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73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Engine/Drivetrain => Topic started by: misfit240 on July 29, 2010, 10:34:39 am
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ok guys im stuck i did a routine dist cap rotor and button change on my factory 305 now it wont start ive taken it apart several times to no avail can anyone help me???
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well is it all bolted down and plugged back in? There should be a plugin from the dist. to the cap and then an l shaped one and that plugs into the bat side and the big thick wire plugs into that one, if that's not hooked up it won't do anything, maybe crank I forget which.
In the cap under the coil did you put the spring, and little carbon thing or whatever that small thing is in the center you can see under the cap on the inside where the rotor would be? Also the coil wires inside there are they hooked up right?
I'm assumeing this is an hei in cap coil setup our 86 chevy was.
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Make sure your getting power to that one red wire on the cap make sure your wires are not broken that goes from the cap to the control module. If they check outmake sure the button under the coil goes on first then the rubber. If both those check out then you can get a bad cap or most the time rotor even if its new. Had the same problem about a month ago replaced everything no fire wire checks out good replaced coil it was good made sure the button and spring were in right it was all good put the old cap and rotor back on and it started right up
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yea its an hei and the 3 plugs are pluged in engine still wont start im not sure if i installed the button correctly but i did what the accel paper told me and im sure the coil wires are hooked up
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only way I see you installing the rotor button wrong is by turning it 180 if so then take it loose and turn it 180 degrees and see if it'll bolt back on if so then try it.
or as mentioned above put the old stuff on and check it.
There's always a chance the dist. can get moved and make it out of time but does it crank and not start or does it just do nothing at all?
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it cranks but will not turn over also there is a chance i might have mixed up plug wires ......erg im nut sure the order they go in a few popped off while i was switching caps and i had to guess where they went it was a 99% sure thing but theres still that chance anyone got a plug wire chart?
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18436572 looking at the motor from the front of the truck clockwise, 1 is uaully in the 4-5 o clock position supposed to be 5. Looks like in the pic no. 1 is between 5 and 6 o clock. doesn't matter much as long as the tower and rotor line up on tdc and timing advance is set right. The timing advance can throw it off, but that should get you close.
The cylinders on the drive side starting in front are 1,3,5,7
pass from front is 2,4,6,8
I had a chart but aint sure where it's at but no. 1 doesn't matter exactly as long as when the motor is on no.1 tdc the rotor points to that tower on the cap which can be any tower, as long as it points there and you follow the order.
here ya go found it on google.
http://www.hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Chevy_V8_Firing_Order.jpg
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You can't put the rotor on 180 there's a nipple on the side of the advance springs that won't allow it only if you completely removed the distributor. 3 plugs? Are you talking about the 3 wire pigtail or the 3 pigtail, hot wire and tach wire. Did you check if you got 12v to the red wire with the key on also swap the old back on. Check for fire on the wire if your red wire is hot put a plug or screwdriver in the spark plug wire and either ground the plug and have someone turn the key. Or if you use the driver turn the key and keep the driver about 1/4" from a good ground and see I it sparks
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If you are not getting spark, I would try another cap and rotor. I have seen quite a few bad brand new Auto Zone cap and rotors. A friend of mine went through 3 of them before he got one that would work.
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yes, main thing is to check to see if you got spark. pull a spark plug out and ground the tip on the metal of the engine somewhere, have someone crank her up. Check for spark.
If you are getting spark, must be timing or wires mixed up. NO spark equals nothing coming out of the distributor, make sure you have 12 volts w/ key on on the red hot wire going to the distirbutor. If so, it may be the module or coil, or pick up coil inside the distributor or cracked rotor/cap something.
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good info on the rotor wasn't sure if it was possible to put it on wrong but was thinking you could not.
I think what he means is as I said 3 plugins one is the dist. base wires that go to the cap behind the bat. and tach terminals, the computer controlled esc crap that plugs into the bat side first like an l shaped plugin and the big old pink/red wire plugs into that l shaped plugin.
Only the esc crap hei's had this the rest are just big pink/red right to the bat side and the dist. base wires to the cap and that's it. If you do this on one with esc it won't do squat you have to have the l shaped thing plugged in, unless you follow the bypass right up on this site as I did and bypass the junk.
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pull out all the plugs and crank the engine over by hand using a socket on the crank pulley. line up the mark on the pulley with the first notch on the timing tag. (not 100% if its the first mark on a 305 but it is for a 350). doing this will put everything back in time. look at the rotor, it should be pointing to the number 1 cylinder. put the plugs back in and the cap back on. number 1 plug wire goes on the terminal the rotor was pointing to. then follow the firing order going clockwise. 18436572. if you put everything on according to the instructions and said you might have mixed up some wires you probably just knocked off the timing. try what i just said and it should fire assuming everything else is working good.
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i guess i should mention to make sure when you crank it over by hand that number 1 is top dead center on compression stroke. you will be able to feel the compression with your finger. but if you line up the timing marks like i said before it should be number 1 tdc.
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The first thing to do is make sure he has power to the cap and cap and rotor are good he shouldn't have the timing that much off due to not removing the dis.
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yes he should do the easy steps first but im just saying to do that because i wired a tach into my 76 and i took the cap off to make it easier. i marked all the plug wires with a sharpie but since the wires are rubber and i had dirty hands, i never noticed that my marks wore off. i put them back the way i thought they shouldve went and then the truck wouldnt start. so i rolled it over by hand and re wired it and presto.
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Thanks for all the help everyone im still working on this but have not had time to update the situation so far i replaced the cap and rotor back to the old ones and still no spark at all im going to replace the coil next because this one looks a little beat up ....
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getting 12 volts at the battery (red) wire on distributor w/ key on? As i mentioned earlier, if you get voltage to the distributor (red wire), but not out of the distributor (no spark) could be pick up coil, ignition coil, or module.
if no power to the distributor with key on, perhaps ignition switch, or wiring.
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Also are you testing for a spark or seeing if she will start up?
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i need to test the voltage no voltmeter in my collection of tools....erg so ill have to get one also i checked for spark and there isnt one so i will check the wire wish me luck also is there a fuse for this wire?