73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => 73-87 Chevy & GMC Trucks => Topic started by: 4x4orbust on July 05, 2010, 03:43:23 pm
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I put a coupe days aside this weekend to get the paint finished on my woods/plow/fun truck. with that being said, you can tell a lot of it is not in pristine condition, and i wanted it that way (now it won't hurt so bad when it gets scratched/dented doing a firewood run, or on the plow route).
I had to replace the usual rust spots (cab corners, rockers, floors, rear arches, hood, doors, front lowers, windshield, tailgate, whatever else i'm forgetting) and it was my first time ever doing any bodywork, i think it came out just fine.
it has been a while coming, and i am excited that it is once again (mostly) one color. I left the top the original tan, as it was not beat up too much, and i kinda like it anyway. on to the pics!!
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0984.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0985.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0983.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0982.jpg)
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That two tone isnt bad at all!
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I like it!
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Looks good. What are the details on the paint job? Is it basecoat/clearcoat or single stage? Did you spray it in the garage or driveway?. Anything you would do different next time around?
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the paint is an interesting story. at first i used this color paint out of a spray paint can to cover some primer i had laid (also spray paint) on the front fenders. i looked at it, liked it, and went out and bought a bunch of cans of rust converter, primer, and paint and went to town this past weekend.
Sanded a lot of the body to bare metal, repaired any rust spots (mostly with metal), bondo'ed them in, hit it with rust converter as a base, primered over that, and then painted (2 coats) on top of that. all with spray paint, (rustoleum). i kinda wanted to show it could be done and look good.
:flame on:
done in the garage, with a plastic sheet seperating the two bays, and 2 big fans in the windows, and garage door open 6 inches or so, nice cross draft!! next time around, i would probably invest in a spray system and do it the right way.
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I think it came out great!
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Nobody can say anything bad about that paint job!!! WOW all that with a spray can, congrats it looks great!!!
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You set out to make a good looking work truck/4 wheeler and you certainly achieved your goal. The local Maaco near me in Mass gets $700 to do a quick paint job on a pick up, so spray cans is not a bad alternative.
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I think the color choice helps hide a can paint job. I didnt even know it was can. Looks darn good!
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The thing I loved about my spray can job on my first truck was when I skint it up, I had an extra can of matching paint on hand all the time, so I'd wipe it off and spray the scratches.... people always wanted to know how I was skinnin up my paint all the time but it didnt have a scratch on it....ha Mine didnt look near that good though.
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That looks awesome, and it will be easy to touch up. Kudos for leaving the scars on it; I plan to do the same with mine.
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That looks great and I honestly couldn't tell it was from a spray can. Nice work.
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thanks for the compliments! i wasn't sure how the final product was going to come out, but taking your time while spraying helps. I was nervous when i started!!..
I did 2 coats, in different directions (1st coat left to right, 2nd coat top to bottom) helped me keep track of where the spray line was. i have no idea how long it will hold up, hopefully for a few years. gonna have to get a couple good coats of wax on it this week sometime!!!
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Looks good. As far as wax I would wait at least 30 days. Dry paint is not the same as cured paint. If you put wax over uncured paint it can tend to cause problems.
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thanks blazin, i didnt know that! what kind of problems are we talking about? i haven't dont it yet, just curious...
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I have never seen it because I have never done it, but I have heard it could create pinholes in the pain, and moister can get below it. Otherwise known as solvent pop. Might not be as crucial with spray bomb. But no need taking the chance?
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Nice job! I'm constantly convincing myself not to go the same route. I've got two voices in my head, one telling me its just an old truck and rust-oleum is good enough and the other saying I've worked too hard on this thing to settle for that. Seeing how yours turned out makes it even harder on me! I hope you update this forum after some time so we know how well it holds up.
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Looks good man! How much $$$ do you think you have in buying the rattle cans? Seems like you'd have to buy quite a few to do a whole vehicle.
