to re-assemble..... this time lowered 6''!!! WooWoo!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5733.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5734.jpg)
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You should paint the leaves while they're out. Lookin good
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Will be doing that early tomorrow with Zero Rust!
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Finally got around to installing the Western Chassis flip kit and drop shackles. In my post under "Projects/Builds, you will see I had to cut all the leaf spring eye bolts off, there fore I installed all new Energy Suspension bushings and grade 8 bolts.
I also got the Doetsch Nitro Slammer shocks with the kit since Sport Truck Direct seems to praise them. Well after reading some reviews here..... I wish I passed. Oh well, I'll have to see how they ride.
On the new WC Shackles, the bushing sleeve was too long. It would not allow install into the rear hanger, so, I shaved some of the sleeve off and they went in fine.
The flip brackets fit great. The supplied u-bolts are bigger than the axle tube, a bit too wide. I started a post a few weeks back about this on 67-72chevytrucks.com, and there was quite a bit of debate. I ended up using them. I did a test run around the neighborhood, and nothing came loose or shifted. I will re-torque tomorrow. If I were running a blown big block pushing serious HP, I would 100% opt for better fitting u-bolts.
I had some confusion about the bottom retaining plate. There are two holes on the western chassis plate, a center and an off center hole close to each other. The instuctions state: "Install the new u-bolts over the top of the axle and the retaining plate onto the bottom of the spring pack. The offset center pin hole should be forward to match with the leaf spring center pin".I test fitted it in the center hole and it didn't seem right. Fit much better on the offset hole. All the ubolts are spaced evenly, everything seems fine.
Also, WC instructions state to install the bottom shock bolts inwards. Well, as another member told me, this isn't too practical as it would require you to remove the flip kit brackets/ u-bolts to change shocks. So, I cheated an installed them outwards. The passenger side shock, since it's placed on the back side of the axle, needed some "adjustment". I had to shave down the shock nut, so I could slide the bolt through and tighten. All is good though!
When I lowered it back to the ground on the wheels, I couldn't believe how low it is. The spare tire is almost on the ground, well that could also be because of the front not being lowered yet.
The driveshaft angle is better than stock!
It was a nice feeling stepping into the truck with rockers/floor boards closer to earth And the front isn't even dropped yet!
I took it for a test ride around the neighborhood. Felt fine, even did a holeshot to make sure everything was tight In the pics, you will see the tailpipes hanging down extremely low. They are cut, just dangling there. I had to cut them due to the drop. What a difference in sound w/o tailpipes! I plan to dump the exhaust directly over the rear.
I notice the driver side Doetsch shock, makes an air swooshing noise when the suspension is compressed...... maybe this is one of the reasons for the poor reviews? I sure hope they aren't already blown! Is that what the air noise indicates?
All in all, it was a good experience. It wasn't just buy the kit and go. At least for me. To sum it up, I needed all new leaf spring/shackle bolts and bushings, had to shave the WC shackle sleeves, and had to modify the shock bolts to install.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5739.jpg)
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Install went great. With the use of an air grinder and sawzall, I was able to cut away quickly and neat. Took awhile to drill the holes. Passenger side brake line had to be moved out of the way but very minor. Funny how the bump stop takes up most of the c-notch clearance, I doubt the axle will get that close anyways but if I lowered it more, I would probably need a smaller bump stop.
I like how this notch is thick and wraps around the top of the frame. I applied zero rust of the frame area before putting the notch on. Looks like the notch plate will actually strengthen that thin area of the frame.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5743.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5742.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5744.jpg)
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I'm making a C-notch this week myself. So are you painting the whole frame?
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I'm making a C-notch this week myself. So are you painting the whole frame?
Absolutely! I will be getting to that tomorrow. Zero Rust the frame along with undercoating. After that, here is what's left:
-Front Suspension Drop via spindles/springs along with a replacement UCA that rotted out.
-Cab Corners
-Tailgate needs a tiny bit of rust repair on the bottom.
-Put the bed in primer along with all the repaired areas (cab corners, rockers, door, fenders, almost entire truck)
- Prep for paint, scuff up the non-repaired areas, strip down the truck of bumpers, lights, moldings etc
- Send to Maaco. Yes yes I know, but my father did a c10 over years ago. Had it painted a different color as well. As long as YOU prep it, the maaco paint isn't bad! Plus, it's a Daily Driver, not looking for perfection.
-Re-assemble/drive!
