73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Body, Glass & Paint => Topic started by: 86gmc23 on July 17, 2010, 05:37:45 pm
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Well just came to the conclusion that I dont want to build my trucks 305, but instead wait to find a good 350. So for now I think I will start on the body/interior. Going to be needing to weld in some patch panels but dont have a welder yet. So I was wondering if I should get a product like Por15 on the bad spots now so they dont get worse?
This is my "new" baby, and also my first project I call "Project Resume" lol, so maybe one day I'll get into a custom shop =)
Also by the looks of this door do you think it would be better to replace or fix metal? (under tape is a rust hole)
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Replace it.
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Thats really what I was thinking. Will the cab corner patch panels work on this?
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cab corners will work perfect on that, cut out the rust, like an inch above the rust, and put in the new patch panel. As for the door yea, find another or buy a shell. I would coat the inside of things with something like por15. Like when you cut out the rusted cab corner, do the inside in it and maybe the backside of it just to help prevent further rust. The new piece does have edp primer and it helps alot itself.
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Was looking at the po15 website and they have alot of stuff. Which product would I use for that.
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the regular por15. topcoat is only for areas where sun can hit, they have the metal ready and something else marine clean or something for prep to do before you put it on.
There's alot of other products maybe cheaper that are about the same, like zero rust and miracle paint.
I personally have used por15 by itself no prep stuff, and zero rust same way, I think the por15 went further, I done the entier floor in my monte carlo with it and done the back frame of dad's 84 with zero rust and didn't have enough.
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Thats good. I'm still kinda lost on this project, just not knowing where to start. So me and my boy pulled bench seat out and the carpet to check for rust and it looks pretty solid. See some small patched spots on floor board but dont think its to bad.
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Is this the regular stuff your talking about?
http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/
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yea that's the stuff used in step 3 and it's what I used, man the price raised, I bought mine for like $35 a quart. Good to see you got help, I got started on a 76 truck with my dad back when I was 13, been at it ever since. SO almost 13 years for me and I've moved to me doing it all and him lending a hand or watching.
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Always wanted my dad to be into this stuff but never was. So soon as I came across this truck at this price I couldnt hold up. Plus my son loves working on my wifes mustang with me so now we have a real project to start together. He's 4 now so if this works out he'll have a good record lol
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If you were in my shoes with a tight budget starting a project where would you start? Engine deal isn't what I want so not worried about starting that until I find a good 350. I've been welding for last 5+ years and just got in a Firestone as a tech. Would like to start welding new metal in but dont have a welder yet so that will have to wait. Was thinking of stopping all rust from spreading any more, already removed bench seat so maybe clean inside to seal/sound proof.
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Has anyone installed this (or similar) Power Window Kit, Power Lock Kit, and/or Keyless remote?
How about ordering from ? Do they send detailed instructions with kits like these?
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I know all about a tight budget I can't afford to buy parts right now LOL. I'd start on the metal work for getting the body done, but if there's anything you want done inside do it now. I would clean, sand prime, paint, undercoat, whatever you are going to do inside before I laid down any carpet, padding, or sound deadening that ay it's done. Like stereo upgrades, wiring, guages, seats anything like that. I think I'd rather have the motor in before paint to avoid scratches and hand prints and such, but you can work around those with fender covers and such.
I usually try to get it running and driving first, then customize it. Alot of the times body work is right in with it because here to get one legal has to pass visual inspection, so no rust holes.
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I guess everyone's different, but the rust holes just drive me nuts, so I concentrated on getting a decent welder up and going first. Is there any reason you couldn't just start looking around for a welder? Trying to stop the rust from spreading without cutting it out and fixing it right seems to me to be a waste of time. Not only will you probably fail to keep it from spreading, you'll be spending valuable time on metal that really just needs cut out.
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Would love to cut it out right now, if I had a welder. Maybe I'll look into a decent welder and start there. Anyone have any setups they like for doing body/chassis work? Would like a 110 setup since I'm renting and dont want to put money into electric to accommodate a 220.
Now Swims350, I have ZERO experience with painting. So when you say sand prime, do you mean after I clean surface, prime it and sand it smooth, then put down like a por15 product before sound deadening?
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yea if you plan to paint the inside of the cab, you need to sand it first, then prime if you want, esp if there's any rust or bare metal, then sand it smooth if you want, and paint. You want to do it before any sound deadener, or you can chose to leave the areas alone, like what you don't see once carpet is in, just go straight to deadening
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Would much rather seal it up nice so I dont get any rust issues down the road. Would you prime it if your going to use a por15 product? Or just sand it and use the por15?
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If I was going to use por15 buddy I'd just sand it down and do it with por15, or maybe if you got the cash use their marine clean to clean it and then use their metal ready to "etch and make sure it's done right.
HOWEVER, I used it on my monte carlo floor and all I done was take a wire brush wheels on a grinder to all it and then vacuum the dust, and paint it with por15, it did peel in some spots were it was paint only but the rusty areas it held tight as can be and never came loose. I didn't have the cash for all their stuff but for you a quart would absolutely do your entire floor and some more. A quart did my MC floor pan from door to doo firewall to trunk,2 coats as rec. by por15. I had a little bit left. zerorust is basically the same stuff and may be cheaper, check raybuck auto or google search for it and compare. I also heard good things about miracle paint, stacey david from trucks and gearz now uses it alot and said it was good stuff.
Now if you don't get all the por15 prep stuff, you might sand it down with like 120 or 180 to get it scuffed pretty rough to get a good bite, which may work in place of the metal ready and might wipe it down afterwards with grease and wax remover, which might work in place of marine clean. If it was me and I didn't have the cash it's what I'd do.
You'd only need to prime if you were going to use regualr paint or something. You won't need a topcoat on the por15 either since sun never hits the floor areas with carpet down.
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Ok that sounds good man. I will start looking into that. Starting my new job at Firestone so my schedule will be much different, so we'll see when I can start the fun. Thanks for all your help, really appreciate it.
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Ok so I went by a Auto Body supplier and the lady recommended a SEM product wanted to see if you thought it would be good choice. It says to use 3 Medium coats for best results, and to add a hardener to more durability.
http://secure.terrys.net/viewProduct.php?productID=SEM.38094
She also recommended a cleaner/degreaser but I forgot name lol. It was like P 102 or something like that.
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sem makes alot of stuff and it's usually good quality or one of the best you can buy and usually most expensive but in this case it's cheap enough to try.
The grease and wax remover is probably just prepsol or whatever, same stuff, you use it before you spray the vehicle with paint, check with them though I buy some cheap grease/wax remover from them for about $7 a quart.
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Yeah I think this stuff was $9, I asked what she recommended and that was it. Will be looking into this weekend (after paycheck lol) so will shoot some picture of any progress.
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Well I just picked up some primer and chassis paint. I have a friends paint gun but not sure how to set it up and he's never used it so he doesn't either. Its a Professional Tools brand gravity feed HVLP 1.4mm nozzle spray gun. It has Spanner wrench which I can see what its for but it also has a tool thats label in the book as "Six corners of sleeve pipes inside". Not sure what it is or what used for but it looks like a 1/4" tube about 3" long, half is a hex and other half is round. Has six different size fins inside. What do I need to do before spraying, like how to I set up everything it start off right? If anyone can help would be greatly appreciated.
Here's more info on gun:
http://www.etsmotorsports.com/product/8-H-881+HVLP+Spray+Gun.html