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i bought 15 cans of rustoleum auto paint, 10 cans of rust converter, and 10 cans of primer. cost about $4 per can, so thats ~$140. i have 3 cans of rustoleum left, 2 cans of rust converter, and 2 cans of primer left, so thats ~$30 in returns, so about $110 total in the paint alone. plus 1 small can of bondo, and sandpaper to sand off the old paint (about 40 peices on my DA) all is said and done i figure i have about 175 into it total.
I actually thought that i was going to have to buy double what i did buy to do the truck, even with 2 coats on it all, it didnt use as much as i thought!! each fender was 1 can, the hood was about 2, tailgate was 1 can, and the doors/cab/bedsides was ~2.5 per side. i know i used 12 cans total, so that is an estimate.
for a long time i was convincing myself not to spray paint this truck, and i'm not so sure why i did in the end, but the only thing that keeps popping in my head was because it was relatively cheap, and to prove it could be done and look good. and it settled a bet i had with a buddy, so the winnings helped pay for some of the paint.... ;D
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for that kinda cash you could have bought a gallon of paint and done it right, or used duplicolor paint shop. If not or you didn't have the gun I would have bought the spray cans of automotive paint mixed into the can by your local auto body supply store, they cost about $20 a can but it's the same stuff you spray from your gun and turns out great right out of the can, you can sand and buff it and everything. I use it all the time and love it when you don't have time or cash for a gallon or quart.
I paint all my junk outside too, don't know how many whole vehicles I've done out there, I wished I had a garage to do it in lol.
I aint knocking ya though poor boys got poor ways IMo I painted my hood scoop and cab visor for my 88 with rylon spray paint and it turned out good. Spray paint just doesn't hold up to well in the sun IMO, my scoop is looking dull and I take care of it like a normal paint job. if I had the cash I would have got the spray cans from the body shop supply for sure, and will if they ever need done again.
As for the body shop spray cans we done an s-10 bed 4 coats per side took 1-2 cans total. I think it was only one but not sure.
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I know primer is porous, but how about rattle can paint?
4x4, do you plan on clearing it, or will wax apply to that layer?
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for that kinda cash you could have bought a gallon of paint and done it right, or used duplicolor paint shop.
As far as $175 paint jobs go I say he did do it right. Don't forget that that price includes the paint, primer, rust converter, sandpaper, and even the Bondo.
Sounds like he was realistic with his goals from the start, which was to put together a presentable work truck. To me it looks like he achieved his goal.
As far as Duplicolor goes it does look like an interesting option, but I think it would cost more $$. Around here that sells for $30 a quart. From reading previous posts it sounds like most people agree it takes about 1 gallon of paint to do one of our trucks. That would be $120 for the paint alone. Add in the clearcoat, primer, rust converter, sandpaper/bondo and I bet your looking at about $250+ for materials plus more $$ for a spray gun.
Keep in mind that this is his work truck/4 wheeler. There is lots to be said for having a can of touch up paint in the glovebox that you know will match perfectly.
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Not to mention Duplicolor products stink! My 55 was spray bomb for years before I did a 60 / 60 paint job on it with OMNI single stage.
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I didn't ay it didn't look good or turn out good.
well as I said auto paint in spray cans from the body shp supply go along way, I'd say about 4 cans maybe 5 would do it, and they are $20 a can, plus he'd have a can of touch up in the glovebox that'd match perfect and get ANY color known to man. sandpaper and what not can be had cheap depending on where you get it, plus bondo and primer, you could still use cheap stuff or skip to self etching primer and not worry about rust convertor and all that stuff, just rust convert and prime in one step one can, about $7 a can. if the spray can holds up well then yea it's good but I got junk on my truck that's rattle can'd and it's a work truck and it's dull now, ones been on a year, the other is fresh and still looks good, only a month or so old. The auto spray can last as long as a reg. spray gun job. I'm just trying to let ppl know there's mid point between rattle can(and cheapo stuff at that, not really rustoleum or something) and full on paint from the gun which is more. Most ppl have no clue you can buy reg. spray gun paint mixed in cans.
now fyi, I bought a can of adhesion promoter(bulldog expensive junk like $13 a can) 2 yes 2 gallons of limco single stage, gallon of reducer, gloss hardner, flex agent, 3m flexible repair compound(which is about $35 itself)pack of wet sand 600 grit, and some other stuff for my monte carlo ss for like $210. I know there was 2 rolls of tape in with it, not sure what else I'm thinking a box of 220 da paper but can't remember.