My goal is to complete by mid-July. I leave for Air Force training at the end of August so atleast that will give me a solid month of enjoyment before going away for 6 months. I'd like to get a car tent to protect it from the elements while I am away.
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Painted the frame and axle today with Zero Rust. I left the ends of the frame un-painted since I have to repair those sections. Any ideas for spare tire relocation? It's not safe keeping it underneath with the truck this low. I guess my only options are to carry it in the bed or not at all.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5747.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5746.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5745.jpg)
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Nice progress and it looks much better. I would say carry it in the bed or keep fix a flat and get AAA
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If you keep it in the bed, make sure you lock it up some how so no one rolls away with it.
But if you leave it at home, as well as the jack and lug nut wrench, you'll gain 5 HP. jk
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Why is it not safe running it that low? I would put it back under the truck.
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Why is it not safe running it that low? I would put it back under the truck.
That thing is slung LOW! No way I'm running that. A dip in the road and scrapeeee. Any weight I put in the bed and that thing is dragging.
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Protect the tire with those metal plates mini trucks use to scrape down the freeway!
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I'm happy with the results! I am no expert at body work.... at all. In fact, I would much rather swap out an engine than do cab corners again I've never done body work before, but after owning this Chevy, that ended. It takes lots of patience and it ain't PERFECT, but it's presentable and daily driver proof!
I cut the cab corners to fit, I'm not sure of the brand, I bought them from a local, but they had Made in USA stickers on them and they were pretty darn durable and fit well. Yes, I painted the underside of the cab corners before welding them in, to help with rust resistance.
In some of the pics, they look wierd because the primer was still drying when I snapped the pics.
Also, the top of the frame ends on this truck were very thin and bent up from trying to remove the old rusted bed bolts. I welded in new pieces.
While I was sanding a cab corner, I heard a bang, and my exhaust fell to the ground! It rotted away right there, lol, better in the garage than on the road I guess.
Also, I removed the new shocks I installed on the rear, and installed them correctly. I'm surprised no one caught that in the photos I posted of my flip-kit install. Today I realized they were upside down.
Project is coming along nicely! I hope to put on my new bed this weekend since the back half of the truck is finished. Just waiting on my darn Western Chassis 1.5'' coils from Sport Truck Direct that have been on back-order for over a month now. Once they come in, I will start on the front.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5755.jpg)
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When I was working on the cab corners, my exhaust system decided to "speak to me"...... while the engine wasn't running. It sounded like a BANG. The left side exhaust was sitting on the ground. It broke at one of the rear hangers. I was planning on dumping the pipes over the rear-end but I decided to just fix it now. I added new hangers, and dumped it in front of the rear. It's respectable and it's hidden which is nice. Sounds deeper now but the Dynomax Super Turbos are relatively quiet, no drone even dumped, I like that compared to my Flowmaster days! I heard the super turbos are one of the better flowing mufflers too.
I also grinded away the rot from the bottom lip of my tailgate. I applied Zero Rust to the back side and this weekend I plan on welding and filling in the rotted holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5763.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5760.jpg)
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Bought this bed 2 years ago and finally got it mounted. As you can see, the western chassis flip kit and lowering shackles brought the back down nicely Unfortunately, I have been waiting over a month, and still waiting, for the front coils from Sport Truck Direct. I'm going to have a chat with them tomorrow about shipping them with quicker than Ground service. I shouldn't have to wait another dang week to have them shipped when they never told me upfront I would have to wait over a month for them. Getting a bit rediculous.
Just have to finish up some minor body work on this bed, hook up my filler neck, light harness, apply do-it-yourself bedliner, and shoot with primer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5764.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5765.jpg)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v226/stavendirtbike/DSCF5768.jpg)
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Hey there guys....
Truck is coming along great... I also have an 87 with alot of the same issues that you have... body rust.... I have to replace the cab corners the rockers on the drivers side etc... hopefully by next spring it will be ready for paint... it's also a driver maybe not daily but a few times a week..
Question... can you tell me how you cut out the drivers cab corner and replaced it with the gas tank still in place.. and I dont mean was it in the way.. im asking... was it safe to weld that close to a gas tank?? Did you cover it with a welding blanket etc..... I have enough confidence in my abilities that i can tackle replacing the rockers etc..... but i figured you had to remove the gas tank for safety...
Thanks
Mike
Truck looks great keep it up......
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I would think that covering it up with a blanket should be fine, IMO.
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I covered it with a wet rag. Just have to be cautious around it IE not hitting the gas tank accidently with an air grinder.