73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Brakes, Frame, Steering & Suspension => The Highs (Raising/Lifts) => Topic started by: BIG CHEVY on July 07, 2010, 07:47:52 pm
-
ok guys.....i know its dumb but if u dont ask, youll never know so...
how do lift kits work? i know u get a block in the back but is the front just leaf springs? i have a 4" lift block in back and
want to go just a tad higher. i could just get a bigger block in the back, but then i realized i was lost at the front. anybody up for this lesson?
i know its dumb but the search never gives me the answer. thanks guys.
-
The Front lift should always be done with springs, the rear can have blocks but nobody will recomend anything bigger than 4" with blocks. For these trucks you can buy the front and rear springs fairly cheap, so do it the right way first. Anything over 4" in the front will need some steering correction. Pitman Arms or spacers. If you want it to steer to the right at all.
-
so......more leafs in the rear and more in front? how many leafs make 2"? is there a formula or system? why never blocks front?
-
Do a dry park check of your steering, supsension and frame and see how much movement you already have. Now put a spacer in there and watch... It's a recipe for disaster.
All spring or nothing is all you will hear from anyone on here. I agree in the rear blocks are fine up to 4" lift.
-
I also heard 6 inch rear block is the most, anything over 4 is supposed to cause bad axle wrap. Now you can't stack blocks or not supposed to, you could do add a leafs which give you an inch to 2.5 lift. I don't know if you can do them in front or not I don't see why not.
blocks in the front are illegal everywhere as far as I know.
However, zero rates bolt to the spring pack and cannot come out as easy as a block would, so you may be able to use one up front not sure, it's only an inch though. You can use them in the back as well. You can do exteneded shakcles in the back and maybe front, but they might cause funky u joint to rearend and driveshaft angles, you can do hangers in the back the flip hangers.
As for steering mods we had to put on a raised arm for the rough country 4 inch we did. Anything more you may need longer brake lines, and say bar drops if you run one. I say add a leafs maybe but the increase the spring rate(stiffer ride) or buy some 6 inch springs or something, maybe buy a 6 inch kit and sell the 4.
-
With 6" lift you can keep your stock drive shaft. If you want to lift up to 6 sell your 4" after you buy a new 6" lift. I suggest going with springs front and rear, extended stainless steel brake lines if you don't have them. If you want you could keep your old shocks. Swaybar drop bracket and a new steering arm if you don't have one.
-
Lift kits work by having more arch to the spring, and the eye to eye distance stays the same.
I would not go over 4" blocks on the rear.
-
so......more leafs in the rear and more in front? how many leafs make 2"? is there a formula or system? why never blocks front?
First off.....do not add more spring to your existing ones. You get whole replacement leaf packs that have a higher arch to them to achieve a lift.
To be on the less expensive side of things, in the rear, take out the 4" block. Get a shackle flip, and a 2" block to achieve 6" total lift.
On the front, buy 6" lift springs. Remember all spring/lift kit companies have nice riding springs. You will probably need swaybar drop brackets, possibly extended brake lines, shocks all around the truck, and some sort of steering correction.
Now also if you are lifting to achieve much larger tires, you also have to take into consideration the gear ratios in your axles.
-
First off.....do not add more spring to your existing ones. You get whole replacement leaf packs that have a higher arch to them to achieve a lift.
why not add more? just because of the arched springs? They had more leafs added to the front of our 86 to level it out. Didn't hurt a thing.
Remember all spring/lift kit companies have nice riding springs.
yeah right, rough country's ride like a freaking goat wagon, stiff as crap, bash you to death.
-
This post reminded me of a guy in high school years ago lifted his truck the night before and didnt have u bolts long enough for the blocks he added. So he welded the blocks to the springs and tried to weld each spring. he went around a 90 degree corner and it all fell out it was hilarious.
-
Yeah well I have a not so funny story.... After I graduated high school a beautiful young sophomore my buddy was dating was pulling out onto the main rd after school in her toyota when along came redneck randy with his home made lift kit. He TRIED to stop but his axle twisted and he hit her and killed her on the spot.
-
It is soooo dangerous. Just please do them right.
-
First off.....do not add more spring to your existing ones. You get whole replacement leaf packs that have a higher arch to them to achieve a lift.
why not add more? just because of the arched springs? They had more leafs added to the front of our 86 to level it out. Didn't hurt a thing.
Remember all spring/lift kit companies have nice riding springs.
yeah right, rough country's ride like a freaking goat wagon, stiff as crap, bash you to death.
You don't just add more springs to the pack cause you are adding more stiffness to the pack. Unless they are custom packs with thinner leafs and lots of em.
As far as the lift companies having all nice riding springs....I meant to say "not all spring/lift companies" hence, shop and read on spring rates.....lol.
-
definately, and yes you can add springs to lift and yes it makes it stiffer for sure.
I think the only real easy riding springs would be tuff country ez ride or the soffrides from skyjacker or superlift whichever makes them.
-
tuff makes them but like said above I know guys who add leafs make there 1/2ton act like a 1 ton lol but with bigger tires that’s going to come with the territory
-
what exactly is a shackle flip? buy springs in a kit?
-
http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm