73-87chevytrucks.com
73-87 Chevy _ GMC Trucks => Performance => Topic started by: txchainsawgogi on August 08, 2010, 06:59:47 pm
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Got the radiator situation all sorted out all thanks to y'all. Next on my list is upgrading my old, neglected distributor/rotor/plug wires.
If I want to run an msd ignition box, what combo should I use that's cheap and effective...that go together well?
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For example, what's the difference between the MSD "street fire" distributor model 8362 and the "pro billet" model 8365?
I can get one for 75+ shipping and the other I can't find under 250$
If the street fire model is compatible I might run it... anything is better than a 30 year old stock setup right?
1978 C10 5.7L 350ci
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I kept my hei on my 79 it normally doesn't go above 3k in less I'm in the mud then it barely touches 4. If your not racing it in the high Roma then I see no need for mad but that's just me
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So should I just replace the cap and rotor?
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Do you have an MSD ignition system?
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Its stock. So an msd distributor cap isn't compatible with stock? I want to upgrade everything but keep the costs down.
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SBC-BBC-CHEVY-CLEAR-CAP-65K-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-6500-CL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ330437648862QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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Haha a bit flashy...will that work out for me? Not too cheaply manufactured?
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Yes it will work and it may not be like msd but its all you need
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What should I get to go with it? It'll work with the stock hei?
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That eBay store has other cap colors. Black, red, blue, etc.
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What aboutttt. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/V8-Chevy-HP-Electronic-Ignition-Kit-SBC-BBC-350-454-/220582672904?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories#ht_5266wt_968
How are these systems compatible with the stock hei ? I'm a little confused
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It appears it gets rid of the HEI...so it wouldnt be compatible.
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if you want that procomp kit it will replace everything thats all you need but IMO thats more things that could fail then you will be stuck for a while waiting on parts to come in nut with the one vile posted they also replace your stock hei with aftermarket but if the aftermarket fails its the same as stock and you can get back on the road faster
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-SBC-BBC-CHEVY-CLEAR-CAP-65K-HEI-DISTRIBUTOR-6500-CL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ330437648862QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I bought that one.... It looks awesome. I took it apart some and everything looks really nice, it spins easily, etc... Havent tried it out yet though, its for when I get my new engine. So far though I'm happy with its appearance.
As far as an ignition controller, I'd just Get an MSD 6A. The distributor you use with it doesn't matter, as long as the components arent too worn out.
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So if I get the first ebay dist and an ignition box, It'll still use the hei and I won't need the seperate coil? I've never wired up an ignition box or any engine with an hei.
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It will be HEI. The Distributor is HEI, and the MSD 6A box will work with HEI, as well as any other kind of distributor. The main pain to swapping to hei is you can't use the old power wire to the points dist. There's a ballast resistor inline to the old dist, and you have to get rid of it or bypass it to use HEI. Otherwise, the MSD box comes with good instructions, it's not too difficult. If you're not sure how the dist. should look, go wander around a junkyard and get a look at some HEI cars to see how it's supposed to look.
Good luck!
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As far as the HEI is concerned, the MSD 6A box simply replaces the module unit inside the distributor. The coil-in-cap will remain. You could still convert it to an external coil if you wanted, but I don't see any advantage in doing so.
Page 16 shows the MSD 6AL wiring for an HEI distributor: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/msd-6420_frm28645.pdf
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Ok ok I get it. I didn't realize you'd be taking out the ignition module and hooking up the ignition box in its place. I thought they worked together somehow. I think I've got it down...might need some help with the wiring but that seems pretty straight forward too.
Will the timing need to be adjusted when swapping out the stock dist?
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Don't use an HEI with an MSD ignition module. If you're going to run an MSD ignition, run the ditributor,cap & rotor, wires coil and module. If you use a stock HEI with MSD 6A you're wasting your time.
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I was thinking about the clear distributor and a non-msd ignition box.
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Don't use an HEI with an MSD ignition module. If you're going to run an MSD ignition, run the ditributor,cap & rotor, wires coil and module. If you use a stock HEI with MSD 6A you're wasting your time.
Why not just use a stock HEI + MSD cap, rotor, coil, and 6AL? Or the performance KMJ unit you posted earlier + 6AL box? (this is what I think txchainsawgogi is planning) My understanding is that the 6AL replaces the module.
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Or the performance KMJ unit you posted earlier + 6AL box? (this is what I think txchainsawgogi is planning) My understanding is that the 6AL replaces the module.
That's what I want to do, get that clear dist. and run an ignition box...if I can do that with the stock hei.
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Speaking from experience, I have run MSD 6a and 6al modules with tuned GM Hei's. While it made a difference the results aren't nearly as good as running a complete system. If you're going to run that distributor, I would just run it but if you want to really upgrade your ignition system go with a complete system and can the HEI.
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Is that dist, coil, ignition kit off ebay I posted what I would need to replace the hei? Its not what I want in the long run but for now I might go with it.
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Unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, it looks like the most cost-effective solution for you would be to just go with a replacement HEI like the one Vile suggested. An upgraded HEI is about the best bang-for-the-buck ignition system out there and is a very capable performer for any street engine.
If that other system is "not what you want in the long run" don't waste your money.
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Rad ill go with that clear dist. Anything I else I should have with it other than new wires and boots?
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Well, spark plugs, of course. And make sure you go with a quality set of plug wires. I use Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires and, while they're not cheap, I think they are very good wires. Maybe another member can direct you to cheaper set of wires that are also of good quality.
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So I got that clear dist. in the mail finally, and I plan on swapping it ou friday/Saturday. I've never done anything to a distributor short of chaning wires!
Any help would be appreciated.
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Disconnect the battery.
When you remove the old distributor from the engine, make sure you remember where the rotor is pointing before pulling it out, as well as the distributor housing. A good way to do it is to turn the engine over by hand until the rotor is pointing at the #1 cyl (front driver side). You can use something straight to line up the rotor and make a mark on the firewall with a piece of tape also.
When you remove and replace the distributor, it wont drop right into place, the shaft inside turns a little, so compensate for it when you put it back in. I forgot which direction it turns, but remember which way when you pull the old one out. If it doesnt drop in easy, dont force it. The distributor turns the oil pump shaft as well.
Make sure you know plug wire placement on the cap as well.
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How do I actually remove it? Also...how do I manually crank the engine to line up the dist?
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you just need to install the new just as the old comes out. so just make sure your new dist and rotor point in the same direction as the old before it came out. so draw a picture or make marks whatever helps you get it in the same way. also make sure you number your wires before you pull them. to remove the dist; unbolt the clamp at the base on the intake manifold and pull.
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After you document wire placement, remove the cap. Mark the placement of the rotor as discussed. Where the distributor and intake manifold meet, there is a bracket, remove it. Remember where the distributor housing is pointing as well because it will be easier to time the new one. Then the distributor lifts out, remember that the shaft will turn.
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And after I put the new one in, will it need to be timed?
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If you follow his directions then you will be close. But if you want the best powerout of it then yes.
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Wow I figured my plugwires would be in bad shape but RAT BITES?
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nom nom nom....
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Got everything hooked up and it runs and starts much better. I'm sure if I take a timing light to it it'll be perfect. Next is carb work!
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Tell me about your distributor. I see where you got it from, is the quality good or does it look like a pos? Did it come with everything (rotor, coil, etc)? Im thinking of getting a new dizzy, and that is a good price.
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It seems ok, well built but a lot lighter than stock. Only time will tell if it holds up but as it is...definitely an improvement over 30 year old abused and worn out factory stuff.
It came with everything you need.