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I know primer is porous, but how about rattle can paint?
4x4, do you plan on clearing it, or will wax apply to that layer?
as per blazin's suggestion, i am going to wait a while, then give it a good couple coats of wax and hope it lasts a little while.
i know there are many other options for painting a vehicle, but Fitz hit the nail on the head. it is a work/fun truck, not a show truck. the paint was nothing more than to make it all one color, and protect the body work i have done. I hope this will help others decide what to do to their truck when it comes time to paint, because my suggestion would more than likely not be a spray paint job. it works for me, but may not for others. also, i may have gotten lucky with this paint job, or patient, and it came out better than most would. i don't know.
also, as a side note, the front fenders and hood were painted last june (1 year ago) and the paint still looks pretty good. this past weekend all i did was from the doors back. so for the 1 year of the sun beating on it, and the winter plowing, and the firewood runs, i think it held up just fine. thats another reason i decided to paint the rest of the truck with it.
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getting that bare metal protected is the no. 1 thing for sure. The 84 c10 I did had some bare metal spots that I primered with rustoleum auto primer, that stuff is pure junk, after the good spray gun limco single stage paint job a year later everywhere that was bare metal got primed with that stuff, and everywhere that was primered is showing rust now. I'll never use that crap again, as for primer for bondo or something yea it's ok but for bare metal that rustoleum auto primer sucks, it does not protect or stop rust if anything it makes it start.
The mcss I done in the same paint, same color even, it had the bad spider cracked trunk paint, and had rust under it, it wouldn't come off from sanding, I painted right over it and the rest was bare metal with selfetching primer, and it has never shown not even one spec of rust and has been almost 4-5 years ago and has sat outside the whole time in everything.
I'd highly recomend the self etching primer to anyone.
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One thing to remember about the automotive paint in the spray can is it still does not have a catalyst. If its better than off the shelf spray bomb its on marginally better. Self etching primer is for clean bare metal yes, but not recommended over any rust or old paint. As far as spray bomb primers go it doesn't matter what brand it is, it is basically talcum powder with a solvent that evaporates out after its sprayed. The same goes for lacquer based primers that are mixed with lacquer thinner, and sprayed out of a gun. They have zero rust inhibitors, and zero bithing / etching capacity.
As far as what you were after, I think it looks great. I have nothing against spray bombs, and prepped correctly, they can look good with allot less mess. I am a body man by trade so I have allot of sand paper, body filler, tape, solvents, and primers sitting around all the time. To me the cost is not as great because I usually have enough of everything to do what I need, and only have to buy the paint.
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you mean a hardner? umm yea they have em with hardner in them now in spray cans, and catylist or not they hold up way better I mean waaaayyyyy better then normal aersol, we had an s-10 had the bedsides, doors, fender flares, bumper cover, all the accessories painted with it and they lasted for years and looked just as good as the factory paintjob from gm. I have NEVER had anything else last that long and look that good except for spray gun stuff.
I too am a body man by trade and huge hobby, and love doing it. I used the etching primer over paint, and over rust, didn't have a problem. Like I said the car is at my in laws and still looks as good as the day I painted it, no rust, no flaking nothing.
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As you can tell I love the stuff, used it for years and it's the mid point for me between spray cans from wallyworld for a quick and cheap fix on something that doesn't matter much, to a full on finish I want to look good for years, spray gun, wet sand and buff to perfection. I know it's not too cheap but way worth it, esp. if the neighbors complain about spray guns and fumes.
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The glass ball inside the can. I have used them, my opinion still not as good.
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Any more pictures?
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sure thing! just took these about 15 minutes ago. it's a little dirty from the rain last night.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0991.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0992.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0993.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0994.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0995.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_0996.jpg)
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Your rain is dirty? ???
Great pics!
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isn't all rain dirty? ;D
forgot about a before pic...
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/82k-10002.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/82k-10004.jpg)
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wow thats the same truck, looks good
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I like the tube grille better before. I like chrome but once tyhem things rust, it's pretty much done for.
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I really like that color and the two tone roof just sets it off perfectly. I think you've got a really good looking truck.
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Great improvement! Looks like a different unit! I may just get out the ole shake and shoot on mine!
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i liked the tube grills before as well, but the rust was getting to them, so just to get me by untill i found a suitable replacement i sprayed it. thanks again for all the compliments!
also was looking for some input from all you... I have the idea in my head to put some sort of protector on the bottom 12" of the truck, to protect from road dings and such, any ideas? i was thinking some sort of bedliner, but i would want it to be tan like the roof is. maybe just layer on a bunch of tan spray paint? a few coats of clear coat? any ideas????
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clear stone guard stuff that sticks on to protect, that bedliner crap ANYWHERE on the body other then the bed or underside that you don't see sucks IMO. They got some clear stick on kind and maybe spray on to help protect, if not then maybe look into mudlfaps front and rear they help alot.
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Here's another stick-on product. 3M
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=At5qvqz1XWI
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well your efforts sure smarten the ole girl up and less likely to be pulled by the local officer!
As for the spraycan vs paint gun debate > I see it as horses for courses! The costings may be similar but if you can't use/set up a spray gun you'll lose more than ya use! Then all the runs etc. Spraycan is more user friendly for starters and I think it shows a tidy job.
nice one!
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yea and just as I said you can buy reg. spray gun paint that comes in gallons or quarts mixed in a spray can to use and have the best of both worlds.
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Any techniques besides just using a regular spray can?
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A coworker just painted his truck with rustoleum. He bought a gallon and a $17 wagner sprayer knockoff from Harbor Freight. Looks good from 10 feet away. Up close its pretty rough. I wonder if a turbine airless sprayer would do o.k.? Lowes has one for $100 that says it can shoot urethanes (Graco brand). I probably won't try it but I'm dying to see what can be done as a small step up from rattle can.
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I heard of people painting vehicles with the small urathene rollers.
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I think it looks great buddy!
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thanks!! still holding up good, already has a few scratches. gonna have to get some wax on soon!!
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did you put any kind of clear on after you spray painted it or did the paint just show up that shiny..looks real good
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well he probably used gloss spray paint which is supposed to come out shiney all the time, and does if you spray it right.
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well he probably used gloss spray paint which is supposed to come out shiney all the time, and does if you spray it right.
exactly what i used. when spraying, spray at an angle to the metal, not straight on. spreads the spray fan out a little
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One time I was goofing around with an inner fender I had and painted it with low gloss black. I had bought a bottle of some stuff from Wally World made by Kit. I think it was called Scratch Ex or Scratch Out. Anyway, it was a scratch remover. It comes in a yellow bottle. After a few days of drying time I went over the fender with it not expecting much. I could not believe how smooth and shinny it turned out. And that was over low gloss paint.
You might try some of that on an inconspicuous spot before you do the wax thing. Just thinking...
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well as far as that goes you can wetsand and buff, using rubbing compound, machine polish, then hand glaze and/or swirl remover followed by wax, alot of work but talk about shine, you'll get show car shine if done right. Not sure on how well it'll do on rattle cans though. I know the auto body supply mixed spray cans works great, since it's reg. spray gun paint in cans. You treat it as you would your reg. paint job.
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so any updates or new pics..is it still holding up and looking good?
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still holding up fine! i'm gonna wash and wax it this weekend, so i'll take some pics after and post em up.
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I still say you wound up with a really nice looking rig.
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cant wait to see the pics good looking truck
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i was able to wash her, but i didn't have a chance to wax it. gonna have to get to that sometime this week. anyway, it's been all summer and it's still holding it's shine!!
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_1098.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_1101.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn77/prfakaharry/woods%20shots/IMG_1100.jpg)